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GH2 Digital Sharpening removable with hack?
  • 134 Replies sorted by
  • No, I noticed it first in 2D (my real-world grabs are 2D). But I get it, it's no big deal for you - many of us disagree. Let's move on.
  • Why stop at sharpness only? Occupy Panasonic. Then demand -3,-3,-3 -3 film mode settings :)
  • _gl I appaud your excellent tests, but we are looking at 400% here at the shoreline frame. I'm not saying you can't see it at 100%, but with no way to "completely" shut it off, we'll never be exactly 100% confident.

    The shot at 400% shoreline frame is so blown up you can see macroblocks everywhere so I would expect them to be even more obvious at contrast edge. But you can definately see the halo at 400% Curious, what hack setting (if any) was the shoreline frame?
  • @proaudio4, to me it's obvious even on the 1080p grabs: It's not just the shoreline, but the bright water reflection edges are far too hard (especially in the center). You can see in the third shot that it puts a dark halo around those. That makes highlights look digital as they loose their smooth natural rolloff. Actually the whole image looks 'crunchy' and brittle to me.

    IIRC on those shots I was experimenting with the simple PTools bitrate adjustment @ ~42mbs (I now use Chris' settings which rock), so that might explain the macro blocks. It's also a difficult scene due to the high contrast. But the footage looks like crap to me because of the sharpening.

    I think @LPowell is right, it's worse in the whole vertical center section of the frame, the frame edges are less affected. Lenses can be softer in the corners anyway. But the correction softens the edges more too as they are the most distorted - so the sharpening is too much for the center.

    Also Panny's sharpening is strange, it doesn't do much to soft edges, but it massively exaggerates already sharp edges.
  • I did a small test with the Oly 14-35mm F2.0 and a window frame (outside was bright blue sky).

    with tape = electronics disabled by tape

    Looks like as soon as the camera sees a (m)4/3 lens, it applys some sharpening/contrast - even when there is no distortion correction going on.

    The second picture shows how that process eats up details and also changes the colours a bit - pretty stupid, as the 14-35 dosn't need any corrections.

    Maybe i will buy one of this cheap m4/3-4/3 adapters ( ) and add a small switch to disable the electronical connection when everything is set. What happens to the camera when the lens gets detached without using the lens-release-button?

    Edit: Just realised that I used still images. So this "corrections" are even applyed to still images.

    1100 x 618 - 353K
    1100 x 616 - 277K
  • @_gl I just ordered my first, non-legacy lens - a Panasonic 14mm pancake. Please share your interim preferred shooting settings with the rest of us owners. (I'm a halo-hater too)

  • @Roberto, I still shoot with the 14mm. I just have sharpening & contrast on -2. I don't know how much it helps with this, I just generally want more flexibility in post. In a way the in-cam sharpening is not too bad for my 3D work, as both images get transformed in post (to align them) which softens them a bit anyway - but I'd still prefer to disable it completely.

    Has anyone tried selectively covering the contacts? Maybe there is a way to keep AF but defeat correction/sharpening.

    What happens to the camera when the lens gets detached without using the lens-release-button?

    @Psyco, good question. Probably the same as removing it, I suspect the release switch is purely mechanical with no electronic signal.

  • You can try the new matrixes from Driftwood, Dark Matter and Sedna will be less sharp when you set sharpness to -2 than stock afaik. This should help a bit.

  • I have the panny/leica 25mm. While I love sharp lenses, I do see an increase in the stacatto effect. After comparing it with the voightlander, which is softer, it's clearly different. I've had good luck with 1/40 and even 1/30 shutters. But it feels weird to use those speeds. Digital is different. I ordered a panny 14 cheapo to try with my la7200 anamorphic, (which I'm going to sell soon) My guess is that the 14's electronic coupling with the gh2 might try to correct the anamorphic attachment's abberations, if there are any.