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ColorGHear [PART 2]
  • 568 Replies sorted by
  • @shian Do we get a free upgrade from 9? I can't remember.

  • nice - glad it works so well for you. I'm loving it. I can totally breeze through my grades now. I'm excited to get my hands on Resolve 10 with CG Pro...

  • @shian I've been using CG to play around with my BMCC footage in Resolve. Works great to throw on some fast grades to get looks out there without all the fussing around.

  • @Shian Thanks!

    Hope you get things running smoothly. We all seem to have a Dragon to slay lately.

  • Sorry to disappear for so long. Been dealing with some serious shit. But I'm slowly getting back in the saddle. Great looking stuff, guys.

    @peternap I'm always going to assume that anything that starts with a baseline that has better compression than AVCHD is going to grade better and have less blocking.

  • @Shian I've been playing with a Ninja 2 on my AC160 (and canon X10) lately. I know both are 4:2:0 - 8 bit but damned if it doesn't seem to color grade a better with the DNxHd straight off of the HDMI.

    ColorGhears and Synthetic Aperture seems to give me a richer deeper grade with the Atomos than they do with AVCHD and the noise and macroblocking seems much reduced.

    I figure you've tried it. Is this my immigration or is there some benefit to the faux 10 bit 4:2:2 DNxHD.

  • If any of you still have doubts about Color GHear... let them rest. I would say it is one of the best investments you can make for your post production, period.

    Shian is truly a pro. I am a huge fan of ColorGHear and Shian's film school videos (I've learned a lot). This guy is sharing years of his experience and expertise, and years of tweaking his preset grades for such a small fee it would be absurd not to buy it. Considering the time, effort and money that goes into making a production work, cost-wise, this should be near the top of your list of must have tools. Besides this, he's a way cool, positive guy, and will help you out as much as he can. I hope everyone can recognize his tremendous contribution to helping people educate themselves to become better filmmakers.

    I just recently used ColorGHear on my first music video for a local artist. Using it with Adobe AE is an extremely powerful solution which allows limitless hierarchical tweaking. Since the production budget was very low - not much of the lighting could be controlled (save two reflectors), and there was limited time to complete it (Let alone render it in AE! Sorry, next time, film grain...). It is not perfect, but I really liked how the video looked when it was done, and I'm proud of what we could accomplish with so LITTLE .... Hats off to Shian. You are much appreciated, and you have enriched my knowledge and filmmaking experience tremendously!

    Please support this guy's work while doing yourself a huge favor.

    Shooting on GH2 with random old glass, + 14-140

    Crane shots with 5d Mk3 + Zeiss lenses (Thanks to an awesomely talented crane guy, Aaron Leong)

    Directed by Owen Burgess

    Cinematography by yours truly, Neal Brandon

  • Shot a wedding video for my sister in law. I put in a 12 hour day one man band style. I color corrected using Colorista 2 for my primary and secondary corrections and used Color GHear for my Master Looks. Used the Panasonic GH3 for the shoot. Looking back I should've used the GH2 but you live and you learn.

  • We should have some test footage online in, like, September.

  • Backstreets's back, alright!! ;)

  • And the plot thickens, looking forward to it.

  • Just to head off the flamenado that's sure to come my way on this:

    You may see my name mentioned in regards to a project that you wouldn't automatically think, "Oh, those two working together makes perfect sense." There will likely be a lot of snarky comments made all over the internet about this project and it's writer... I don't really care about that. I just wanted you to know that I know what's really going on behind the scenes, and that the project is gonna be awesome - otherwise i wouldn't have taken the gig. We've got an Oscar Winning producer running the show, the script is solid. And the concept, while not entirely original, is a great canvas for some pretty hardcore horror moments which I'm looking forward to filming. This will be anything but standard studio fare.

    It's an opportunity to prove that ALL of my low budget concepts, tricks, shortcuts, etc, can be brought to bear on a feature film with stunning results. It will be shot using the techniques I teach and graded in CG Pro. The promo poster stills are from a make-up test, and are not photographs - but still frames from the GH2 running Intravenus with no airbrushing. Shot on a zero budget with what was on hand at the time.

    I can't link to it cuz doing so would violate the rules here at PV, but I'm sure I won't have to. My inbox is already getting dinged with messages from friends who saw my name attached and were like, "Seriously? WTF? So what's the scoop? I know you wouldn't do it unless it were something cool... So what's up?" And all I can say is: just wait and see."

  • You are welcome - I hope it finally makes sense. Once you understand it, you can use it any way you want. Most cinematographers I talk to use different methods relating to the Zone System depending on their style and approach. I have taught you the way I use it. But you might find other approaches.

    I've also taught the way I use a light meter - which is different from what others who have worked so long in film have done because of the latitude.

    I use an incident meter to read each light. Where as some will just point it at the camera to average the light and expose that way. I like knowing what each light is giving me so I have pinpoint control. I consider the "pointing it at the camera" way the lazy approach, which you can get away with on film and higher end digital, but DSLR shooters can run into trouble pretty quick if they're not careful.

    There is a correlation chart between false color and the zones using skin tone as a pivot for generic FC monitors and for RED now on the page under the Zone System tutorials.

