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Official Nikon D600 and D610 topic
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  • @maxotics ... please post whether they replace the shutter assembly or not. I did see one camera store's blog where they noted that on receipt of a few factory-refurbed D600's, and checking ... they all had the same new-style shutter assembly as on the D610's they had in stock.

    It's amazing how badly they've handled the public relations of this problem. Still, the camera's themselves are quite useful especially for the price. No, it's not my D3 in build, back-panel LCD, all sorts of things. However ... total resolution, movie capability, 'native' dynamic range ... it's got things my D3 doesn't, that the missus uses more in her studio/environmental portrait work than the ruggedness and WEIGHT of the D3 she's been shooting with. "For a few dollars less ... " to paraphrase an old movie title.

    Neil

  • I just sent my D600 in today. There were tons of oil spots and I'm under 2k clicks. I tried cleaning it myself. May have made it worse, certainly not better. Will be curious to see if they replace the mechanism. Will let you know. I hope they do, now that I've cooled to Magic Lantern, I may build out on this camera a bit (for photos of course).

  • Nikon D610 adds just 3 new features to the one-year-old D600 camera, none of which are going to compel D600 owners to rush out and upgrade. Unofficially, we suspect that the D610 has been rushed out to fix the "oil on the sensor" issue that plagued its predecessor, as the D610 now has a different shutter release mechanism.

    http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/nikon_d610_review/

  • The D610 is ... just ... a D600 with the re-designed shutter assembly. That's it, that's all folks ... which is why virtually ALL the 'new' features are um ... shutter related! Go figure, right?

    So ... if you've sent your D600 in a couple times for mirror-cleaning, you probably got the replacement shutter assembly installed in your camera ... meaning essentially that you now have a D610 even if the number on the camera is outdated.

    Or ... like we just did ... you purchased a recently Nikon-refurb'd D600 ... you've really got a D610.

    Aren't we all happier now?

    Neil

  • Review, conclusion, is the same as with D600, as it is same camera.

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    http://www.ephotozine.com/article/nikon-d610-dslr-review-23260

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  • I had decided that if I was going to sell my D600, I'd do it after an event I wanted to take photos for. I brought 2 Canon EOS-Ms, with different lenses, Canon flash, and the D600 with an old Nikkor 50mm 1.4 About ten minutes after I got there they turned down the lights. The Canons were great for standard flash shots.

    Then it was the D600, "Let me show you what I can do." I set my aperture to 2.8 and began shooting.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/maxotics/10254718153/

    All the outside and inside non-flash shots were taken with that setup.

    I've read many reviews where photographers rave about the low-light performance of this camera. I haven't compared it with a Canon full-frame, but I know an APS-C sized sensor camera would not come close.

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    Just like the D600, the D610 has a phenomenal sensor. Nikon D610 shows excellent performance at all ISO levels that match those of the D800/D800E.

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    http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-d610

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  • I don't see anything really new. Except for shallow depth of field, I'd shoot video on my GF3 before the D600. 24p is not going to change that. I really wouldn't buy this camera for video. However, as a photography camera (what Nikon specializes in) this camera does for stills what Panasonic does for video--optimizes sharpness and allows you to crop smaller (while maintaining decent res) with this camera than the comparable Canon (due to the sensor). I was going to sell my D600, but if this drives the price down too far I'll keep it for stills. The oil thing is blown out of proportion.

    If photography is your passion, this camera would not disappoint you. As for video, sorry, Nikon has no real economic incentive to go down that route. I've been immersed in DSLR video for a couple of months now and I'm pretty sure the number of people pursuing it, in a real way, numbers in the thousands. I see the same names, on all the boards. The video enthusiast market, for DSLRs, I calculate to be less than 0.05% (and that's optimistic).

    When I first doing this I thought Nikon short-sighted for not allowing their cameras to be hacked. Now I see the economic/user-risk reality. Many people buy Nikons because they are built like, work like, tanks. It isn't worth losing millions of customers, if a problem arises, for a few who might shoot RAW-type video.

    All that said, they have a mic input and if you want to get some quick video, you have an option.

  • @peterweter

    No hacks talks here, please.

  • Any chance of a hack to add/change functionality in the near future for de D600?

  • D610 camera is announced

    Bringing small improvement into shooting seed and, oil issues.

