What do you mean 'the Ricoh pin' ? and why do I have to remove it?
I just bought one of these on eBay and also bought a Pentax PK-M43 adapter. I thought with an adapter it would just work....??
I just bought one of these on eBay and also bought a Pentax PK-M43 adapter. I thought with an adapter it would just work....??
You need to remove it if you plan to use in on Pentax. If not, it does not matter.
Groovy! Thanks!
The Minolta MD 28-mm f/2.8 7/7. There are two similar versions of this lens, a 7/7 and a 5/5. The 7/7 is the better one, but you can only tell the difference by carefully inspecting the front element. Few people know this or bother to check, so it sells for next to nothing on eBay. http://home.kpn.nl/dielpeet/minolta/minolta-28mm-lenses.htm
Yes, 28-mm f/2.8 lenses are common and not terribly expensive, but most of them don't perform well or are more expensive than this one. This one is great even wide open, with good contrast and low flare. It was introduced in 1981 in the third revision of the MD line, so the coatings are good even by modern standards.
There are many different versions of the Minolta lenses, not all quite hidden gems, but with great deals to be had for f/2.8 and faster lenses at 28 mm, 35 mm, 45 mm, 50 mm, and 135 mm. The Celtic line is the budget line, but in many cases the Celtic lenses use the exact same optics as their Rokkor or MD cousins. The 24/2.8, 58/1.2 and 85/1.7 lenses are quite expensive and sought after - not hidden gems at all.
http://minolta.eazypix.de/lenses/body_li.html
http://www.rokkorfiles.com/Lens%20History.html
http://thesybersite.com/minolta/historical/Minolta_Lens_Chronology.htm
And of course, the Rokkor 58mm f1.4
It's a gem because it's 95% of the f1.2 that anyone can afford.
And the 85mm 1.7 …
Guys, this is topic about hidden gems, with data, specs and link to examples, at least.
Not about lens you just like :-)
This is not only a hidden gem, it's one of my favorites on the GH2: SMC Pentax-M 50mm f/1.7
http://www.kenrockwell.com/pentax/35mm/lenses/50mm-f17-smc-m.htm
Really, we have other topics about this. 50mm is galaxy away from hidden gem :-)
Konica Hexanon 80-200mm f3.5:
http://www.buhla.de/Foto/Konica/Objektive/e80-200_35.html
Two-touch, constant-aperture, parfocal zoom with a built-in tripod collar mount
OK, here we go: Tamron 90mm 1:2.5 SP Macro – one of the finest macro lenses with beautiful Bokeh. Very sharp even wide open, good for any distance, not only macro. Still under 100 €/$ on Ebay.
Robotar 35mm f2.8 m42 thread, 55mm filter size Very nice sharp japanese lens. Paid 30 eur for it few years ago. I'll post some pics of it, and taken by it.
It is definitely hidden, not sure if it is a gem, at least because of the name.
I'd Recommend Angenieux Mega Zoom Lenses, they're Parfocal, Infinity focus, de-clicked and cost $10,000 + when they were new...
I would add the Takumar 200mm f5.6 to this list. After reading some reviews many prefer this over the faster f4 version claiming better color. I haven't tried th F4 version, but my 50 year old F5.6 looks pretty nice in my humble opinion.
@LPowell Do you have any examples of stuff shot on this lens? I see a few deals right now for it. I've been looking for a parfocul constant zoom for a bit now.
@lpowell @vicharris - Just used my newly purchased konica AR 80-200 f3.5 on a shoot today.
Parfocal? The focus was all over the place when zooming? Perhaps I'm not understanding but this lens doesn't seem to be parfocal. On the other hand the constant aperture does hold true.
Perhaps I got a bad one. For $20 US worth a try.
Perhaps I got a bad one. For $20 US worth a try.
Ya think? Yes, in this case, I'm afraid you've only shortchanged yourself. I tested my well-preserved copy of the Hexanon 80-200mm f3.5 using the AF100's focus peaking feature. Even at f3.5, the red fringes shimmered persistently throughout the full range of the lens' focal lengths. And it doesn't breathe much either.
I have the Tokina SZ-X 28-200mm F3.5-5.3. The contrast is unlike any other lens i've ever used. Quite high. Dirt cheap lens.
And most interesting is that Tokina and Vivitar are completely different lenses (while both are 28-200mm F3.5-5.3).
Here's my GH2 with a vintage Angie and Red Rock. Parafocal, beautiful.
Here's a demonstration of the Hexanon 80-200mm zooming across its range at f3.5. Sorry it's a little overexposed, I wanted to demonstrate its parfocal ability to hold focus while zooming at its narrowest DOF.
@LPowell NICE! Just what I've been looking for. Is the zoom ring hard to turn or does it require some motivation? I see one for $30 right now. Looks like a deal to me.
@vicharris where are you finding these deals? All I've been seeing on ebay are in the $75.00 up range. (Buy it now)
@vicharris The Hexanon's zoom ring is smooth and well-damped, though the internal lens movement is a little scratchy. The focus ring is super smooth, but it extends and rotates the front filter threads along with it. What's really unusual about this lens is that the zoom mechanism is completely internal, and does not change the length of the lens. So gear up the zoom ring to your follow focus, it's that good!
I can't find any of these with 1:3.5 here in Europe, while a very similar looking 1:4 is readily available (the 1:4.5 is completely different, being a one-touch). Does anybody know if they are comparable in quality and handling?
