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Driftwood VY Canis Majoris: This thread will now be integrated into 'Driftwood Series 6 Settings'
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  • @MisterBink Yes just play with shutter speed until u get flicker less footage.then ya I found it . night footage is equal to pm footage in streampaser both of them has similar peaks Iframes mostly over 700 but falls below 800. average iframe peak for all canis patches is between 650 to 800 I feel.mysteron is a good patch for smooth filmic look soft in lights. I loved it once I used it in a city center mall shoot out. Canis pm looks a little soft which makes us think visibly its getting less details. But technically the fact falls beyond vision. All canis majoris patches does the same other than its luma coma adjustments. tele ex mode always grabs noise over iso 400 itself. I use them very rare tried once in my zoo shoot out which actually spoiled the footage. I realized it should be used only if the iso is below 400. extele has nothing to do with flickers it's pal ntsc modes and shutter speed which creates these. Try it out pal 1/25 to 1/100 NTSC 1/25 to 1/100 see what u get. I do this everytime when I get flicks.

  • @rajamalik. I have noticed you have done this a few times so I just wanted to correct it. It is chroma not coma. I hope your footage won't end up in coma. Cheers

  • @rajamalik - I bow to your knowledge sir :) Which (between PAL and NTSC) usually gets less flickering in your experience? I only tend to shoot at 24p mode

  • @Zeven13 people say tommorow as tmrw ,..as soon as possible as ASAP.,, just like that chroma to coma,...sht hnd u can read it rite ??? see spelling can be anything but it should make people understand what you are trying to say. You understood that its chroma from that coma so it means I delivered it rite.,,, ;)

  • @MisterBink I learned this from sir driftwood he taught me how to overcome flicks from indoor lighting conditions. Pal 1/25 1/50 helped a lot. But it differs. Once I got less flicks from LCD monitor when I used NTSC. try if none of these helps change light add more light or replace existing light in the room. Halogen and tube lights gives more flickers than others.change and try.for me it was mostly with tube lights and ceiling serial halogens. I never got single flick with a tungsten. may be it also depends on its power try high power lights over 60w. halogens and tubes are below 40w electric power savers offcourse.

  • @misterbink @rajamalik Yes, since you can adjust shutter while shooting, try modifying the shutter, narrating what setting you have it at, modifying again, narrating, etc. during the same clip and then reviewing it to find the one that works the best for your shot, if flicker is a big issue.

    I was watching "Other Guys" the other day. Big-budget action comedy, but in one of the scenes you can see the light flicker on the actors as they exit a ploice office and go into the main police common area - it just kept flickering until the shot ended. It may have been done on purpose but it was distracting to me and reminded me that is not only an issue with less expensive equipmment.

  • @thepalalias oh my do you mean even red epic does the same??? I never knew that even costly eqip will do. I thought it would be only with dslr,camcorders and handycams.

  • @rajamalik The difference with a camera like the Scarlet of Epic (and this is a very big deal) is that you can set the shutter VERY exactly. The disadvantage of the GH2 is that you can only adjust the shutter by 1/3 stops. With an epic you can use all sorts of custom shutter speeds, or you can define it in degrees so that the shutter stays a certain ratio vs your frame rate.

    But what the movie showed is that if you have two lighting sources in the same shot that are not synced properly, you can still get issues because you may not be able to sync the shutter to work with both. Now like I said, they may have created the effect on purpose (trying to make it look like that department could not afford better lights, etc.) but it was distracting to me as a viewer since it idd not happen often in the film.

  • @thepalalias sometimes it's just an oversight. If you are flying through production, and you happen to have replaced all the flos with kinos, except in one little area, and are shooting 180 instead of 144, it'll happen. I've been there, and sometimes you have a director or producer that is like, "Fuck it, we're not going back and shooting it again" or "We don't have time for you to change the setting, and I'm afraid it won't match, and we're in overtime in 10 minutes...so fuck it."

  • @shian That could be it - it just seems silly to spend so muc money on getting the stunts to be so over the top and then not take the time to address distracting things like that. Of course the biggest improvement to that movie could have been made in the script, despite a few rather amusing scenes. :)

  • @rajamalik @shian @thepalalias - I know the 'shutter flicker' of which you speak, but I'm talking about blueish streaks that flicker in grey tones and shadows. Here's an interesting discovery: Yesterday while playing with the shutter and exposures, I was shooting in EXTele, and it was really prominent in the shadows. You really can't miss it and the only thing that gets rid of it is Neat Video. Now when I switched EXTele off, it completely disappeared. The picture was perfect once more, no flicker, no distortion, just the great image of Orion 4B and Mysteron that I was using at the time. The effect is really quite an ugly sight to see, it looks like blue refresh lines flickering as the sensor refreshes, but again, a high contrast shot revealed this only to be in the shadows and in neutral spots like greys and such. I haven't seen anyone post on this sort of noise yet, has anyone else seen it? It's not affected by shutter speed at all...

  • @rajamalik @shian @thepalalias - Thanks for your feedback btw the way! I really appreciate your time to lend advice! Where are my manors...

