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GH2 Flow Motion v2 - 100Mbps Fast Action Performance & Reliability for Class 10 SD cards
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  • @prl ,That was tight. Ready for primetime!

  • @LPowell "@johnnygh2 I haven't tested Cluster v6 so I can't comment on its motion picture quality. On a technical level, it's a long-GOP patch that uses conservative peak bitrates and coarser quantization tables on its P and B-frames than on its I-frames. This should make it a good choice for users who want a patch that improves on the unhacked firmware without producing large video files.

    Flow Motion v2 is a short-GOP patch that uses moderately high bitrates to virtually eliminate macroblock artifacts in the most demanding fast-action shooting conditions. It uses custom quantization tables designed to produce B and P-frames of the same quality as its I-frames. This makes it a good choice for users who want a patch that delivers motion picture quality comparable to all-Intra 24p patches at about half the file size, and without compromising the quality of HBR modes.

    For more details on Flow Motion v2 features, see the first post in this thread."

    I have tested yr patch and various Cluster patches under similar conditions, and I must say while your patch yields a higher bit rate, Cluster tends to be a little sharper when you select "All to details" for the AQ. In any case, sharpness is quite a matter of perception, it's not qualitative in that there isn't a standard way of gauging it I suppose. Would resolution be a more accurate way of describing sharpness?

    Regardless, Flowmotion v2.2 is a GREAT patch and I am using it now for some of my projects (giving Driftwood a break)

    On a separate but related note, I understand that there is a lot of artificial sharpening done internally in a Panasonic AF lens as a way of compensating for the deviation caused by mirrorless imaging. I think the m4/3 sensor is not flat, so the curvature actually distorts the image, hence a lot of times, the final recorded output using average MF glass may not be as sharp. I think Driftwood has tried to address this in his hacks, in particular the Cluster patches (you see the sharpness after you click "All to Details").

    Wonder if you have also considered such issues in your work.

  • @kazuo I agree with what you said. I found a while back that there is no perfect setting for everything. I use Driftwood's settings, Lee's, Ralph's and a few others. I'm not smart enough to make them, I just pick the one that suits what I'm doing best. It's a shame that it gets into pissing matches sometime because there really is a lot of genius at work on this site.

    What I've found with Flow Motion V2.2 is that it handles motion and adverse light conditions, better than anything else, especially in 720 which even Nick admits, is difficult.

    The other factor is the talent of the camera operator and his ability in post. Since I'm a long way from being great at either, I just accept the limitations of the settings and try to make the best of their virtues.

  • @strancali @Cinexa Thanks very much, Great Patch

  • For a long time, alot of work was directed towards NTSC which is understandable since many of the developers come from those parts of the world. i live in PAL land, so I'm eternally grateful to people like @LPowell who have devoted his time to helping HBR users, and also Driftwood, for looking at long GOP and including HBR in his fold.

    Like @peternap, i 'm not technically inclined the way Vitaliy, Driftwood, Lee and the rest of the guys here are, but when I do augment my creativity as a result of using their creations, i will always try to give credit where it's due :-)

    Thanks @peternap for sharing. i do see what you've said about Flow being better in terms of motion and adverse lighting conditions and i agree with you. Especially with regard to the darker areas in an image, i've compared quite a few patches, Flow is less noisy. Try shooting on an 85mm lens of any structural landscape (buildings will be ideal). Then notice spots like pillars and walls especially those that are shaded or partially hidden. Flow does quite well in rendering details in these instances. And i daresay there could be less banding

  • @prl , excellent/ great idea too.

  • @kazuo - "I understand that there is a lot of artificial sharpening done internally in a Panasonic AF lens as a way of compensating for the deviation caused by mirrorless imaging. I think the m4/3 sensor is not flat, so the curvature actually distorts the image, hence a lot of times, the final recorded output using average MF glass may not be as sharp."

    I think you may be thinking of the geometric distortion correction the GH2 does with Lumix Micro 4/3 lenses. In any case, the image sensor is completely flat and needs no correction. In cases where the GH2 corrects distortion in a Lumix lens, it applies a sharpening filter as well. Unfortunately, that can overemphasize alias artifacts on high-contrast edges, creating an artificially enhanced impression of sharpness.

    Flow Motion v2 is designed to minimize the effects of artificial sharpening in the chroma channels, which could account for the difference in sharpness you noticed between FM2 and Cluster. If you experiment with the GH2's Sharpness setting, you might find that with Flow Motion v2, you prefer Sharpness at -1 rather than -2.

  • I decided to take the AC160 and 2 GH2's (One with FM 2,2 and the other with Drewnet) out to see if there would be a sunset. It stormed most of the afternoon and I didn't even see the sun. Just before dark, I broke the Drewnet camera and the 160, down and hauled them the quarter mile to the car.

    As soon as I got back the clouds broke a little and the sunset was beautiful. Here is a grab using FM 2.2 and a Samyang 7.5

    I ran it through the Action in photoshop.

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  • @peternap Did you get the whole sunset or just the tail end? I'd be interested to examine the footage for its lowlight quality.

  • I got the whole thing Lee....I guess 45 minutes. I have a lot of noise in that grab that isn't in the video. I need to figure that out.

  • @LPowell As soon as I get somewhere I have a good connection, I'll upload the file. Where would you like me to put it? Here is a frame from earlier and from the very end of the video:

    before sunset.png
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    sunset end.png
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  • @peternap 45 minutes is a long take, which video mode did you use? If possible, could you load the SD card back into the GH2 and use the Playback menu to divide it into segments? That would preserve the original AVCHD encoding within a series of shorter MTS files. I'd be most interested in the initial minute of footage, and in the section that shows the sun dipping below the horizon and its immediate aftermath.

  • The card's been formatted but I always copy it on to the hard drive. I'll just copy it back and then break it up for you. I didn't know I could break them up smaller than 4 gig,

    It was recorded in 1080p-24

  • Hello, could please anyone help me? I just updated my camera with FM v.2.01. The whole process went as it was supposed to. Then I formatted my SDHC card and recorded roughly 8 minutes of 24H footage. But the resulting file is quite small: 1.35gb. Then I checked the bitrate while playing the file and saw that it's only 22Mbit/s. Am I doing something wrong? I thought the bit rate was supposed to be much higher? Which step did I mess up? Thanks a lot.

    Screen Shot 2012-08-21 at 11.49.21 PM.png
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  • UPDATE: I also tried installing DRIFTWOOD patch Cluster V6 Nebula and the bit rate seems even lower... Again, I had no problems with the installation itself... I have a shoot coming up this Friday and was hoping to use one of the patches. Please help. Thanks

    Screen Shot 2012-08-22 at 12.30.28 AM.png
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  • @mastroiani You're off by a digit. Try downloading Flow Motion v2.02 from the first post in this thread. That's the most current version.

    The only thing you're doing wrong is focusing on bitrate rather than motion picture quality. Leave the bitrate to the patch, the rest is up to you.

  • Thanks! Will do :))) I actually mistyped - I did install V.2.02. In creative movie mode I can see that there are no ISO restrictions, so I presume that means the camera is hacked. Thank you very much for all your work!

  • My GH2 is dead!!! Left it on the rack after a shoot,then when it was time to turn it on again, the green light wouldn't come on. Tried it with all the batteries I had but the thing remains lifeless.

    Before I send it off for resurrection, I have some questions. Was my camera hacked to death? Not insinuating anything here, but Flowmotion was the unfortunate patch last left on my cam.
    @LPowell, pls comment, cheers

    Also, anyone else can advise here, do third party bats screw up the internal circuit of the camera? Lately whenever i swapped china bats to original bats, I got the dreaded message "this battery cannot be used". I had to take out the original bat, and then put it back into the catch before the camera started behaving again. I spoke with a friend who is a Canon 5D user, and he told me he experienced similar incidents with third party bats. Anyone cares to comment? Cheers

  • @kazuo Sorry to hear of your bad fortune. I've hacked my GH2 thousands of times with countless versions of Flow Motion and never had a problem. With my GH1, however, I did have a malfunction once after leaving it baking in the sun for an hour. It made a full recovery after cooling off, and here's hoping yours does too.

  • @kazuo sorry to hear your troubles, but i believe patches have nothing to do with similar situations. It sounds more like a battery one. my understanding is that bad, poorly made with wrong parameters third party batteries can be a real issue-wrong power supply to a sensitive circuit. I did have this message before a few times. On and off cleared it. Yet I try to stay away from them whenever possible, I got a second original one and this covers quite a bit of time of shooting. Hope you get it sorted out and back to live.

  • @kazuo It could be any number of problem. I highly doubt the hack had anything to do with it, as it seems from what your saying. It was running fine, you had just turned it off and left it sitting for a few days. Also, i assume you where using 3rd party batteries? Maybe, your internal battery connection is getting bad... since your getting that message. There is a slight possibility that there is corrosion on the battery leads inside the camera (its possible you can scrap and clean that off the leads). If your using 3rd party batts, maybe one went bad inside your camera... I've gotten that error message every now and then with my 3rd party batteries, but thats usually because they are needing recharging, or they are going bad. But not a result of the camera or hack.

  • this is no doubt going to sound dumb. but how can i make sure the hack is working? loaded the new firmware on etc, how can i check the data rates of my MTS files?

  • @luxis I too am sorry to hear about the camera. I have two GH2's and load settings daily. FM2.2 is almost always in one camera or the other so I really doubt it was caused by the hack.

    I use aftermarket batteries (Wasabi) in all my cameras and have for years. None have ever killed a camera, but as already mentioned, it could be a bad terminal, etc.

    Sometimes cameras just malfunction. They always have. I still have two Canon F-1's that I used early on. They are probably the toughest cameras ever made but I had two of them because eventually, one would need servicing. My philosophy has always been "If it ain't will be" ...usually at the worst possible time.

    The good news is from what you describe, it's probably an easy fix. The bad news is that I can't think of a single good thing to say about Panasonic consumer repair.

  • I used third party batteries made of China with the original one since I 'be bought gh2. I also use third party electric adapter sold cheap like $20 if I could remember and never had any problems neither showing warning messages.

    It is faulty said the Flow Motion was in camera before it death as a cause . It is not a reasonable cause by using made in China batteries. what other made batteries should we use for a made in china camera any way? Please people; take a look of your bottom camera and see what it made from?

    As I could say is don't buy made in China if you expect it good and last forever :-)

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