Probably not that rare, but I bought a Tokina constant f4 28 - 85mm zoom from Ebay recently for £21. Nice (if heavy) lens that is parfocal with internal zoom - so the lens doesn't gain in length as you zoom in on a subject. Quite soft/milky wide open (f4) but close it down beyond f5.6 and it's fine. I de-clicked it so have a smooth free running iris and the focusing ring is very smooth. Images will "milk" out if pointed towards a large bright light source (like the sky!!) but I'm currently trying to see if a large lens hood will help here. Some footage shot in a local National Trust garden here ...
... this is ungraded straight out of the GH2 with a standard 6000k white balance and CP-L filter.I'd like to second the opinions about Minolta MD 28 f2.8 posted earlier in this thread. It is very sharp and good contrast. The only thing that I do not always like about it is the somewhat harsh bokeh at full aperture. But for this there is inexpensive cure, Minolta MD 45 f2. One full aperture brighter image with similar sharpness and really nice and smooth bokeh. A cinematic lens.
If you wanted a lens that is sharp at wide open aperture, close focus lenses often behave like that. One macro lens was already mentioned in this topic, but I would add Minolta Macro Rokkor 50 mm f3.5, which can focus down to 1:2 ratio. With the supplied adapter goes to 1:1. It is very sharp at full aperture f3.5. These lenses are already a bit harder to come by.
And one more "sleeper" could be the Tokina 17 mm f3.5. It is an old design but the image is nicer and more "organic" than for example Lumix 14 mm. According to Ken Rockwell this lens has low contrast at full aperture, but I have found that using a proper hood helps. The front element is very close to the front edge of the lens and being extra wide gathers a lot of light from wide sector.
Speaking of the hidden gems, is Pentacon 30 mm f3.5 considered as one? I learned from photographers that this is a really desired Meyer Lydith lens design that should pick especially yellow hues well. Very inexpensive and comes in M42 thread connection.
As soon as I get one, I will post how it works for video.
Edit: I highly liked the video above with Tokina 28-85 f4. I suppose this is the RMC series? It was also mentioned the lack of contrast at full aperture, but I recommend testing a really good hood that has no reflective parts inside. This could help.
I have Tokina AT-X 28-85 mm f.3.5-4.5 lenses in several lens mounts and the first one I tested was in Canon FD mount. There is a little bit of ghosting in the image, meaning that the out of focus items in front of the sharp focus area are not nicely blurred. However, further investigation revealed that the Canon FD mount allows a bit of play sideways atleast in this lens/adapter combination. It is possible the lens is not fully centered. The other one I have is in Nikon F mount and will be able to see if the problem goes away in that version. The price is very good for those lenses, so hopefully will be able to recommend it later.
@aki_hartikainen Take a look at the Tokina 28-70 2.6-2.8 Japanese Version. The newer ones are not great but the older one that has that variable iris, seems to be the best. Honestly, I can't see the 2.6-2.8 shift when I zoom and it's an awesome lens. Internal zooming and I got one with a broken autofocus for nikon from Adarama for $150. I mixed it with Rokinon 35mm footage and it's dame close.
Do you know if that one is the famed Angenieux desing? One of the Tokina 28-70 f2.6-2.8 lenses would be designed by Angenieux. The autofocus lenses tend to be a bit bulkier, so I have so far picked the older manual focus versions, of which AT-X 24-40 f2.8 is a good one. I am hoping that my path will cross with the Angenieux Tokina soon, though.
@vicharris There were a number of variants of the Tokina 28-70mm ATX Pro. The one I have looks exactly like the f2.6-2.8 with the screw-on 77mm hood, except that it's labeled f2.8. Here's the best write-up I've found on them:
http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2009/11/tokina-at-x-pro-28-70mm-f26-28.html
I must be crazy but I wasn't that impressed by the 28-70mm. I had it and sold it, definitely not usable at 2.6, and even 4 seemed pretty soft
@MattRobertson that sounds unusual, because I have been delighted to find that all Tokinas I have used have had good sharpness even at aperture wide open. These include several manual AT-X zoom lenses, as well as RMC 17, 24 and 28 prime lenses. All are good, if not great, aperture wide open but contrast is improved using as tight hood as the angle permits and with reflection absorbing padding on the inside.
Edit: actually, I have to mention a Tokina built Vivitar 35-105 f3.5 close focusing zoom lens that is a bit soft at full aperture. But there are reports on the Internet that the same design branded as Tokina is a newer and improved version with decent sharpness even at aperture wide open. This is a rather heavy lens with internal zoom.
Tokina 28-70mm variations are NOT hidden gems.
The Pentacon 30 mm f3.5 could be, though. I was aware of the filmic quality of the Pentacon 135 mm f2.8, so I was not surprised to get very fine images from it. But I did not know about the Meyer Lydith design 30 mm being so highly regarded by many. And it can be had for a few tenners.
Supposedly the Pentacon 50 mm is not in the same league.
Pentacon lenses were made in East Germany in the lens factories that remained on that side of the border using often the same tools and designs that they had used originally.
I'm not sure if the Canon EF 35-80mm f/4.0-5.6 III lens can be classified as a gem, it is rather a "toy" lens. Nonetheless this used to be the lightest compact zoom EF lens (175g). Surprisingly, the lens performs not too bad even wide open with my Micro Four Thirds camera, http://www.flickr.com/photos/igor29768/5343794365 For sure, I'll be very happy to replace it with the Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8, but the Panasonic f/2.8-lens is double in weight in comparison with the Canon :-)
I just bought a Hexanon 80-200/3.5 .. I have found one available adapter, a kipon (bower). Is anybody aware of any others before I purchase?
