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Driftwood Cluster X series 3:│moon T7│ЅріzZ T6│Nebula T7│Drewnet T9│
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  • @x_worpig_x Yeah Moon T7 is pretty badass. I think @Tjabo wanted something even sharper, which is why I recommended trying T4 (which most thought was too sharp).

  • x_worpig_x is there a way to combine T4 sharpenst with T7

  • I'm using Moon T7 now for a long time( mostly skateboarding with fisheye). I use a SANDISK SDXC Extreme Pro 64GB and 1080 25p HBR mode.

    The camera freezes very often and I loose the clip, most of the time it is the one clip I want to use for editing. It is really desperating. So does anyone have same issues? Shall I switch to slipstream?

  • @Stiffla I've been using Moon T7 ever since it first released & it works flawlessly for me i've never had a problem with it

  • Did you try 24p?

  • @nomad I did try 24p but not with highest bitrate. It freezed once. So it might be an issue with HBR. My concern is, that if I uses shutter speed 100 with 24p it will look stuttering in some fast motion shots. Second concern is the mix with 50p footage of GH3

  • @DeShonDixon Yeah, but aren't you only shooting in 720p?

  • @tinyrobot Just recently started doing that a month ago I used to shoot in 1080 24p all the time

  • @gmoneystudio The only thing I can suggest is to bump up the sharpen in camera. But with good glass it's still super sharp.

  • @Tjabo just curious what color profile you use when you're going to be grading with Moon T5?

  • @gmoneystudio, @x_worpig_x. T3 had initial quantization=16, T4 had initial quantization=14 and sharper matrix. If I recall correctly, @driftwood created T5 using T4 matrix and changed the initial quantization to 16 to reduce the sharpness. T7 uses different quantization algorithm ranging from 3 to 30 and adjusts based on the picture detail and recording mode.

  • Thank you very much for all of the input from everyone! :-)

    After comparing some footage I took with T5 to T7, I concluded that I liked T7 better, so I used that to shoot a project from noon sunday to late afternoon yesterday for some friends of mine.

    Shot it all in 24H with a Panny 12-35 and 45-175, onto Sandisk 32 and 8 gig Extreme Pro cards, and a 7" Lilliput 668GL monitor. Interior shots were lit with 6500K CFLs in softboxes, and exterior shots were mostly action (some hand held and some on a Glidecam HD2000), so not lit.

    Overall, I just couldn't be any happier! I'm a total amateur, but the footage I got with this setup exceeded my expectations, and to be honest, it actually exceeded what I hoped I could get. :-) Everything was sharp as could be, and looked truly HD. That 45-175 lens is phenomenal for sharpness and clarity.

    I had my personal computer on site, and I used PP CS6 to cut the project together onto a 720 sequence for the sake of cropping and whatnot. Other than one outdoor shot where the subject was backlit and there was some significant noise on his black nylon training vest, all of the editing went really smoothly. In that one case where there was a lot of noise, NeatVideo did the trick really nicely, but I was happy I had some computer power there.

    There were a couple of other little spots where I noticed some minor noise in dark areas, but it never seemed to even register with my friend, who has a good eye for photos and video, so I just left it alone (maybe he noticed it, but it was minor, so he wouldn't have wanted to mess with it in this case anyway). We were under a strict deadline to get the project submitted for a network TV casting call, so the less I had to do to the edit, the better.

    By the way, my camera is still in the van so I'm going by memory here, but I shot it in Vibrant mode with noise control at -2, sharpness at 0 I think, and I think I had a positive number for saturation, and either 0 or +1 for contrast. I was really hoping for something that looked good straight out of the camera due to the time constraints, and it DID!

    So I do plan to try out Moon T4 just for the fun of it now since @matt_gh2 provided me a link for it, but I have to say I will be surprised if I end up sticking with it. Moon T7 is just amazing, and one of the ways it really shines is when I upload test shots to YouTube to check the damage of their compression. For some reason it seems like T7 24H footage shows less (or a lot less) impact from the YouTube compression, and looks PHENOMENAL.

    Thank you again to everyone! :-)

  • While shooting a wedding this weekend, the GH2 bumped itself from 720 to 1080 when I turned it off and back on. My shutter was still extremely high, but here is the result of what happened next! :)

  • First try of mmon T7 underwater. Non problem at all.

    Out there, a few hundreds of meters apart from mooring buoys, nearby walls, reefs and wrecks there is a unknown world waiting to be (re) discovered.

  • @LongJohnSilver Amazing footage! Insanely clear and detailed. Very cool.

  • @matt_gh2 7-14mm is a killer lens underwater

  • @LongJohnSilver Cool - thanks. A friend is looking to get back into scuba diving and she shoots with a GH2, so I'll let her know about this lens. I guess you use all autofocus?

  • @matt_gh2 actually the only viable solution is to stay hyperfocal focusing prior of the shot:

    http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/113965#Comment_113965

  • @LongJohnSilver Thanks for tip - will pass along to my scuba friend. Keep rockin - footage quite impressive!

  • Hey guys i've noticed several times that at the beginning of all my clips when i view them in premiere or anywhere else the first frame is always severely starved of quality and looks lower than vga resolution... Anyone else getting this on the files straight off the camera?

  • @TATZU, didnt notice that before, does it look similar in quality loss as the clip preview image in-camera ?

  • @TATZU The first frame establishes rate control boundaries and the codec settings, in simple terms (and in moon) we are instructing the codec to try and reach +-4 QP of the initial setting rather than starting at a higher desired quantisation level - GH2 default = 20 (other settings have been 16) and although the first frame improves when set at a 'comfortable' level - the quantisation scalers come into their own to deal with low/high frequencies performance issues (e.g. artifacting, mosquito noise etc).

    In settings such as those found in moon we are instructing the high Quant / lowest Quant boundaries using a form of quantisation rate control and not so much relying on the scalers. Thus after a few frames picture quality drastically improves and maintains an even spread of 'lowest QP' figures throughout according to the picture being filmed (low is better/high is poorer). This will mean the first frame will look pretty shitty unfortunately - so give a second or two of lead in when filming to 'settle' then edit it out on the NLE.

  • @TATZU Do you not find the sound is also missing for the first few frames? I've seen the sound problem reported on several forums for both GH2 & GH3. I follow driftwood's approach and allow a throwaway lead in.

  • If it's serious you're slating at the beginning anyhow, or providing ample lead in. Go on start isn't really a safe production habit with or without slate, however, or in the case of tail slating. You should take a moment to confirm that footage is actually rolling, whether or not you need to confirm this to another party by announcing "speed!".

  • @LongJohnSilver Fab footage! I love the 7-14 too. This looks amazing.

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