  • Just caught up with the zone system tutorial, thanks for working though that. I'm not a cinematographer but it's really helpful at times on set to be able to instruct my cinematographer knowing all of these things at least on a surface level. Now to get a color chart and do some tests. Looking forward to more!

  • @vicharris Thanks. It's good to see that I'm helping. I sometimes wonder if my tutorials actually help people or if I just confound them so much that they're just stupefied into saying, "Oh, yeah...that makes sense."

  • @shian that makes sense. What my result showed was that center of GH2 meter results into RGB 127 +/- 2. I don't own light meter but seem to be that light meter is based on IRE. 50% in IRE is not 127 in RGB.

  • @shian So my past two shoots I've been utilizing your expose in the zone method for skin tones and when I get home to check the scopes, 80% or more of the time, I'm dead on in the waveform and vetorscope. Thanks so much and of course, it's always a learning process. Now just to work on getting the whole scene in the 20-80 range!

  • the GH2 doesn't have 11 stops and the curve changes the further away from center you get. The cam has 9.5 stops from pure white [zone X] to Pure black [zone 0], and not 11. Not to mention that the cam does not have a true black but bottoms out at broadcast black [7%]

    So subtract 2 stops off the top - and you get 7.5 stops

  • Hi @shian, like to come back to your Ansel Adams zone chart. Just made a test with my GH2 to confirm mentioned RGB and luminance levels. For that purpose I performed clips on a white wall with a line of different stops that the clips pass from dark to bright. I get excactly mentioned RGB and luminance levels for each zone. The difference is that I only found 7 stops (3 clicks on the thumb wheel for eachs stop) to pass whole range. If I change to 2 clicks on the thumb wheel for every change I pass excactly the 11 zones.


    That means one zone is 2/3 of a stop with my GH2. Is that because of m43 optics?


    Nice result is that by fitting the zone vs luminance curve I can receive an equation to integrate contrast ratio measurement into mentioned skin picker.

  • the 1 stop is muting your singer. If you exposed skin tone at 80.... that's a problem. It should have been no higher than 70. Skin should always be in the middle somewhere. between 40-65. White things should bump up around 80.

    The 20-80 rule is for your exposure in camera not a finished ranged. The finished range should be spread out to put everything in it's proper zone.

    You compress in-cam, and expand and or crush in post.

    Use a levels adjustment to mve the whole image down the scale. You do not have a scene with meaty exposure, the DR is too broad. so you need to slide it down so the shadows are actually shadows.

  • Hey guys!

    I'm cutting a video for a client. I plan on using Color Ghear to CC the project. I came up with a pretty tame look, but I'm thinking maybe I added too much density. I placed the levels between 20 and 80 IRE to start then I proceeded to correct. Does anyone have any suggestions or tips on how to make the footage pop?

    Thanks

    Oh and incase anyone is wondering, these are in ascending order.

    Unsharp Mask 60 Amount, Radius 2.0 Power mask around singer to bring him out Spectral Enhancer 57% Density 63% -1 Stop Exposure Cine Ghamma Levels 20-80 in Waveform

    Before CC.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 638K
    After CC_00004.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 693K
  • I try at the moment to bulid up a skin-picker program which can online-track (during correction/grading) color changes on multiple points of desktop. I think it's convinient besides normal scopes to look at same time to smaller regions with memory colors like skin. Now I'm a little bit confused as I want to implement luma values.

    There are mainly three different facts which I need to clarify:

    1) As far as I realized there are different luma systems like HSL, HSV, Rec. 709, Rec 601 which weigths color RGB differently. Is there a modern practical standard which is best. Or is everything depends on scopes of certain software as well as camera manufacturer just mixed up. That means which luma system is working with metering systems of cameras like Panasonic/Canon/Nikon etc.; which luma system is working with software like DaVinci Resolve/ Sony Vegas etc..

    2) How can I convert RGB colors (digital values) into IRE (analog values). Is it correct that 0-255 RGB values correspond to 0-108 IRE and 16-235 RGB corresponds to 7.5-100 IRE.

    3) If I want to calculate above into zones. What is the start and the end value of each zone. Mentioned RGB values of zone system is not linear - why. Why is RGB of zone 0 start value, RGB of zone V middle and RGB of zone X end value and what are then the others...

    Please can somebody help me...

    @Shian is the use of different luma systems for meters of cameras and software the reason why you observed the luma drop with the GH2.

  • Thanks, dude. I hope the Zone materials are finally solving some mysteries for you guys. I wish it was simpler to explain, but it's just not. But hopefully now you get it, and can start applying it.

    It's a bit like trying to learn Japanese by thinking that all you need is Hiragana, and that it is just an alphabet. You have to understand that it's a syllabary, and even then... it's just one tiny portion of the language, and that you need to understand all of the portions to read write and speak the language. Even though one can learn to speak the language without ever writing it. It helps to know the written language to be able to think in it.

  • Totally agree with @vicharris here. This kind of info is very helpful.
    And as I've stated a couple of times, tech wise, shian's FilmSchool tutorials have been much more useful than the years spent at filmmaking school, where I've learnt a lot about theory (and i'm grateful for that) but very little practical stuff.

  • Yes, but monitors don't help when all you have with you is just the camera.

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