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Driftwood Cluster X series 3:│moon T7│ЅріzZ T6│Nebula T7│Drewnet T9│
  • 1811 Replies sorted by
  • @rumi What were the camera settings? Keep in mind it could have been the ISO bug that causes terrible noise.

  • Yeah, ISO bug was my first guess and then the MT7 user just being on a bad ISO.

  • Because compression removes grain to save space but the overall quality is worse if you want your footage to look like his then just dont use the hack dont plan to do any grading or anything though...

  • @electria0814 Why is there so much bokeh on the stock lens how you do that lol

  • Keep it f/4 or less (so 14-18mm) and you can still get some nice falloff.

  • Thanks @TATZU . :) i agree completely with @BurnetRhoades . :)

    I keep Aperture in f/3 ~ f/4 shots, f/5 also use a little some too,this is my set.:)

    24p Shutter 50.

    iso: 160~400 .

    White Balance,move to the right +a little blue.

    grading: After Effects.(Sa Color Finesse)

    highlight : red down .Improve green+ a little blue (like this picture ),you can see window is blue+green,

    in the shadow : i put in a some blue.(in the hat,hair &Clothes).

    mode : nostalgic (hold better ,the highlights and has gentle dark areas.).

    so,The work is done. :) ,hope this test experience can help you.

    i'm still learning, :) love it

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  • I am still relatively new to hacking, so this is why I ask. Within any of these settings, is there a way to add peaking to the camera?

  • @iAchilles. Nope. Not to my knowledge.

  • TATZU said on January 31: "@driftwood is there a reason you say to put i. dynamic on low when using moont7?"

    Is this true? I didn't know anything about this... I've been running mine on high. What is the expected difference?

  • Some stills from a build video. The bike is for me, the video will be finished when the bike is..hopefully in the next week or two. It's got a late-70's/early-80's vibe to it, so that's the direction I was heading with the grade...not final, but kind of close to what I want.

    First two are ungraded, second two are graded. Moon Trial 7, ISO 1250, 1/40 shutter speed. Toyo 28/2.8 and Canon FD 50/1.8 with Metabones SpeedBooster. I think I shot around f/4 or so.

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  • The diffusion sells the '80s aspect (unfortunately) but the color feels older.

  • @powderbanks Why did you grade it to look so low quality? In the originals it looks like a nice camera in the graded ones it looks like an old peice of junk camera thats been collecting dust lol. Anyways how do you like the speedbooster? Any cons to using one?

  • @TATZU Well, it's a rough grade for now, nothing final..I've since bumped the saturation a bit, messed with the curves, and added a bit more contrast; but as I said earlier, the bike has a late 70's/early 80's feel to it (most of the parts of the bike are from other motorcycles from that era) so I wanted a grade to match. The music is going to be similarly themed as well. Like I said, the video isn't going to be done until the bike is done, so there's plenty that could change. Having said that, your reaction is pretty much what I was going for, haha.

    As for the SpeedBooster, I really like it. I have the FD version, and since I already have an AE1, I have collected several FD and M42 lenses. It made my 'fisheye' 18mm more usable for skate footage, but didn't give me the extreme distortion as if it were on my AE1; IMO, it's the perfect balance. And for low light, it's hugely helpful as well. I find if I'm shooting indoors, I'm always using the SpeedBooster. Partly because of it's low light boost and also because it makes the slightly longer (50mm+) lenses more usable indoors because of the reduction in crop factor. It doubled my lens options at a fraction of buying that many more lenses; so it's totally worth it.

  • @powderbanks When and where did you get the FD speed booster. I have gone to the Metabones site on a bi monthly basis to see if the FD to M4/3 is available and every time the cupboard is bare. I really want to get my hands on one as you are so right when you say it's a low cost way to double your lens collection. Just wish I could get hold of one.

  • still waiting for some Moon T8 news :D

  • So I have a question, that might or might not be related to hack. If I shoot handheld with large zoom I get shake, that's a given. Sometimes however, that's what's possible and a shot can be recovered to some extent using warp stabilizer in Adobe.

    I have been shooting with Drewnet T9 and really like it, I was however wondering if this long GOP will produce images that a less recoverable for post image stabilisation? It seems that the nature of long GOP is based on the assumption that the previous image is similar which it is not in the case of high frequency shake. Therefore will I be better of using Moon and all-intra?

  • Yes, software stabilizers are based on tracking pixels (or pixel groups) and all Intra is better.

  • @Brumbazz, have you tried Moon T7? It is phenomenal, and everything seems to work better with it, to me at least... I compared the Drewnet T9, and to me it just isn't even in the same league of image quality. Of course, that seems to mean you can't do nearly as much with it, either.

    I am so excited to see what the team might have in store for us with Moon T8. :-)

  • Thanks, I'll give Moon a try then. I guess, I should also detour from the 180 degree rule and use faster shutter, when I know I'm pushing my zoom/support relation in order to make it more recoverable afterwards.

    (I know I'm drifting off topic :-) )

  • @rsquires. I ordered the FD SpeedBooster maybe a day or two after release. I forget where I saw the press release, but I had the money already set aside for when it did.

  • *** NEWS *** moon T8 test. Still refining.

  • moon T8 would only work with sandisk high speed cards? i wish we had a Moon for poor man's SD cards :\

  • @driftwood is there a reason you say to put i. dynamic on low when using moont7?...?...?...?

  • @TATZU Not really you don't have to. Its a Pany attempt at ISO boost/reduction to lift shadows / less bloomy highlights. It actually increases the bitrate by around 5 to 7% in some of my tests and have found that LOW is all that is needed. I don't think High works in Video mode from what I remember. Besides, its much better to get it right in full manual mode. I test it in many of the latest Cluster settings to enable users who like working with it to continue recordings - but remember it adds an extra strain on the processor.

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