The sound check (by ear) was very good in the configurations that did not use the Sennheissers. The Sennheissers introduced their typical noise. When pre amps from the Sony PCM-M10 recorder, or the sennheissers are used, set the camera level to one click above off. The Sony M10 has cleaner sound than many larger and more expensive recorders, and is 1/4 the size. The best sound recorded to the camera was obtained by going through the M10. Having 3.5mm connectors makes it a bit more fragile. I suggest using all right angle connectors.

I found that the lavs with power supplies directly connected through the Azden Cam-3 mixer was clean enough for speech, although it does depend on the pre amps of the camera you are using which typically has some noise on the floor. I used Countryman B6's. They are one of my favorite lavs. The sound quality is excellent and they are so small I can push them through button holes. That way they are virtually invisible, and I do not have to contend with clothing ruffling. I advocate not using transmitters whenever possible such as sit down interviews. If you are fortunate to have Lectros wireless, then there is no noise issue.

What is very cool is using the mixer connected directly to the camera. The entire sound kit fits in a pocket. The miniature boom mic is a "Que Audio DSLR-Video Microphone Kit"

I did a bit more testing and it looks like some noise is being introduced by the lav power supplies. The unit itself only supplies power and has a passive volume control. My guess is that it is the 4 meter cable which is probably low quality. I will shorten the cables and report back.

I tested the mic power supplies and found almost no difference with them in, or out. I am concluding that they are not a significant noise contributer, although I still think think the cables are not very good, and i will replace them with higher quality. The cases snap open and it looks like an easy fix.

To do some live streaming I’ve looked at many solutions and this one seems (at this point) the most ideal for my multi camera setup : hook up 3 gh3’s to 3 Ultrastudio mini recorders with thunderbolt and use wirecast to do the streaming and encoding on the mac pro/hackintosh.

I’ve seen however some conflicting messages on forums where it seems that the GH3 signal will not pass through the mini recorder, so does any one have experience with this? Can anyone confirm the mini recorder works with the GH3 and wirecast?

I believe the GH3 has 4:2:0 out and the codecs supported by the mini recorder are:   AVC-Intra, AVCHD, Canon XF MPEG2, Digital SLR, DV-NTSC, DV-PAL, DVCPRO50, DVCPROHD, DPX, HDV, XDCAM EX, XDCAM HD, XDCAM HD422, Apple ProRes 4444, Apple ProRes 422 (HQ), Apple ProRes 422, Apple ProRes (LT), Apple ProRes 422 (Proxy), Uncompressed 8-bit 4:2:2, Uncompressed 10-bit 4:2:2.

So perhaps the GH3 might not work due to different colorspace?

 Here a post where you see a setup using to minirecorders thunderbolt + usb camera to stream live with wirecast: htttp://forum.telestream.net/forum/messageview.aspx?catid=45&threadid=13444 The guy doesn't use a dslr but dedicated camera but you can use the mini recorders with wirecast, only question is, will it work with the GH3?!

Hope one of you can shed some light on this matter

Update:

Interesting links for this thread: Setup using mini recorders: http://forum.telestream.net/forum/messageview.aspx?catid=45&threadid=13444 How to setup GH3 for HDMI output: http://provideocoalition.com/atepper/story/how-to-make-the-lumix-gh3-camera-deliver-proper-recordable-1080p-over-

Everything shot with the GH3, all Natural -5, -5, 0, -5, 1080p @ 50Mbs MOV I've used Olympus 12mm f2 and 45mm f1.8. Some shots with ETC mode, mostly handheld with the Aputure MagicRig.

Edit in Premiere Pro CS6, some correction with Fast Color Correction.

Your comments are welcome !

The reasons I want the Speed Booster are pretty obvious: extra stop of light, wider viewing angle... But I want to know if it's really worth it. Will it actually make my lenses look better? I really want to know what the downsides are. Are there GH2/3 shooters who use the Speed Booster exclusively?

I'd really appreciate any pointers or discussion on this.

FS #2: Teradek VidiU Price: $600 shipped (CONUS onlu) http://www.teradek.com/pages/vidiu It works great on UStream, YouTube Live, LiveStream and etc. See the link for what it does. You can do HD streaming with this device. I only tested it and it worked great but I have no use for it. Again lmk if you have any questions.

Paypal or cash only. Will use USPS 2day priority to ship them out.

I went to film racing event last weekend with my GH3. I've remembered playing with this option on my GH2 but then never require it really. I wanted to give it a go on this event.. and it dosen't activate. I mean it's available and goes to "ON" mode in menu but does not affect picture at all (it's still same focal distance being displayed.)

I have being played it with different manual recording modes and while in preveiw and actuall recording mode. Tried different codecs and resolutions. I've swaped and tried 3 different lenses (20mm lumix, 35-100 lumix and 45olympus). I went to menu and used "Reset" option to bring camera to factory settings. No result

Is there something I'm missing any advices before getting myself introduce to Panasonic customer service :) ?

Thanks

for your considaration, my Panasonic Lumix GH3, in like NEW condition, with 2 original batteries.

