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GH3 tips and tricks topic
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  • @PCortacans

    The minimum shutter speed with Auto ISO is determined by focal length of the lens. I think it uses 1/(2 x FL) or 1/60 whichever is greater in NTSC countries.

    Just set the flicker Decrease to (1/50, 1/60, 1/100, or 1/120) to control shutter speed with Program Priority and Auto ISO. You cannot control aperture and shutter speed independently and still use Auto ISO with Panasonic cameras and video.

    Basically you can't use Aperture priority and Auto ISO for videos if you want to control shutter speed as well.

    Really, try shooting wide open in Program Priority mode with Auto ISO and with the shutter speed fixed to an appropriate setting for lights in your area. You will be surprised at how well the m4/3s lenses do wide open.

    One of my biggest pet peeves is when people stop down the aperture of m4/3s lenses WAY TOO MUCH(ie: F8.0). No m4/3s lens is good at F8.0 and most of them are just fine wide open. Sure they can be a little better stopped down 1 stop or less. However, it is not worth losing Auto ISO in those cases where you can't control the lighting.

  • Yes, I use Flicker Decrease to have some control over SS while in Aperture Priority - it will let you make use of Auto ISO. It's a good trick. I have this as one of my custom settings (C3-1). I always keep my ND filters handy to avoid stopping down aperture too far in bright settings.

  • @mpgxsvcd

    Do you know that joke in which a guy is talking to a friend and says "Some dogs are smarter than their owners!" And his friend says: "I know. I own one!". Just swap the words "dog" and "GH3" and I'm the second guy!

    I mainly shoot with the 12-35, therefore 1/(2xFl) should be allowing me to shoot at 1/50s, so that's not the case. And I shoot mainly between f2,8 and f5,6.

    I don't see the reason why you cannot shoot Auto ISO and Aperture Priority when taking pics or shooting movies. You can actually do that on (as far as I know) every camera than provides Auto ISO, including GH3. Where/When you'd want to so, is a whole different topic (specially NOT when shooting video in changing light conditions, cause the camera might decide to change the SSpeed instead of the ISO). In other words, if Panasonic would provide Auto ISO in full Manual mode, there would be no point in discussing this. (@Panasonic: please, please, please, on your next firmware update, please...).

    What surprises me is that the lowest shutter speed that you get when doing so IN EUROPE is 1/60s!

    I'll try the Flicker Decrease thingy during the weekend

    Thanks for your feedback 'n tricks!

  • yes usefull tips I had already set my flicker decrease to 1/50th ,but why can I not select flicker decrease when movie camera mode/dial selected ? how critical is the shutter speed? ,just been watching discover mirrorless with will crockett and he says choose what ever shutter speed you require to gain desired effect(creative) ,I always thought safe option was double of what your frame rate is. can you find what settings you've used after the event ie like like lightroom with photos exposure ,iso ,ss ,a,metedata

  • @v10tdi

    Double check that. Flicker Decrease is not available in Aperture Priority video mode(It is greyed out). In all stills mode including aperture priority it will switch to Program Priority for video and allow aperture to float with Auto ISO.

  • @Lumens

    just been watching discover mirrorless with will crockett

    There is your first mistake.

  • @Lumens The general rule is to choose a shutter speed that's roughly double your fps. The main idea there is to preserve a film-like look in terms of motion blur, as that mimics the 180 degree shutter of a film camera. Higher shutter speeds tend to produce more of a video look.

    OTOH hand, there are sometimes reasons to ignore rules of thumb. Better to have a video-like shot than an overexposed shot (though best to have your ND filters). A pet peeve of mine is people treat these rules of thumb (e.g. NEVER center your subject in the frame!!) as if they were carved in stone and delivered from on high by Moses.

  • Could you recommend me a variable nd filter .i like my subject in the center ,

  • Could you recommend me a variable nd filter .i like my subject in the center ,

    Please, use proper place for such question.

  • I recently got a 58mm Tiffen variable nd filter than I like a lot. Not usually a fan of Tiffen products but I saw a video review that ranked their ND filter highly -- even better than the Heliopan in some ways.

  • @mpgxsvcd Good point! Actually, how can you tell what the aperture is doing? I had just assumed it was fixed, but I don't see any affirmative indication of what is happening - the aperture value disappears when movie recording is activated (no indication of ISO value, either).

  • Yes I watched that video also it seems the tiffen is a good bet sharper than the others also Heliopan good for bokeh

  • Any of the aforementioned "Tips and Tricks" have changed with the new Firmware Update?

  • @v10tdi

    If you take a still during video then you can see the EXIF data. If you create a still during playback then you still get some of the data. I think ISO is the value that doesn't register if the still is created in playback. I am not certain on that though.