The Vivitar (or Kiron) 28-85mm f2.8-3.8 is an amazing lens. I owned the Kiron version which was a rebranded Vivitar. It was nicknamed "The Stovepipe". I used it for interviews with my AF100 and GH2. I picked it up for $20 at a local pawnshop and it ended up being one of my best lenses. I eventually sold it with my AF100. It comes in many mounts.
I owned the Kiron version which was a rebranded Vivitar.
Yep, just in reverse, as I know.
Vivitar never made lenses themselfs, they even did not make designs for most lenses.
Old russian Zorki and Jupiter lenses are excellent, one can get them for peanuts today. After the soviet army has stolen whole the Zeiss factory in 1945 (including the glass) they re-built the factory in Krasnoyarsk (Moscow region) and produced the lenses and cameras there. There are only very few different focal lengths available and three different mounths as much I know, RF bayonet (same like Contax) M42 and M39 (attention: the screw is slightly different than Leica's). The real little gems are the ZM (or SM) lenses made before 1952 as original Leica's stolen glass has been used for those lenses. The problem of bubbles in the glass was solved after 60-s, although the IQ of the "bubbled" lenses is also lovely. The Jupiter lenses from 70-s are great (first two numbers of the serial No contain year code). Be aware that the serial Nos of the oldest lenses didn't contain year codes. If you want to buy some of the rare, oldest ZK lenses, make sure you get a coated one ....must have (russian) letter "P" in red colour. Later produced lenses were coated anyway. The coating layer is VERY soft! The Jupiter lens 85mm f/2.0 is kind of getting popular nowadays, but the other Jupiter lenses are nearly unknown.... real little gems.
Try to get a Jupiter 3 these days! It's not a hidden gem any more, you pay premium for any decent sample.
Plus, BTW, I wouldn't call it "stealing", it was openly taken as compensation for war damage. Russian mathematicians improved on German formulas and even at the height of the cold war Soviet lenses won a grand price at Brussels world expo.
Unfortunately, quality control was lacking. For some lenses you need to buy (=hunt down) 3 or 4 samples to get one that's fine. BTW, beware of any early nineties samples. After the end of SU, quality control got too bad. Some lenses are still in production today and got back on track again.
@nomad Zeiss factory owners haven't made damages, but their factory has been taken away. Call it however you like, but please not in this topic.
So I think the real gem is ZK 50mm f/2.0, the predecessor of Jupiter 8, but it is very rare- almost impossible to find. Jupiter 3 is fast lens, but try also to get ZK 50mm/1.5 instead. It is its predecessor and very rare lens, and also made by stolen german glass. Those lenses were produced only arround 1948-1951 and are real gems, with historical and optical value.
More recommendations...
M42 screwmount SLR lenses:
Helios 44-2, Russian 58mm/f2 M42, can be found on flea markets for $10-20. Renders beautiful images, a cult lens.
Pentacon 200mm/f4 (=Meyer Görlitz 200mm/f4). Excellent super tele lens that can be found cheaply second hand.
C-mount lenses:
Cosmicar (=Pentax) 25mm/f1.4, the ultra-cheap alternative to the Panasonic 20mm or 25mm lenses. Hardly vignettes on the GH2. Even better, but more expensive: Schneider Cine-Xenon 25mm/1.4, delivers beautiful images, reaches infinity focus.
Fujian 35mm/f1.7, this Chinese c-mount lens can be had on Ebay new for $20 and even covers the APS-C-size sensors (also available with SLR Magic rebranding for more than $100), reaches infinity focus;
more from Cosmicar: 75mm/f1.4, the $100 Ebay alternative to the $700 Olympus 75mm/1.8. Sharp, no vignetting, good contrast, reaches infinity focus.
Cosmicar 22.5-90mm/f1.5 zoom, least vignetting of a c-mount zoom on GH1/GH2 without ETC, reaches infinity focus, example on
Ernitec 6.5mm/f1.8, vignettes but still beautiful as an extreme wide angle lens - fantastic sharp images with gorgeous colorful flares [used for most of this video:
]C-mount lenses to be used in ETC mode:
Tamron 4.0-12mm/f1.2 [equivalent to a 10-30mm Micro Four Thirds lens], excellent super wide angle zoom, costs ca. $120; infinity focus with thin adapters.
Cosmicar 8-48mm/f1.0-1.2 [equiv. to 20-120mm M4/3rds], fastest zoom lens ever, can be found cheaply for around $120.
(Second the opinion on the Jupiter-3 50mm/f1.5. Great lens for the GH2 because of its compact size and stepless aperture. The Jupiter-9 85mm/f2 is great, too, and has a stepless aperture ring as well.)
go full frame with vg900 and all lenses will be gems
I went through a box where I had put 'junk maybe gem' lenses, that I acquired from ebay and local stores just before I bought my GH2. I was still tossing up between canon and panasonic.
I think I may have found one, it's a 'Soligor Auto Zoom 75-260mm f4.5' it is a T4 mount, and was according to research manufactured by Tokina in about 1969, also branded as Vivitar.
The front element rotates when focusing.
The barrel lengthens slightly when zooming.
It has a rotating tripod mount.
