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Fujifilm X-H1 aka X-T2s video oriented 4K with IBIS
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  • The creator of the Colorizer LUTs would be interested in making a low-contrast Eterna LUT but needs a X-H1 for several days. If anyone lives in / near Veszprém, Hungary and is willing to connect with him...

    http://colorizer.net/index.php?op=contact

  • @MikeLinn posted this in the X-T2 thread - http://colorizer.net/

    Seem like a good starting point. I'm suggesting a mini campaign to request the creation of a -2, -2, -4 Eterna LUT as well. Will by him a "coffee" for sure.

  • Official PR

    FUJIFILM X-H1 (Ver.1.1.0) – Available in May 2018

    • Addition of Focus Bracketing allows the photographer to shoot focus distance bracketing of up to 999 frames.
    • Compatible with new cinema lenses FUJINON MKX18-55mmT2.9 and FUJINON MKX50-135mmT2.9.
    • Enlarged and customizable indicators and information in the viewfinder and/or LCD monitor. Users can also customize the location of where information is shown on the display.
    • Enhanced Phase Detection AF during movie recording.
    • Expanded Phase Detection AF Area options during still shooting.
    • Enhanced Bluetooth® connectivity with FUJIFILM Camera Remote app.
    • Addition of Fn button support for “IS Mode”.
  • Interesting firmware updates for latest X-cameras, including X-H1 and X-T2: https://www.fujirumors.com/leaked-full-details-of-upcoming-firmware-udpates-first-images-of-gf-250mmf4-and-gf-1-4x-teleconverter/

    Notable for the X-T2 - 120 slow motion, internal F-Log, other substantial updates, no Eterna! sad face on that last point

    Yes, I've been desiring internal F-Log for my X-T2 but that disappeared when I saw the Eterna profile. I was hopeful that would come to the X-T2. I have hopes of the Eterna LUT... But in playing with F-Log from the X-H1, the bummer about the LUT is that it applies a REC 709 curve which crushes shadows far too much for my liking. I know I could dial back the LUT's application some percentage but then you are losing the color as well. I wish there was an Eterna LUT with a much milder curve. When grading, simply applying a curve to F-Log pushes blues to teal or purple (depending upon initial WB), i.e. more fiddly color correction (which is fine, if need be), whereas the LUT just nails the color with a click. But that curve...

    I currently have an X-H1 which I am debating to return. (I actually grabbed that Adorama deal from earlier in the thread. Thanks @Vitaliy!) This is tough - trying to determine if it brings enough benefit.

    I LOVE the shutter, the Eterna, relative ease of switch between photo and video, internal stabilization, quickly grabbing both photo/video with my Fuji lenses.

    The body grip is GOOD but I'm very happy with the X-T2 plus external battery grip. Either work well for lenses such as Sigma's 18-35. The X-H1 plus battery grip does appear larger to subjects - it's more noticeable - than the X-T2 and that's a bummer for the lower-profile event shooting that I do. I like to blend for candids. I would likely shoot the X-H1 w/o the battery grip at such events. 

    I am MEH on the performance of the internal stabilization. It is great to shoot stabilized footage with my 23 or 56, etc. But there is jumpiness that I don't care for and at wider angles, there at times appears to be a "warp stabilizer" effect that I really loathe - I think it happens with a slight change of pitch rather than pan or tilt motions. I have been spoiled with the lens stabilization of Canon's 17-55/2.8 on my C100mkII. I've just picked up Fringer's Smart Adapter and now I really like that lens on the X-T2. It's just large, doesn't go to 1.4, etc.

    I DISLIKE the amount of additional aliasing I am seeing in the X-H1 footage. We all know about the 120 slow-mo but I see it in the 60p in circumstances where the X-T2 has none. Need to look more at the 24p in both HD and 4K to compare.

    So the aliasing and the irregularities of the IBIS are tripping me up thoroughly. Now with this firmware update. Hmmm....

  • I made a YouTube video on a new inexpensive monitor (Feelworld F6, Andycine A6) that helps with some of the shortcomings on the Fuji Cameras.