  • @PCortacans

    Any of the aforementioned "Tips and Tricks" have changed with the new Firmware Update?

    Nope.

    Let the endless comments of "Is the HACK ready yet?" begin.

  • hey guys, for keying, which setting and codec would be best?

  • Can you guys tell me why can't I adjust Aperture in A mode during recording video? With this trick SS and aperature are fixed to get Auto ISO working?

  • The A mode is a photo/stills mode. You need to use Creative Video Mode for manual control during video recording.

  • Hum...so you guys are saying that even if I want to output my video in 24fps if I use 60fps in the GH3 I should set the S to 1/120 ? For a better movie-look ?

  • @labalbi if you have 6 minutes and 25 second i think it could be useful to go to this link http://mirrorlesscentral.com/myth-busted-should-you-use-a-shutter-speed-thats-2x-framerate-for-video-not-so-fast/ and watch the Will Crocket tips about shoot video shutter speed.

  • Hello! I'm a GH3 user and one of those who is waiting for the GH3 hack. But my question is related to a recent issue that I've encountered. I have a black dot (perfect circle) inside the Live View Finder and I don't know where it came from. It doesn't appear on the images/videos, the sensor is clean. And it doesn't look like a dead pixel, because it is round, and bigger than the size of a pixel. I think it is dirt, but I'm not sure. In the service manual there is shown that to reach inside the VF you should open almost the whole body, and this is pretty hard work. Maybe there is another way to reach inside the VF or somehow to clean the VF at home. Please help!

  • For those of you that have used the supertone GH4 portrait style setting on the GH3, does the lack of a highlight setting (supertone uses -5, I believe) make the highlights blow out too much? Would a lower contrast value help this, or kill the midtone contrast too much?

  • @joethepro

    I've a couple posts on the "standard" GH3 thread about this. I've used up to a +3 setting on the contrast, simply as I've NEVER shot anything with a plus contrast setting with this thing ... normally a MINUS 2 so this was a huge thing to go to +3. And after doing so, have to say I was impressed enough to need to try the +5 setting.

    Using the "overtone" settings but at +3 contrast on the missus lit by a 10-foot tall/20-foot wide north window, I could easily lift the shadows in post (SpeedGrade) and ... there was just no noise at ISO 500. I'm used to a leetle bit and don't mind it as it looks fairly "organic" but it just wasn't there. Next ... although no one else in my studio sees it, I do normally note a very small amount of occasional macro-blocking in my GH3 footage. Again, no one else sees it even when I tell them what to look for so I don't worry about it. But it just wasn't there with these settings.

    Further, the over-sharpening that the Panny cams tend to do is gone ... so much so that even using a higher sharpening setting than I normally use, I could still take that up a notch or two. And last, those highlights you worry about ... those roll off so smoothly and hold detail quite well, so I need to try that +5 contrast setting. I think in moderate contrast lighting it would be very useful and that +3 I did would be more of a direct-sun setting.

    With the settings as I did them, most of the pink-plasticine skin look was gone. Still added a touch of my old secondary for GH3 skin, but way toned down. And only because really I know to look for it. It wasn't something probably ANY client would have noticed, which they would with my "normal" settings on the GH3 ... natural, contrast/sat at -2 or -3, sharpen/noise at -5. I think the slightly higher contrast would help on the skin tones, and might even go from the -2 on Hue to -3 to see what happens with a higher contrast setting. The GH3 is a bit pinker in skin from the bit of GH4 footage I've also worked.

    So ... I'm undoubtedly going to be working with a completely different "look" off the cam. And then in post, rather than raising contrast & gamma & sat a bit, gonna be lifting shadows some. Weird change, but when my footage looks SO much better, this old dude does change his "spots". I do love the way I've such control in SpeedGrade as to which section say of shadows I'm working. I think my base Look I'll save to apply to nearly all footage on the "base" primary for starters will have a lot less done to it.

    Neil

  • Thanks @rNiel, I will have to try this as well. It would be very strange to use + contrast for me as well, especially in low light situations where shadows creep in so quickly. Im sure adjustments just need to be made on a situational basis. Im so used to pulling up shadows even with - contrast in alot of situations that I'll just have to play around with it.

  • Despite just started to shoot some real world tests and settings variations, I can already say I'm switching to portrait. Shadows lift well enough, DR's holds its spit, skin's lightyeras better (less plastic), grades ok (hybrid cocktail) --- but natural grades better with direct LUT --- and much lesser noise at high ISOs. That said and as Neil points out, using anything sharper than -3 with pany lenses introduces halos and moire. With good light I also see no use for suck NR kick. The screen grabs below are a rough "let's see how it looks" thing; don't like the warmer grass introduced by the LUT but as proof of concept comparison it'll do =)

    image