@svart

Thanks for taking the time to check each frame.

While I will keep checking for motion blur at different pan speeds, I have also noticed what you see. I've started to think we need to look into the way devices handle compression/decompression as another culprit.

A passing tree may only stutter a little, but a whole forest may push the codec -either at compression stage in-camera, or de-compression using different media and different machines.

@driftwood

misinterpreted by people viewing their recordings straight from the sdcard

Exactly.

I've just realized I've now got to repeat my motion-blur test with multiple yellow dots, just to test the remote possibility that motion-blur itself is somehow compromised by more moving information to be compressed. (more work..Parkinson's Law, dammit)

[Edit] No problem with these multiple dots, (see animated GIF)

Another thing about checking each frame is how often a marginally-working high bitrate setting will produce just enough artefacts in occasional frames to really stuff up any hope of smooth playback anyway.

I'll personally be looking around for some quality-control application which can check the integrity of each frame in a clip automatically before they make it all the way to final edit> [another occasion where you'd want to avoid players with error-correction].

I saw in a test clip I shot the other night, that while panning in an underexposed situation with large areas of mid-tones with low details that when I went frame by frame, I could see strobing as slight changes in color. It wasn't random but I couldn't tell what kind of cadence it had. I'll see if I can replicate it and post screen grabs. I don't think what we are seeing is an actual stutter, I think it might be a change in how a frame or multiple frames look which causes jarring and draws attention to itself. I see it in all patches and stock firmware.

@mo7ies

One thing at a time, one thing at a time..

@mo7ies @Rambo

Well, the barrel happens to have a vertical pink line on the other side. It helps me count part-rotations.

Circles are used in test patterns because, even to an untrained eye, any elongation is obvious. You can tell if an image's length is, say, twice is height.

A line won't do this. It will also show jello-skew. See (in updated processed pics above, how even a circle gets skewed a little). What we want to measure in shutter is blur-length (elongation) alone.

This is a simple test with just one variable. Speed was a consistant; ie I was happy set the rotation speed to just to any one of the strobe circles in the paper disks which would harmonise with the AC lamp. These clips were shot at 42 rpm. That makes for a fast transit: 3.5 frames for the yellow circle to appear at left and disappear at right.

Sorry about the VLC's mis-reported previous fps. It was indeed 24fps -as my Linux OS desktop has since determined. I have updated the original post.

As for the colours, @Rambo , Send me your choice on the Dulux colour-chart and I'll do something to match your Hawaiian shirt ;-)

@Roberto Thanks for your time on this. As someone who has banged around with this for weeks and weeks (and slowly going crazy)LOL!!

I tested all of the recommended new Driftwood settings this morning 24P and 29.97 too with Shutter at 30.

Anyways...its 24P where the problem is...not 50P, 29.97 or Mjpg either, Its 24P mainly and at 50 or 40 shutter, 30shutter at 24P definitely improves things, but the strobing is still there and it is not as as good as 29.97 unfortunately. To test 25P (which is the other setting that is also stroby) you will need to format your card, set one of the 3 mem locations to PAL output, sometimes you have to format the card twice to get it not to seize up...and then set to HBR.

You probably know all this anyway.

Cheers

Roberto>Set to 24P but I ended up getting 25 cos of hack, I guess.

If you mean 24p cinema? 24p stays 24p whether set to PAL or NTSC in a hacked camera. Only HBR, FHD and SH change regions. We would love real 25p thou.

I wonder if the test would be different with a white bin and black dot? ( better still a black vertical line)

@Roberto - I assume you shot with GH2? Which hack? Which lens, other settings? Thanks.

Are you going to do the 24/25p test now?

@Driftwood Thanks heaps, Thanks for your input.

Like @mo7ies I agree that the lower shutter speed helps quite a bit in 24P. I did a lot of tests last night, panning close and slowly over a couple of guitars (incl a detailed Dobro)

Notwithstanding the Cluster V2 being out of date...I did like Quantam100 with all I frames (the detail of it) panning was kinda choppy tho (stroby) I had to have the shutter at 50 cause it was night here in Australia (PAL) but the detail was beautiful. Sedna was real nice too (again all Intra?) but slightly more demanding (I am using the 64/95Mb card) and harder to notice any real detail difference.

But on the subject of panning they were all a little strobey....However I will look forward to trying Cluster4/Crossfire etc.. I will try them today and post the results.

@rapsoe Yeah what you say is correct, the micro 4/3 lenses are sharpish for sure, but I have to say that the strobe issue does not go way even on the older Konica Lens like the 57mm, a strong ND filter does help tho, but does have its own set of problems IMO. One of the most telltale signs of what the GH2 does not handle well is in the slow pan over that Billboard I posted.

The white lettering over the black background pulses away whereas the yellow lettering is not too bad on the same pan...interesting, but the high contrast thing is something most people know about anyway, the difference is very clear on that clip tho, even more so on the unsmoothed 1080P version. Speak soon....this thread has helped a lot. Thanks a lot Cheers

More like the motion blur gets back to where it was supposed to be in the first place.

In other words, in my layman observation of 24p, motion blur on GH2 with 1/25 shutter visually equals (~insert your favorite HD camera here~) with 1/50 shutter.

Frankly speaking, I think lowering the contrast of the image going into the GH2 sensor just to control the choppy motion, might not be a good idea.

Too cumbersome an implementation, as well. If you have one single lens, sure it can be done. But I have a number of lenses, plus a number of adapters - as surely do many of us GH2 owners. It is not feasible to go Hurlbut http://goo.gl/jqICw on every lens, and mount/unmount that filter on location, ESPECIALLY on non-PL lenses...

I'd say, let the light in the way it is; but tehn deal with internal processing is the way that removes much of the annoying motion strobing. Which is: (maybe?) use Flow Motion hack by @LPowell, and (definitely) employ low shutter speeds of 1/25 or 1/30.

The pana 25mm (super sharp) prime does amplify strobing, especially at deep depth of field and of course high contrast scenes. Have you guys tried the 80% variable mode? (I know, no sound in camera) Is it not 30p in a 24p wrapper or something? The goal being a smooth, regular framerate 24p clip rendered from the 80% setting. I tried it a bit, but can't be certain. Thanks for all your input here. If I have the opportunity to do some more scientific tests, I will post them here.

@Zeko You will see it on the clip link I gave, somewhat and you can see it a little on the stills using something like "Fast Picture Viewer"

Same problem here, how could i show this strobing on stills ? :s But anyway, i won't continue this until i have my new video tripod to test the pans.