I haven't shot charts yet - it's looks really sharp at f8 on my DP6
It's parfocal .. I assume that is what they mean by 'Auto Zoom'
Here is a wiki entry:
http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Vivitar_T-4_75-260mm_f/4.5_Tele-Zoom
Search for 'soligor auto zoom 75-260 review' and you'll find some write ups and sample stills.
The T4 mount adapter are problematic because of scarcity.
Mine came with a Nikon adapter, and I scoured the planet and purchased both a Canon adapter and a Minolta MD adapter.
I don't know enough about Nikon and Canon mounts to identify what mount they are. I think they are FD canon and F Nikon.
I'll add this .. If anybody is Nikon based and want's to try T4 lenses I'll sell the Nikon for $20 plus postage
BTW, I found the Tokina f4 28 - 85mm for a decent price, but it's not really par focal. My sample doesn't look like it's damaged.
Still quite usable, since zooming doesn't change the length and even focusing doesn't change it much. Plus, breathing is minimal for a zoom.
Yashica ML 35-70 f3.5-4.8 appears to be nearly perfect zoom on the GH1 and focuses close also. Lens body is plastic but otherwise well made. This lens renders nothing but beautiful and zeiss-like images. Anything that is not in the sharp focus is rendered nicely. I can not say the same for all lenses. Perhaps not a hidden gem, but a gem nonetheless. Also, contrast is slightly less than the very contrasty ML prime lenses, perfect on digital with a little less dynamic range.
@nomad "BTW, I found the Tokina f4 28 - 85mm for a decent price, but it's not really par focal. My sample doesn't look like it's damaged."
If the lens is supposed to be parfocal but is not, then the adapter length is a suspect. Not all adapters are made to a very high tolerances. I've compared several different adapters for the same lens mount and have found differences in the length that can be measured in millimeters, a long distance in optics.
Technically, you are right.
But this is the MD version of the Tokina, and the Minolta 35-70mm is parfocal on the same adapter. Nevertheless it's a nice lens and it uses a similar mechanism to keep the aperture constant, just like the Rokkor.
I wish we could have this in the 12-35mm Panny lens instead of the stepping aperture motor…
Minolta 35-70 is not parfocal on the MD adapter I have, so perhaps the Tokina could be ;-)
@nomad @aki_hartikainen Yes, I've noticed quite a variation in adapter quality - and it has nothing to do with price. I bought a mid-priced MD-m4/3 that was very loose and the lens was slapping about all over the place (even after I tried to adjust the locking pin on it) and then I bought a cheap £11 one that was perfect, so it doesn't surprise me that they can also be slightly different lengths too (which would also affect infinity focus). Certainly my Tokina 28-85 is parfocal on the GH2, so you may have ended up with a dodgy one, or as we said the adapter might be at fault.
Thanks for the info, I'll try another adapter.
just got the vivitar 28-200mm from ebay in fd mount .im not sure its the fd adapter to m43 this one http://www.amazon.com/Fotga-Adapter-Canon-Mount-Micro/dp/B00870R1D4 but i cant seem to be able to focus this lens at all unless its set on 200mm ,anything below i get a blurry focus on all the ranges of the focus gear .. is the macro function on this lens only available at 200mm? it seems like its locked (the 1:4 macro option) once the lens is set to anything below 200mm, maybe i have a defective lens, im not sure its the lens or the adapter
Hey Sammy I also just received the same lens but it's the pentax version and I'm also having great difficulty focusing, the strange thing is focus only works at 200mm I'm baffled...
@sammy @laserguidedtaco I should be receiving the vivitar 28-200mm fd mount shortly. I will verify if there is a focusing problem, etc...
I bought this one from Germany, FD version (this is the actual auction http://www.ebay.com/itm/360453537790?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 ). I can say this lens is awesome. (Thanks to @Vitaliy_Kiselev for the good advice) I have the Fotga adaptor, and the lens can focus from 2 meters to infinite without problems. The macro function "unlock" at 200mm, and it can focus 60 cm circa.
Carl Zeiss C/Y 135mm 2.8 a rarely mentioned lens which works perfectly with the M4/3. For the performance the price is very affordable. Very usable for portraits, for nature/wildlife w. ETC and 720P and with macrorings great for insects etc. small example on my youtube:
KurtCarl Zeiss C/Y 135mm 2.8 can be rarely mentioned, but it is not hiudden gem.
@LaserGuidedTaco i have tried everything and i cant focus that lens , maybe we got a faulty adapter , but why would oit focus correctly at 200mm if that was the case
@sammy I'm not sure if its a faulty adapter...I purchased a Fotodiox Pentax K (PK) to Micro 4/3. I guess we will have to wait for Daisuke's results...
The Navitar 75mm f1.3 CCTV lens is a hidden gem. I had one, shot quite a few films with it, but eventually sold it cos I thought it was a 1 inch lens, and not future proof. I could be wrong, seeing that C mount could some day make a comeback, especially now with contraptions like Digital Bolex looming on the horizon. Those who are able to locate one should try it. Luminous lens that yields hairline sharpness, and yet the images are filmic.
I suggest to make or use some existing topic about lens troubles.
ok Vitaliy will do!
Just had a small spending spree today on some gems (hopefully). The above talked about MD 35-70, a couple of fd mount vivitar series 1 zooms (both 70-210 f3.5).. Going for a couple of other ones as well, as long as I can get them cheap. :)
To sum it up: P-V is quite a resource!
