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Driftwood Cluster X Series 4:│Moon T8│Spizz T7
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  • I tried this gamma shift method + Neat denoiser in this shaky, out of focus, blurry video

  • @paulo I tend to shoot slightly underexposed and when its an overcast day. The screenshot I've attached is the results of that.

    Screen Shot 2014-11-01 at 10.12.11 AM.jpg
    1920 x 1080 - 1M
  • Tymeorama, Gardner, Nomad: I guess good ideas are showing here. (sorry my english). I think this is important because GH2 has good image (sharp, detais, etc) and excelent patches but the only fault is little DR in my opinion. Thanks a lot. And 'cinema mode' hasn't it less contrast than other 'modes'? If yes, would it helps to achieve more DR feeling?

  • Use smooth, + all -2. Cinema picture style shows less DR (crushed blacks+blown highs)

  • "Space" does not span. 25FPS / 448000 AC3 Bitrate on the usual 64GB Sanddisk Extreme.

  • @ Frame driftwood 'space' AC3 bitrate is 192000. Does it not span at the default rate? I doubt Nick would test at 448000.

  • thank you @driftwood for Cluster X This was shot entirely on Nebula T8

  • Is there any reason this hack would disable HDMI output? I had never tried it before I patched and now having purchased a mini to HDMI adapter my projector says no signal from the cable...?

  • I have a small question: which is better in terms of quality, the T8 Space or Flowmotion v2 ?

  • So far I think Moon T7 is the best hack out there, no question.

  • I'd have to agree, revitdazio. Even compared to Moon T8, I think T7 is better.

  • Moon T5 or T7 are my favourites. I also use a GOLGOP3 patch which is great too, and spans forever.

  • Moon T8 - simply because files are smaller and I can use it without any errors on decent class10 non-95mb cards (toshiba and sandisk 30mb). As for the quality - all Moons are great, I see absolutely no difference between t7 or t8.

  • I've installed Moon T8 (the normal one). Also I have downloaded some comparison footage between T7 and T8 that someone posted here a few pages ago, and I fail to see a difference between T7 and T8, actually I can't figure out which is which.

    With Flowmotion v2.02 I got a lot of digital rain in the footage that was underexposed, but with T8 I got none.

    Here are a couple of frames shoot with T8 (both) at 24p H, ISO 640, Nostalgic picture profile with -2 -2 -2 -2.

    00001.JPG
    1920 x 1080 - 306K
    00002.JPG
    1920 x 1080 - 254K
  • I fail to see a difference between T7 and T8, actually I can't figure out which is which.

    The street footage is a very tough call, I admit. I was looking at 400% magnification in the shadows and even then wasn't positive about the difference.

    But the two shots of the flower came though noticeably different at normal viewing on a calibrated 50" plasma. One was very clearly superior to my eye. Not so for you?

  • That difference might have more to do with the fact that you've changed slightly the camera position, angle, focus, and so on, because you have changed the firmware between shoots. I don't think is the T8 / T7 difference. We would need two exact frames for comparison, otherwise we fool ourselves. If there is a real difference, probably is minor and very hard to spot. Once T8 installed, I don't think it is worth going to T7, because T8 is definitely in the same league of quality as T7.

  • Moon T8 truly is marvellous, colourful and fluid, dare I say one of the most stable Driftwood patches that I've had the chance to try so far. In-cam replay is great too (Sandisk 95Mb/s 32GB U1).

    EXCEPT in FH mode, where in-cam never seem possible unless I turn off and on again / or shoot another small file... FSH replays has always replayed well so far, much more so than FH replays! Wouldn't it be possible to decrease modify moon T8 somehow, while keeping everything else in balance?

  • That difference might have more to do with the fact that you've changed slightly the camera position, angle, focus, and so on, because you have changed the firmware between shoots.

    I don't believe so. The camera position and angle aren't the 'difference' I see.

  • Even if you use the same patch and you only slightly change the camera position, maybe a few centimeters closer to the subject or farther away, or a little bit to the left or right, it is enough to give you false impressions. The light falls a little bit different, the shadows form at a slightly different angle, the focus area is slightly off compared to the previous shoot, it can be a very tricky business. And from what I saw in those flower shoots, the camera angle was significantly different. Since in the street shoots you could not tell the difference, and since in the flower shoots the camera was at a clearly different angle, it's a 50% - 50% chance to be either a difference between T7 and T8 or just a bad shoot. If there really are significant differences between T7 and T8, they should be present in any shoots, including in the street ones, and that is clearly not the case here. Most likely the flower shoots are misleading.

  • IMHO, that's quite academic discussion about "pixel peeping", nothing that matters in practical shooting (and I'm saying this as a guy with academic education). OTOH, T8 was stable as a rock for me too in 24p, while T7 was not always as secure (rare cases, though).

    If I need stability in other modes, I use one of the specialized combinations by Driftwood. It's a limitation in the camera, nothing that a setting could cure.

  • I've downloaded again those comparison footage and took a better look at the flower shoots. It is clear that in one flower shoot the image was slightly out of focus compared to the other one, and that gives the false impression of T8 not being as good as T7 (the first two frames). This becomes clearly apparent in the next flower comparison shoot (frames 3 and 4), because the flower match in sharpness this time on both shoots, and the same goes for the street footage. Look at the bricks on the distant wall, if the T8 was so bad in comparison to T7 as shown in the first two frames, then in the street footage those bricks could not have had the same sharpness, or they clearly do.

    It is not an accurate test by any means because the camera angle, distance, focus and exposure varies.

    Here are the frames:

    Flower 01.JPG
    1920 x 1080 - 210K
    Flower 02.JPG
    1920 x 1080 - 242K
    Flower 03.JPG
    1920 x 1080 - 308K
    Flower 04.JPG
    1920 x 1080 - 310K
    street 01.JPG
    1920 x 1080 - 319K
    street 02.JPG
    1920 x 1080 - 325K
  • It is clear that in one flower shoot the image was slightly out of focus compared to the other one

    That's my point. It wasn't. That's the patch, and what I was seeing in all the clips shot that day, not just the ones I uploaded. (Yes, I see it in both flower shots on my TV.) There seems to be a 'smoothness' to T8, which you find find others reporting as well, and which I find translates to 'less detail' and which (I believe) you falsely attribute to being 'out of focus'.

    On the street shots, I saw this 'smoothness' in the shadow detail more than anything, but like I said, only at 400%.

  • Maybe you're right, anyway, I've installed T7, don't want to take any chances. Thank you for your help.

  • slightly OT, I wonder what Nick is doing these days:)