Thanks Scot!

Did you buy it HERE, or elsewhere? Is the one you own a US Unit, but still spans? But you're saying yours is the original Firmware?

Thanks, Erik

@quadrabay

Have no idea that this means.

You have two choices, you can buy the one from Vitaliy that works, or you can buy the other ones that don't work, although they might work, except probably not, then sell those on eBay and buy the one that does work. It's really a question of time and money.

You can also call up Panasonic or a camera store, and get a random answer from someone making $2/hour, or you can flip a coin, or you can read the confusing and contradictory stuff in the press releases, then flip the coin, the buy the wrong camera, then sell it on eBay.

I figure my time is worth something, so I skipped all the BS part. Just sayin'.

You could also wait for the GM7 or the GH5

This has to be one of the most cryptic threads ever here on P-V. So if I need 4K 25p and 1080 50p without any time limits in a good codec, is the camera deal here on the forum the one to choose? A couple of years before one could get Panasonic bodies (i.e G6) from Hong Kong (PAL 50Hz country) with no time limits.

Thanks Fahrenheit!

I'm hoping someone out there knows which one "might" have the capabilities we're discussing in 4K-Land as well. If I'm only getting an AVCHD cam, I'll snag yet another AMAZING GH-1 for $200, as those babies are MUCH more amazing than folks realize...ESPECIALLY for Stills. My GH-2 is sitting in a bag somewhere because its inner focusing was NOT satisfactory for me, and it has some sort of AWFUL ISO noise in the upper left corner that makes the cam un-useable for me. I'm actually afraid to sell it because I don't know if that's a standard issue with the GH-2, or if mine is defective somehow.

Thanks again, Erik

@quadrabay

People who replied actually made tests :-) Panasonic girls did not.

@quadrabay

It stops at 30 min. One on our deals don't/

Hi Everyone, I'm seriously considering grabbing a G7, as they're obtainable NEW for $600-ish, which is very attractive to me right now.

On the subject of it's 30 Minute Recording Limit, I'm seeing Confusing Information on Panasonics's Site (which I was directed to after asking a Seller about this, as he was showing 100 Minutes of Continuous Recording on his Listing.

Here is the info from Panasonic...

NOTE- Maximum time to record motion pictures continuously with [MP4] in [4K] is 29 minutes 59 seconds.

NOTE- You can continuously record a motion picture with its size set to [4K] in [MP4] or [4K PHOTO] without a pause even if the motion picture exceeds 4GB. However, the recorded content has to be played back as multiple files. (Isn't this what ALL HD cams do... Multiple Files that play back as one on the timeline???)

NOTE- Maximum time to record motion pictures continuously with [MP4] in [FHD] [HD] [VGA] is 29 minutes 59 seconds or up to 4 GB.

NOTE- Maximum time to record motion pictures continuously with [AVCHD] is 29 minutes 59 seconds in Europe.

Can someone confirm...does this camera SPAN 4gb files like most cams out there, or does it literally STOP after 4gb/30 mins?

I could use this cam with or without, but I'd LOVE IT if it WOULD keep recording.

Thanks so much, Erik

I think this is a true bargain that has been over looked as well. If you feel your missing the GH4 VLog hype go to the "GH4 Firmware 2.3, V-log for $99, Epic Panasonic marketing fail" thread about page 42. Balaser created some LUTS to bring CineD into a log space for the GH4. It seems to work great for the G7 as well. The opinion is the GH4 and G7 UHD are almost identical with some saying G7 is a little better. I don't have a GH4 to compare but these LUTS seem to work perfectly with the G7 CineD and are worth checking out. Make sure to follow his instructions for setting up CineD to use his LUTS correctly.

I agree, but it is simple enough to use the wireless app as a work around. I have to say, I prefer it the way it is. When I'm in a hurry, I just want to see the Aperture in Aperture mode instantly without wondering which is which. On my Olympus, it always takes me a fraction of a second to grab the right number and the right wheel--a side effect of having lots of different cameras.

When I want to look at both settings, I use M mode, and if I want to keep an eye on S & A while in one of the modes I can see it on the wireless app. It would be nice if you could customize it.

95 percent of the time I'm in M mode, but for Theatre work you have to have exposure compensation of some kind, but then of course I don't care what the camera does as long as it quickly adjusts to lighting effects.

You won't see it on the display, but it's straightforward to figure. Ideally, you could push a dedicated button and see all the data--I often set the aperture then just flip over to M.

Yup. If you set the ISO you will know the missing figure, but if Auto ISO is engaged, I suppose it would be hard to predict.

@Vesku @Fahrenheit Short answer: it all works.

On my G7, when you turn the Mode dial to Movie, you can easily touch the icon in the upper left hand corner for an instant menu for PASM. If you select, for example A for Aperture, the screen changes so only aperture and ISO etc are visible, that is, the shutter speed indicator disappears.

Either before recording or even during recording, operating the thumb wheel changes the aperture, and, depending on how you set your screen (eg, real preview, not automatic brightness) the screen briefly goes darker and lighter as you roll the aperture, or, in S mode, if you roll the shutter, then the exposure equalizes. At a certain point the camera will not balance the exposure, presumably owing to an ISO limit.

In manual mode, you can change both aperture and shutter, and you can even change them simultaneously by using your thumb and finger on the two wheels.

Another way to look at it: if you use the PASM icon whilst in M mode to change to A or S, one of the indicators disappears, so in A mode the S disappears, and vice versa. In P mode they both disappear. But everything else, histogram, exposure +/- ISO color mode, battery, remaining time, focus type, etc, everything else that was on the screen in M mode just stays right where it was. So, very easy in all respects.

If you are shooting under challenging lighting, you can also set the ISO to auto in A & S mode. This allows you to dial in exposure compensation, for example in theatrical lighting. Auto ISO is not, however available in M mode.

Note that if you set ISO to "AUTO", the camera will not display the ISO. Ideally, the display should go from 200 down to "AUTO, but of course if you hit the ISO button it pops right up. Once you set the number of the ISO, the number appears, and stays on the screen.

Note also that if you tap the display button a few times, the live view is replaced by a nice big black and white screen that shows all the settings, and you can change several of these even while recording. On this screen, the numerical displays turns black for the mode which is unavailable, so, for example you can't see the aperture.

If, for example, you stop the aperture all the way down so the iris is almost closed, then flip the cam into S mode, you can see (and hear) the iris opening until it reaches the proper exposure. So, in S mode, the cam changes the iris automatically, just like it should.

Ideally, the actual iris variable could be displayed as a greyed out info bar, but most people who want that are going to use full manual. I actually find it helpful to just see the one number I need to change in S or A mode in the very few times I use it (where I need exposure comp).