@onionbrain Great flower shots. What lense did you use to shoot that stuff with?

Sedna AQ1 24H

Canon 24-105L F4

Sorry for the Poor Quality bad converting

@kihlian, true enough, neutral is probably a good place to start, but whats 'neutral' ? ;). Oddly enough I was looking at some shots I took with Orion 4b today, (still attached taken from the raw file). This was shot on an overcast day with a tweaked WB, smooth profile 0,0,-2,-2 with an old Auto Paragon 28mm, and it looks like its been processed with Magic Bullet Mojo.

@rajamalik Its a personal taste, and personal experimentation thing. Try things out and see what you like best. There is no 'make it look good' button or settings and every project/shot is different. When you've shot more and got experience then you'll change the in camera profile settings based on the shot, and what you think you'll do, or need to do, with it in post.

See, I'd never use nostalgia, don't want to deal with the yellow tint, nor the noise. I'd very rarely use cinema either. Also, I will often tweak the contrast based on each shot because I know thru experience that some shots will be easier to deal with in post with a little nudge (things can be too flat sometimes, particularly with the range of this camera). I will also, dependent on lens, and hack matrix, alter the sharpness setting too. But thats just me, it is not a set of rules, its not even advice, its definitely not a series of recommendations. Experiment, find out what works for you. Finding out what works for you is a mixture of methodical aproaches, gut instinct approaches and what you're prepared to do. If you want to shoot with a single profile, and settings all at -2 then thats fine. For me, its better to try and get close to what you want before you go to working with the footage with post tools. I also believe strongly that taking that approach will give you a better feel for the camera, whichever hack your using, your glass, and the effect of the settings.

As @driftwood put it, have confidence in yourself.

Well, might be I post to the wrong topic, but too much test video we watch... All new patches need editing and it takes some time.

It was "old" cbrandin 66 patch without spanning on SDHC at 24L(44Mb/s)

20mm Lumix 1.7 Variable ND 1/50 shutter Standard -2-2-2-2 Sedna A AQ1

My Transcend 16gig card worked fine, played back in camera too. I didn't try any 720p settings.

Throughout the video I'm wiping back and forth between a color saturated version and the ungraded file out of the camera. At the time I thought the grade was really drastic but on vimeo it appears very subtle.

The Panasonic lens is normally very sharp but I like how the Sedna patch really tones that down, I'll definitely have to turn sharpening up with my Nikon lens.

@jamesgh2. I have used Sandisk Extreme 32GB 30mbs class 10 with Sedna A Q20 for 24p settings and it works fine. It works in ETC mode also. 1080i60 and 720p60 however, have write errors.

Yes, If someone feels it falls short in the details, please post examples that support it.

Stick to the job in hand. Its difficult with only one GH2, I for good reason use 4 and its easier to mix up settings, but Im not suggesting you go out and buy more cams. With one cam, take two or three settings with you on a shoot and explain to the client why youre swapping settings!

I don't promote any of my L patches, FH, or H in my high quality settings Orion, Sedna, etc... I have specific patched settings for lower bitrate coming off a lowered frame limit. SMBU v2, Pictoris, Cluster v1 and quite a few other earlier patches have been made by me to tackle long duration and spanning with good looking results.

I reiterate. Stock settings are pretty darn good. cbrandin, lpowell, bkmwcd, RalphB, towi and others' settings are also excellent. Again, whatever floats YOUR boat, I suggest use it.

A lot of the queries about quality stem from the fact that a lot of people are used to AQ4 (Auto Quantiser 4) which promotes high bitrate. Indeed, this is a great feature and works by trying out Q on the fly. But its not the Be all and end all. I believe its NOT perfect. Whole lines of macroblocks in the picture can be 'misinterpreted' next to a correctly quantised raster line. Then on another time filming the same subject its fine and other artefacts happen elsewhere. Its very hard to predict whats going to happen!

However, tuned matrices like Sedna can help and are designed in such a way to handle frequencies and offer closer matching quality overall for a 'desired' setting. We're trying to wrestle a bit of control back here!

Where in the past you might get razor sharpeness in one area, you could actually get a very blurry Q 'decision' in other areas of the picture. Some matrices work well with AQ4 because the matrix design is employs average use of low pass filtering compared to some of the newer higher settings shown in Sedna. Things can go wrong when you're pushing it with AQ on top of your matrix. Hence, from now on, why I design from a starting point of IQ/Q = 20 (Q20) and push it from there.

In the end though a lot of other factors come into play and can blind your judgement. For instance, are you correctly exposed? Has the lighting changed? f stop, shutter, picture profile, etc... etc...

pls delete

Orion 4b test:

Orion 4b small prj.:

Sedna Q20 test:

@driftwood - thank you for all your hard work and inspiration!

Is there anyone using Sedna Q20 with a Sandisk 30mb/sec Class 10? Should I even try?

Could I lower the bitrate to 1/2 and still get good quality or am I asking for a crash? Thanks!