I've contacted Wondlan and shown them the videos. Waiting on a response but it should be a simple fix.

The reason why: the small part on the left of the shot is like a brake for the top plate. When tightened it clamps the plate into position. The threads on mine are knackered and the screw is able to slip right through it. Any suggestions on how to fix? I think I will get wondlan to send me new part hopefully as it is very small and easy to replace.

Will make video tonight

If anyone knows how to fix the sled screw turning endlessly that would help me cause I'm in a pickle mid shoot right now!!? It doesn't tighten now and the top sled is loose.

I hope you're not talking about the videos @janis posted because those are what sold me!

Having now worked with both these handheld stabilizers i thought i would take the opportunity to give a fairly brief summary of the two and how they compare. Both these stabilizers have been used with both the GH2 + GH3 with a variety of lenses plus light when required.

FLYCAM NANO - £85

Initial setup for the Nano took around 3-4 hours, and was not a plesant experience. This would have been exaggerated by my lack of experience at the time with stabilisers but i had researched the concept and watched numerous videos on how to tune one and yet i was amazed at how difficult it was. Having spent nearly 6 months with the Nano, i found myself never truly able to get a perfectly tuned setup. It would work sometimes and then it would be placed on a table ready for the next shot and when picked up again it was out of balance. This would take some 2-3 minutes to sort out and sometimes I missed vital shots and had to abandon and go for the monopod. I must admit that laterally i ended up resorting to a rather crude method of balancing it, due to frustration, and this consisted of banging it until it was back in balance. I realise that this method ultimately knackered the whole unit but i was initially very patient with it.

• PROS - Lightweight & Cheap
• CONS - Difficult to adjust, not well built, weights at the bottom over complicate things (combined with little movement in the main shaft available)

WONDLAN MINI STABILIZER - £205

Of course, this lead to me purchasing a new stabiliser which after reading a lot of good things about Wondlan led me to purchase their Mini Stabiliser for just over £200. Being cheaper than the carbon model and smaller i thought this would be ideal for the GH3 + 12-35 lens. I am not joking when I say this, but from open box to flying... less than 5 minutes. I was amazed at how easily the unit could be adjusted and yet how stiff everything felt on it. I can literally run as fast as I can with this thing, place it down, pick it up and nothing changes. I have combined it with a Calumnet quick mount adaptor (manfrotto copy) and this works a treat at allowing me to jump from monopod to stabilizer and at the very most I have to do about 10-15 seconds of tweaks to get it perfect. The knobs at the side allow micro millimeter precision and with the scale at the side does not lead to subjective changes. What a fantastic bit of kit and it has re-ignited my enthusiasm for stabiliser shots once again!

• PROS - Super easy to adjust, well made, looks fantastic (more professional IMO), massive amount of adjustment in both gimbal, shaft height and plate
• CONS - Twice the price, bag is not padded (i'm scraping the barrel here)

I hope this helps with someone looking to take the leap into the world of stabilizers and not sure where to start.

I'd like to get some tips that how to balance this optimally. These are some of my assumptions, correct me if I'm wrong:

1. The higher the handle is in the rod, the better
2. The heavier the camera is, the better
3. Point 2 leads to that counterbalance at bottom needs to be reasonable heavy?

If my assumptions 2 and 3 are true, do you have idea how to mount weight on the camera itself?

Which model would work best with GH2, 20mm lens and LED light on top? Approx weight equals 1.1kg.

I like the size of the MINI stabliser but wonder if by buying the carbon version i could fly all cameras that I have from it.

Any hands on experience with the Carbon or Mini stabiliser would be greatly appreciated.

@parkgt I'm not sure, but I think that "Flip vertical" + "Flip Horizontal" allows for faster render than "Rotate 180" on Adobe Premiere.

@SuperSet I mounted camera directly to plate. But I'm looking for good and cheep quick release plate like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Release-Assembly-And-Sliding-Plate-Mount-Work-for-Camera-/330723712849 (the price is wrong here) so that I could switch from tripod to stabiliser without loosing balance. It helps to balance it on some mic or light stand. I have this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/2000mm-Lighting-Professional-Photography-Photographic/dp/B004LDURVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342723892&sr=8-1 . But it's doable holding in hand also, just do it in little increments.

@SuperSet there actually is no setup to look at :). Only thing that I used for this differently was using weights (only the small ones). For "camera up ballast down" mode the weights are usually not needed. For "camera down ballast up" mode it depends on how low You want the camera side to be. The lower/higher You want one side to be, the more contra weight You have to put or You will get pendulum. While stabilising first thing I do is find the centre of gravity. Then adjust handle so that the lower side is a bit heavier. And only then I start to stabilise front/back and left/right positions. @hedrox the music was a lucky find :)

@janis Great job with the Wondlan! Can you post a pic of your setup so I can compare and see if I'm getting the best setup properly?