Yes, exactly what I expected...

Well, why does everyone write one and the same words and phrases of what has been heard or read? But never self experienced or made? And everytime the "Musgo" is the only example given by everyone as a prove?!? Give your own GH2 work as a prove. Actually, maybe the best GH2 production is "Mandorla", but a professional equipment and only pro cine lenses are used. "Musgo" is also one of the best GH2 productions, but the look there is not generally because of the lenses, it's the post editing. The a la Shadows and Highlights/Unsharp filters is what makes the look, don't you see, although it's over used in my opinion.

At the end, to be clearer for all who still misunderstood my point: take a frame from any kind of GH2 video, scene, settings, etc. and try to make it anyhow closer to the characteristics of the frame below! No need excuses or explanations, just do it and upload it here. Then all of you will surely get what I meant saying "material depth". Chauncy is close to.

I think you're talking about depth in the image. And any effect a hack would have is minor compared to depth creating lighting assisted by grading.

What makes video look like video is too sharp, too artificial, no softness from the highlights to midtones and shadows, poor highlight rolloff. A hack would help by holding up better in grading. Looking at the work of many in this forum, if things are done right, the gh2 can look as much like film as any dslr and many cinematic cameras.

But why pick such an in descript film to compare to? The after one looks more like the film, I think. The before one looks videoish around the light. But I don't think any of the images are something to aim for.

Look at Shian's work with singularity. Looks like film to me.

What exactly is your before and after showing?

They are exactly the same frame. This is obviously not a hacked VS non hacked comparison.

The only difference between those frames is white balance and a slight difference in the exposure curve. Both of which should be able to be adjusted either in camera or in post.

I think it all comes down to lens choices, lighting and grading. Make sure you protect your highlights (diffuse the light if it's to harsh) and fill in your shadows to get that extra dynamic range.

For me, Musgo pretty much nails the look in many of these shots: