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What are you guys using for audio recording with your DSLR?
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  • Fostex DC-R302. You can't beat it for the price hands down. 24 bit, records to sd, can output to camera at the same time (easier syncing and still clean output), good battery life, readout screen with all the info including levels, compact, standard shoe mounting, 3 xlr inputs, can pan mics to differnent channels, and perfectly clean preamps.

  • used Rode NT4 for GH2 - has total different charasteristics in comparison with GH3 Took out the four 10K Ohm resistants used on GH2 - full mic volume (4) setting the GH3 on volume 19 The above footage of recorders music recorded is the proof of beiing on the right track I think I rebuilded the Rode to super light

    The GH3 is compressing loud audio more severe than GH2

  • Picking up a little debate that Trevmar and I were having about gain settings an the Zoom H1... I'll put it here because it applies to digital audio recorders generally and we don't already have a topic dedicated to the Zoom H1. Be constructive. Support your statements.

    What's the goal in recording audio? It's to record your subject with acceptably low noise, I contend. And that's your only goal: everything else is secondary. I use 'noise' in the most general sense to mean any difference between the signal you're trying to capture and what ends up in your recording. I don't need to go into much detail about what noise is and how to measure it. It includes all kinds of distortion as well as white noise and quantization noise. Suffice it to say that there are different kinds of noise, and how much noise you can accept is personal and subjective. As for measuring noise, generally you are concerned about the noise level relative to the level of the signal (aka signal-to-noise ratio), since you can always adjust the volume of your recording after the fact, changing the noise and the signal levels by the same factor.

    Rules for setting the gain in a digital audio recorder, in order of priority: These account for the most significant and unacceptable sources of noise in digital audio recording.

    1. Set the gain low enough that you don't have clipping (leave adequate headroom). That's because clipping sounds nasty.
    2. Set the gain high enough that you record the signal with adequate resolution (leave adequate "footroom"). That's because too low of resolution means too much quantization noise.
    3. Set the gain to keep the recorder's internal noise acceptably low.

    How does dynamic range relate? If the signal has more dynamic range than the recorder, you won't be able to satisfy all of the above rules. Having more dynamic range can help. Also, having more dynamic range can increase the range of gain settings that satisfy all of the rules, meaning that you wouldn't need to be as careful about setting the gain. But increasing the dynamic range won't always help. If the gain is already at the maximum and you are using your most sensitive mic, having more headroom will be of no help at all. Maximizing dynamic range is not a goal. It's helpful only to the extent that it helps you record your subject with acceptably low noise.

    wipeman made some measurements of the Zoom H1's gain and internal noise for different gain settings, and calculated the equivalent input noise. http://zoomforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=15488

    This information will guide some of our choices. Gain settings lower than 20 (or 16?) use digital attenuation, which means there is basically never any reason to choose a gain setting lower than 20. Gain settings lower than 20 do not reduce the likelihood of clipping, and they always result in greater quantization noise. Gain settings of 37-100 have the lowest equivalent input noise; higher than 1-36. A gain setting of 37 maximizes the dynamic range.

    So what do you do with this information? You can minimize the recorder's internal noise by choosing a microphone with sensitivity such that a gain setting of 37 is the right gain setting for whatever subject you're trying to record. In effect, you match the dynamic range of the signal from the mic for whatever you're recording to the dynamic range of the H1 with a gain setting of 37. In practice this usually means choosing a mic with high sensitivity.

    But should you always choose a gain setting of 37? Absolutely not, and it's easy to prove with a couple of counter examples. If you set the gain to 37 and you record a loud signal that has unacceptable clipping in the recorder, and a lower gain setting in the 20-36 range would prevent the clipping, you are absolutely better off with a lower gain setting. If you set the gain to 37 and you record a quiet signal that is just a little bit louder than the internal noise, and your signal is recorded with an effective resolution of only a few bits resulting in unacceptable quantization noise, you are are absolutely better off to use a higher gain setting. A higher gain setting won't reduce the internal noise, but it will reduce the quantization noise.

    A gain setting of 37 is not magical. You should have a slight preference for a gain setting of 37 over settings of 20-36, if 37 does not result in clipping. But for quiet signals, higher gain settings are better.

  • Hey, I am currently looking into light onboard mics for either recording straight into cam or into Zoom H4N. Did anyone test one of those Que Audio mics? Even compared to a Rode Videomic pro?

  • @5thwall Sounds like it.

