Look like a bestial improvement in video. But I have a question, as owner of a 5N I know the cameras from Sony suffer of overheat when recording video, have improved this or continues overheating?

http://www.optyczne.pl/index.php?test=aparat&test_ap=273

No problems will do so in the week when I get a bit more free time. Uncompressed 10bit would be a bit huge so will up some HQ (422) or avid DNxHD

@Mimirsan please do upload external/original footage.

Sony has a real hit with the Alpha 6000. It offers a good, advanced user interface (with previous flaws now fixed), excellent versatility, very good overall performance, highly competitive autofocus for both stationary and moving subjects, excellent video capabilities and great images.

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/sony-a6000/sony-a6000-shooters-report-part-iii.htm

@apefos,

I hoped that they helped you and other members trying to decide on getting the A6000 to make a somewhat informed decision. I think the A6000 is very good for the 1080P camera that it is. It won't outperform the Gh4 with its 4K capturing capabilities and High Bit rate 1080p. It won't also outperform the A7S with it Slog-2, supposed 15.3 stops dynamic range, XAVC 50mbps codec and full frame sensor. However, for now, its all the camera that I need.

@apefos,

The first link I posted was for,I think, only 15 clips because I forgot to highlight all of the clips in the folder that they were in. The new link above is for all 26 clips.

I hadn't used any thing but the "Neutral" "Light" and "Potrait". I always try "Neutral" ,Which seems to be in every camera, and "Portrait", which was available in the D7000, D7100 and I believe in the 7D and GH1 I owned.

"Neutral", in the A6000, looked good when I first started using the camera. However, after using it for a while, I found it somewhat hard to get the rich vibrant, but not overly saturated, colors that I liked. I also thought the "Neutral" crushed the blacks a little much and that the overall image wasn't dynamic enough.

"Light" I tried and as you mentioned it seems to increase the highlights and i believed the mid-tones as well. This was good with scenes that had a low amount of contrast but bad in already contrasty scenes.

"Night", as you mentioned, is good for night scenes. Scenes where you need the shadows lifted but the highlights controlled to possibly control the "blooming" of light sources at night.

"Standard" I like for its color in the D7000 and D7100. However, I always thought it crushed the blacks too much so I never used it. I haven't spent much time with this profile in the A6000, but since you seem to think so much of it I will give it a hard look.

"Portrait" is the picture profile I am liking now because I think it gives one of the best dynamic ranges. I like the colors and I like the separation in the highlights and shadows, as well as the amount of detail in the shadows. I also like its color accuracy when used with "Auto" white balance in sunny day scenes. The only problem that I have found with the "Portrait" profile is that it seems to "over saturate" greens on low contrast days (cloudy or raining days) and it seems to push greens more toward blue.

I still believe that it is best to get as close in-camera to the final look you want than to shot very flat and hope that you can get the final look you want in post. Some guys can do a marvelous job in post other guys just turn it into shit. Some might say I am disciplined for knowing what I what ahead of time, others might say I just a lazy fuck. I think I am both. I try to do as little in post as I possibly can.

I think the A6000 does very well in lowlight, when used with The DRO function. However, I still don't think it will be any where near the same class as the Alpha 7S but only time will tell.

@apefos,

Here is the link again:

http://we.tl/CcSOAanVyN

I think wetransfer only keeps files for a limited time so I uploaded the files again.

I have always believed that it was better to get as close in-camera to the final look that you wanted instead of shooting a "flat" Milky image. Then you have process a codec that was never meant to be heavily post processed to begin with.

You would have increase saturation more than normal, due to using the lowest in-camera saturation settings. Next, you have to increase contrast more than normal, due to using the lowest in-camera contrast settings. Further, you have to increase sharpness more than normal, due to using the lowest in-camera sharpness settings because to most, in theory, all in-camera sharpening is "Bad".

Now this all hinges of the belief that everyone has the same level of post-processing skills, especially In the area of sharpening. There are guys who simply use a "sharpening" effect with levels 1-5 or 0-100. There are guys who use "Unsharp Mask" With settings for "Amount", "Radius" and "Threshold". Then you have the guys who use multiple adjustment layers, masking, with some exotic 10 or 15 stage sharpening technique that uses program functions most have never heard of let alone ever used. To these group of guys my thing is, If you have to go through all this to get the sharpness you desire from your camera, the camera that you are using might not be the camera for you to begin with. Better lenses may also be the answer.

Judge for yourself what you believe can best be done in-camera and what can best be done in post.

@Apefos,

I am still new to Sony products and knowing that I can potentially recover info. out of clipped whites from the A6000 is very useful info. Thanks

@EYESOUL,

No problem man.

@EYESOUL,

Yes, Like @APEFOS , I found leaving the contrast at "0" and adjusting the DRO as better at least in "day" image capture.

When I used the D7000 and D7100, I always used the Neutral and "-3" contrast settings. This was great for a wider flatter look, however it always seemed to add more noise in the blacks on the D7000. It added noise along with FPN(Fixed Pattern Noise) on my D7100. I really didn't have a choice because the D7000 and D7100 had no dynamic range optimizer function to help them out. I thought I found the answer in being able to create a better dynamic range custom Picture Profile with the included program from Nikon, but I ended up making things worse.

I did tests at night with the DRO function off with only the contrast at "-3" to give me a wider dynamic range. The -3 contrast image looked great in the area of Dynamic range , but it looked "too" flat when I got it into my NLE and it seem to expose more noise than I had seen with "0" contrast. When I adjusted the the contrast in post, because I thought it looked too flat, I ended up loosing the shadow info I tried to preserve.

With a "0" contrast in the A6000 I solved two problems. First, with the "0" contrast I got the black levels I wanted in-camera without the need to crush the blacks in post. Second, because of the black levels that I already captured in-camera I could hide the noise more. Also, with the different DRO level settings, I got the wider dynamic range I was looking for without having to adjust the "master" curve in my NLE color corrector.

I put two clips into Final Cut Pro 7. The first had settings of -3 contrast, -1 saturation(don't want to loose too much color info) and -2 sharpness, DRO (off). The other clip had settings of 0-contrast, 0-saturation and -2 sharpness, DRO 5. I put the first clip in the "Viewer" window and the other DRO enabled clip in the "Canvas" window.

I set both windows to show the images first at %100 and next at %200. I moved the clips around to display the same shadow area. I looked at the shadows area in both clips at both %100 and %200 and I couldn't see any difference in the clip with settings of 0-contrast, 0-saturation and -2 sharpness, DRO 5 and the clip with settings of -3 contrast, -1 saturation, -2 sharpness and DRO (off) in the area of noise. So if I can get the in-camera contrast I want with the dynamic range I want with little to no increase in noise, why not do it.

Again, my results me differ from others so you might want to experiment with different Contrast settings in conjunction with DRO level settings to find out what works best for you.

@bleach551 thanks a lot for the in depth info. I come from 7D,D5200,GH2 so I'm still trying to get a grip on settings to produce my desired image. So if I hear you correct instead of decreasing your contrast and applying DRO you prefer to leave it centered then add DRO if you choose to use it? I would think in low light situations using DRO with this particular codec would not be such a good idea,do to potential noise introduction in the shadows. Have you found with contrast centered using DRO in low light there are real benefits?