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ColorGHear TOOLKIT- color grading SYSTEM for AE
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  • @starstuff i rarely use more than 4 lights. This was done with 2 plastic ball-lights, which are just these cheap white balls of plastic that you stick an incandescent bulb in. They were on either side of the bed about 7 feet apart, and we had them up on wine glasses to get them a little higher, and more even with his head. the back one was pulled out a bit from the wall to get a better angle. You could use small china-balls instead and it'll do the same thing. And I had them on dimmers. (go build a few, like right now...I'm serious. Why are you still reading this? Go make yourself some damn dimmers!!!) I used some double stick tape to stick a 2 foot flo bar on the wall above his head (the hair highlight got cropped in that pic), and there is no fill light

    The colors of the sheets, head board, and curtains helps a lot. You can't pull this off with white walls and white sheets. In my opinion white walls are at best; a nuisance, and at worst; the devil. It'll all be covered in the CGT film school - coming very soon.

  • Great stuff Shian and a fan of your work =)

  • Really beautiful stuff Shian!

  • @shian

    How did you light this: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/uploads/FileUpload/a4/19451ba85d0ff9b3e0a2779e2ee14e.png

    It looks spectacular as an ungraded grab and I'm trying to achieve something similar but fail. I assume it's "just" the lighting that is different to my approach and not the lens etc, seeing as you are shooting with a Nikkor 1.8 too (which I have) and the lighting on those are similar to this one (in terms of quality). Do you recall what you used here? How many lights and at what angles, what quality? Not sure if I'm on the right track with my assumptions.

  • updated reel

    Now contains footage from my recent shoots, and some shots have updated grading with release version of CGT. (2011 Reel done with prototype)

  • What????? More!!!!

    Ok we can wait ;)

  • Thanks Shian Looking forward to it =)

  • Sorry to delay the grain tutorial again (its coming along nicely, all the mysterious inner workings of GK will be revealed) but I just got offered the DP gig on a well known pay cable series (details to come after the paperwork is signed), I'm going to be slammed for the next few weeks, but I will try desperately to finish the tutorial and get it online in my down time, so hopefully this weekend.

  • Anyone gone through post-processing pain would wanna get it right next time ;)

  • It's the same with everything though isn't it. Anything can be fixed, it's just a matter of how much money you have to throw at it.

  • great reading shian, what amazes me is that post can almost fix or modify everything you get out of camera yet its kinda a downside to it. trying to get the best quality out of the camera when you are shooting is the best one can do!

  • @johnnym Excellent point. The Alexa has an amazing sensor, and costs $80,000 for a body. I can't show you the footage because the project is still in development, but in 2010 I shot a short scene for a proof of concept in available light on the RED M-X @1600 with Zeiss super speeds, and 1600 worked great. But you should have seen how freaked out the producer was that I was even considering going past 800, and not using lights. We did a couple of test shots at 2000 and 3200 in that same light just to see what would we get, and after looking at the footage projected, It was a unanimous decision that we never exceed 1600 on the project. There was noise, mild banding and sensor pattern grids (moire) that would require heavy post processing, and would not fit within the budget (Which by Hollywood standards was low, but it's more money than most of us will make in a lifetime).

    There was a lot of discussion amongst my colleagues when the Alexa and the M-X chip first came out about how little noise there was @1600, and with really fast lenses we could shoot things we couldn't shoot before. BUT there are problems - enough so that my old mentor John Lowry was called upon to scrub the grain, moire, and banding in all the 2000 ISO footage from "The Social Network" to make it presentable. And trust me there's NOTHING on the market that even approaches John's methods ( http://www.lowrydigital.com ) If there was, Reliance wouldn't be in business. You could take your footage to Reliance, and you'd spend more than the cost of an Alexa just fixing one scene shot in available light to get that look. So don't take everything you read at face value. There are forces at work behind the scenes that are beyond our meager pocketbooks. Roger Deakins doesn't operate in the same monetary world as the average DSLR shooter. I'm advising you based on your GH2 purchase, and assuming you do not posses the monetary means to shoot Alexa or RED, and pay high 6 figures for post-production.

    And we're talking about the Alexa and the M-X, NOT the GH2 - 4K 4:4:4 cameras with high native ISOs vs a 1080 4:2:0 camera with a 320 native ISO. Having shot on all 3, I'm telling you, there is no comparison. I love my GH2, and when used within it's limitations I can get really great looking stuff out of it, but it is simply not in the same class with Alexa and RED, not at 1600, not even close, much less above. And everything I've shot at 1600 I've used GHrain Killer on to ease the noise and mild moire. I've shown you that the GH2 has a limited effective Dynamic Range, and in the film school series I'll show you how to operate within that range, how to think within the limitations in order to have flexibility within that range, BUT you are limited to that range.

    I get it, we all love our GH2. It is an AMAZING cameras, and with the hack development, we've learned that the camera is so much more than what people thought it could be. Many of us, myself included, have made the mistake believing it was MORE than it was capable of being. (There's a lot of 5D and 7D users making the same mistakes) But it has limitations. Who knows? Maybe the GH3 will be the camera to smash through the boundaries, maybe the C300 and the Mark III already have (Granted they are pricey). I'm sure someday soon, digital will sense light as well as the human eye, if not better, with no noise or artifacts. But it's not now, and we live and work in the now.