  • @MisterBink I think I know what you are talking about. It is true, it has nothing to do with shutter speed. Check snapshot from VLC. Shot with Standard -2-1-2-2, CM Night, Voigtländer 25mm wide open. EXT Mode, ISO somewhere between 200 and 400 (I think). Do you mean those lines? If you look closely you can see them. They also flicker vertically in the original clip.

    vlcsnap-2012-06-29-15h45m40s141.png
    1920 x 1080 - 2M
  • @ driftwood, Hi, I'm new in this GH2 world. After testing various settings which are amazing, I noticed that when I film with Movie mode, the picture gets a bit blurry, even with the camera fixed on a person. This does not happen for example in the Auto, P, M, or S mode. Tested with different Exposure Mode, Exposure and Sensitivity but the problem persists. What am I doing wrong?

  • ooh, again lost overview.. Would anyboy be so kind and explain to me what's the difference between CM SkinTone Soft and CM SkinTone Soft Crossfire? Thanks in advance.

  • @MisterBink its the EXTelemode and the camera itself. Nothing to do with patches. Stay away from it in lower light scenes(underexposed is the worst offender in EXT) if you do not want to see it. In my experience EXTele mode gives usable clean results in bright daylight with everything exposed correctly and I am quite sure there are posts about it on PV ; ) I have found that I can save some of this kind of footage adding a slight motion blur, even at very minimum it reduces the crazy noise lines (I tried on static scene so the blur is not so obvious).

  • @Tobsen - Yep, that's it. But it's even more vile than shutter flicker... @luxis - Thank you for the advice, will search more extensively for other related posts. I used Neat Video and it took it away beautifully so that comes highly recommended. I do love some grain though, so Neat Video also removes that and it's a bit of a pain, but will just have to play around with it a bit more. Thank you to all who contributed to this topic, @rajmalik, thanks for your help! And thanks @Driftwood for encouraging us all to push further and harder into the world of filmmaking - Drew on DrewNetwork applauded you and said (basically said) that it's because of you that we can go on and do grand things with these cameras and patches, and he's right, it's absolutely true. Thanks to all. Will be posting some stuff very soon, have some short films I am planning to produce and of course they'll be dedicated to this community.

  • @rajamalik @Zaven13 - I think Zaven13's point is that "coma" is an existing word with a primary definition ("a person in a state of unconsciousness"), whereas "asap" and "tmrw" are ONLY abbreviations or acronyms of other (English) words or phrases.

    For those of us where English is not our first language, "coma" would be immediately confusing, especially for non-techie newbies who may not have heard of "chroma" before.

    PS. The term "chroma" is already an abbreviation of "chrominance". PPS. In science articles/papers, chroma/chrominance is often referred to as "C".

  • @adamzmith @rajamalik @zaven13 And let us not forget that coma also refers to "blob of light" effect you get when shooting with most fast aperture lenses wide open at night when pointed at light sources. So while I knew what you meant this time @rajamalik, it could easily get confusing. :)

    @misterbink I had not watched your footage - I was commenting on the approach that had been described for checking shutter issues. As far as the problem you are having, it sounds similar to what I have often described as "shadow flicker" which I have issues with at times, at any shutter speed and in natural light. More importantly, I have issues with it in both full sensor and EX modes. If you are only getting it in EX mode, then that is good, but for me - I usually have to change the exposure level to make it disappear.

    I have found it to be an unpredictable phenomenon and that I have to really over or under expose to make it go away - usually over, if I remember correctly. Now once again, not watching the videos because I am checking this on an older mobile (because it has a fast enough keyboard for me to spend times on forums like this). I seem to remember last time I checked, I was at least 6 times faster on it than on an iPhone and a lot faster than on a Droid 1 too.

  • @thepalalias it was just shortform mistake instead of typing chroma I typed coma. How many of us chasing this. leave it friends it isn't my language grade test. @adamzmith I never knew that u r an English professor. Let's discuss what we have to discuss here. please :(

  • @rajamalik I did not meant to rag on you friend. :) Sorry if it came off that way - I just meant that I did not think we should turn it into an abbreviation for that. If it was just a mistake, then all I can say is that I make many mistakes every day in my posts in terms of spelling errors and I do not want to make people feel bad about them.

    Usually I only try to address misunderstandings, so sorry about that.

  • http://www.pinkbike.com/video/262573/

    Shot on daypm for a video contest

    20mm 1.7 and nikon 50mm 1.8

    We've made it to the top20 :)

  • @thepalalias - That's exactly it... Here's some advice (if one could call it that), the other day, I walked around my place of work purposefully trying to get high contrast shots in ExTele and without, to see the results. I walked into a bakery and got a shot of a cake on a shelf, the cake lit perfectly, and the space next to it in complete shadow, so naturally I got this "shadow flicker". I dropped the footage into after effects and played with it to see what I could do, and the simple Brightness and Contrast plugin did the trick. Crushing the underexposed are makes the flicker unnoticable and the contrast of the shot is reminiscent of imagery from films like Magnolia and Super 8. Overall, you gotta light your stuff properly, and be prepared for some serious contrast.

  • @mrttt Wicked footage! Excellent mini insight docu. Marve! Thanks for showing us.

  • @mrttt Awesome stuff there!

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