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Driftwood Settings: Series 6 - COMP Apocalypse Now, Cluster v6, GalaXian GX1, Sedna, Canis, etc...
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  • One test, one scene Natalie. Proof is in the quatisation results, shadows, dealing with banding if you want a measure. Send me the mts files and I'll show you. However, I will not dispute if the scene is well shot then it can be difficult to subjectively tell the difference at first glance. Later on in the grading you discover if you want to push things more stock images fall apart.

    Finally, isn't the GH2 a wonderful beast? No one is forcing anyone to use a hack. If you're happy with stock stick to it.

  • anyway, believe ore not ! but in reality you cant see no difference to the original Firmware ..

  • The truth is, the hacks are better than stock. Truth is also in the grading. Watch the stock/low bitrate ones fall apart. More info in the shadows, better motion. Intra editing. Lots of new people on tonight. Welcome.

  • It would be interesting to expand this test to include more patches. I am convinced that I can tell a significant difference between Sedna and Sanity, for example, but that could be at least partly due to the fact that I only use Sanity on less dynamic scenes.

  • @kong Beautiful mate. Hope you got that one on a Driftwood patch. It's a total winner. Stunning

  • @cbranding yeah sounds only happen at powering up with or without lens. Then i hear a fan like sound! Also the stabilizer hand goes to red even if i'm good to shoot. Totally sucks :-( I made a post here! Any help would be welcomed http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/3955/gh2-making-a-weird-sound.#Item_1

  • Any Scene is correctly labeld.. If both files arent named differently , nobody cant see any different...

    QED

  • @cantsin - Interesting test. There is a disturbingly small difference between the two. Too bad he labelled the comparisons. If you want a real test just label them A and B and see if anybody can correctly identify which is which.

  • I got this video in May during the eclipse, but how do I check to see if it's one of Driftwood's patch. I have the original MTS file. Thanks.

  • Here's interesting side-to-side footage of the unhacked GH2 vs. the GH2 with Quantum v9b, shot with a dual camera rig and identical lenses:

    I wonder whether using high bitrate hacks only makes a significant quality difference for grading and shooting in low light?!?

  • @Diffusion33 - It sounds like the ultrasonic sensor vibrator is stuck on. Either that or the lens's stabilizer has gone nuts. Does the sound happen even with no lens attached?

  • @Killagram wow, how did I miss that, hah. Thanks. I read the post and then went through reading everyone else's posts, must have just slipped my mind during that time.

  • @sanzadez man you should really take your time and read the post properly!!!!! It's not that bloody difficult? Capture a minute long sunrise or sunset on A GHx Gxx camera with one of Driftwood's setting/patch and submit it by uploading to youtube/vimeo and linking to this thread before the 18th of August. Top 3 will be put to the vote. If you the win your shot will be used by driftwood in is forthcoming film 'Swim to Land'. Simples, no? Anyway I'm totally gutted i cant take part. I switched on my GH2 this morning to go and take a timelapse and my GH2 started to make this weired fucking electronic sound when powering up. Kept poweing up then off sound keeps happening. Strange!!!!

  • @sanzadez "Maximum duration of film = one minute"

  • @Driftwood
    Could you clarify a little more on the Sunrise/Sunset? How long do you want it to be? The reason I ask is because I might have a few clips from the beach of a sunset, but it just captures the end of it, so the clips only a minute or so long. Or are you looking for a long clip (most likely spanned) of the Sun high in the sky all the way to setting/ the sun just rising all the way until its high in the sky? Just wondering so I can know if I'm able to use anything I already have, or if I need to film something new.

  • I decided it was worth while to post the untouched MTS files from my previous post in the previous thread. Reason being, I encoded the final project 2 times to ease up the strain on my PC when I sped the frame rates up in the editor. The originals look 10 times better IMHO. Anyways here they are. Canon FD 35mm Concave (the radioactive one) and Sedna A.

    and the final slightly graded project again so you do not have to hop around to compare the quality.

  • this is my first movie with cluster 6 'DREWnet', profile smooth, pancake 20mm, hyperprime 12mm.

  • @Driftwood. Thanks sir, I always misunderstood this lens, almost all scenes are from Canon FD f/2.8, @ f/4-f/8 and a cheap variable ND filter.

  • @sakattaq76 Looks good. Quite like the look of that FD24mm lens, may have to fork out and buy one...

  • Another pointless video I shot on a beach last week! Driftwood Cluster v6 "Drewnet" settings Vibrant -2, 24p. Canon FD 24mm & Canon FD 50mm except last shot with Lumix 14-45mm. Vimeo makes the waves motion a little bit strange, although the original footage is great!

    https://vimeo.com/groups/gh2/videos/45957697

  • Ive made it easier for the lazy ones who dont wake up in the mornings. Ive now made the competition sunrise or sunset! :-)

  • Sunrise here in the UK I don't think I have seen the Sun for all the Rain. I will have to put an Orange on a stick

  • Or @driftwood could change the subject of the shoot to something else unless it has to be sunrise...

  • @nomad Sounds like you meant the opposite: a wide angle lens would focus the heat less, according to your argument. :)

    Anyway, my own experience mirrors that of Nomad. I have shot hundreds of thousands of pictures of the sun each year, mostly with the 50D, and frankly you have a much greater risk of damaging the sensor through improper cleaning than through timelapse photography of the sun.

    When I shoot the sun with a telephoto lens on the GH2, I typically use an ND. When I shoot with a very wide angle, I often do not. This is not gospel.

    When it comes to camera damage concerns, consider the cost of repair work for your camera vs. the value you attribute to the shoot(s) you would like to attempt and the math should be easy to figure out.

    For me, I stopped worrying about kind of sensor damage years ago but it is definitely an indvidual decision.

  • Rather shoot tele than wide – if the image of the sun on the sensor is very small, the energy is more concentrated.

    Regarding filters: any good ND plus IR filtering should be fine, companies like Schneider or Formatt are offering combinations.

    That said, I've shot a lot of time lapses with the rising sun in the frame with my 7D without ever burning it.