All original packaging of course. I used it over a week-end & that was all. So camera is really like new.

Total price is only €850 (including Paypal & shipping) for this beast...

The camera will be shipped from France.

Kind Regards,

Ioannis.

long time PV user - first time poster.

I'd like to ask some opinions - Here in the UK Panasonic are about to launch a spring promotion (it's a bit hush hush) the deal is, you buy a GH3, and get the battery grip and a 22mm 1.4 Panny lens thrown in for good measure. (could be a 24mm though) anyway, I currently shot with a G6 making music videos and youtube stuff, but I do occasionally shoot higher end stuff. Do i trade in the G6 (and pray it then doesn't get hacked the week after) and trade up to the GH3, or stick with the G6?

I like the weather sealing feature, and the higher bitrates, but i'll miss peaking...

I read somewhere that the GH3 has a smaller sensor - is this right?

Will i see a big jump in quality? And if not is this deal too good to miss?

Thanks in advance,

Matt

This is a music video we did for a Detroit rock band called Odd Hours. About 80% of footage after the boat scene is GH3, all wide angle stuff is T3i.

I just acquired a Steadicam Merlin (first edition) for a very good price and I'm having some trouble balancing it.

On the website they have "recipes" for the gh1 and gh2 which are similar enough to each other, but the GH3 is a totally different body shape and weight and is proving to be quite difficult to find the sweet spot.

This was a promo for a series of video production classes at a local public access station, centering on one of the former students who is now an intern working at the station.

90% of the footage was shot on a GH3 with the 14-140mm f4-5.8 lens

Recording mode was MOV 30p All-I

Photo Style was set to Natural 0,0,0,0

10% of the footage was from a GoPro HERO 3 (anything obviously hyper-wide)

Edit and grading were done in FCPX, with heavy use of Neat Video's noise reduction plugin for the interior production truck shots.

this is my last shortfilm (6 minutes) Shot with GH3 lumix 12-35mm f2.8 and nokton 25mm f0,95 lens all settings -2

Please tell me what you think.

Thanks guys.

I bought myself a Glidecam and the Olympus 12mm and took it for a first test while skaten with my friends. A lot to learn, but not too bad at all

Greetz Stiffla

I shot the still images with the GH3 at our local auto show. I also recorded the audio with the GH3's internal mic. There were a few pop's with the "P"s so I need to invest in a better external mic.

Here is the text from the video. And the links that go with it.

Lease Calculator http://www.leaseguide.com/calc.htm

Edmund's Forums for finding out how much a car should cost. http://forums.edmunds.com/

One of the biggest purchases you will ever make is buying a new car. It is important that you fully understand how much you are actually paying when you purchase or lease a vehicle. It is very easy for a salesperson to hide extra fees or additional charges.

I often get asked if it is better to lease or buy a car. It really just depends on how long you intend to keep the car and how many miles you will drive it each year. If you know that you are going to keep the car for 5 or more years then buying will almost always end up costing you less than leasing.

If you know that you can’t resist the urge to get a new car every 3 years and you drive 15,000 miles per year or less then leasing might be an option.

I lease all of my cars because I have a 12 mile commute to work each day. I only do 12,000 miles a year and I am a sucker for a new car when the latest models are released. I am willing to pay a little extra to have the latest and greatest new car.

However, I don’t let myself get carried away. I make sure that I negotiate the best lease I possibly can. If the dealer doesn’t want to negotiate or if they try to throw in extra fees I simply walk out and go to the next dealer.

There are several key items to negotiating a lease.

First you need to know what all of the factors are in calculating a leases monthly payment. The first factor is the MSRP of the vehicle. This is the MSRP plus any destination charge listed on the window sticker of the car. The destination charge is usually not negotiable because it is set by the manufacturer and not the dealer.

The second factor is the actual selling price of the vehicle. With leases you absolutely must negotiate the selling price of the vehicle down below the MSRP in order to get a good deal. Almost all cars can be negotiated below MSRP and most can even be negotiated below the invoice price.

Dealers get factory incentives and rebates that can allow them to still make a profit even when they sell a car below their actual invoice amount. Make sure you are always aware of what incentives and rebates are available on the car before you start negotiating.

I always go to the Edmunds.com forums and look at their Prices Paid and Lease Questions posts for the vehicle I want. These forum posts will tell you what the going price is for the vehicle you want. I have links to these forums in the description of this video.

Don’t always take everyone’s word on those forums as gospel. Some people post that they got $5000 off on a brand new super popular model. They could easily be lying about their deal or they could have gotten ripped off on their trade-in even though the car they were buying was heavily discounted.

In addition don’t let the dealer temp you into putting money down on a lease. Every single dime you pay upfront will disappear forever if your car is stolen or totaled. The insurance company just pays off the lease if your car is a total loss. You don’t get the money you paid up front back with a lease like you can if you are buying the car. You are much better off trying to get a really low interest rate and rolling everything into the lease than putting money down.

The single easiest way for a dealer to rip someone off on a lease is for them to jack up the money factor. The money factor is just a term that car dealers came up with instead of calling it an interest rate.