    The banding issue can be fixed right now, but it has to be done by an intricate, patented process. And it's about as much fun to do as a root canal. If I could figure out how to do it another way...well I'd be rich. And there are already finer minds than my own that have been working on the problem for years. And before you ask, no, I can't do a tutorial on it... not without being sued. It is a patented process. I've been very careful that everything I've done with CGT not infringe upon those patents. It's very serious business.

    But like i said, I'll try to find a way within CGT to reduce the effect, but for now, don't shoot above 1600. -- There's an old joke about the guy who goes to the doctor and says, "My arm hurts when I bend it like this". And the doctor says, "It's not suppose to bend like that. Knock it off."

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  • @johnnym really interesting info

    @shian would be greatly appreciated if you'd find a recipe against the horizontal banding!

  • @shian I'm no expert and i don't know what you'd normally shoot at, but reading through Roger Deakins' forum, i read that he with the Alexa he has the possibility to shoot with just the available light. Doesn't that mean he does sometimes shoot over 1600 ISO? Just thinking out loud here. I would think the Alexa can effortlessly handle that and that digital sensors now far exceed the capabilities of film?

  • @RJH Not as of yet. It's still being invited to screen at festivals worldwide. I figured I'd give it till the requests slow down, or till someone finally decides to make the feature version. But since it is relevant to ColorGHear, as it was the probably the project that solidified most of what is in CGT I may as well share so peeps know to what you are referring:

    Shot with Panasonic HVX200, redrock adapter, and the same lenses I use now on my GH2, sans the Panasonic Lenses as they were not invented yet, and graded using a primitive version of CGT.

  • @shian Love that grab. Hopefully when you get time you can show us how you did that one?

  • @shian I completely agree with everything you've said there. It's just that the camera performs incredibly good at high ISO for its price range. It's a trick in the hat that's just nice to know you have in case an extreme situation comes up but with the band issue we can't rely on it. In any case, thanks a lot for taking the time to answer and for trying to fix it. Have a great weekend!

  • @shian sorry to go off topic but is Singularity online? I was watching the BTS on your vimeo but I couldn't see the film itself.

  • OK, that explains it. I never shoot 1600 unless I absolutely have to, and NEVER shoot above 1600, not even on the RED M-X which is a native ISO800 camera. EVER. In any narrative film, one with a script and a story, If I HAVE to shoot above 1600 ISO, then I have done something seriously wrong.

    Now none of what follows is intended to be condescending or demeaning in anyway. We are all here to learn. (I learn something new here everyday.)

    If I were to gather every member of both the ASC and the BSC together in a room, and say, "You are the people responsible for filming nearly every film we've seen in theaters in the past 40 years. How many of you have ever shot on 3200 speed color film?" I'm sure nearly every one of them would raise their hands. If I followed that question with: "Now, how many of you have ever shot 3200 speed color film on a deliverable project?" (A feature film, music video, or commercial) Not only would no one raise their hand, I would likely receive the comment, "We'd like to keep our careers."

    The ISO removal feature is a nice thing to have, but just because one can do a thing, doesn't mean one must do a thing. I used the ISO removal feature once to shoot a B&W documentary style piece for a friend's band playing in a nightclub and I needed to have a zoom lens, and so I took the kit lens which is a lowly 3.5-5.6, and was shot at 12800, using the first B&W setting. The footage was grainy, but it was a nice grain, but reminded me of some of the old documentary footage I have seen over the years. No noticeable banding. Probably because it was B&W.

    But that is an extreme condition. Most of us that are working DPs, only work in extreme conditions rarely. And that is why most documentaries that need to be shot in nightclubs or comedy clubs are shot in B&W, because like the rods in our our eyes, B&W works better in the dark. There is a reason News Cameras have lights mounted on them, as do documentary film cameras. If shooting in the dark is your chosen canvas, get one, and learn to love B&W.

    The GH2 is not the camera to smash boundaries with its ability to see in the dark, but it is a fantastic camera for those who will be lighting their scenes for narrative features or shorts.

    Now, that being said, I will look into finding a fix for the issue. but it doesn't look promising, considering the nature of the issue.

  • @shian I would bet that the issue exits in every GH2 out there. It's only more evident in some of them. In my case (I have an early 2011 body), it's clearly visible in fairly underexposed scenes above ISO 1600 and in anything above ISO3200 (the ISO limit removal in the hack is useless in most cases because of the issue). Some surfaces make the problem far more evident: walls with midtones, etc. Normally I don't bump into the issue because it's rare that I need that combination of high ISO and underexposure, but I want to shoot a doc in the dark night of my old neighborhood and being able to use higher ISOs and shoot against walls with confidence would be nice. I tried this solution: http://personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/11422#Comment_11422 with some success but only some. That’s why I thought that the power of the GHears combined with your expertise could give us a solution to get rid/minimize the problem but obviously only if you have the time and consider this worth it.

  • @atticusd I've never seen any horizontal banding on my camera... ever. You might have a bad sensor. It happens. I got an email the other day from someone who had to send their camera back twice till they got one without that defect. It is not to my knowledge an acceptable part of owning a GH2, but a defect in manufacturing that needs to be addressed by sending the camera in for warranty work.

    Of course I've never shot anything but 24p.

  • @shian It would be really nice to have a tutorial on using ColorGHear to get rid of the infamous horizontal band: http://personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/36898#Comment_36898

    Do you think that we could have something like that in the near future? It's one of the only things about this camera that really bug me.

    Thanks!

  • @RJH He is indeed. Bob is one of the coolest guys I know. I love working with him.

  • @shian that frame is beautiful! He's not the same guy from Aaron Sims' Archetype is he?

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