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GH3 Best Video Settings
  • 814 Replies sorted by
  • @maddog15 Thanks! Yeah, I did some experimenting myself but I still find myself coming back to -5. With the right series of nodes I believe the skin tones turn out more cinematic and less baked-in. Just my two cents, though :)

    Best, Matt

  • @yak and @Matthew Great skin tones. As far as the GH3 is concerned, I'm pretty much done with the -5 Golden Rule. I too get much better results in the 0 to -3 range on sub settings.

  • I never really post in this topic, but I check it nearly every day. This is a short (and completely pointless) video that was shot in 18 minutes, haha. Initially I was supposed to shoot some dancing in the subway, but my actress had time restrictions so I only had 15-20 minutes to shoot her walking around and film whatever we saw. While I'm not happy with how rushed it was and the actual material that I shot, I am pretty pleased with the final image. I shot this with a GH3, SLR Magic 12mm T/1.6, and Glidecam HD 2000. Picture profile was Natural with all settings at -5. I then graded in DaVinci Resolve 10 LITE, adding a light unsharp mask, @yak's GH3 skin tone V3 LUT, the Vision Color OSIRIS M31 Rec 709 LUT, Film Convert, and then finally a slight desaturation adjustment on the final node. Any feedback is welcome! Enjoy :)

    • Matt

    P.S. YouTube compression killed the grain (horribly - as usual :/)

  • Nice Skin, I think all 0 gives a nice result, I´ll try. Even with sat -3 I start to see some kind of plastic faces

  • Here is a short video made with old footage of a job I shot @ Natural 0 Contrast graded.

    I like the skin tones...

  • What is the native (best) ISO for this camera considering I can add as much light as I want? Go to answer is 200 but is it really? Anyone tested this.

  • @CarlosMorillo That's exactly how I white balance (video on page 27) and I don't have any problem with magenta cast.

  • GH3, 14-42 kit lens, 50mm canon FD f1.4 with RJ Lens Turbo

    Natural Nr and Sharp -5 rest at 0

    Graded with filmlooks

  • You guys do realize that the GH3 in the WB menu has adjustments not only for the color temp but also adjustments for the green/mangenta balance. You should be able to get a fairly neutral image right out of the GH3. Depending on your lighting situation you should be able to get rid of any false green or magenta casts.

  • @SuperSet no, I'm just not trying to shoot flat: lens used is relatively cheap (but wonderful in my opinion) Fujinon 50mm @1.4. Don't know if it matters, but I didn't have a grey card with me, so I dialed manually the temperature (I think it was 3700K or 3400K) because there was a light with a bank lighting the subject and we estimated it should have been around that temperature: if I look at the shirt, it was grey but it seems a bit on the yellow side, so maybe the temperature was a bit offset. Could it be that by setting the WB a bit too warm I somehow counterbalanced the magenta cast of the GH3?

  • @flablo That does look great. I'm guessing that you're not using YAK's LUT?

  • @OBGene I meant I left the NR at 0 because I haven't purchased a noise reduction filter like neat video or Red Giant's Magic Bullet Denoiser II. For the reason that I shoot most of my video at ISO 200 and I don't think I'll see a dramatic benefit. If someone can show me otherwise, I'll bite the bullet :) I suppose I should try shooting with NR turned down a bit and see if I get more detail without any visible increase in noise. Perhaps this weekend...

  • so why not 'touch the NR' ?

  • what NR software?

  • @Yak Really like the colors you got with Filmconvert. I just wish it wasn't so expensive!

    I just purchased a set of Tiffen ND filters and had a chance to try them out over the weekend. I shot this clip while waiting for the bus with friends. I used the GH3 with the Vario 35-100mm f/2.8 wide open for all the tight shots, a couple were made with the GM1 and Vario 12-35, also with ND filters. Incidentally, I uploaded the video to YouTube using the X264 encoder, which helps keep colors from looking washed out. Settings: 24p, 50Mbps, Standard profile. Contrast, Sharpness and Saturation just a couple notches down from factory settings. I don't touch NR since I haven't picked up NR software yet.