Edit: Just got a vitaliy favourite(?) – vivitar 28mm f2.8. I´ve also got a rokkor pf 58mm coming... Not quite a hidden gem, but it´s largely overlooked by those going for MD lenses.
I have a channel on vimeo showing shoots with different vintage lenses:
I've just tested yesterday my russian Jupiter-8 lens (50mm f/2.0) on the NEX-7. Mine example (made 1972, I own it since 1982) has none CA at all, not even in the corners of APS-C sensor. Amazing IQ and beautifull picture in a $20 lens.
@apefos Thanks! I just bought the Soligor 35-140. Like the idea of parfocul! Does that Vivitar zoom keep focus through the zoom as well?
@vicharris I sold the vivitar 70-150mm f3.8 and the vivitar 70-210mm f3.5 so I am not sure. What I can remember is
the 70-210 is impossible to do smooth zoom, the zoom and focus are in same ring and you need to move front and back to do zoom and when you move you get some jumps. but it is a nice lens. there is a video on vimeo with it in my channel.
The 70-150mm is very smooth zoom, the focus and zoom rings are separate and you rotate the zoom ring to do zoom. If I can remember it is parfocal, but I am not sure. If you find it cheap it deserves a try. But with the 2x crop factor in GH2 this lens will be a strong tele and its image will be prone to shake when you move the ring to do zoom. I used this lens in my full frame 35mm adapter so without a crop factor the 70-150 works better to zoom. In my vimeo channel there is a video done with it.
Ha, talking about great russian lenses almost forgot this one: Helios-103 (53mm f/1,8). Comparing its price with performance, it's a real hidden gem.
The only two drawbacks are:
1. I never saw yet an adapter for MFT, the only mount this lens was made for is the old Kiev/Contax bayonet, I think. I bought from some russian guy via eBay his hand-made adapter which works great
2. this lens has no multi-coating which makes it prone to flare and ghosting. With hood it performs like champion.
If anyone wants a broken Soligor 35-140, let me know. The one I ordered is all kinds of FUBAR'd. Iris doesn't work properly and sure isn't parfocal. If you know how to work with lenses, maybe you can get it in shape. You pay shipping and it's yours! :) I'm in CA.
Anyone know of any gems in terms of a wide angle that will match the image type of my Lomos (50mm & 28mm)? Thinking something between around 14-16mm, but maybe more or less. I Don't want a Lomo as the wide ones are soft. My main goal is to get a wide that has the same image type of my other Lomos so they match when editing footage shot with the different lenses. Any gems?
Just bought on ebay Vivitar 28-200mm F3.5-5.3 for 8€ LOL
The lens is in mint condition and has Canon FD mount.
EDIT: I confirm what Vitaliy wrote about this lens several times: it really does have outstanding optical performance. I had no time to test it yet in its full focal range and in all details, but the first tests vs Canon FD primes are excellent.
I tested two copies of Soligor 35-140mm. One is parfocal from 35 to 105 and the other is not. I just don't know why.
The Kobori 28-200/3.5 is a much better lens for this particular range.
The Kobori 28-200/3.5 is a much better lens for this particular range
What do you mean under it.
As Vivitar is just brand name, so it can be exactly same lens.
Sorry--Kobori lenses with serial beginning 777, which identifies it as from the Kobori factory--which still has a website with photos of the lens. This lens is very different in construction and of course quality from the Vivitar lenses covering the same range. All 777 lenses are from this factory. There is also a smaller, F4 push-pull which is also very good and compact, but does not have the quality of the 28-200 Kobori.
In fact, if you look at first page, serial begins with 77, and it is first two digits that show manufacturer, not three.
So, I still do not understand remark.
@Brianluce Does ETC have to be on to use this lens?
I'm sure you are right, that it is the first two digits, I just happen to have two that start with triple 777 for some reason. What I mean by my comment is that I have tested quite a few of these legacy zooms, and I have found the Koburi to have better color and sharpness, for lenses that cover a similar range. None of them is as sharp as something like a Leicasonic, but they have a big range and are cheap.
I'm just got a 300mm F/4.5 Tair lens in (photosniper one).. just waiting for the tripod screws to arrive and then I can try it in the wild.. pretty excited to try it and see if it is any good..
I haven't shot any real footage with it yet, but I find the Tamron Adaptall 80-210mm f/3.8-4 a fabulous performer in the bargain basement range when shooting stills. I've compared it to a 70-210mm 19AH SP Adaptall-2 in some not-very-controlled comparison tests on my Pentax k100d Super for stills, and it performs quite admirably in comparison- and it's so much lighter and easier handling.
Used it in some closeup work on a quick and dirty test when first got my hands on a gh2, and footage matched up very nicely with that shot with a Pentax M 50mm f/1.4.
I've seen it in the $10-$35 range depending on condition/seller: Mine came in a job lot with some other fantastic lenses for 80 bucks, so I'd have to say I paid ~$25.00, but it wasn't why I grabbed the job lot, believe me! (Pentax K 55mm f/1.8 and M 35mm f/2.8 were the big attraction).
Details here: http://www.adaptall-2.org/lenses/103A.html
Not able to find any details about this one.Need advise before buying a not so clean lens with fungus on it. Is it worth buying ? This could be a hidden gem.There is very little mention about it on the net. The serial number on the lens is -77510152
Canon FD lenses are indeed very famous in this moment.