    PR - http://www.nikonusa.com/en/About-Nikon/Press-Room/Press-Release/hm12ju4m/Concentrate-on-the-Clarity%3A-The-New-Nikon-D610-FX-Format-D-SLR-Places-Emphasis-on-the-Image-Making-Experience.html

    PDF - http://chsvimg.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d610/pdf/d610_8p.pdf

    New Improved Automatic White Balance: With an updated AWB algorithm, users can capture more vivid skies, and more natural-appearing reproduction of artificial light than ever before. Additionally, more natural skin tones can be captured, rendering faces with a more three-dimensional appearance.

    New Increased Speed and Performance: A new shutter mechanism in the D610 affords a faster frame rate. Users can now capture the action at a continuous 6 frames-per-second (fps), which is ideal for photographing action sports or elusive wildlife.

    New Quiet Continuous Shutter Mode: Ideal for weddings and other sensitive events, the D610 features a new Quiet Continuous Shutter Mode. When selected via the main command dial, users can shoot discreetly at up to 3 fps.

    Starts shipping - 18 October.

    Previews and such

    Available at:

  • @maxotics no worries :) I am glad that you feel that way... Same here...

    Yeah, all of the gear adds up to be quite a bit. I am always telling my Boss ( Wife ) ok this is the last thing that I need to buy, then in about one week I realize that I need something else it seems like it is never ending.

    In regard to the basic stuff the Passport Color Checker is really awesome. It comes with software that basically installs a plugin for Lightroom for each camera that you have. So once you learn how to set everything up it is awesome. It also doubles as a white balance card. If I am not mistaken it comes with a video tutorial that walks you through the whole process, if not there are a some really good tutorials on youtube to properly use this tool.

    The light meter is kinda pricey. I have the cine version they generally cost more then the regular version but to me it is worth it for all of the extra features. Anyway glad I could be of help to you. The other thing to consider is calibrating your monitor. I have the X-Rite ColorMunki Display. I know all this stuff adds up but if you want your still imaging and videos to look decent this is the bare minimum. Sorry I forgot to add it in the post above. I have 3 monitors and it pretty much calibrates all of the monitors so that they all have the same color rendition.

    The only thing that is kinda of a bummer to me, is that you can calibrate your monitor so that the colors are true. But when you deliver the final product to the client, if they don't have their monitors calibrated then it wont look the same. I always take my 15" Retina MacBook Pro and show the images/videos/websites to them on my laptop so they know what it supposed to look like.

    I am not saying that these are the best tools, but these are the basics for photography and video.

    @Vitaliy @All sorry for going off topic.

    Best Regards

  • @Azo, I'm glad we're not enemies! I do feel bad that much of the stuff I put up is half-baked. I don't blame you for getting frustrated with me or thinking I have a score to settle. Believe me, if the BMCC was out now I'd buy it. But it's not. And I got the RAW bug, but also kids to put through school. So the 5DmkIII is not something I could buy in good conscience. I'm stretching it far with the D600 as it is. In any case, I'm having fun with the 50D.

    Went to buy those color cards. $100! Shesh! (Found one used on Amazon for $80). Anyway, I HOPE YOU'RE SATISFIED! Next time I'm going to be careful before asking for advice ;)

    Seriously, I know it's what I need to tackle, to move forward.

    Thanks!

  • @maxotics

    thank you for your comments. Feel free to be blunt, but please allow me to be also. I bought the 50D for $500 with lens. How much is the BMCC with lens? This is a forum mostly about hacks and getting the most out of consumer cameras. So I wouldn't say my purchase made absolutely no sense. Yes?

    The BMCC and BPCC are two different cameras. The BPCC is only $995.00, if you purchase the M4/3 mount you can use almost any lens that you desire. So IMO $995.00 is not that far off from $500.00 and you could use your existing lenses with the appropriate adapter. So yes it makes sense to me to purchase that camera instead of hacking the 50D. Do you want the best quality from your D600? Once again purchase the Ninja2 external recorder this will give you the best possible video quality from this camera.

    Anyway's, I am sorry if I came across as a jerk. For a little while I thought that you were purposely underexposing/overexposing to make the D600 footage look worse then it actually is. Anyway here are some items that are essential to me I hope this helps you as well.

    1. Passport Color Checker = This really helps with photography as well as shooting video.

    2. Photovision 14" Pocket One Shot Digital Target = Basically for white balance

    3. Light Meter = To me this is an absolute must if you want to nail the exposure... Especially considering that the D600 cannot shoot raw video.

    4. Lighting = IMO this is another absolute must. If the scene is not lit properly any camera will look like crap because you will have to increase the gain.

    I use Final Cut ProX for my editing but also have the Adobe CS6 suite. There are several different plugins for Final Cut ProX that makes color correction/white balance really easy. So invest another $100-200 and figure out which one of the white balance plugins work best for you. Neat video will also help with the noise in your videos so this is highly recommended as well.

