Did you guys know about this thread discussing the effect of a magenta filter placed over the sensor? It's very easy to put the gel over the sensor, btw. http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/2663/purple-filter-can-improve-image-on-gh1gh2..-project-blue-light/p1

Also, this post by a talented colorists explain some post tricks for skin tones. He uses BMCC but the principle applies to GH3 as well. http://juanmelara.com.au/blackmagic-cinema-camera-davinci-resolve-colour-grading-breakdown/

@wgtwo The post I made after yours the stills are graded, but like I said there was not much to grade. First post was ungraded, only magenta brightness down

@Vesku I try to shot at 0 EV, I've tried under exposing and over exposing and I always struggle with skin tones. After seeing almost every gh3 video on vimeo, I have not seen good skin tones in any. Almost everyone shoots Natural -4 or -5. When I shoot 0 I'm happy (or just ok) with my tones but the black level looks very harsh.

Oh, ok, I thought that was just with the magenta adjustment. Then what does it look like with just the magenta adjustment and nothing else?

Huh, that does look a lot better. Maybe do a full grade and then take a look at that with and without the magenta adjustment.

I think I found the reason why the skin looks muddy on the GH3 at -5 (mostly).

Here's one of the worst case of weird looking skin I saw, the shadow part of the skin is very bright and clay like.

To get a more natural look( still think the footage is garbage) I just removed some magenta hue brightness, might have overdone it...

Looks like the reds on the GH3 might be too bright...

@maddog15 how did you made ​​the color correction?

sorry, wrong topic///

@maddog15

Pretty hard color correction. I think upper one looks better though a little flat.

Thank you @maddog15. I used 2 fresnels and led160 with jell and different ND/apertures - the same manual 3400 WB, I had to do CC to match skin especially because skin its only colour there. So after all I reed here I was wander what you think. Thanks again as Im not confident in this area yet. BTW that was shot in my living room 4.5x4m as a first use/test fresnels when I got them-love them want more:)

I normally use a hand-held meter to set exposure (Sekonic L-358). Used in incident-mode, with the dome DOWN and pointed to the major light source, as I don't want any "averaging" effect. I want to know where I'm putting the highlights. That's what I measure for ... simple quantity falling on subject from the 'main' source.

I then manually set WB for most things through an Expo-Disc (neutral), and then probably go into the WB settings to "adjust" that just a bit just a point or two "down" to the magenta side, and "left" to the amber side another point or two.

I'd note, I also always have the histogram showing on the GH3's screen, and proper setting by the meter nearly always gives the 'yellow' histogram scale showing the camera also thinks the exposure is correct ... but I'm still more comfortable setting this by hand measurement.

I'm currently working at -3-3-1-4 (contrast, sharpness, saturation, noise reduction). Bringing this into P-Pro (CC) I don't see any exposure problems or changes from the view on the camera's OLED. Naturally, when shooting at a minus-contrast setting, in many situations the highlights aren't quite highlight enough ... as I would expect.

So ... sometimes it simply needs a gamma lift, but often just a bit of gain adjust. I rarely, rarely need touch the "offset" or base exposure control in Speedgrade at all, and when I do ... it will be to adjust typically only one channel for more color-mod than base exposure change.

I'll work the grade first for tonality ... then bring input saturation up until the colors start to ... become just a little "richer"? ... then grade for color ... not normally needing more than say, using a bit of highlight-warming/shadow-cooling to give a bit of feel, occasionally choosing a small bit of color-balance adjusting to the overall, then up the output saturation until it feels ... right.

It's different than I typically have worked stills, as there ... still shooting fairly "flat", I'll over-saturate a bit to correct WB and hues & etc, THEN back off sat a bit to do my tonality work after coloring.

But this process seems to get me where I want to end up quicker with video from my GH3 or the D600, and there's not typically a lot of change I'll do. Typically the footage comes in very close to neutral/barely warm, and just needs massaging to get "feel" from it.

And ... this is the best process I've been able to get so that skin "works" for my little projects. Still I REALLY wish Adobe put proper "graticules" on their vectorscopes, especially in Speedgrade. I can mask a bit down to skin, then check the vectorscope for where that bit lies on the scale, and I'm pretty good at guessing the "skin-line" territory, but I DON'T like guessing! (The "graticules" are the boxes and lines for color/hue standards.)

Neil

@starios

Did you ment 1-2 whole esposure steps underexp (not 2 clicks). Is there then too little light for sensor to make good result?

I never use iAuto for video. Too contrasty and shutter may be whatever and too much sharpening.

I at once went out shooting and I looked GH3 OLED and scenery which I was shooting. I tried to set WB with GH3 screen to match what I see with my eyes. I shooted also auto WB shots in same situations. Almost always camera auto WB was best when I saw results.

I have tried many times to set manual WB indoors too but not succeeded very well. I just dont trust GH3 displays. It may be that eye sees camera display and scenery differently in shooting situations because almost always when I mess with WB results becomes worse. Or maybe it is too difficult to me.

I am almost always underexposing 1/3 or 2/3 step with natural -5 contrast.

@Vesku I use gh3 screen, I know it's not the best way but my point is that when you set saturation at +5 everything is of course fake but even in gh3 screen every change in wb is visible for balancing the different color areas. To tell you the truth, I have a cheap 1080 LG monitor calibrated by a friend with his equipment and I don't see much difference from camera screen to monitor in color, the big difference is in exposure, gh3 is always brighter sometimes more than 1 stop