But one of the very best FD's is not popular at all.... it's real hidden gem: the 50mm f/3.5 Macro!
I own set of 14 FD primes in all focal lengths between 17mm and 200mm. I don't know if I am just lucky to own especially good copy this lens, but it kind of outperforms almost all other FDs I have. I find it just indispensable.
Nobody wants 50mm f/3.5 lenses today, so one can buy it for next to nothing, if just a bit lucky. Straight from maximal aperture onwards great IQ: no flare, no ghosting, no CA, razor sharp all over, good colors rendition. Its optical elements are as small as Panny 20mm/1.7's
This is the one:
Hope not to go off topic, but I bought a Vivitar (Kobori) 28-200 and it doesn't seem to focus at, let's say, 1 mt distance (without going in macro mode when it does focus). I tried the Lumix 35-100 to check/compare and it does indeed focus at that distance. Should it be a fault of the adapter (which is not a cheap one but an Italian custom-made adapter (http://www.adrianololli.com) with aperture control which I bought for the Tokina 11-16)? Or could it be that I got a faulty lens? Sorry for the lame question btw ...
I wonder why nobody has mentioned the KMZ TAIR 11A 2.8/135mm (M42) yet. 20 Aperture Blades: can you spell BOKEHHHH ! ;) Rare to get one in very good condition, needs a good tripod but absolutly beautiful in terms of IQ/color rendition and the creamiest bokeh of all russian glass.
Still looking for a good one myself, only had the chance to borrow it from a friend of mine till now (he got a rare one with a leading zero in the serial no. ) :(
@tetakpatak do you have the Canon FD 20mm 2.8 in your set? If yes I would like to ask if you have this same issue:
When I use it on the GH2 the image sharpness is ok in center and corner at 2.8 (wide open) because GH2 just uses the center of image circle due to the sensor crop factor.
But when I use it on the Canon FD A1 old full frame film camera, the corners are very soft and blurred at 2.8 and the lens becomes usable at f5.6 and above.
The FD 20mm 2.8 I tested was very good condition, looks like mint, so I supposed the corner softness in full frame is normal from this lens at wide open f-stops.
@apefos yes, I have it, it is correct behavior, as FD 20mm f/2.8 just isn't top class lens. It is just good, nothing exceptional. It is not a gem and it is also not hidden :-)
@apefos - yes, I see the same thing. The crop factor really classes up the FD lenses by removing their soft corners.
@tetakpatak - Thanks for the comments about the FD 50mm F/3.5 macro. I would buy one but I have the Panasonic/Leica 45mm macro which is just a phenomenal lens. (It sounds like we have very similar FD lens kits except for the 50mm macro.)
I've got a Soligor 35-70mm f2.5~3.5, declicked w/ 8 aperture blades, and does macro pretty well.
@Vitaliy_Kiselev thank you for lens suggestion and hacks, thank you for everyhting.
Cheers!
Does anybody know if Soligor 28-200 3.5-5.3 (no.99...) is the same construction as Vivitar/Kobori? Thanks!
Does anybody know if Soligor 28-200 3.5-5.3 (no.99...) is the same construction as Vivitar/Kobori? Thanks!
No one knows it, I think. But it can be. If you can get it cheap you can test it yourself.
Just bought a Vivitar 28-200 (777) on eBay with M42 mount; can anyone recommend a suitable Micro 4/3 adapter? Cheers. Agree with the comments about the 25mm and 75mm Cosmicar lenses - great lenses for the price, even if the 25mm looks ridiculous on an AF101!
Which 75mm Cosmicar is this? There are versions in 1.3, 1.4 and 1.8 floating around in the bay.
@TheLoneRoger
Just check eBay. It's full of the adapters. I've ordered often directly from Hong Kong for just a few $ and they were all really well-done.
@TheLoneRoger: I can recommend the "Bigis" one. It´s working like a charm. (And it´s also pushing the pin inside the lens ... Which is neede for "auto" lenses. They only work manually when the pin is pushed inside the lens.)
Thanks. I've ordered one on eBay that looks to be the same as the Bigis one - I think a lot of these Chinese parts are the same but branded under many different names - certainly if they're anything like Chinese motorcycle parts, they are! The Cosmicar 75mm I've got is f1.9 - see below. The one in the picture above is a Pentax branded 25mm, which is f1.4
I think a lot of these Chinese parts are the same but branded under many different names
I couldn't agree more, +1
Hmm, looks like I got a bad one - the few test images I've taken are quite hazy and when you hold it up to the light, although the front & bck elements look clean enough, if you angle it slightly it's quite 'milky'. The adapter has a bit of radial play in it too, so all in all, not a great day's eBaying!
@flablo I have the same thing, under about 10' can't focus unless in macro, kind of makes sense with the marking on the focus ring that only has down to 10' on it, doesn't make it less frustrating though.
@flablo the wider it is the longer the distance has to be to the subject to be able to focus on mine. About 55 mm is about 15' at about 30mm it's about 30'. Have you found a solution? Sorry, this is a bit off topic.
Ah, put another adapter on and bingo, the vivitar 28-200 is working great! That's the end of my diversion!
@belfryman later I found that with that lens the minimum focus distance is quite big, more than 1m if I recall right.
Do you find an adapter which changed the minimum focal distance? That's peculiar. Does it focus to infinity?
BTW I bought another similar Vivitar, the 28-90 1:2.8-1:3.5 Series 1 which is really good as well. It also has a macro mode and you can get as close 2cm
This mouth to mouth trusted info it's very nice... nevertheless to me some details /extra info and personalized experience is missing.
