I have a Sankor 16c Anamorphic and based on the videos I've seen of the CineMorph, I'll stick with the Sankor. It's a bummer it vignettes at anything under 85mm, but it gives a more genuine Anamorphic look in my opinion.

I did a quick test with the Sankor here. It's not much, but it's a little something:


The anamorphic was mounted to a Canon 18-135mm kit lens I got with the 60D via VidAtlantic clamp. I have since bought a Helios 44m to use with the Sankor, as I heard it was a good, cheap prime to use. And it's definitely a great lens to use both with the Sankor and without, I have had great results for a lens that only cost me about $40!

hahaha super!
i just love not having to pay to play with this things!

hahah sorry i dont have a wide angle, sorry :p

hahah here it is a quick test of your idea, it does work
, but i´m lazy, so my oval ain´t that ovalistic

this test was made with cardboard on a canon fd to m/43 adapter with a canond fd 50mm f1.4 attached

(and is a shot of the light reflection on a window with water fog)

ps, the flares in the nightshots are not colored, because i forgot to do the white balance, so they were taken with the day white balance

@B3Guy you are a genius!
i made what you said and here are the results!
bravo!



my only addition was making it for a third party Cokin P filter holder (USD 4 on ebay) to make the things easier, and also to be able to rotate the DIY anamorphic flare filter
it cost me nothing, because i already have all the needed things (:
thank you!

Also a good thing is, as it doesn´t use glass, it doesn´t reduce the f stops as the cinemorph does

The fishing line is spaced by 0.5 cm, because that is the spacing that i find works better from f1.4 to f5.6, on a canon fd 50mm 1.4;
On the lumix vario 14-140 did not work properly.
(i didnt do the oval, because i didnt want the oval, but it would certainly work)

Greetings from Chile!

There is also another cheap anamorphic adapter from Soligor that works quite ok with the GH-cams and old glas.

Here is a short test I made in winter:

(Camera shake is due to a cheap trypod and me shivering quite a bit;-)
You can finde it from time to time on ebay, as Soligor is not producing it any more.

I for one would go for a 4x4 filter, especially if it could go wider than the current cinemorph. (try to figure a way to get blue flares. I made my own cinemorph with an old lens cap, some patient hole shaping and some thick fishing line. I colored the line with a dark blue sharpie and as I said before, it turned my flares blue. I may go to the fishing store sometime and see if there is some thick, naturally blue fishing line I could try out.)

@vidatlantic I know you've probably been asked this in the past but: is there something in the works to get the cinemorph filter to work with normal-wide range focal length lenses? That would be a big deal if you could get that to work.

Just added this over at HV20 forum regarding some details about the CineMoprh filter....

The CineMorph filter is a combination of 3 ideas rolled in to 1. The Bokeh shaper element, the streak element and a rotating filter frame.

You can make your own bokeh shape cutout (minus the streak-flare), but as you begin to experiment with shaping, if the cut is not precise and perfect, every little crooked cut will easily show up in the image. We have these parts all shaped by computer and then machine cut. Also, I'm not sure how you can focus your lens with that design. If you can pull focus, the bokeh cutout may also spin.

Other streak filters, start at about $300 and way up (we saw some recently for $1200) and they don't have the bokeh shape element. Our rotating CineMorph filter is $150, but as we're able to make and purchase the materials cheaper in the coming weeks and cut down the assembly time, we're going to announce a new lower price on these very soon.

Please remember too, that these were not around a year ago and we made these out of necessity for our own productions to use along side with real anamorphic lenses, when we had to have quick focus pulling or quick run n gun style shooting. When edited together, it's difficult to tell the difference between the 2 types of footage.

One thing that has yet to be done in post along with live action, is vertically stretched bokeh to mimic real anamorphic lens characteristics. Some would even argue that post-production lens flares aren't even done all that well.

A lot of people, including ourselves have been using the filter on its own without anamorphic lenses, and we're happy to see that happening too. We've already catered to a lot of music video and tv commercial directors and DPs, as well as even a few network and primetime shows. And if you try to mount black cine foil or construction paper with rubber bands or tape, you can not focus your lens, not to mention looking a bit unprofessional. So for $150 (at this time) we feel its a fair price point for something that looks professional (without rubberbands and tape) and gets the effect done quickly.

I hope this was helpful. Let me know if you have other questions….

I have a lomo square front. As 'cinema' as it gets. I personally don't like the LA7200, bit 'fake' to me, but anamorphics in general really give you a very nice, 'deep' cinematic look. Don't quite know how to describe it.

@feha

the 25mm 0.95 is not the best because it is a fast len's the 14-140 would be the best bet.. trying to gain focus with a +1 diopter @ .95 is out of the question

@plasmasmp
thanks a lot,
now i think about two options
Century Precision Optics 1.33x vs LA7200

Also for LA7200 aperture at 4 I will loose shallow DOF ?