The weak point of most of the non Metabones focal reducers is that they are not as sharp at the edges, so before I would invest in such an extreme wide angle lens to be used with a focal reducer, I would look the combinations up and find some examples first to make sure they are sharp enough for your use. Stopped down a little, it might be fine though.

@Adinan Be aware, though, that the aperture ring on the RJ Lens Turbo does not have adequate throw length for fine control. It has a short throw ring and while you can set the aperture anywhere you like, there is no fine control over where it is truly set.

Hey guys. I haven't read through the entirety of the topic so I don't know if this has been addressed. Is there a way to control the aperture and use the RJ booster? For instance, getting Nikon lenses, then getting a Nikon > m4/3 adapter with aperture control, using the adapter to close down the lens, then take it off and put it back on the RJ? Or a Nikon to EF adapter ring, then doing the same thing?

@Fabian

As you understand, very big amount of people have such adapters and none have such things. So it seems to be some defect either in screw or in the hole placement.

I received the adapter some weeks ago and I love it. There are some flaws however that anyone receiving it should take into consideration.

First, before trying to put it onto your camera remove the screw sticking out of it at the side. The screw while untouched has damaged my cameramount and it didn't help at all to screw it tightly in, more damage while trying to mount. Everything will stay in place without the screw.

Secondly, the screws on top and bottom of the adapter are quite loose and should be tightened with a fitting screwdriver if you want a solid setup without play. I'm using the Samyang 10mm f/2.8 and could see the hood (which is slightly visible on top and bottom of the image) moving when touching the lens which means not being properly aligned at all times, meaning for example bad corners. Screwing all 7 screws tightly fixed this.

Hi, those adapters are gread for manual controls. Will new ones with automatic (zoom & focus) controls be avalaible in the future ?

@Joewickert Yes. You can snip the pin if you do not intend to use the lens on old minolta bodys any more. Very interesting that adapter! Thanks for sharing!

Ok let me find a frame .not sure .It was the first patch that were sold via our deals here about a year ago now

I ordered mine from our deals here few month back .it's always on my gh1 .The only thing I hate about it the purple dot .really some shots I can't use because of how much it's seen .not sure if different copies have less or more of the effect .but really something that bothers me .Other than that I'm to me real life test looks sharp.

I very carefully removed some of the grease in the ring--it was enough to drip out at some point, it is fine now, you will need to work the ring quite a few times, and don't take it all out.

My mini review: I have a lot of old glass, Nikon, Rokkor and Minolta. My goal was simple: if I have a good prime lens, this converter should, theoretically, give me two good primes. I wasn't so thrilled with the idea of a super fast lens, even though my Nikkor 35/1.4 is now also a 25/1.0, I knew that the 1.0 would be pretty marginal. However, 25mm at 2.0, nothing to sneeze at.

The good: doubles your lens collection. The bad: old lenses are not as good. Noteworthy: some of these older primes cost less than the adapter.

The converter obviously is only as good as your glass. So I took my Nikkor 85/2 prime and, voila, I have a 60mm prime. It is as good as my Russian 58mm prime, but not better. On the other hand, it is worse than my Vivitar 55mm macro, which beats the socks off it. And yet, I now have a 60/1.4ish lens. That Vivitar 55 is one monster lens on m/43.

Similarly, my Nikkor 105/2.5 is now a 75mm lens. Well, I don't own a 75mm, so how cool is that? And my 35 is now a 25, which, though not as sharp as my Panny 20mm, is still very cool. So if your legacy lens gaps will create new focal lengths, that is a real plus. If you wind up duplicating a lens you own, it isn't worth it. A really high quality zoom would give you a somewhat different zoom range.

The converter itself is well made. Depending on how I put the lens in, I could use the built in aperture slider for stepless, or the aperture ring on the lens, but not at the same time. So that's cool. There is also an add on ring that allows for a tripod. I had assumed that this would be integral, whether this is an older or newer version of the lens I can't say. Ordered it through PV, of course. I would prefer an integral mount to the add on clip I received, BFD who cares.

I often read a lot of online stuff about how lens X is "sharp wide open". There must be a million posts with this claim. If it is legacy glass, this is really BS. Even the Hexanon 57mm or the Nikkor 50/1.8 is not sharp wide open. So what this lens does, essentially, is to give you an extra legacy lens, with really very little change in the quality. What it does not do is give you a "sharp wide open" lens, unless you start with something more recent, like the Rokinon 85mm.

The Rokinon 14mm is very sharp (but with distortion), so if you can correct it in post, you get two super wides for the price of one, with the caveat that maybe the adapter is not ideal for landscapes. With the adapter, you are in the 10mm range, that's a pretty wide lens.

Lastly, you can shoot at ~F3.2-F4 indoors, instead of one stop slower, because you get a bit more light. That's a nice perk. A Tokina 11-16 becomes a super, super wide, but that is not a cheap lens.

So for the price, it's a no brainer, but don't expect to use it on legacy glass wide open.

@lmackreath If your post to me, yes we shoot everything in natural -5, but in grade we not simply apply a LUTs:) And yes, in speedgrade you can choose the strenght of lut..

10 minutes ago shoot interview for my friend. Shooting in vivid, all at 0, because will be not grading in this video. Pana G6+RJ+Nikkor-S 50/1.4 wide open.