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Driftwood Quantum X Settings, Series 4: Cluster v2, Mysteron, Sedna, Orion...etc...
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  • luxisluxis

    @Siddho well, our eyes is the ultimate scientific test ; ) just mbps graphs and such, means nothing if you are not happy with what you see.

    will give this GOLGOP3 a try. thanks for pointing it out.

  • SiddhoSiddho

    @luxis sorry, i should have said "no visible banding whatsoever".

    this was a special case and also this was not a scientific test. we just used our eyes ;). i am sure a more detailed and time consuming test would have shown more. we just tested under the conditions we have to shoot and fortunately got a result.

    again, i dont think any of this will apply to real life shooting situations, or very rarely.

    the shoot is next week (it supplements a photo shoot). i think we will go with GOLGOP3 with SednaAQ1C matrix. the products we are shooting are new and we have to shoot each item in the identical setup and handover the footage to the customer who will use them as they will see fit. i doubt if i can get permission to upload some examples but i will try.

    thanks again for all the help.

  • bmcent1bmcent1

    Is there a table or short description anywhere of what the various settings are optimized for? It's nice to have so much variety but I haven't figured out when you would want Orion over Mysteron or Sedna over Pictoris, etc.

  • jrdjrd

    Anyone else finding that [stock, unhacked] audio can drop in and out on some clips, shot with Sedna? Unfortunately, no access to an editing system at the moment, so I don't know whether it's a playback issue only, or if the files are corrupted.

  • luxisluxis

    @Siddho thanks for this info. "no banding whatsoever" - magic? ;) what did you end up using at the end and is it possible to see the final result of your footage ?

  • dbpdbp

    @Siddho Interesting and helpful info. Thanks very much!

  • SiddhoSiddho

    @thepalalias it was vers 2.

    @dbp we shot so much, always the identical setup and lighting. as we came to a definate conclusion i didnt plan on saving the tests, so they are gone. sorry. i should have known better when testing, but in the heat of the moment i just deleted anything sub-par. the final test was between Quantum Sedna AQ1 and GOLGOP3-Sedna AQ1. Sedna had the edge but we decided for GOLGOP3 because of the lower data rate.

    i should add that with all the higher bitrate patches all the problems were really only visible with high contrast gradiations in red or between red and white edges. all of them apart form the GOLGOP3 and GOP3Zilla patches with Sedna AQ1 Matrix which showed no problems here at all.

    the worst by far were Pictoriß. very visible edge steps and gitter like banding between dark and medium red.

    the lower bitrate patches tested all had serious problems with white lettering on a bright shiny red background. blocky jpeg like artefacts. Flowmotion 1.1 or Natural for example were two of those.

    yet again this was a special test because of the number of brightly coloured objects we have to shoot. i doubt these things would be an issue in normal day to day shooting.

  • dbpdbp

    @Siddho Interesting findings. Do you have any stills you could post?

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    @Siddho SpanMyBU V1 or V2? Interesting to hear the results of your testing.

  • SiddhoSiddho

    just to report on my findings:

    we have a shoot planned for lots of brightly coloured design objects on a rotating plate under controlled lighting.

    for this i tested the following: Pictoriß in all its flavours, Sedna AQ1, Dark Matter, SpanMyBitchUp, Flowmotion, GOLGOP13-Sedna and GOP3ZILLA-Sedna, all in their latest versions as of yesterday (17.04.12).

    all at 24H; ASA160; Nikon AIS 35mm, 28mm and 50mm all at f2.0; Shutter at 50; Smooth -2,-2,0,-2.

    Pictoriß and SpanMyBitchUp all showed steplike artefacts on high contrast transtions between the colours white and red, and especially between dark red and bright red. Pictoriß especially had problems with any red also showing tiny grid like blocking in graduated transitions in red.

    Sedna was the best but of course with very high bitrate.

    The surprise winner under such a setup was for us GOLGOP3 and GOP3ZILLA with the Sedna AQ1C matrix. They both showed almost no banding whatsoever and no problems at all with high contrast transitions between red and white. Average data rate was also around 11mb per second so we save on disk space too.

    Thanks to everyone concerned in creating and developing such great settings.

  • itscehrisitscehris

  • Zaven13Zaven13

    @bheath. Thanks for the vote of confidence. Glad it's working for you. I will gladly post the settings on the central patch repository area.

  • artiswarartiswar

    Wedding trailer shot on Quantum Xv2! Thanks @driftwood !

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    @jvalal I'll be happy to answer your questions but we should move the discussion here http://personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/55285#Comment_55285 since it isn't specific to Driftwood settings.