Starting with the very first lens: Vivitar 28-200 f3.5-5.3 serials beggining with 77 aka Kobori motherfucka.
The sample I have is nikon mount:
When I have the time I promise to test it further, probably even making a mega orgy comparisson thingie.
VIDEO - GH3, mov 24p long GOP / shutter 25 / ISO 200 / WB daylight / Natural -5 -2 -5 -5
1 Shot at 200mm f-stop around 5.6 and the other 200mm + ETC same settings
No colour tinkering other than a LOG to Rec709 LUT and adjusted levels.
A sweep of NR and a pinch of sharpening =)
Here's the lens manual - vv28-200 / Source: allphotolenses
gashô
PS
I forgot, something OT but interesting, crop made in AE with creative impatience free plug, totally worth checking their free stuff =)
An while I'm at it, SOC Vivitar 28-200 f3.5-5.3 / Nikon AI 80-200 f4.5 / Vivitar 70-210 f2.8-4 / Panasonic 14-140 f4-5.8 all in ETC mode, see if you guess which is which, actually it's quite easy =)
Moon photo 1:1 quick&dirty developed
Jezus de mi alma y mi corazón!!! That last photo of the moon was developed by I retarded blind bat :P
Very interesting lens, the Vivitar 28-200 f3.5-5.3, lot of pros and cons... still need further acquaintance.
3 pics, ranging from the "wide" side, to 200mm, and macro. All handheld, settings I really can't remember.
BTW, considering how cheap they sell - 2 for each donut - would the experienced board of the elderly (:P) say
minolta MD 50mm f2 (49 filter thread) is a hidden gem? + lot's of samples WO, mounted on a nex though - here
So many times I've started (oh excuses... hell is mostly full of them... and layers and church ministers)... but as I never have time nor patience enough to finish a proper shootout, just the first minute and the half is a very loose and inconsistent comparison of the following manual PP zooms (nikon mount):
Soundtrack
Reggie Watts @ TED
gashô
A nikkor still sample forba bay developed with BCS_HP-64 LUT =)
disregard my entry as under a more detailed analysis (monkey with sugar spoon dancing the moonlight) the low end of the range showed focus deviation; so not consistently parfocal throughout the range. Sorry for any inconvenience, coffins' not for free :P
Was wondering if anybody on here could help me out:
I'm looking for an affordable tele-zoom (pref. 70-210ish) that matches my current contax-zeiss set. It needs to be f4 or faster constant aperture and two touch (!), parfocal and non-extending barrels, contax mount if possible. Any suggestions?
My research brought up a 70-210/f3.5 angenieux that's apparently quite good, but too pricey and seemingly can't be found in contax mount. Apart from that there's the Soligor MC C/D 70-210/f3.5 and the Tokina RMC 70-210/f3.5, both in contax mount and constant f3.5. Any infos on the two? Are they fixed barrels vs. extending? Parfocal? Edit: Are they any good at all?
Thanks in advance!
Zoom lenses are parfocal, by definition. The back focus just needs to be adjusted precisely to ensure parfocal operation. (something which can be difficult to do, depending on the lens and the adapter)
Those are old lenses. They're fine, but they'll be a bit hazy at their widest aperture settings. At f/5.6 they'll be pretty good. Just don't expect miracles from old zoom lenses. Most of them are flare-prone. You need to shade them from the sun.
As a rule, constant aperture two-touch zoom lenses do not extend while zooming. I'm pretty sure the Soligor and the Tokina don't extend while zooming by the looks of them. Not so sure about the Angenieux, but probably, since it's so long.
Zoom lenses are parfocal, by definition.
It is wrong statement.
Well, it is just word twisting ("true" zoom) thing used by some people.
In still photography term "zoom lens" is used for both varifocal and parfocal lenses (only very small amount of them is parfocal). In pro cinema lenses it is mostly used for parfocal lenses (due to obvious reasons).
This topic is about old used still lenses.
The vast majority of photographic zoom lenses are parfocal. I have seen only a small number of varifocal photographic lenses, and an even smaller number of photographic varifocal lenses with the term "zoom" misapplied. Yes, I am talking about old still lenses.
You will know when you have found a varifocal lens. The focus shifts hugely as you zoom in or out, and the focus distance scale markings indicate a shift over the range of focal lengths. The Makinon/Hanimex 28-80 f/3.5 is one example of a varifocal photographic lens that comes to mind.
I think you have simply encountered a number of lenses for which the back focus wasn't adjusted quite right, or that were less than perfectly parfocal due to mechanical imprecision of the movement. But they are still zoom lenses and they're still parfocal. Zoom lenses are not zoom lenses by accident. The design of a zoom lens has an extra group movement. If you leave that movement out, you get a lens that is very very far from being parfocal.
In the modern focus-by-wire zoom lens, there are some designs which are parfocal only eletronically: they lose focus briefly as you zoom in or out, and then regain focus when the focus motor refocuses (with no action on your part, and even in manual focus mode). They are still parfocal and still zoom lenses, but in a less desirable sense than the mechanically parfocal zoom lens.
I have seen only a small number of varifocal photographic lenses, and an even smaller number of photographic varifocal lenses with the term "zoom" misapplied. Yes, I am talking about old still lenses.
As you seen so much and yet tell such things, let's ask you to make set of clear test 4K videos of at least 20 old zoom lenses.