    I have attached some images that basically show the items listed above. I also have several different types of led lights as well a bunch of compact florescent lights with different size soft boxes etc. There are to many things to list as far as my gear. Everybody is different and will have different needs for gear but I thought that I would share the basics with you.

    In regard to D600 video quality, here is some videos that illustrate what can be done with the D600.

    @maxotics seriously... I am not trying to be sarcastic but if you are happy with the footage and workflow from the 50D, you should seriously consider selling the D600 and purchasing the 5D Mark III. I would if I where in your shoes. IMO the Canon 5D Mark III seems better suited for video then the D600. The Canon 5D shoots All-I or IPB H.264 or MPEG-4. Add in the awesome Magic Lantern Hack and it is hard to resist.

    Best Regards

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  • @LPowell, the last scene in my comparison video was shot at 100 ISO. Some people keep forgetting I think the D600 an awesome still camera :) Back to video... I agree, if you follow a high-quality workflow for RAW, then yes, you need a super-fast computer, hardware, storage, the whole nine yards. But I'm taking some shortcuts which make the workflow very easy. I shoot RAW, copy the file to a folder. I then run RAWanizer on it, which uses the GoPro/Cineform CODEC to convert that RAW file into Cineform 422 (AVI). I'm not extracting each frame as a DNG, and doing all the correction that way. I go from a RAW file to an AVI file in about 15 seconds, (for a 15-second clip) on an old HP i7. MY WORKFLOW IS EASY AND FAST. So I'm color correcting on the Cineform file which isn't much larger than what comes out of the D600. But even with that low-end RAW workflow I see more detail in the RAW originated footage. I am NOT saying it is better than the D600. It just has a look I can't get from the D600. Maybe @Azo is right and I just don't know how.

    I doubt it can be done. As you recognize, there's only so much you can do with each frame from the D600 output, maybe 60kb?, against about 5,000kb of useful image information from each RAW frame.

    And I'm not trying to pick on Nikon. I just happen to have a D600 instead of a Canon 5D. If I had the 5D I'd be saying the same things about its compressed video.

    I think what you're doing for Nikon is great. I'd love to understand how to get better video out of it. But it's a great stills camera that takes some video. All DSLR video stinks in IMHO, RAW may be a way out. I wish Nikon would release firmware that allowed raw from this camera. If I end up selling the camera and they do that a week later I'll be crushed!

  • @maxotics The strong suit of the Nikon DSLR's is the deep dynamic range of the image sensor at ISO 100, coupled with the ability to manipulate the gamma curve in-camera with custom Picture Controls. This enables you to balance the tonality of high-contrast scenes in-camera, before it is encoded into H.264. While Canon provides some comparable features, the customization mechanisms and software they provide are not as flexible as Nikon's.

    As with still photography, RAW image capture can provide vastly more post-processing potential than 8-bit compressed formats, but imposes huge throughput and storage requirements on your workflow. For my purposes, current Quad-core/1TB technology is capable enough to handle RAW stills and 100Mbps compressed video. RAW/4K video is on the horizon, but realistically I think we'll need 256-core GPU processing and 10TB drives to make the workflow practical. At that point, I expect we'll have some highly modular RAW motion capture devices to choose among.

  • @Azo, thank you for your comments. Feel free to be blunt, but please allow me to be also. I bought the 50D for $500 with lens. How much is the BMCC with lens? This is a forum mostly about hacks and getting the most out of consumer cameras. So I wouldn't say my purchase made absolutely no sense. Yes?

    I agree with you that I am struggling with the exposure, white balance, etc. But you're not helping by just pointing it out with no instructions on how to improve. I am NOT saying the same thing over and over again. I am providing real comparative footage (no matter how weak) that shows what I think I see.

    If you believe the D600 takes better footage YOU should post some comparative video or send me to a link. Your opinion, against mine, may be the better one (probably is) but you're not backing it up. I agree, I may be making it look like crap. That's why I posted it here and asked for LPowell's suggestions. I am NOT trying to dislike the D600.

    Again, I would LOVE for you to set the record straight. But you need to do so with evidence. I still can't get the D600 to provide the high dynamic-range film-look I think I get from the 50D RAW. Over time, I believe I will improve my skills in both cameras, and am aiming to do what you suggest, but this is a learning experience.

    In all due respect, are you sure your mind is open to RAW footage from Magic Lantern?