  • jvalaljvalal

    I was in (M) non movie. That was one of the questions I had way in the beginning. I have no idea what the hack settings apply to. Is it just Movie(Icon(M)) or does it apply to all settings if I hit the Red video camera icon button on the top? So is it safe to assume that all hacks just apply to that Movie(Icon(M)) setting? And if I use any other setting that it's just the stock settings, or whatever I set?

    I notice that when I move to Movie(Icon(M)) setting it moves to crop mode, is that standard behavior?
    This dialogue is helpful.

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    @jvalal Are you in "M" or the "Movie M", which has a camera icon next to it? You want to make sure you are in Movie M. If you are, then the only reason that "Auto" would show up is if you are using an older version of PTool.

    So if you are in Cinema M and get that error, try downloading the newest PTool at https://www.personal-view.com/faqs/gh2-hack/ptool-software and make sure you use Firmware version 1.1 not 1.0 from Panasonic. Be aware that the only way to tell if you are running the newest version of the software is to open it - it is not indicated in the filename or on the page. It should say "PTool 3.65D (280312)" at the top.

    Once you have done that, save Sedna to a new .BIN file, load it and see if you still get that "Auto" error.

  • luxisluxis

    @jvalal of course it comes to mind first:)but it is not. if you want to double check u can try using the card with the original firmware...and the issues remain...bad mac ,bad san disk! read around forums and mac help places...its sad :(

  • jvalaljvalal

    @luxis thanks for the added color. Definitely helps in trying to identify issues. I automatically want to default my thinking to patch issues.

  • luxisluxis

    @jvalal you are one of the lucky ones if it does read it sometimes. mac and the latest san disks(95mb) don't go well together...mine doesn't see it 95% of the time...i need to use a retarded external usb sd card reader. but it does work on another mac with one step earlier os x system which is a mystery.sorry to bring that to you, but yes the best sd cards and the powerful(???) macs with its pitty and bugged sd card reader are just not a good combination. and to make things clear it has noting to do with the camera or the patches.

  • jvalaljvalal

    @thepalalias

    Manual Mode (M) Auto ISO Indoor Light 1/50 4.0

    Sedna A AQ1 A (NTSC) - 64GB SanDisk 95MB/s

    HBR: > 8Minutes of recording

    I set it to 1600 ISO, but when I hit record it automatically changed it to AUTO?

    Still interesting is that my Mac SD card reader doesn't always recognize the card when I insert it.

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    @terry2 He may show up, but remember from his last two posts that he did not plan on being on much until the end of April when his current busy schedule gets a little less crazy. :)

  • terry2terry2

    @driftwood Nick, where are you? The Topic is missing his master...

  • thepalaliasthepalalias

    @jvalal Unless you have an unusually fast card reader (USB 3.0 etc.) then that isn't going to help. A lot of card readers (whether built into the system or external) cannot keep up with cards. On the laptop I am typing on, the average copy rate displayed in explorer for even fast cards is only 17 or 18 MB/s (and that is with ones I bought from authorized SanDisk and Delkin stores in person).

    What you want to do is exactly what I outlined before. Match the settings for one of the tests I did and compare how long you can record. That is why outlined every parameter (including the manual focus lens) to make it easier for you to duplicate it if you wanted to.

    If you are using a SanDisk 64GB 95 MB/s, shooting smooth -2, -2, -2, -2 and are shooting at ISOs of 1600 or lower with a manual focus lens but cannot get close to the record times I showed with Mysteron (not burst), then it seems possible that your card is defective. But the results from the tool you used do not prove anything one way or the other unless you have previously proved that your card reader can greatly exceed those rates.

  • bheathbheath

    Hi, I've had good fortune with Zaven's modification/combination of Sanity and Sendna called: Sanity4-Sedna A Q20 hybrid.zip (look on page 7 of this thread) Zaven, it might be a good idea to post these valuable settings on "all the settings and patches in one place page". I really like it both the 1080p and 720p. Thanks again to all the contributors here.

  • jvalaljvalal

    @thepalalias @sanzadez found a program to help diagnose write/read speeds. Doesn't look good, but I also don't know how reliable this tool is. Mac's seem to be light on the benchmarking apps. I did look at the results,but didn't have a chance to share my settings. Looks like it may be a card issue.

    VIdeo >> http://screencast.com/t/BAmjIIL7Icnp

    Also, card is supposedly from 17th Street Photo http://www.17photo.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=SDSDXPA064GA75

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