I saw a bit of unresolved confusion here, so I hope this helps:
To address the OP @willianaleman , the 11-16 is a constant aperture lens, and absolutely behaves as such. The issue here is the adapter. The cheap adapters often will allow some play between the adapter and the lens, which means there is room for the aperture pin to slide around during zoom. Turn the zoom ring one way, it will open the aperture slightly, turn in the other, it will close slightly. I have a couple of the fotodiox adapters myself and one has more play than the other. They're pretty sloppily made, and the resistance from the zoom ring is definitely enough to make this happen. On this lens, the focus is pretty light, and unlikely to affect anything, but on other lenses, especially AFS ones, the stiffer focus can even effect the aperture during focus pulls.
The other thing is about the distortion--it's very minimal! There is some barrel/pincushion, but there are beloved primes that have much more.
There's a term missing from this discussion, and it is "rectilinear disortion".
Rectilinear distortion is what you get on ultra-wide lenses. And it is not a bug, it's a feature. One that you learn to use, or avoid. But it's not a design flaw at all.
Lenses this wide (even on m43 this is a damn wide lens) don't look so hot when panned. They're much better for establishing/static shots or extreme "perspective distortion" where things get close to the lens and pull the audience into the action.
When you use them for panning without action, things get weird. See Terry Gilliams Brazil for examples of wide pans in interiors. It gives the viewer a sea-sick feeling or un-real-ness. It's intentional in the case of Brazil, but even then it was actually criticized by some.
See what I mean? Pans just look odd on ultra-wides, when not used for effect. Not as a hard and fast rule, but most of the time yeah.
Anyway, it's good gear. But it's not what most people expect when they first start playing with it. The OP's preference for shorter lengths is what clued me in.
Please, all adapters talk in appropriate places, here just leave some link.
Thanks for your recommendation, I want to try the cheapest one first even though I know that my chances are slim. Maybe I'll get lucky, to get even for my 200$ Voigtlander Nikon F - M4/3 that focuses past infinity.
@nomad Thanks for the reply. Just to be clear, does the Canon version focus the Canon way or the Nikon way?
I second the Novaflex. Especially for this lens. I've tried everyone out there and finally went with the Nova. Some guy is selling two on here for a good price. Imight actually pick up a second one for my B cam.
It might seem overly expensive, but get the novoflex, it's the best there is.
Yep, it does.
Does anybody have the Canon version? Does it focus the opposite way?
@vicharris So what you're saying is all the distance numbers are to the right of the infinity sign?
Left is closer, right is infinity on Nikon mount.
Doesn't it depend on the mount? My Nikon turns the same way as all my Nikon which is opposite Canon of course.
Can someone tell me which way the 11-16mm focuses? Do you turn left or right to focus closer?
Hi, I recently got this amazing lens, but I am still waiting for an adapter (Nikon G - MFT).
Right now I am using it with my Voigtlander Nikon F to MFT adapter, but I had to jam the aperture lever in fixed open position. It is great at f/2.8.
I have ordered cheap Fotga adapter to try it out, many people are satisfied with it. It is only a dumb metal ring, if they cut it right it should work ok.
Tokina 11-16 completely covers full frame somewhere around 15mm, wider than that it vignettes, I have put it on nikon film camera just to look through it.
Amazing lens, focus is very smooth and precise, zoom also.
Yup, it's electronically controlled aperture, so G.
hi guys, just making sure, the Tokina 11-16 Nikon version IS Nikon G? that is why Nikon G adapter works with it?
The only problem with using this lens supports is that there's no room on the rails. Between a FF and MB, there's no room left to squeeze it in where it touches a solid part of the lens. There's no way one would work with a new rokinon 85mm or 24mm cine.
I was dead set on getting the Tokina, but I opted for the slightly extra width with the Sigma 10-20 f3.5 . I was looking ahead to my ordered BMCC and I kept thinking that I didn't like going full wide at 25.3mm (due to crop) and for some reason, I wanted to be more wide than that. It may sound ridiculous, but that was my reasoning. I LOVE my Tokina 24-70 ATXII, and I love my Sigma 10-20 just as much. Not to mention, I'm getting the extra 4mm on the tight end of the glass.
Not sure I'd trust the adapters with tripod mounts, minus the high end ones. I know on those types for the B4/ENG lenses, sellers are saying they have been discontinued due to the small screws breaking from the weight. Not an issue for plastic lenses or primes, but if you're using a big, heavy 2.8 lens, it will definitely stress the tripod mount. Just bought this instead:
Bonus that it works with any camera and almost any lens, so it's more useful than a specific mount adapter, and you can adjust it to properly distribute the weight onto the tripod. You can even reverse it for shorter lenses. I've got the usual Nikon adapter already, and it works fine:
There isn't too much info available on the Mk2 version, but here's a Ken Rockwell review: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tokina/11-16mm-ii.htm
He says the optical formula is the same, but that the coating has improved to reduce flare. It looks like it still flares and ghosts though.
@tmcat Look for the one I posted earlier with the tripod mount. I've been using it just fine for some time. I did have to play with the brass rings inside the adapter to get it snug on the lens but it's fine now. All of my glass focuses to infinity and beyond now; Actually, my new Rokinon 24mm Cine T1.5 hits every focus mark on the lens! First time this has ever happened. The only real problem is that it does not lock tight with the cam body. Pretty much all these cheap adapters have some sort of downfall. I've gone through many. The Novaflex will always be great but I really felt I needed something else to lock the whole thing down. That's why I went with the tripod mount version.
So are people satisfied with the fotodiox adapter for this lens, or have they all bought the novaflex adapter out of frustration? I'm 2 weeks away from buying the 11-16 and wondering what adapter I should be getting.
Yep but I would get one with the tripod mount. My camera rocks all over the place when I pull focus with one of these. Especially with a lens like the Rokinon 35mm.
@jirab you cannot set the aperture in a nikon camera and then put it in a gh2 body. The nikon G mount lenses have a tiny lug which closes to f22 by default. You need an adapter for "Nikon G mount lenses" they have aperture ring Like vicharris said. http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B003Y2XN9G/ref=pd_cp_p_0
It goes back to f/22 because the iris tab on the lens is spring loaded. When you disengage it from the body the spring snaps it closed. Do you have the adapter ring for the iris turned the right way when you attach the Tokina to it? Does the adapter work with any other Nikon mount lenses? I might be confused as well here. This should be a very simple procedure. Can you post a pick or link to the adapter you're using?
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