    Here is the best demonstration I found on RAW vs H.264

  • Personally, like I said I am not impressed with the footage from the 50D there is moire and all kinda stuff going on. To be quite honest and blunt... I do not know why you would purchase the 50D when you could have purchased the BPCC instead. Makes absolutely no sense! Thoughts?

    A good percentage of the footage that you have posted is underexposed, overexposed, white balance totally off, etc etc. Every camera has their strong points and weak points learn how to get the best footage from each camera and work their strong points. @maxotics I don't mean to be rude but after a while it does get a little old because you are basically saying the same thing over and over. If you are unhappy with the D600 sell it and move on.

    In regard to testing I somewhat understand what you are trying to do. But I think it would be more helpful and fair to try and expose the footage to the best of your ability and then show the footage. What you are doing is akin to me taking a camera that only shoots JPEGS and then grabbing another camera that shoots RAW and saying hear look at this isn't this so much better. Also, along those lines I know for a fact that I can get WAY better footage out of my D600 then the stuff that you posted. YOU are actually making footage from the D600 look like crap, it is not the camera!

    I don't know if you just have no idea what you are doing or what but like I said the footage is terrible. Even on the RAW footage that you posted white balance, lighting etc etc terrible. I have ignored your posts for awhile, but I want to set the record straight and point out that the D600 is actually a very good for video providing that you know what you are doing and work the strong points of the camera. Is it good for everything absolutely not but please keep in mind that first and foremost this camera was designed for stills with video as an added bonus. One last thing purchase a Ninja2 external recorder if you want the best video quality from D600.

  • @Lpowell I tried to do a simple test of a scene with bright sun and highlights. I tried to get both clips to match each other as closely as possible; that is, not to favor one over the other.

    Thoughts?

  • @LPowell, first I'm a big fan of yours! Love your posts. At first, I LOVED the D600 video. No longer. It seems that bright and contrasty is all that it does really well (sorry). I find it difficult to get much dynamic range. I printed out your tip sheet and used it. However, I see a ton of potential in the RAW footage I'm shooting with an old Canon 50D. Even doing the fast, lower-quality workflow, RAW straight to Cineform422, I can get all kinds of looks in my NLE through color/contrast, etc. I'd LOVE to hear your thoughts on my experiments.

    Day 1: SEE ABOVE

    Day 2:

    Day 3:

    Please keep in mind that I'm just learning how to grade video. Also, I am making rookie mistakes with each camera. I'm happy to set up the D600 against the 50D, in a setting, and follow your instructions for a better comparison if you have the time to tell me what to do with the D600.

    I wrote about some of the D600/MFT stuff on my blog

    http://maxotics.com/?p=35

    Thanks!

  • Nikon DSLR's are currently the best choice for video capture of high-contrast scenes, due to Nikon's Custom Picture Controls. This type of shooting is at the opposite end of the scale from low-light videography, and demands careful attention to both highlight exposure and gamma curve. I'm currently working on custom curves to provide full-range gamma control for RAW processing, but the project requires unique sets of curves for each Nikon model. I plan on supporting the D5100, D5200, D7000, D7100, D600, D800, D800e, and D4.

    Here's an example frame of a high-contrast scene taken with a D5200, using a custom gamma curve to amplify shadow details in-camera. It was shot in direct midday sunlight without a keylight, casting the model's face and body in a backlit shadow. The D5200's wide dynamic range at ISO 100 allowed me to capture both the blue sky and the model's skin tones with very good image quality. Of course, better results could be achieved with professional lighting, but my aim was to see how well the camera could do on its own.

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  • What I found interesting in that video is that he mentioned CCDs have better characteristics in good light. They also don't suffer from rolling-shutter but have been jettisoned by the big makers because they can get better low-light from CMOS. I don't want anyone to think I'm bashing Nikon because I could NOT have gotten these shots with most other cameras

    [Flickr D600 Low Light] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/maxotics/sets/72157634891578611/)

    However, I'd prefer a CCD full-frame camera with good low-ISO video (no rolling shutter), than low light. Call me a fool ;)

    I believe the Panasonic FZ47 was the last CCD camera that Panasonic made. What do you think of that video quality, Vitaliy? Is there a hack? No rolling shutter, right?

    No one ever gave me good hack setting here, to compare the GF3 and Nikon D600. I ended up doing more with the G5. I have concluded that though the D600 has the potential to do better video than the GF3/G5, in actual practice, it's too difficult to use, which leads to poor video. Even with both cameras set up perfectly, I'm pretty sure no one I know would see one as being better than the other.

    [Maxotics blog on D600 and GF3 Hack] (http://maxotics.com/?p=35)

    Also, ditto @peterweter. D600 hack?