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Hidden gems among lenses
  • This is topic to discuss completely unknown or extremely cheap lenses that perform admirably (so, no Bokina or Series 1 :-) ).

    First one - Vivitar 28-200mm F3.5-5.3

    1) Buy only original 28-200mm as in picture below. Tokina is absolutely different lens with different optical formula (look at crop from Vivitar box, Tokina have fewer elements).
    2) For Pentax, lens could come either in PK/A or PK A/R mounts. In former you must remoive Ricoh pin. On both you must use file to remove excessive lever protection.
    3) Closed down, lens is PP friend. Good wide open, but as on many old lenses have some abberations. Contrast is lower due to many glass surfaces and not top-notch coatings. Abberations are almost absent if close down (see below).
    4) Corners are controlled quite well.




    Available at:

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=m570.l3201&_nkw=Vivitar+28-200mm+&_sacat=0

    Some links:

    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=27092473




    Lens and box photos:

    image

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    image

    image





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  • Test with some measurements

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    Big note - it is individual old lens review, and it looks like not best sample.

    https://www.ephotozine.com/article/vivitar-28-200mm-f-3-5-5-3-macro-focusing-zoom-vintage-lens-review-33955

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  • +1. Minolta SR lenses are known to be good and the 50s are not expensive either. Hardly hidden gems…

  • Not sure why that guy is so surprised. There have been about a bazillion really sharp ~50mm f/2 lenses over the years and a lot of them are cheap now. The Pentax SMC series were also really good and my Konica hexanon was also pretty great!

  • Rokkor 45mm

  • Depends which ones you mean. Most of those are 2/3" format lenses, which don't cover Super 16. Others are 1" format, but impossible to mount to Micro Four Thirds. The old Cosmicar 1" vidicon lenses are quite nice.

  • how about the really cheap 12.5mm f1.4 lenses for c-mount? They cover BMPCC mostly, and are readily available on ebay!

  • Took this first shot in fading autumn light of one of my vine leaves; Sigma SD1, $25 Hidden Gem lens Industar N61, ISO 200, F4.0. (Set to 1 meter, for all the good that'll do it)

    Notice how it really is Macro only; part of the vine leaf is still out-of focus so from now on it's bright light and macro shots of flowers for me on the SIgma camera, ordinary pics (like shot 2) will come from the GH2 :-)

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  • Zoom parfocal threads/flames are Here

  • When have you ever known VK to back down from his original statement? Resistance is futile.

  • it can't fit a Sigma SA mount

    Thanks @nomad . That's sort of what I've been trying to get across to the guy who sold me the M39>SA adapter. He told me he'd tested it but won't answer my question about which SA camera he used.

    In any case, I can keep the Polish adapter for macro shots. Will post when I can get latest version of Sigma Photo Pro to run on my fastest (Linux only) machine. [read: Virtualised Windows installation w/MicrosoftNet], just for this one application :-|

  • That lens is for a Leica M39 screw mount. It has a much smaller flange distance than any SLR, so it can't fit a Sigma SA mount without correctional optical elements. Or it will be a macro without being meant to be one.

    MFT has a much smaller flange distance and the lens can be adapted correctly, reaching infinity. If you want macro, you'll need extra distance rings.

  • (Back on topic), I've just received an M4/3 adapter for my soviet-era Industar 61 and really enjoying the delights and challenges.

    One thing that has me perplexed is the peculiar focal-plane thing: The Industar 61 LD (macro) comes in a Leica m38 mount. When I attached the lens to my Sigma SA mount camera via the m38-SA adapter, I could do nothing but extra-close macros; now with my GH2 + adapter I can get everything but macro. I've tried shims, screwing lens out and even manually holding it closer to the sensor - but no luck getting the lens's full range.

    image

    BTW, in the meantime I'd blamed the first lens and bought a second, so now I have two...

  • wow, didn't intend to kick off such a discussion, hope you guys are still enjoying yourselves! thanks for the insight though, balazer! you wrote that the soligor and the tokina are basically the same design, yet you don't own them as far as I understand? have you had a chance to try them? and, as I heard many good things about the push/pull contax zooms (apart from being push/pull): do you have an idea on how they compare/mix/match?

    thanks again!

  • I do not agree with some of your statements considering zooms this is why I ask carefully controlled experiments in 4K (especially using m43 sensor). You will be free to adjust flange distance using shims.

    It is good idea to add to tests modern zooms and ultrazooms.

