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GH3 tips and tricks topic
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  • @v10tdi

    If you take a still during video then you can see the EXIF data. If you create a still during playback then you still get some of the data. I think ISO is the value that doesn't register if the still is created in playback. I am not certain on that though.

  • Any of the aforementioned "Tips and Tricks" have changed with the new Firmware Update?

  • Yes I watched that video also it seems the tiffen is a good bet sharper than the others also Heliopan good for bokeh

  • @mpgxsvcd Good point! Actually, how can you tell what the aperture is doing? I had just assumed it was fixed, but I don't see any affirmative indication of what is happening - the aperture value disappears when movie recording is activated (no indication of ISO value, either).

  • I recently got a 58mm Tiffen variable nd filter than I like a lot. Not usually a fan of Tiffen products but I saw a video review that ranked their ND filter highly -- even better than the Heliopan in some ways.

  • Could you recommend me a variable nd filter .i like my subject in the center ,

    Please, use proper place for such question.

  • Could you recommend me a variable nd filter .i like my subject in the center ,

  • @Lumens The general rule is to choose a shutter speed that's roughly double your fps. The main idea there is to preserve a film-like look in terms of motion blur, as that mimics the 180 degree shutter of a film camera. Higher shutter speeds tend to produce more of a video look.

    OTOH hand, there are sometimes reasons to ignore rules of thumb. Better to have a video-like shot than an overexposed shot (though best to have your ND filters). A pet peeve of mine is people treat these rules of thumb (e.g. NEVER center your subject in the frame!!) as if they were carved in stone and delivered from on high by Moses.

  • @Lumens

    just been watching discover mirrorless with will crockett

    There is your first mistake.

  • @v10tdi

    Double check that. Flicker Decrease is not available in Aperture Priority video mode(It is greyed out). In all stills mode including aperture priority it will switch to Program Priority for video and allow aperture to float with Auto ISO.

  • yes usefull tips I had already set my flicker decrease to 1/50th ,but why can I not select flicker decrease when movie camera mode/dial selected ? how critical is the shutter speed? ,just been watching discover mirrorless with will crockett and he says choose what ever shutter speed you require to gain desired effect(creative) ,I always thought safe option was double of what your frame rate is. can you find what settings you've used after the event ie like like lightroom with photos exposure ,iso ,ss ,a,metedata

  • @mpgxsvcd

    Do you know that joke in which a guy is talking to a friend and says "Some dogs are smarter than their owners!" And his friend says: "I know. I own one!". Just swap the words "dog" and "GH3" and I'm the second guy!

    I mainly shoot with the 12-35, therefore 1/(2xFl) should be allowing me to shoot at 1/50s, so that's not the case. And I shoot mainly between f2,8 and f5,6.

    I don't see the reason why you cannot shoot Auto ISO and Aperture Priority when taking pics or shooting movies. You can actually do that on (as far as I know) every camera than provides Auto ISO, including GH3. Where/When you'd want to so, is a whole different topic (specially NOT when shooting video in changing light conditions, cause the camera might decide to change the SSpeed instead of the ISO). In other words, if Panasonic would provide Auto ISO in full Manual mode, there would be no point in discussing this. (@Panasonic: please, please, please, on your next firmware update, please...).

    What surprises me is that the lowest shutter speed that you get when doing so IN EUROPE is 1/60s!

    I'll try the Flicker Decrease thingy during the weekend

    Thanks for your feedback 'n tricks!

  • Yes, I use Flicker Decrease to have some control over SS while in Aperture Priority - it will let you make use of Auto ISO. It's a good trick. I have this as one of my custom settings (C3-1). I always keep my ND filters handy to avoid stopping down aperture too far in bright settings.

  • @PCortacans

    The minimum shutter speed with Auto ISO is determined by focal length of the lens. I think it uses 1/(2 x FL) or 1/60 whichever is greater in NTSC countries.

    Just set the flicker Decrease to (1/50, 1/60, 1/100, or 1/120) to control shutter speed with Program Priority and Auto ISO. You cannot control aperture and shutter speed independently and still use Auto ISO with Panasonic cameras and video.

    Basically you can't use Aperture priority and Auto ISO for videos if you want to control shutter speed as well.

    Really, try shooting wide open in Program Priority mode with Auto ISO and with the shutter speed fixed to an appropriate setting for lights in your area. You will be surprised at how well the m4/3s lenses do wide open.

    One of my biggest pet peeves is when people stop down the aperture of m4/3s lenses WAY TOO MUCH(ie: F8.0). No m4/3s lens is good at F8.0 and most of them are just fine wide open. Sure they can be a little better stopped down 1 stop or less. However, it is not worth losing Auto ISO in those cases where you can't control the lighting.

  • By the way, going back to my "Auto-ISO=1/60s in Europe" (first post in this Topic), are you European-based guys ('n gals) experiencing the same?

    I keep wondering if it is some kind of programming bug, or is my camera partially European (I get 24fps & 25fps), partially American (Auto-ISO does not let me shoot slower than 1/60s). Any feedback?

  • Ok they all look very similar to me in curvature ,looks like portrait and standard look to have a bit more range ?

  • All what? Profiles? There's basically 4 of them.

    DPreview did some comparison between them. From the aforementioned article:

    1500 x 1896 - 323K
  • All of them?

  • @ everyone into color profiles:

    What is it that makes a spcific. profile different from another one? Color Temperature + Contrast Curve + variations of the usual 4 parameters? Wouldn't it be cool if someone would come up with an equivalence chart between them? Example: Vivid = Natural + xxx*kelvin + curve + 3,-2,1,0.

    What for? Personally, I prefer to leave the factory profiles untouched (it's always good to experiment with whatever the maker provides), and only modify my Custom profile. Let's say I'd like to match my Custom with @azz_act 's Natural -3,-1,-1,-5: which parameters should I tweak?

  • also how does one differentiate between stills and video shooting styles ,I change photo style and video style syncs to it or vice versa. cheat and set a custom dial mode to it?

  • ok ill try natural at these and note the difference ,im not trying for as you say filmic look so do i need noise reduction -5 is it like stills where I can use a custom white balance,

  • I'm using natural -3 -1 -1 -5. It's fairly flat and there's no magenta as far as I can see.

  • ok scenery and all on level 0

  • @Lumens what are your colour profile settings?

  • does any one know how this looks to me it looks like to much magenta how do I stop this from occuring in camera or with editing in fact all my videos show this pink tint i am sure the gravel on track should be greyish it looks pinkish the gh3 camera has the pana leica lens on with continuous focus lock which actually worked I think ? anyway I didn't much fancy trying to get a manual focus of a moving subject.