    By the way, do you tend to have time to do post-work on the audio or do you have to use it all as shot? If you have time for post, just use the same e-mail I gave during our testing to get in touch and I will mention a few tricks that make a big difference in the sound quality (though you may already be using most of them, there is one I am sure you have not tried yet :).

  • @thepalalias thanks, man. grabbing a 48v phantom power supply today. should help and i stay within budget.

  • @5thwall Makes sense. Best of luck getting enough work to be able to step up, though. :)

  • The level of the Zoom H! has to be set to 37 for maximum signal to noise ratio. At 37 it is superb, anywhere else it is not superb :) We wrap 1/8 sheet foam around the inserts to reduce the occasional puff of wind indoors. A cheap outdoors dead cat is available from gigwigwindscreens.com which isn't as good as a blimp, but heck, it is portable :) I use the H1 stand-alone and dub in post.

    Hmmm.. gigwigwindscreens seems to have disappeared since I bought my dead cat from them. Here is a suitable replacement, by the look of it:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110763862148 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Microphone-Wind-Shield-Deadcat-ZOOM-H1-Dead-Cat-FAST-DISPATCH-FREE-UK-POSTAGE-/260916551157

  • I'm still using the DR-680. It was nice to see that it fared well even in the Beachtek assessment, but for me the quality question was answered long ago. I've had some pro mixers listen to recordings I've done on the 680 and rave about it. I've also done a few recordings where I had to cut in sound from an H1 with sound recorded on the DR-680 and the noise floor difference is incredible. The 680 has a very low noise floor.

  • @thepalalias yeah, was looking at the Tascam DR680, but I still want to dupe sound into the GH2 if possible. I don't think that one had a line out. Thanks for the search term. It led me to this site, which was particularly helpful: http://www.avisoft.com/recordertests.htm

    Given the cost and my recent purchases, I think I'll be sticking the H4n for now unless something in that price range comes out that has low noise (or lots and lots of work to pay for it all!).

  • @5thwall In that case, my advice would be to buy a mid-level recorder ($100-300 more than a Zoom H4n) and sell the H4n to reduce the cost. If you find the right one, it will cut your noise level noticeably. I seem to remember there some that would cut the perceived noise level in half or reduce it even further.

    I am not fully up to date on the recorders released this year, but there are some great tests done by Martin Doppelbauer, including ones that use the Zoom h4n against other recorders. Search for "zoom h4n noise floor" and his site should be one of the first results.

    Remember that a 10dB difference "sounds" like doubling or cutting it in half (depending on the direction) even though it mathmatically doubles or halves at a lower dB value (6dB if I remember correctly, but I am very, very sleep deprived right now so you could look it up for better accuracy :)

  • @thepalalias Hey Per - thanks for the response. So the answer to all these questions is "I don't know." But I'm happy to learn. My goal is to get the best sounding audio I can with the mics I have. Those are: Sennheiser ME-66, Audio Technica AT4053b, and a Sennheiser G3. I generally lav and boom. The ME-66 is for outdoor and the 4053b is for indoor.

    The Zoom sounds ok, but I know it could sound better. Also, the Audio Technica mic needs 48v power, which sucks the Zoom dry in about an hour and a half. That, and dealing with the Zoom has been more of a nuisance, given batteries, extra audio (which is nice to have a backup, but still...). Also, budget is a big factor. So I'm not going to go with a high end mixer or recorder. So, just trying to see what my options are.

  • @5thwall What is your signal-to-noise/dynamic range like on the Zoom vs going to direct to camera at the moment? What would you like it to be and how much do you want to spend?

    The lowest signal to noise ratio for a given setup is just as influenced by the A/D converter and the microphone self-noise level as by the pre-amp itself.

    The lowest possible noise floor on the GH2 is somewhere around -66 to -72 dBFS (that is with nothing plugged into the jack except an empty adapter) and that is depending on certain variables. If you microphone has a self-noise level far below that, you will not get the most out of it by going straight into the GH2 or into the GH2 via any analog pre-amp, but generally that is mainly the case for certain large capsule mics and not many small capsule mics go too far below it (some do, of course).

    If you want maximum sound quality in a portable setup, look to combine a high quality digital system mic with a recorder that supports a compatible digital input (often SPDIF coaxial).

    For reference, with a Neumann KM184D feeding a digital recorder with SPDIF coax, I was usually getting 77dBFS of dynamic range (closer to 90dB if I used a 70Hz low-cut filter) on real-world 48KHz recordings (as opposed to 66-72dB of dynamic range before you add in additional pre-amp noise or mic self-noise). ANd that was in my fairly noisy house.