  • Firmware update Ver.1.01

    1. In the EF (E-FRONT CURTAIN SHUTTER) setting, the warning of “TURN OFF THE CAMERA AND TURN ON AGAIN” could appear in rare cases when the FLICKER REDUCTION setting is ON.
    2. Switching the CUSTOM setting can make the ISO AUTO setting return back to default when the ISO AUTO setting is changed.

    http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/xh1/index.html

  • X-H1 supports also consumer 4K recording at 3840 x 2160 pixels, 'Full HD' at 2048 x 1080 and 1920 x 1080 pixels and HD at 1280 x 720 pixels, all requiring cards with UHS Speed Class 3 or higher. A special high-speed recording mode lets users record Full HD movie clips at up to 100 fps for slow-motion playback, with settings available for half-speed, 1/4 speed and 1/5 speed.

    Nice that they officially provide a 2K option, I feel too many stills cameras leave out 2K as a video option even though they have higher resolution options!

  • Interesting video...

  • Fujifilm X-H1 with MKX 18-55mm T2.9 and MKX 50-135mm T2.9 lenses

  • Fujifilm X-H1 Mirrorless Digital Camera, used, $1799

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B079PTRNKK/

  • @Azo Neither it's complicated I decided a few months ago to get my feet wet with Fuji and bought a X-T20 and for the most part love it. I was also expecting some nice things out of the X-H1 but frankly it came up short. The forced need for the battery grip really annoys me and if I ever get a X-H1 it will never be with grip. Yes they should have put in a bigger battery and/or more efficient processor. only 15 minute recording limit without grip is stupid and they need to kaizen that to 30. My X-T20 does 10 min and the X-H1 only improves on that by 5 minutes! Now for me it doesn't matter I seldom do a take over 5 min but that is a ridiculous limit. The other missing thing is zebras I hate that they don't have them. Now for Sony the body alone seems to be well priced but it is full frame and the glass is pricey so total cost of ownership is high. Now most of the issue is with video and here is my solution buy one of the new monitors Feelworld F6 or Andycine A6 both go for $179 also sold under other names. They take Sony NPF batteries and there is a power out on the monitor so you can use a DC coupler in camera. With this setup I have a very manageable 5.5" monitor that has false colors, magnification, zebras and a headphone out most problems fixed. My X-T20 with the smallest NPF I can get 30 minutes of recording with this setup. In fact I have done 3 10 minute segment right after each other with no hint of over heating. So you got to wonder why we have these limits are the Fuji batteries getting so hot they cause problems? Final comment Fuji lenses are great and APSC is good enough for me but with my little monitor $179 which is way less than a grip I'm sticking with the X-T20 and give them a year but no X-H1 for me unless I get some money to be stupid with. One great thing Fuji did is created a setting to make fly by wire focusing constant vs the variable speed that is common hopefully Panasonic will adopt that idea.

  • In regards to the video posted by MikeLinn. I noticed this on my Fuji XT-2 when I compared the same exposure on my Nikon cameras. It is exactly off by 2/3 of a stop Fuji vs Nikon. Its annoying when I try to shoot with the Nikon and the Fuji under the same lighting conditions, and always have to remember to overexpose for the Fuji or under expose for the Nikon. This is only a problem when I use my light meter and try to get perfect exposure.

    It doesn't surprise me that the A7III is better in lowlight. The problem at this particular point in time is that the Sony A7III brings way more to the table then the Fuji. Fuji also made a huge mistake by not increasing the battery size. This alone was a turn off for me. I shoot my Fuji XT2 with the grip only due to the ergonomics/battery life and don't want to carry around 3 extra batteries all the time. To be fair 3 batteries normally last me the whole day.

    Here is my short quick take on the cameras:

    Fuji = Better EVF, better skin tones straight out of camera with excellent film simulations.

    Sony = Better sensor-full frame, better battery life, better autofocus, better buffer, better lowlight performance, better video features-full frame no crop or super 35, and with the soon to be released Sigma Art Lenses excellent lens selection as well.

    The only thing the Fuji X-H1 has over the Sony A7III at this particular point and time is their film simulations. I like my Fuji XT-2 but comparing the Fuji X-H1/XT-2 against the Sony A7III? No comparison... Sony A7III all the way no questions asked. Now if the Fuji X-H1 with the battery grip was about $1500.00 then it would be something to consider looking at price point alone. However that is not the case and being that the battery life is dismal the battery grip is actually a neccesity with the Fuji X-H1/XT-2 camera. So the Fuji X-H1 will actually cost $2199 vs $1999 for the Sony A7III.

    I am curious as to who would buy Fuji X-H1 over the Sony A7III?

    I would buy the Sony A7III at this particular point and time.

    What would you buy ???