    An example of a focus-by-wire that is only electronically parfocal is the Lumux G Vario 14-140 f/4.0.

    How about making us test?

  • Vitaliy, this seems to be a language problem. Parfocal doesn't mean perfectly parfocal. There are degrees of parfocal-ness, just like there are degrees of sharpness. Even if a lens isn't perfectly sharp, it was still designed to be sharp (usually). How sharp is another question entirely that has to do with the design, the manufacturing, the physical condition, and the focusing. Zoom lenses are designed to be parfocal. How parfocal is another question entirely that has to do with the design, the manufacturing, the physical condition, and the back focusing.

    Variable focal length lenses can all be classified cleanly into "zoom" or "varifocal", according to their designs, with the vast majority being zoom lenses. The degree of parfocalness is a matter of lens performance. Just like everything else about a lens, some perform well and some perform poorly. I test at 1080p, not 4k, and only a few of my old zoom lenses are very close to being parfocal near their widest aperture settings. (and I've tested way more than 20) It depends very very much on the back focus. If you don't have an integrated back focus adjustment, a helicoid adapter, or do careful shimming of the lens, you will find the vast majority to be not very close to parfocal, due to the lens itself not having a perfect flange focal distance, or more often due to the adapter having the wrong flange focal distance. But they are still parfocal lenses by design. Fix the back focus and set the aperture somewhat smaller, and the vast majority of those old zoom lenses become fairly close to being perfectly parfocal.

    If you are interested trying some old zoom lenses and seeing how parfocal the lenses are, you absolutely need a way to adjust the back focus.

    I have more lenses than I can list. If it's manual focus, two-touch, and constant aperture in Minolta SR mount or C-mount, I probably have it, so go ahead and ask me. I don't have that Soligor, but I do have its little brother, the 45-150 f/3.5 C/D. It's made by Tokina in 1976, and it's a beautiful lens.

    The Soligor 70-210 f/3.5 C/D is the same as the Tokina RMC 70-210 f/3.5, from about 1977. Constant aperture photographic zoom lenses become less common starting around 1980, due to the appearance of automatic through-the-lens "final check" metering.

    An example of a focus-by-wire that is only electronically parfocal is the Lumux G Vario 14-140 f/4.0.

  • I have seen only a small number of varifocal photographic lenses, and an even smaller number of photographic varifocal lenses with the term "zoom" misapplied. Yes, I am talking about old still lenses.

    As you seen so much and yet tell such things, let's ask you to make set of clear test 4K videos of at least 20 old zoom lenses.

    In the modern focus-by-wire zoom lens, there are some designs which are parfocal only eletronically: they lose focus briefly as you zoom in or out, and then regain focus when the focus motor refocuses (with no action on your part, and even in manual focus mode).

    Can you provide specific samples?

    Also, let's move from this topic to specific one.

  • The vast majority of photographic zoom lenses are parfocal. I have seen only a small number of varifocal photographic lenses, and an even smaller number of photographic varifocal lenses with the term "zoom" misapplied. Yes, I am talking about old still lenses.

    You will know when you have found a varifocal lens. The focus shifts hugely as you zoom in or out, and the focus distance scale markings indicate a shift over the range of focal lengths. The Makinon/Hanimex 28-80 f/3.5 is one example of a varifocal photographic lens that comes to mind.

    I think you have simply encountered a number of lenses for which the back focus wasn't adjusted quite right, or that were less than perfectly parfocal due to mechanical imprecision of the movement. But they are still zoom lenses and they're still parfocal. Zoom lenses are not zoom lenses by accident. The design of a zoom lens has an extra group movement. If you leave that movement out, you get a lens that is very very far from being parfocal.

    In the modern focus-by-wire zoom lens, there are some designs which are parfocal only eletronically: they lose focus briefly as you zoom in or out, and then regain focus when the focus motor refocuses (with no action on your part, and even in manual focus mode). They are still parfocal and still zoom lenses, but in a less desirable sense than the mechanically parfocal zoom lens.

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  • @balazer

    Well, it is just word twisting ("true" zoom) thing used by some people.

    In still photography term "zoom lens" is used for both varifocal and parfocal lenses (only very small amount of them is parfocal). In pro cinema lenses it is mostly used for parfocal lenses (due to obvious reasons).

    This topic is about old used still lenses.

  • It is a correct statement. A non-parfocal "zoom" lens is not a zoom lens at all. That's a varifocal lens.

  • Zoom lenses are parfocal, by definition.

    It is wrong statement.