Thanks @yskunto replied me quickly. That's poor me as others who had Japanese version cameras at this time, but still hope @Vitaliy will release hack for that model soon. About return item is not big problem and I can get Asian PAL version, but it is still quite expensive right now that's why I got Japanese with cheaper price. I don't use video function so I don't mind about it.

Sorry that I might late to be here, but I just got a G6 Japanese version and there does not have English language to switch. I also spent some hours to search around G! this problem, but did not get any lucks. At the end of searching, I found this place and would like to know do I have chance to hack Japanese to English language for my G6 at this time?

@dishe thanks for putting the answers in 1 place!

Not sure if any of these questions got answered elsewhere on the forum, but I'd like to chime in with some of the answers that I've discovered myself:

1) Those of you complaining about the lack of constant preview on this camera (especially when working with manual glass), there is actually a "preview" function which can be mapped to a fn button. Antonglamb mentioned it above, but the responses that came afterwards appear to have missed that nugget of wisdom. I mapped my AE/AF lock button to that (because it is conveniently placed, another good option is to map the Wifi button), and now when I'm shooting stills I just hit that button for a live preview of the actual exposure I'm going to get. Its funny how it works, the live view sort of slows down to like 5fps when preview is on- I'm guessing that's a feature to illustrate how your motion blur will look since there is a noticeable gap between displayed live frames for you to judge any kind of blurring. Almost like it is constantly taking a picture. I'd actually rather it didn't do that because I just want to check my exposure and the slow refresh rate is annoying, but totally works perfectly if you want to adjust your exposure and see the results in real time.

2) The 720x480 videos coming off the G6 are some sort of Windows 7 bug. It reports that 1080 24p files are only 720x480, and therefore WMP only plays them at that size. But you'll notice a lot of aliasing because the screen is being forced to play at the wrong size... if you full-screen the video, you can see the resolution is all there. Any other app you throw it into (Sony Vegas, Premiere, VLC, etc) all recognize the 1080p resolution, so this isn't a G6 fault, its something wonky in Windows 7. Windows 8, for the record, reports the proper resolution. And a 1080 60p file is correctly reported, so it is just a bug between 1080/24 and Windows 7 that has absolutely no real derogatory effect on anything, other than scaring the pants of a new user who thinks they ruined their shot in low res!

3) Battery thing that Chungda mentioned is not a real thing. I'm guessing the contacts on one of the batteries got dirty (I've had that happen on my Canon bodies as well). So putting the old one back in seemed to work, but the new one did not, because the new one probably wasn't making contact. I have 4-5 batteries between this and my GH2s, and I swaps them freely all the time, some after market, some genuine. It doesn't care. In fact, the G6 has an advantage over the GH2 in that it reports battery life on aftermarket batteries. The GH2 wouldn't tell me how much juice is left unless it was an official battery, which was a major risk on a paying gig. The G6 happily tells me, and warns me when it is getting low, and shuts down when depleted just like an OEM battery. Nice!

4) Starsailor, that sounds like frequency collision between the lights and your shutter speed. That can happen on any camera. The lights are flickering at a refresh rate your eyes can't notice, but the camera's shutter is capturing it in the middle of a refresh phase. This is the same reason we used to see the scan lines moving up or down on a TV or old computer monitor in a video recording- the refresh rate between the display and recording are colliding. To fix this you need to either change your shutter speed or the light source. It has nothing to do with ISO.

Again, I apologize if these are well known and already answered elsewhere in the forum. I just noticed that no one was coming back to answer these questions here so I figured we should tie up the loose ends for future readers!

@dishe the same thing happens to me with WMP. The files are recognized fine in PP tho.

Hey! It's fixed!! What happened was the sensor overheated because I was shooting during the mid-day of a super sunny day at 1.7 aperture! But after 4 days my burst rate is at the higest speed again!! So be careful guys when the sun is on the top of the sky and there is high luminosity, because at 1.7 aperture and in manual mode the sensor could become overheated.

Did you check your settings? There's different rates to choose from.

Don't know why but am using original batteries so, its not like 3rd party battery fault. Plus it should be something inside the camera so you can only replace it at certain point so battery can have longer life span. But for what I was shooting totally was annoying as I had to shoot a short theatre play and wanted to replace battery before it to have enough power but now made that I had to change battery in the middle instead.

@chungdha mine doesn't do this, sounds like a fault with battery

The live exposure in M mode is quite annoying when taking photos often get totally different thing then what you see on the monitor or evf. Have to switch to Mvideo move which does have live exposure and then go back to M mode to take a photo. Cause M alway does auto exposure and give you a false images.

Timelapse is really cool to have it in camera but annoyingly its multi button menu to stop it as you need to hit fn4 and then choose stop and if you have allot of fast exposure like half a second its impossible to stop it with that method and just need to force stop it by shutting down the camera.

Also notice when I did a sunset time-lapse the time-lapse flickers and see it not gradually get dark but jumps around while having it on full manual not sure if anyone else notice that.

@Rivo_Kikkul in M mode with the kit lens is the only time that you cannot get live view. In A, S, and Video modes, using either the kit lens or a legacy lens, you get live view if you change the settings with the toggle lever. If your camera is not doing this then may be get it checked. And by the way - I also own a GH2.

OK, I stand half corrected about the exposure in M mode. I originally answered thinking about video mode - using the toggle changes exposure live (my bad). In A mode and S mode again you can get exposure changes live using the toggle to change exposure settings. Now in M mode it can work 2 ways - if you have the kit lens on then it does not give you real exposure levels, however, if you put an old manual lens on and start changing the aperture manually you will see the LCD brightening and darkening in real-time. I use an old nifty 50mm lens on mine a lot of the time.