OK so i'm looking in to modding my hd-1000.

Even with my GH1 and Tokina + Quick release plate, I seem to be having issues with it penduluming. I've had it for a couple of years now and done lots of reading up on it and experimenting. I understand how to balance and have had it balanced correctly (used spirit levels, experimented with multiple different drop times) I also understand how to walk with and hold it blah blah but I've heard mixed reviews with the hd-1000 and some people have said that even maxed out, it just isn't heavy enough to create enough inertia. Now, i'm not one of those people concerned with keeping the rig light and only bought the 1000 over the 2000 or 4000 because of price. I was thinking to get a longer telescopic pole and add weights to the bottom and top to make it similar to the 2000/4000. In theory, would this work? or am i better off selling the 1000 and getting a 4000.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Mike

@labalbi

The weight of GH3 is slightly more, but it is not much important.

As for FlyCam Nano, don't buy it, as it is pain in the ass to balance.

@vicharris

Be more calm :-)

Anyone tried the Flycam nano with the new GH3 ?

@pc_bel

@tommy might be referring to the way a DSLR user can pass unnoticed; ie low profile. (Works for me).

@inhousegoods

It is not a good thing, you an contact me I'll give you details concerning Wondlan solutions with good vest.

Does anyone have any experience on this vest setup?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Stabilizer-Steadicam-Camera-Video-Steadycam-Vest-Arm-/140865928618?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20cc437daa

I'm leaning towards the glidecam smooth shooter + HD 1000/2000 combo, but I'm looking for a cheaper alternative. Seeing if there are any other options to a steadicam vest type setup.

I just purchased Glidecam HD2000. It works perfectly with GH2 and SLR Magic 12mm. I have two weights total on the bottom and camera+lens on the top. Highly recommend it. I will post some footage soon.

@ricker in my opinion HD1000 is the right tool for GH2. For HD2000 GH2 is too light. Consider that for a bigger camera you need to be in a very good physical shape and you might get quick to a point where an arm or a vest could become necessary if you want to work more than some minutes. I would recommend to start with the HD1000 and think again when you have your bigger camera. From my experience there is no future proof buying in electronical gadgets. I buy only for my current purpose.

Glidecam HD-2000 Review

http://derrannl.blogspot.nl/2012/05/glidecam-hd-2000-review-and-video.html

Ahh.. Russian Ark, such a great film and a miraculous technical achievement!

And to throw my two cents in here... I've tried the Steadicam Merlin and a Glidecam 2000 and had fits with them both. I was using a 5D with a 28-70 zoom and couldn't get the damn things to balance very well. They would inevitably always sway a bit side to side. It seemed like they needed more weight on top and weren't really designed for smaller DSLR rigs (it seems others have chimed in above with that same feedback).

I was really trying to accomplish side to side movements (akin to dolly movement) but those units seemed best when moving forward rather than side to side. They always tilted slightly to the left or right along with my movement.

@lebowski1998 "It looks like we need a shootout to decide which steadicam is the best."

Note that "wandering around the garden" shots are largely useless for comparative testing of stabiliser rigs and operator ability.

The most meaningful test of a stabiliser+operator (for most indie movie users) is the ability to maintain a walking shot preceding an actor with a mild zoom setting (e.g. 25mm on GH2). Pay attention to the fine points of correct headroom, ability to smoothly start/stop, negotiate basic obstacles like rough ground or a step up/down, and a clean lock-off.

FOR THE PURPOSES OF THIS FORUM: I suggest a simple "60 second stabiliser test shot" that many people could replicate and submit for comparison: i.e. >>> actor starts sitting in a stationary car >>> gets out of car >>> answers mobile phone >>> starts walking towards camera >>> camera maintains 20+ seconds of perfect framing preceding actor as he/she talks ... includes actor walking up or down a gutter/short steps/simple obstacle >>> shot pauses in 5-sec lock-off >>> camera then circles 360 around actor >>> shot lock-off >>> actor steps out of frame.

There would be browny points for inclusion of tilting up/down at various points on the shot, and working with longer lens settings. This will sort the wheat from the chaff.

The methodology for a more detailed steadicam/stabiliser "shootout" would need to be based on the standard set of about ten Steadicam Operator's "precision training drills" with cross-hair targets ... involving pan, tilt, changing body positions, acceleration/de-acelleration in all axes, obstacles and lock-offs.

The standard training drills for Steadicam operators are demonstrated very well at:

The drills are also written up in detail in the Steadicam Operators Handbook by Jerry Holway & Laurie Hayball (Focal Press, 2009) p 57 approx $50 . This book is an essential resource for anyone taking steadicam seriously. (2nd edition due out soon).

For DIY stabiliser buffs, there is also a massive wealth of DIY plans, info and tips for modifuing commercial rigs (hand held and mechanical) at the new location of: www.hbsforum.com

Happy to share further thoughts on the stabilisation grail ... chris.poynton@gmail.com www.cp.org.au/movies

Just wondering if anyone has hooked up a 7" monitor to the bottom of one of these? Looking at the HD2000 and wondering if that was possible. I would think that would already rule out the smaller units, such as the HD1000.