  • Jeah @flablo and @maddog15 - when I see those skin tones flablo postet, it looks really good. For me it looks like going with -5 in NR and -5 in Sharpness is the "must-have". Other Settings like Satuation etc is a "believer". Until now I went with -3 to -4 on contrast and satuation...But I think its very situational which settings are the best / the right. Its important to have the right light. If you watch my video here:

    you can see 4 different light situations...so you get another skin tone with the same settings.

  • @flablo Man.... great skin.

  • @rezyserzycia Nice work here. Good grading and color choice. Good cuts - appropriately timed. Music... very thoughtful. Kept my mind wondering what I'd see next. One strange jump cut in the making coffee close up but other than that... Very nice work. Thanks for sharing it.

    What application did you do your color adjustments?

  • my first work with gh3. Everything at -5 and 50mbps mov.

  • Thanks @ maddog15 and rNeil! I understand. So better film in 50 mbps now... ;)

  • Natural with settings at 0 except Sharpness and NR at -5, MOV (NOT All-I). WB at 3400K. Straight out of the camera footage (overblown background is intentional). I'm VERY pleased with colors and skin tones

    syncs Replaced.Immagine001.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 532K
    syncs Replaced.Immagine002.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 512K
  • @Yak - Your latest LUT seems to REALLY lift the shadows black level. Using resolve, it was capped at something like 16-20, I didnt check exactly. I couldnt get it to drop back down, it was just capped there. Maybe do your shadow adjustments, but keep the black level at 0.

  • @ravensith ...

    maddog15 gave a good summary of how to find it ... and yes, it's there. Just looking at your footage on the camera's LCD isn't going to show it, but get it up on the "big screen" of a decent size monitor or TV and compare directly two scenes at 50Mbps and ALL-I ... and sadly, the ALL-I comes in second. Fairly close, but ... second. A bit more noise, and especially in moving items (like the grass blades) a little less detail.

    I was SO disappointed to find this after getting my nifty new cam. Still, this thing shooting 50Mbps is a dang good rig. As mentioned by maddog, it just doesn't have the hardware/software capability to move that much bandwidth and keep it "hot". In my testing, the higher the ISO the more pronounced the difference. And yea ... like a lot of the other guys here, I tested for it. Desperately trying to disprove it, I might add. Well, after proving myself wrong ... I adapted mentally to the disappointment by realizing my files were going to be a bit smaller. Fewer hard-drive purchases!

    Now ... as it looks like I might be able to acquire a GH4 in mid-late summer ... hope hope ... I may need to start looking for a cheap-to-purchase hard-drive factory yet ... sigh ...

  • @ravensith If you're shooting say... An ISO of 200 with plenty of light the noise difference between 50Mbps Inter-frame and 72Mbps Intr-aframe is more subtle. What was your subject for the 10 second test? Try a scene with these parameters: • Scene with some movement and detail. Like a bush with grass and a bit wind providing movement. • Choose a lighting scenerio where you need an ISO of say 800 to get the light meter to balance at 0. (The higher the ISO the more noise you'll get regardless of the setting. Same with any camera.) • Turn noise reduction down to -5 in camera.

    All Intra and IPB Inter-frame are very different in the way the frames are produced when recording. (Google the two for a detailed explanation.) To get superior All-I footage the camera really needs to be shooting at 100Mbps or more. GH3 can't do this of course. Eg: My GH2 hacked with Moon T5 (that's an All-Intra 150 Mbps hack) kicks my GH3s butt with its 72Mpbs setting. There's no comparison. In short: All Intra takes completely separate images for ever frame so it needs more info to produce a superior quality shot. IPB Interframe samples the frames surrounding the current frame and only makes a "change" to the image where there's movement or a "change" in the image.

    Hope this makes some kind of sense. Your question is a good one for sure though. We've all went through the "72 All-I or 50 IPB" saga.

    Good luck!