Hi, i have a problem with gh3 HDMI out. There is no any signal when camera connected to monitor, but i got it when try to play files from sd card. What is the problem, who knows? Am i need to return cam, or i just do not know some special button to switch on HDMI output? Thank you.

Glad it helped! I use the EVF 99% of the time so mine is "on". I do a lot of bird photography with the camera mounted on a scope. Sometimes I'll use the LCD to monitor what's happening when I don't have my eye up to the EVF, and in that case when I move away from the EVF I want the LCD to come on so that's why I chose that setting. If you never use the EVF then I guess you'd want it off.

Has anyone else had any noticeable color rendering issues with the GH3, especially in Tungsten and low lighting?

Thanks A LOT h2otara.

I can't find in the manual, how to see if I have that activated. Could you please tell me, where is it in the camera? Which menu? I have it infront of me, and I must be braindead, but can't find any option.

Hey guys:

My GH3 screen turns off. But not after 10 seconds (also). Sometimes It comes ON and OFF, like a flashlight. 1 second is on. 5 is off. 5 seconds is on. Then is off. Just crazy.

Is my camera defective? Is this """"normal"""" ?

Thanks

Anybody experienced weird green artifacts when using cropped sensor during 300% timelapse in video mode? Im not athome right now so wont be able to upload example.

@Vitaliy yeah i wouldn't be surprised. it seems like a terrible design oversight, especially for a flagship photog cam.

I got a reply from panasonic a while back saying thats the way the evf and optics is designed and is within working operations. They said with the glass element used in the efv eyesight has to be perpendicular or it has to be assembled dead perpendicular to the to the evf for it to be clear or something along those words. You know, kinda like driving on a freeway and doing a lane change without moving your eyes....hmmmm...yeah we all shoot dead centre.

Have you guys noticed image fuzzing on the evf when half press for focus? It's almost like its in ETC mode. I have noticed this a few times, cant remember if i had lumix, OIS/non OIS glass at the time but it made focus useless. You had to just hope that the camera was focusing correctly.

Max, I've owned 3 other G-cameras, and this is by far the hardest viewfinder to use, however I shoot nothing but manual focus stills and have been getting good results. What I've found is that you need to look through a very small area in the middle to the area of the viewfinder you're looking at. Imagine that instead of the whole screen in front of your eye there was a very small hole, almost a pin-hole, and that to see up or down you have to look through that pin hole. If you are trying to look at something in the top of the EVF and don't look through the middle to it, it won't be sharp.
I'm sure this isn't the answer you wanted, but my first cam had to go back, and they both look exactly the same, so it seems to be a crazy, but usable design.

Hi!

This morning I was shooting with my GH3 together with a Ruige monitor. When I first connected the two, my monitor started whistling in a feedback loop...getting louder and louder. The audio track in the mov isn´t affected (like in internally affected, but the cam's mic would of course pick up the whistle...). I can turn down the volume on the Ruige speakers, so no problem.

But does anyone have an idea of what could be going on?

Thanks!

@Maxr

The color shift looks like radomly appearing, but I can't say this for sure. Some TL have been massively affected, some other have only 2 or 3 corrupted frames. Don't really know. I have done lots of test only to replicate the issue, but I have not being able to understand what's influencing the quantity of color shifts.

One user from eoshd.com did the same test as mine, he has got the same results as me, take a look:

http://i.imgur.com/5nOZAKG.png

Following the advice of one user, I have tried doing a raw timelapse in the oppose direction: instead of underexposing shady areas, I have overexposed the sky. In post then, I have reduced the exposure, and the result looks like very good. I have done only a few test for now, but it look like that overexposed frames can help reducing/avoiding color flicker in shadows. But I need more time and tests to be sure that this solution can be helpful for every situation.

@yak I was comparing video frames to jpeg, I took a jpeg 2M burst at 20 frames per second. Took out the first 24 frames... size is 12MB, while a second at 24p 72Mb/s (64Mb/s recorded) is about 8MB/s.

There may be a difference in pixel density between stills and video mode?

Hi all,

I'm a Toronto-based TV editor. Overall I absolutely love the GH3, and am more amazed by it every day. But...

I'm surprised no one has mentioned spontaneous exposure / gamma shifts in long recordings...? I have two GH3 cameras, and know two other GH3 users here in Toronto, and all four cameras are doing the same thing. Even when the video is set to Manual exposure (which we always do), and even in unchanging studio lighting, the video will abruptly change brightness every minute or two.

The shutter speed, aperture, and ISO do NOT change... yet the recorded video changes drastically from one frame to the next, as if it just jumped an F-stop.

I know that this is not connected to the auto-brightness issue on the rear monitor -- I have tested, and though the brightness shifts look just like the ones that happen when auto-brightness for the rear monitor is on, they do not happen at the same time.

So far, I have been able to cut around the jumps in exposure. However, I know if this isn't fixed, I may miss irreplaceable shots.

Is anyone else experiencing this on long recordings? And if so, do you know a fix?

I'm also very irritated by the screen info disappearing after 10 seconds, as are all of my TV colleagues.

Another question: does anyone use the SmallHD DP-6 monitor with the GH3? If so, have you noticed that the DP-6 crops the video image substantially? Is there any way to fix this? If not, it makes it difficult to use it to assess framing.

Lastly, I Tried the GH3 with the Atomos Ninja-2 and was very disappointed. The GH3's HDMI output when recorded seemed to have a greatly reduced contrast range, and noticeable shift in color and gamma. I don't know if other recorders do better, or if this is a GH3-related issue.

Hi. I wonder if you aren't expecting far too much from the GH3, or any camera, for that matter? You are starting with an essentially black, seriously under exposed image, and then pushing it by, how many EVs? 4 or 5? Do you expect the essentially black initial exposure to respond perfectly well? I think that is too much to expect? I agree the color shifts are pretty bad, but..well...the ROI in the initial exposure is almost black, so, you are amplifying a ROI with almost NO SIGNAL content. I think that is the root of the problem. The post processing tries to boost black to somecolors, but...since the signal content is so low, the huge boost in the exposure is unstable with respect to color balance. Just my take, for what it's worth. As you've said...you only see this issue when you try to correct for grossly underexposed areas in your clips. Maybe you just shouldn't try to push such underexposed areas so hard?