@nomad says:

I was once asked to fix a daylight shot of dancers that was shot with 1/100 by mistake and it was a nightmare of masking

As it happens, I often use a fast shutter specifically to obtain stills later. As was said in other threads, you cannot keep up a burst mode for half an hour (and why would you want to sort through all those stills), whereas a well-chosen grab from a 60fps/250+ video can produce a winner shot of dance, sport - and even just that right smile!

Naturally, I have run these videos at normal speed. Fast movement becomes ridiculous; at 24fps/200 (stage lighting can be low), sometimes dancer's step happens between frames and never appears within a frame.

At 1/50, your footage will indeed appear more "jerky" -- but it'll also exactly match the motion of film shot at 25fps on a movie camera with a 180-degree shutter.

At 1/25, the motion will be substantially more blurred, and not film-like. 1/50 gives you the look and motion rendition of film.

Barry Green, in response to the question, "why is it not better to film 1/25th of a second at 25p?" (about a slower shutter speed but all I could find on DVinfo)

http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/canon-xl-gl-series-dv-camcorders/39506-differences-between-shutter-fps.html

This discussion should split in at least 3,

• "How I like my motion blur"

• "HELP! Why do I have those dark lines going in and out of my image??"

• "Things you should never ask on a film set"

@Rambo That's news to me! Math tricked me and told me 1/60 would be 360 degree shutter, but I admit my experience with 60p and it's conventions is quite low.

Either way, I just got schooled by a video beach bum! =)

And I mean that in the most jealous way possible. I'm probably in the warmest climate in Canada right now but the sun is still down by 4:45pm this time of year. Thanks for the virtual sunshine!

btw thinking about it i would very much prefer to have control in post over the motion blur (to use it just like in animation, to increase the emotional intention of a movement), but as of right now i believe there is simply no workflow that is useful, just plain painful and only after tons of work one can get more expression out of the blur

@vicharris I always shoot with higher shutter speeds and i've seemed to never have a problem with any of my footage looking like soap opera from my experiences. If anything they seem more filmic to me. I avoid 1/50 or anything lower cause I feel they look like cheap video or soap opera stuff to me, but its all personal preference everybody sees things differently.

@DeShonDixon Here's where personal taste and styles differ. I personally can't stand when there's barely any blur. Looks like cheap video or soap opera stuff and I can see it easily. Makes me click X right away if it's narrative work. And as the shutter goes for the GH2, I've never shot with 1/50th as I still think it looks like crap. I shoot with 1/40 or even 1/30 if I can get away with it and there's zero or little movement.

@Vicharris Odd, I thought 1/120 was what you used for 60p too.

Check any post by Barry Green on DVinfo on the subject, he recommends 1/60 for 60p for regular capture or 1/120 if slowmo is desired in post. :-)

Odd, I thought 1/120 was what you used for 60p too.

@Rambo Isn't that still (almost) a 180 degree shutter since you were shooting at 60p, which would give you the standard 'natural' motion blur? I think what the OP was talking about is the usage of shutter to control exposure, rather than ND, which would mean varying shutter speeds throughout a shoot and real time playback speeds. And that's what people are having a hard time accepting as an approach. Your approach, on the other hand, is more conventional. Very nice stuff, but the way. Well captured and presented!

Yes, let's see the footage. I want to see how to get the jerks out of a shot where the shutter isn't open long enough to get all the movement in, how the codec manages to compress all those sharp frames and how the work in post is able to interpolate objects into the missing positions which never got recorded.

When I shot with Lumix 7-14 at day light, I prefer set fast shutter instead close aperture to 16-22, because MFT lenses not sharp at very closed aperture. That lens can't attach filter in front. Otherwise, wide angle make picture with less motion, and the problem with motion blur not really visible. After S 1/100 all shutter numbers look the same, there is not really difference from 1/100 to 1/2000, so if you have no time for instant shot, and you know that the scene will be with restrained motion of objects, you can use highspeed shutter, but if you see any electric lights in frame, maximum possible shutter can be only 1/100 at 50Hz countries and 1/120 at 60Hz of electricity.

For serious projects I try to avoid it and film at 1/50 with filters, of cause.

Actually GH2, as well as all the low and middle class camcorders, gives unnatural motion blur no matter what shutter speed is choosen, i.e. it's very far from the motion blur of the cinema cameras and movie productions. I've tried ReelSmart Motion Blur plug-in which in my opinion is the best popular for that purpose. If you adjust its settings right, then the footage becomes completely different, very close to the feel of the movie productions. Even if it's not graded. A really big positive difference!!! The only inconvenience is that this plug-in takes a lot of time for processing... very slow.