Little question of which I'm sure it had been asked before. Just can't seem to find the right words to find anything via search.

Am I able to shoot 720p60 instead of 720p50 with my hacked PAL GH2? And if yes, how do I do it? The PAL<>NTSC switch which comes with all hacks is turned on by standard, isn't it? Those 10 extra frames really make a difference.

Thanks guys.

Hi guys this seems like a ridiculous question just can't seem to find an answer, Are all GH1's hackable? Or is there a specific firmware that needs to be avoided? you help would be really appreciated.

@ghostlayer, My camera is NTSC and I have this HBR mode too. I tried it out and looked the clip in StreamParser and found that it was also 1080i. The HBR mode in NTSC camera is about 24mbps and 17/13mbps for FSH/FH modes if unhacked. But when the camera is hacked, the FSH/FH modes are about the same as HBR mode, I think. But I am still not sure though that HBR is 1080i. I thought I read it somewhere that the HBR mode for NTSC cameras is actually 1080p at 30fps. I just hope someone knowledgeable can chime in to clarify.

Thanks.

Read the FAQs. All is explained. The link is at the top of this page.

If I am using driftwood's latest Quantum patch, what setting does the camera need to be in to ensure I'm utilizing it for 1080 24p? I had it set to "HBR mode" (it does not let you choose a frame rate in this mode) and apparently it was shooting at 29.97.

@Flacnvinyl I belive you found settins for you in cbrandin an my settings around 44M and 35M for 25p. You actually coud try to go to 66/44/34 to get 25p a bit higher, or use towis settings. I also recommend you to look into topic http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/1152/gh2-audio-hacks/p1 . I am using:

266> 14 AGC 3

10> 36 AGC 2

22> 203 AGC 1

34> 235 AGC 0

You can combine that with raising bitrate and I think you will gett lower noise.

@Driftwood Cluster v1 didn't work on two cheap class 10 patriot cards. They are my crappiest cards though.

Driftwood's latest settings have an AQ1 and a Q20 version. What does this mean? Thank you!

@ChrisPeters A lot of the queries about quality stem from the fact that a lot of people are used to AQ3 or AQ4 (Auto Quantiser 4) which promotes high bitrate and suggestive better Quantisation. Indeed, this is a great feature and works by trying out Q on the fly. But its not the 'Be all and End all'. I believe its NOT perfect. Whole lines of macroblocks in the picture can be 'misinterpreted' next to a correctly quantised raster line. Then on another occasion filming the same subject - its fine and other artefacts happen elsewhere. Its very hard to predict whats going to happen!

However, tuned matrices like Sedna can help and are designed in such a way to handle frequencies and offer closer matching quality overall for a 'desired' setting. We're trying to wrestle a bit of control back here!

Where in the past you might get razor sharpeness in one area, you could actually get a very blurry Q 'decision' in other areas of the picture. Some matrices work well with AQ4 because the matrix design is employs average use of low pass filtering compared to some of the newer higher settings shown in Sedna. Things can go wrong when you're pushing it with AQ on top of your matrix. Hence, from now on, why I design from a starting point of IQ/Q = 20 (Q20) and push it from there. So Q20 should give a great all round picture in the CASE of SEDNA as it employs very low Quantisation settings (low is best in simple terms). But we can't go over the top or you introduce other problems and not enough bitrate to handle the job of low Q.

In the end a lot of other factors come into play when assessing sharpeness and Q - and these factors can blind your judgement. For instance, are you correctly exposed? Has the lighting changed? f stop, shutter, picture profile, etc... etc...

A wiki is being made which will explain items like your question.

Keep in mind that 720p has write errors in AQ1 or Q20. At least on a 45mbs sandisk. 24p is excellent.

I'm trying to find a patch that doesn't crash a very good class 10 card and works well in both 30fps and 60fps.

I don't like the idea of upgrading the firmware for every shoot. That increases the risk of ruining your camera at the worst possible time.

@mpgxsvcd.. thanks but I just tried Flowmotion that works fine in all modes. Orion vb also works well. I'm using a SanDisk Extreme 45mbs card, so if the patch is supposed to work on a very good SD card than it should work for on the second fastest card available. And I think I discovered a mistake in Sedna 720p FB2 and Frame Limit setting that needs to be changed.

@jaapsb

Use 720p @ 60/50 FPS, with the movie shutter priority mode and use auto ISO. Auto ISO is neccessary because the lighting will be constantly changing. Set the shutter speed to a fixed 1/120 for NTSC(60 FPS) or 1/100 for PAL(50 FPS).

What lens are you using? I would use something wide and sharp like the 12mm F2.0 or the less expensive 14mm F2.5. Image stabilization won't help because it is fixed to the copter. The 14-140mm might work well but it is heavy and I don't know how much lift your copter has.

You could also use the NTSC 1080p @ 30 FPS if you really want the resolution. However, that frame rate is not really fast enough. Don't use 1080p @ 25 FPS or 24 FPS. Those definitely are not fast enough.

Also make sure that you are in true manual movie mode and not just manual still mode. If you can take a picture then you are in still manual movie mode.

@Jaapsb

Use the 14-42mm, at 1/100, with Auto ISO(Not Inteligent ISO), and turn the IS off. If it is a bright Sunny day then the lens will stop down automatically. That is a good thing up to F8.0 with the 14-42mm.

Slow Motion will look so cool if you use 720p @ 50 FPS.

Oh and post the videos here. I really want to see that one.