In the modern focus-by-wire zoom lens, there are some designs which are parfocal only eletronically: they lose focus briefly as you zoom in or out, and then regain focus when the focus motor refocuses (with no action on your part, and even in manual focus mode).
Can you provide specific samples?
Also, let's move from this topic to specific one.
Vitaliy, this seems to be a language problem. Parfocal doesn't mean perfectly parfocal. There are degrees of parfocal-ness, just like there are degrees of sharpness. Even if a lens isn't perfectly sharp, it was still designed to be sharp (usually). How sharp is another question entirely that has to do with the design, the manufacturing, the physical condition, and the focusing. Zoom lenses are designed to be parfocal. How parfocal is another question entirely that has to do with the design, the manufacturing, the physical condition, and the back focusing.
Variable focal length lenses can all be classified cleanly into "zoom" or "varifocal", according to their designs, with the vast majority being zoom lenses. The degree of parfocalness is a matter of lens performance. Just like everything else about a lens, some perform well and some perform poorly. I test at 1080p, not 4k, and only a few of my old zoom lenses are very close to being parfocal near their widest aperture settings. (and I've tested way more than 20) It depends very very much on the back focus. If you don't have an integrated back focus adjustment, a helicoid adapter, or do careful shimming of the lens, you will find the vast majority to be not very close to parfocal, due to the lens itself not having a perfect flange focal distance, or more often due to the adapter having the wrong flange focal distance. But they are still parfocal lenses by design. Fix the back focus and set the aperture somewhat smaller, and the vast majority of those old zoom lenses become fairly close to being perfectly parfocal.
If you are interested trying some old zoom lenses and seeing how parfocal the lenses are, you absolutely need a way to adjust the back focus.
I have more lenses than I can list. If it's manual focus, two-touch, and constant aperture in Minolta SR mount or C-mount, I probably have it, so go ahead and ask me. I don't have that Soligor, but I do have its little brother, the 45-150 f/3.5 C/D. It's made by Tokina in 1976, and it's a beautiful lens.
The Soligor 70-210 f/3.5 C/D is the same as the Tokina RMC 70-210 f/3.5, from about 1977. Constant aperture photographic zoom lenses become less common starting around 1980, due to the appearance of automatic through-the-lens "final check" metering.
An example of a focus-by-wire that is only electronically parfocal is the Lumux G Vario 14-140 f/4.0.
I do not agree with some of your statements considering zooms this is why I ask carefully controlled experiments in 4K (especially using m43 sensor). You will be free to adjust flange distance using shims.
It is good idea to add to tests modern zooms and ultrazooms.
An example of a focus-by-wire that is only electronically parfocal is the Lumux G Vario 14-140 f/4.0.
How about making us test?
wow, didn't intend to kick off such a discussion, hope you guys are still enjoying yourselves! thanks for the insight though, balazer! you wrote that the soligor and the tokina are basically the same design, yet you don't own them as far as I understand? have you had a chance to try them? and, as I heard many good things about the push/pull contax zooms (apart from being push/pull): do you have an idea on how they compare/mix/match?
thanks again!
(Back on topic), I've just received an M4/3 adapter for my soviet-era Industar 61 and really enjoying the delights and challenges.
One thing that has me perplexed is the peculiar focal-plane thing: The Industar 61 LD (macro) comes in a Leica m38 mount. When I attached the lens to my Sigma SA mount camera via the m38-SA adapter, I could do nothing but extra-close macros; now with my GH2 + adapter I can get everything but macro. I've tried shims, screwing lens out and even manually holding it closer to the sensor - but no luck getting the lens's full range.
BTW, in the meantime I'd blamed the first lens and bought a second, so now I have two...
That lens is for a Leica M39 screw mount. It has a much smaller flange distance than any SLR, so it can't fit a Sigma SA mount without correctional optical elements. Or it will be a macro without being meant to be one.
MFT has a much smaller flange distance and the lens can be adapted correctly, reaching infinity. If you want macro, you'll need extra distance rings.
it can't fit a Sigma SA mount
Thanks @nomad . That's sort of what I've been trying to get across to the guy who sold me the M39>SA adapter. He told me he'd tested it but won't answer my question about which SA camera he used.
In any case, I can keep the Polish adapter for macro shots. Will post when I can get latest version of Sigma Photo Pro to run on my fastest (Linux only) machine. [read: Virtualised Windows installation w/MicrosoftNet], just for this one application :-|
Took this first shot in fading autumn light of one of my vine leaves; Sigma SD1, $25 Hidden Gem lens Industar N61, ISO 200, F4.0. (Set to 1 meter, for all the good that'll do it)
Notice how it really is Macro only; part of the vine leaf is still out-of focus so from now on it's bright light and macro shots of flowers for me on the SIgma camera, ordinary pics (like shot 2) will come from the GH2 :-)
Rokkor 45mm
Not sure why that guy is so surprised. There have been about a bazillion really sharp ~50mm f/2 lenses over the years and a lot of them are cheap now. The Pentax SMC series were also really good and my Konica hexanon was also pretty great!
+1. Minolta SR lenses are known to be good and the 50s are not expensive either. Hardly hidden gems…
SMC Pentax-M 75-150mm
75mm
150mm
Test with some measurements
Big note - it is individual old lens review, and it looks like not best sample.
Tokina SZ-X SD 28-105mm f/4-5.3
50mm
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