    Note that 16-bit audio has a dynamic range of 96dB (even that is usually reduced by dithering) while 24-bit has a dynamic range of 144dB. But a lot of gear does not come close to making the most of either.

  • I've been getting so much noise with my Zoom H4n that I'm considering going with a mixer to feed directly into my camera. I'm considering the Juicedlink RA222 or the Azden FMX-DSLR. Samys has the Azden and I can buy and try. Just wondering if anyone out there has tried one or both of these and has any recommendations? Maybe there's something else out there that I don't know about.

  • @DrDave

    Please insert empty line between paragraphs. I fixed it for now, but next time check it.

  • On location, for two channels I use a Fostex FR2LE; for 3-8 channels I use the Tascam DR680. IMHO the 680 is a no-brainer for 99 reasons. You can run the Fostex on a toy car battery which fits in the bay for more than eight hours, and it has real, not fake phantom power which believe me is a big freakin' problem with this stuff. For 8-48 channels I use RME devices, sometimes with a high end stereo pre to anchor the main pair. I tell my students if they have no gear to buy the newer zoom H2N--it has a bunch of high quality mics and you can use it on a table to interview a group with surround pickup, you can use MS, you can boom it etc. Don't consider signal to noise ratio for field work as it is irrelevant, unless you are buying junk that makes its own noise. If the device outputs 10dB of noise, and your ambient noise is 40 dB, well, that is the EOS. There's a lot of cheap junk that claims to be pro spec, which it isn't, and some cheap junk like the zooms which sound pretty good.

    Specs are not sound. The Fostex sounds expensive. The Grace Lunatec sounds really expensive. Junk sounds like junk--tinny, thin and annoying. Would people buy tinny, thin and annoying because it has 1.5 dB less noise which is 100 percent inaudible? Yes they would, which is why there are lots of tinny, thin and annoying recordings.

    Eight times out of ten I use the Sennheiser MKH 40s on booms or on stands, the other times I use the Schoeps MK21, 41, 2H or the Sennheiser MKH 80s. For voice overs or spot mics I will often throw in a ribbon mic. The MKH 40s are light, quiet, have high output and sound amazing, but they are expensive. IMHO he 40 is an underrated mic. Don't like the 60 as much, but it is very good. If you are a real pro, consider the MKH 30 which sounds amazing, but must be handled properly as it is a figure of eight.

    The Schoeps are more expensive, and the famous supercardioid (41) is a great mic and has more reach than the Sennheiser MKH 40, but it does pick up more noise from the rear, has 6 dB lower output and is slightly less fat. If you need fat. You can however use just the capsule on the Schoeps so if the mic has to be in the video it is super tiny. No way will I sell the 41, it is one if not the only one that will produce great results in an impossible situation.

    Lots of people use Oktava, they are fine, the mod improves the sound maybe 5 percent which is worth maybe 10mm of mic placement.. Haven't modded the Fostex or the 680, but people do and are happy with the improved sonics.

    Why is MS important? It works like a zoom lens, you can change the field of view in post. Once again, you can change the FOV in post, even if you screw it up in the shoot. Sometimes that makes a big difference. So the new Zoom H2N has MS, XY. two channel, four channel and surround in one small can for $150. I mean, how cool is that? Is there more coolness for $150? No, that is the current limit of the coolness. SD stuff is widely used. It is built like a tank and uses off the shelf Mr Sluggo batteries from Sony. It sounds very good, not great but very good. For location work, tank like qualities rule. I worry my 680 will fall apart. You can also buy an old laptop and use an interface, then use the 680 for a backup. For expensive stuff, that's what I do, because if you don't have a full backup of everything, well, stuff can happen that means like a reshoot and holy cow you don't want to be there for that. Everyone who has done a reshoot raise your hand. If you still have it. So all this stuff that people talk about, it really is backup grade. But for a small project, it is mobile and it rocks.

    Lastly I would say that most people put the mics in the wrong place and that is why it sounds tinny, thin and annoying. It really doesn't matter what gear you use unless you master the basic elements of mic placement. This means taking a stereo recorder in one hand, like the Fostex, one mic set to mono sent to both ears, a pair of closed (really closed) headphones on your head, and moving the mic around with the free hand until it sounds good.

