To each his own - if auto ISO works best for you and your shooting situation, more power to you. The few times I've shot live theater I got perfectly fine results with a fast lens, ISO 1250, exposing for the actors' faces, and Neat Video later to clean up the shadows. I'm not sure how auto-ISO would improve upon that, and I hate that ramping up, ramping down effect when I see auto-ISO video. It's worse than hunting AF.

The analogy I always come back to is the auto-everything mode on DSLRs. How many friends have I known who went out and bought a 5D because they wanted a "real camera" only to leave it in auto-everything mode and shoot medium size JPGs with the long end of the kit zoom? Hundreds. How many great looking photos have I seen from any of these people? Zero. The best looking footage always comes from folks who go all-manual, learn how to get the very best out of what are often quite pedestrian cameras, and approach the shoot itself as just the beginning of the image creation process. And the same thing goes for video, IME.

You do know the GH2 has a live EVF, yes? Better to treat it as a modern digital camera rather than a film camera. Rather than estimate what a given f-stop and ISO will look like, you can make these decisions in real time. If you don't care for f11 on a lens, you'll see whatever issues you're trying to avoid while adjusting the aperture ring. Using the RJ Speedbooster I usually stay somewhere between short of wide open and well short of fully stopped down. Eyeballing it usually winds up with the iris stopped down to between f2.8 and f5.6.

It sounds like we're approaching the GH2 from different backgrounds. You sound like you shoot the GH2 more like a consumer camcorder than a cinema camera. I have never and would never use auto-ISO, and could care less what the little number is on the lens barrel - I'm looking at the image and making exposure and aperture decisions based on how deep I want the DOF to be. I never think, "I want this shot to be f4".

Yes, the aperture control on the RJ Speedbooster is longer throw than the regular FD adapters that have "open/close" rings. It's actually usable as a continuous aperture ring, and was a pleasant surprise when I first got the RJ.

@kurth You sound like you don't own the RJ speedbooster and don't have much experience with different adapters except for the one you have. Some like my Cieco7 adapters are solid 1-piece construction without an open/close ring, others have the control, some are short throw like my "dumb" RJ FD adapter, others like the RJ Speedbooster allow for aperture control just as long throw as you'd get from the lens's own ring. It's a pleasure to use and works just as nicely as a declicked lens.

The aperture control on the RJ FD-m43 Speedbooster is a very good thing, as it gives any FD/FL lens clickless continuously variable aperture. You close your lens up all the way (f16, f22, etc.) and let the RJ control aperture. Smooth, stepless aperture from wide open to closed down. It's like getting your lenses declicked for free. And the smoothness of the aperture control on the RJ is even smoother and nicer to work with than the one on my "dumb" FD adapter I bought from RJ a few years ago.

Just a reminder re the purpose/use of an aperture ring: one response came from @kurth on 10 Feb (page 9 of this thread):

@MarcioK well, maybe I live in a limited world but I've never seen an fd adapter with aperture control, nor can I even fathom a guess why you'd want one. Nor can I find one with a little googling. I see some fd to eos with focus confirmation. All fd lenses have an aperture ring . The nikon G to m43 focal reducer adapters have one 'cause alot of nikon g lenses don't have aperture rings and must be set in camera. The eos/m43 focal reducer adapter doesn't, so you'd either have to use a nd, or change the eos lens aperture on an eos camera. I'm sure RJ had a reason why they couldn't do the same on eos.

Maybe someone could come up with fstop inserts like lensbabies ?

I personally wish RJ had made the eos/m43 just like the nikon g....but they didn't ask me. Are you sure you're not thinking of "eos" to m43 or nex lens adapters having aperture control ? There's alot of eos to m43 adapters with control. I've seen a hundred of those. And I'm still tryin' to understand your "function" explanation. I think you mean "fully close" because you'd normally open the lens wide open, and adjust the aperture on the adapter

FWIW

that there is no FD version with a tripod mount yet

You are correct, it is without tripod mount.

Well, good luck. If you do get the RJ FD booster, be careful, there's not a lot of room for dicking around, it's a pretty compact, tightly packed piece of kit. Do yourself a favor though and pick up a cheap FD 24mm f2.8 while you're at it. I predict you'll be so gassed by the combo you'll stop worrying about how to shoehorn different lens mounts together.

Sounds too ghetto for my blood. I just got the RJ FD booster and the last thing I'd do to it would be mess around anywhere near the glass element. I'm also leery of "reversible" lens mods that are only reversible in theory, never in reality. How many DIY declicked lenses (because you NEED continuously variable aperture for backyard cat YouTubes) are sitting on shelves in pieces, gathering dust?

The thing is, there's "works" and then there's "works". It's like the C-mount kids, never giving up on the dream of cheap plentiful fast wide glass for m43. Yeah, it kinda sorta works, as in, there's an image on the sensor alright and it's recognizable. But no infinity focus and it's blurry on the right side of the frame because the physical alignment of the lens is off because the adapter needed to be adapted and the only adapter on hand to adapt the adapter was a Dremel but hey it "works". Pieces of haphazardly shoved felt between a small lens mount and a large camera yaw do not "work". They suck on an axis.

I just don't see the point of "investing in a lens mount" and then trying to shoehorn the rest of your setup to fit that mount. If you really must stick with your Konicas, ask RJ to make a Konica AR booster. Or get a few FDs and his his FD booster. Cross-adapting different mounts introduces new room for misalignment and suboptimal image, which kind of defeats the purpose of spending serious money on a lens booster in the first place.

@Vitaliy_Kiselev Thank You! :)
So I guess I was seeing it correctly, the choice for Nikon lenses to M43 is either aperture control (covering F/G series lenses) or with tripod mount and no aperture control (F series lenses only)...
Good to know -- thanks again!

@imaginario Are you also thinking that it is necessary to choose between aperture control ring OR tripod mount on the RJ lens turbo? I am having trouble understanding what the options are from the information provided here... Thanks!

@Shaveblog I heard that people did this conversion in "former" times. Searching for a lens doctor who can do this for me. I will also preliminary check if it can be done reversible because I like my T3n...