VK I know, I am addressing what Kurth is saying above about the "new optics or new version" advertised on RJ's website.

I hope RJ explain what he mean by new and improvement done on the new lenses. Also, sample tests that show the previous vs new improvement would help. I am still anxious in clicking the button on the eos adapter. Still waiting on MB's eos-mft and don't mind the higher price for better quality. If RJ takes care of the blue spots, I will buy in a heart beat.

@kurth

Cheaper adapters, in fact, originate from RJ. But optical part is different. Hence price difference (as optics cost 80% of adapter).

The RJ fd adapter, like normal fd adapters , has the engagement pin. The eos doesn't. I think that's a great solution for those with nikon AND eos lenses. What ever works. Otherwise, I think you buy the correct RJ mount. It's not like they cost $400 ! I don't think stacking adapters is anymore risky than using adapters in the first place, as long as the visual results are suitable. And I don't think there's any extra room inside the focal reducers for placing an nd. Now ...the only particular problem is how to change fstop on eos lenses with the RJ eos adapter ? The only problem with using vnd's is your stuck with the lens aperture open. I'm thinking along these lines -

http://store.lensbaby.com/products/Replacement-Magnetic-Aperture-Set.html

ps...the company that releases an eos to m43 focal reducer with aperture control will sell a load !

@CameraRick As mentioned before I stack adapters too and I carefully check results. If I like the results it's fine by me. I also glue small ND8 filters in adapters and switch adapters to compensate for exposure. I believe it has a lot of advantages against ND or vari-ND on the front lens. It's cheaper and fits every lens. I use Heliopan 40mm ND8 and have less problems with reflections caused by front filters or the vari-ND polarisation effect. Only problem with superwide 11-18 lens is that the distance scale changes and I can't focus up close anymore. I will experiment with placing the ND closer to the lens than the camera sensor. See if that helps. With an 35mm up to 400mm+1.4x TC I can focus all the way.

Is there room for a ND filter in the RJ and does it affect image quality? You can also glue in a stepup ring and switch ND in the adapter so you don't need two RJ. This is not a fast solution.

Everyone, read this here: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/09/there-is-no-free-lunch-episode-763-lens-adapters

We had discussion about it.

If you ask me, I think it is flowed article as company who made it is extremely interested in outcome so you'll rent lenses from them, and pricy lenses. I am sure numbers are accurate is some part, but most probably adapters, lenses and test methods were specially selected to exaggerate flaws.

Of course it does not mean that you must stack adapters, it is really not best idea until you have no other solution.

You could always add tape or better calibrated peel tape to take up the play. This kind of stuff/trick has always been used for ajustemenst in mechanical engineering. I do it on my cheapo adapter and I don'th have any issues!

@vicharris I'm with you that this is not always a good idea. Get quality adapters (maybe not the cheapest ones) and it works flawless. Using Nikon to EF, OM to EF, M42 to EF and Pentax to EF on this Lens Turbo so far, and works flawless. So what.

@CameraRick Perfect that's what I wanted to hear :)

@ICProductions yes and yes.dont know why this shouldnt make sense? nikon 2 FD http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/nikon-lens-canon-fd.htm M42 2 FD http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00005QFAN/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller

@kurth Actually, when I first starting using adapters I did exactly what @MarcioK is talking about with the cheap adapters I bought off of Ebay. Not perfect but it worked without a hitch.

@MarcioK

Honestly mate, I don't know where you're going with this. All that then does is make the lens aperture ring completely unusable...defeating the design and intended purpose of the adapter, whether it's the RJ or any other adapter, normal or focal reducer, which is to allow you to use the lens the way it's was purposely designed ! That locking ring is there for a purpose. It's not an aperture adjustment ring or anything intended to be used as such. It's intended design purpose is to engage the lens to fool it into thinking it's actually on a fd camera, allowing the lens aperture ring to work properly. And it won't do that i.e. open the aperture on an eos lens, which is the RJ adapter that doesn't have any adjustment. Only on manual lenses that already have aperture rings made for that exact purpose. If you want de-clicked aperture adjustment, you can pay for a service that does just that, or there's some instructions online that explain how , if you're mechanically inclined. And as a final note, I would imagine , once being a mech engineer, that repeated and habitual use of the lock ring for disengaging the lens aperture adjustment, would theoretically loosen it's tightening capacity, which would eventually make the adapter useless. Obviously that would be more expensive for the focal reducers like the RJ. But everybody to their own way of working.