    If you want to record direct to the cam, get a cam that has uncompressed audio. It won't sound great, but it will be way better than the compressed stuff in most of the DSLRS. You can also spend hours and hour trying to get the crappy compressed audio in your cam to sound better. It won't. But if it did, you still can't push the audio in post or fix the gain issues. Some of the Olly cams have 16 bit stereo, you can use them as a backup camera and a 16 bit audio recorder. But it still isn't 24 bit goodness like the Fostex or the Tascam DR 680.

  • Audio Recorder Shootout

    A Comparison and review of signal to noise tests of: Zoom H4n, Tascam DT-100 MKII, Sound Devices 702, Beachtek DXA-SLR PRO, Edirol R44, Tascam DR-680, juicedLink Riggy Micro / Assist

  • Just picked up the Tascam DR40. My initial tests are great! Coming from a DR-07, this thing has so many more features. Also had a M-Audio 2x1/4" recorder a while back, which was nothing compared to this. Not only does the new firmware allow you to adjust levels independently, but theres also a ton of other great features, such as pre-record, various types of limiters, locking xlr!, 24/96 in wav or bwf or mp3, a-b or x-y mic setting, can be powered via 5v usb cable (good for running off CCTV batteries that some users here are using.

    It's a bit larger then my other recorders. Similar to the Zoom H4 size. The menu is very easy to use and there are a lot of buttons, so nothing is ever hidden deep in a menu. Can make setting changes very quickly.

    I had the 2 year Pro warranty from Guitar Center on my DR 7, and after 18 months, one of the buttons failed. Got $163 credit, the DR40 was $200 on sale with an additional $20 off coupon from their website (think it might still be going on) so paid $2o something plus another $20 or so for another 2 year warranty. Even at MSRP ($300) this would be well worth it!

    Highly recommend it!

  • @shian what do you think of the DR-40 Its looks looks like it will do the job- Its cheap too. I like the dual recoding mode thing...Been thinking about buying one ...

    http://www.amazon.com/DR-40-4-Track-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B005NACC6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342592028&sr=8-1&keywords=tascam+dr-40

  • I use a Tascam DR-07, great quality. I also use a cheap Audio Technica Pro 70 lav mic, with an XLR to mini jack adapter when shooting my lighting tutorials, etc. It's a good mic, but the lav clip is terrible. I pretty much have to wear a hoodie to get the mic in a position where it won't make noise, unless I want to tape it to my chest every time I use it. But with a good mic in a good position, you get amazing audio on the DR-07, and it records on easy to use mp3 files. For the price I love it.

  • @brianluce He's known as Baba Desi (The 'Wizard' of Belgrave) aka Desmond Bergen. He's an eighty three year old local identity and somewhat of a 'character'. I decided to make a short documentary about him as he generates quite a bit of interest.

    He's reputed to have some kind of mystical healing powers. I can't say myself whether that is the case or not. ;>) I'll just spend some time following him around (fly-on-the-wall) and shoot him over several weeks. What the final result will be is anyone's guess.

    Where's Louis Theroux when you need him? ;>)

  • Sheesh, who the heck is that guy?

  • A Fostex FR2 LE here also but with a Sound Devices MixPre-D for the front end. The pre's in the FR2 LE are good but the limiters, metering and headphone amp in the MixPre-D are far better. I use the MixPre-D's mic level out into the GH2 which provides a good signal for syncing later in post. Plus the MixPre-D can also simultaneously record direct to a laptop via USB.

    Mics are a Rode NTG-3, Rode Pin Mic and two Oktava MK-012's. The Oktava's sound good but are extremely sensitive to handling noise and the slightest air movement. After much trial and error I was beginning to have doubts about using the Oktava's in anything other than very controlled environments.

    After scouring many forums for a solution the consensus seemed to be that a Rycote Baby ball gag and Invision shock-mount was the most effective option so that's what I finally went with and it has made a big difference.

    See attached BTS photo's of a recent shoot using a MK-012 fitted with a hyper-cardioid capsule...

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  • FR2 LE is good enough for anything, AD and preamp wise, as is DR 680. Spend more, get less :) I only use my high-end pres and converters for super quiet studios, and even then, it is largely a question of wanting to run 24-32 channels. The great advantage to SD is the battery, but the Fostex will run 8 hours on an RC battery which costs $15.

  • A pair of AKG 414, and a Marantz 661 for piano performance, classical music concerts or other demanding situations. Absolutely no complaint sound quality wise.

    Also have a pair of Pulsar II, and a Tascam DR-100, for field uses as both the mic and the recorder are smaller. The pre-amp of the DR-100 is a tiny bit noisy in very quiet situaions, but minor post production work can usually clean it up.