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Gh2 shutter priority in 24p
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  • Getting back to the original question (since this seems to be one of the most recent discussions of this topic), what is the best shooting format to avoid sudden aperture / brightness shifts? I'm using a GH2 with the Sanity hack and the original 14-140 "video" lens, which looks great for most applications where lighting is even. Works well even for indoor darkly lit industrial video. But when following action that goes from dark areas to light areas the problem of sudden brightness shifts are most noticeable. I'm not as concerned for the "look" of the footage as I am concerned about the annoyance of the brightness shifts. I need to follow the action (often it's dogs on leash with their owners), so auto focus and zooming with the lens is usually required. Shooting manual is not an option, I don't expect the problem to go away entirely, and shooting at 24p in Program mode seems to give me the better results than any other mode.

  • Perhaps a better question is this: why in some instances does the brightness change slowly and naturally, and other times does it change instantly and repeatedly?

  • I have searched this website recently and in the past but haven't found an answer to my question. Can someone suggest where I can get find another thread on this question?

  • @greenshift

    why in some instances does the brightness change slowly and naturally, and other times does it change instantly and repeatedly?

    With GH2 and other Pana G-cameras:

    -if camera changes aperture automatically it is stepped. I cant understand why because aperture mechanics can do stepless change. It is also weird that camera is not showing which aperture it is using automatically. Result in sunshine: shutter 1/50s, aperture f22 and soft video and many are not understanding why.

    -if camera changes iso or shutter speed automatically then exposure is smooth. Again not showing what it is doing. Result: strobo video with 24P due to too high shutter speed or very noisy video in dark. Iso limit for video would be nice to have.

    -if you shoot 60i (GH2) or 60P (GH3) you can use P because high shutter speed is not a problem.

    -GH3 automatic exposure is slower to react and thus jumps less than GH2. I dont know about GH4.

    GH cameras are after all consumer products and it would be nice if a casual shooter without extensive knowledge of video techniques could get nice results without jumpy exposure or illegal shutter speeds. 24P mode is dangerous because it is so difficult to use properly. I recommend red video button if one dont understand 24P limitations. It would be nice if that red button video could use slower shutter speeds. In GH3 there is handy flicker removal setting which locks shutter to 1/100, 1/120 or 1/160s but then we meet again stepping aperture. How they can make stepless aperture in camcorder but not in Lumix high end HD video lens?

  • I have to say that in my experience, a good variND solves a lot of problems. It doesn't affect image sharpness but just a smidge (with a good one). I still get sharp stills, let alone 1080p video. Now you can set your shutter speed to what you want (usually twice your frame rate) set your aperture to what you want, and your ISO to what you want. Then you just twist the variND to get the exposure you want. Now in practice it's not quite a catch all. You can only darken so far before you need to stop down your aperture. But with practice it all becomes quite natural. You can go from a bright situation to less light and make a smooth transition.

  • Alright, vari ND is next. Set up the shot. Shoot manual. Adjust ND to accommodate lighting changes.