Hi guys i have black magic pocket and set of yashica ml lenses Metabone is to expensive for me and i heard about RJ Lens Turbo Booster do they make it for yashica ml lenses i believe its its C/Y mount and where can i buy one cant find it any where and is ti as good as metabone

Thanks guys

Thanks, will do!

The play was my bad, no play anymore. I still don't understand why I have to lock the lever/pin on the lens, then attach to the adapter and then switch to lock on the adapter. I haven't read any comments or experiences about that here. And the FD Kenlock lens is even stranger: I have to keep the switch to open in order to work, but it only works from wide open (2.8) untill 5.6 max.
If this is not the proper place for this question I will delete it.

@vitaliy_Kiselev do you mean search this topic or am I missing a link?

Hi everyone,

Recieved my RJ adapter (FD) within two weeks (I live in the Netherlands). It looks very good, and now I'm doing some testing. It doesn't fit too tight, there is al little play, I will have to look up how I can fix that. I couldn't get the aperture to work, it was stuck wide open. Untill I found out that I have to push the lever for the aperture on the back of the lens al the way untill it "stuck". Then screw it in the adapter and then set the adapter to lock. Is this a normal procedure for this adapter? It works with my Canon FD lenses but I also have a Kenlock lens and with this lens the lever can not be locked. I don't have another normal FD to m43 adapter so I can't compare the shots, but so far the images look very nice. Okay, my experience so far :) Tips are always welcome.

What is the lens you used? As thing called blue dot is actually happening due to reflections and is dependent on the lens used.

It was a Nikon 35mm AI at the time.

After shooting with this adapter in bright conditions where I was stopping down to f/8-f/11, the blue dot is so bad that the footage is almost unusable. I suppose I could make a LUT or powergrade that color corrected the dot region and apply it to the entire timeline....

Hi, same problem as Bernie. The tensioner ring is broke. Although I have shaved the rear aperture lever. I removed the tensioner ring. Is it essential?

So Maximizer, FD to RJ EOS worked fine for you? no wobble?

@texpic wrote me some questions regarding the RJ after I have it for almost a year now (I participated in this thread earlier, around March '14). Anyways, he thought it might be beneficial for all so I'll just copy my answer to him:

Regarding the blue flare. I now was able to get it into the image, but that was only when I stopped down a lot, I think we were at f/8 or f/11. That's something I knew before, but at that day I simply forgot the NDs at home (as it wasn't an important shoot I didn't really care too much). Usually I wouldn't go to f/11 or so anyway, as I'd rather use a Lens without a Turbo in that case (if I want to stop down really hard there's no reason for an additional stop of light). Anyway, I "recently" bought a cheaper competitor from eBay, 70€ or so, and then I understood why people have a big deal with the blue dot: it happened a lot. Here's an example I uploaded some time ago, RJ vs the other one: https://www.dropbox.com/s/19xdf08ilbxiycp/rj-lengril-comparison.jpg?dl=0 That was wide-open, not stopped down a lot, on a Tokina 11-16mm (no idea which focal length)

Putting a Nikon->EF Adapter on top of the EF Turbo was something I tried, but in the end it's not really a beneficial combo. Maybe my NIK-EF Adapter is bad, but it simply intoduces a lot of wobble. This is, at best, only a temporary fix. That's actually the reason I bought the cheap adapter I told you about, because I wanted a native Nikon one (but save a bit of cash at that end). What I noticed it, it isn't worth to buy a cheaper Turbo (and the difference is only 30€ or so), and it seems that it isn't worth to get only one Turbo if you need Nikon+Canon. OM, Pentax, M42 - those adapters fit fine on the EF Turbo, and that works out. Simply because the adapters are generally a bit better and thicker. But the thin Nikon Adapters aren't that good for this. I know that the additional cost of a 2nd Turbo can be a problem for some, but in the end you are still cheaper with two Turbos in comparison to one Speedbooster... :)

Hope it helps out one or another

@aldolega

This is to put a MFT lens on an Emount camera with an adapter.

I don't own anything in E mount, but, bought on Amazon an E mount (cam mount) to MFT (lens mount) adapter. I recall that emount is a shorter FFD than MFT mount. The FAQ supports this: http://www.personal-view.com/faqs/camera-usage/lenses-mounts-faq

I bought one made by Fotodiox on Amazon. It looks like this generic one: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Micro-Olympus-Sony-Adapter/dp/B00DSGLZWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421280554&sr=8-1&keywords=MFT+m4%2F3+lens+to+Sony+NEX+adapter

Be aware that many adapters are made to guarantee infinity focus and therefore are made too short (so infinity is at say 10' on the lens scale). Stacking adapters, especially behind a speedbooster may yield focus issues.

@aldolega well that makes sense. I had no idea. Thank you!

Hi everyone, I'm looking to get a focal reducer and I had a question. I'm sorry if this has been addressed before in this thread.

So I'm planning on purchasing a sony a7s to complement my gh4. I'm trying to plan my budget and I'd like to get a focal reducer. I was wondering if I should/would be able to get a single focal reducer (say an FD to Sony E) and then get a cheap Sony E to M4/3 adapter to use it on my gh4. Would the focal reducer still be as effective as an FD to m4/3 in this case?

Or should I just get an exclusive focal reducer for each mount? Thanks!