Unfortunately, our government sided with the dealers and said that leased vehicles are exempt from the Truth in Lending laws in that the dealers do not have to disclose the money factor to you because they don’t refer to it as an interest rate.

This is an awful exemption to the law and it should be changed. It allows the dealers to commit outright fraud against customers who simply don’t know any better. The key is to learn what this money factor means and what a good value for it is.

The financial institution or Bank that is backing the lease sets two values in the monthly payment calculation. The first value they set is the buy rate or minimum money factor value. This value was intentionally created as a very small decimal value to try to make the consumers think it is not important.

The most common money factor value I have seen is .00162 which equates to an interest rate of 3.89%. You can get the interest rate by multiplying the money factor by 2400. 3.89% really isn’t that great of an interest rate. Reducing the money factor by as little as .0002 could equate to saving 1% off of the price of the vehicle. On a $40,000 car that would mean saving $400.

The second term the financial institution or bank sets is the residual of the car. The residual is simply a guess at the value of the car at the end of the lease and it is expressed as a percentage of the MSRP and not the final selling price of the vehicle. You want the residual to be as high as possible.

The highest residual I have ever seen for a 36 month lease with 12 thousand miles per year is on the Mercedes Benz CLA. It is at 66% right now. That is amazingly high and it means that you are paying thousands less on a lease than you would if the car had a more typical 55%-60% residual even if the cars are the same price.

The important thing to remember about the residual is that if the residual is very high you need to plan on turning the car in to the dealer at the end of the lease. Cars with very high residuals will always be worth less than their residual at the end of the lease. You do not want to buy these cars at the end of the lease.

Leasing is really a gamble. You are betting that the bank has overvalued their car and they are betting that they have undervalued their car. That and they are counting on the fact that the dealer can manipulate the numbers to make it look like you are getting a good deal even when it is not a good deal.

You really need to negotiate the money factor and the selling price of the car. If you only negotiate the selling price then the dealer will almost always increase the money factor by the same amount that they decreased the selling price of the car. They make you think they are discounting the car when they actually are not.

Your best bet is to know what the buy rate is for the money factor and ask for that first thing. Get it in writing if you can. They are not required by law to tell you a money factor. However, if they agree to a money factor in writing they cannot change it. Get them to nail down that money factor first and then start negotiating the price of the car.

Remember most dealers cannot increase the price of the car above the MSRP. However, they can set the money factor to whatever value they want. A dealer tried to charge my .00262 for the money factor which is almost 6.3%. That is a ridiculous interest rate.

If you get the money factor nailed down to the buy rate and they discount the car they can still make the lease really bad by throwing in extra fees. Some of these fees are legitimate fees. However, most of them are just ways that they add in extra profit for themselves.

Almost every lease will have an acquisition fee and a doc fee. These fees may or may not be negotiable. It really just depends on the dealer. A typical value for the lease acquisition fee is about $800. The doc fees are usually around $400. If you can negotiate these down then great. If not then it is still ok as long as the money factor and selling price are low enough.

Once you have a Money factor, MSRP, Selling Price, Residual, and you determine how long the lease is and how many miles you can figure out a monthly payment. Leaseguide.com has a really handy calculator that will take these figures and tell you what the monthly payment will be.

Don’t fall into the trap of allowing the dealer to do the calculation for you. You need to do this calculation yourself. The dealers will almost always play with the numbers when they do the calculation. If their numbers don’t equal your numbers then walk away. They are most likely trying to steal money straight out of your wallet if the numbers don’t match.

If they try to tell you that you are doing the calculation wrong then give me the numbers in the comments below and I will tell you if they are lying or not.

The last and probably most complicated component of the lease are the taxes. The problem is that each state is different. Some states like Texas, Virginia, and Illinois all charge the tax based on the total price of the vehicle even though you are only paying for a portion of the vehicle.

If you live in any of the states that charge tax on leases like that then you will probably find that a lease is not a good option. Taxes in those states are usually $1000 or more higher than taxes in states that don’t charge the taxes on the entire value of the car.

Also remember that the taxes are determined by the state the car is registered in. If you buy a car in Texas but immediately take it to another state to register it they should charge you the taxes based on the state you register it in.

I am not a lawyer so I can’t tell you exactly what the tax laws are for your state. However, if you post a question in the comments about the taxes for your state I will try to help you locate the information about your local taxes.

Once you have all of those pieces of information you can determine the actual monthly payment for the car. A typical monthly payment for a $40,000 vehicle with 12,000 miles per year for 36 months might be a little less than $500 a month plus taxes with no money down and all of the fees rolled into the lease and a 2% discount on the car.

There are other things that can help make the leases more attractive like Multiple Security Deposits. However, those are not always offered so I won’t go into details about those right now.

Lens most used is a Canon FD 50mm.

Glidecam shots done using panny 14-45mm kit lens, for wider look.

B&W scenes filmed on hacked GH1.

I am confused about the 50mbps / 72mbps date rate that the GH3 supposedly records at.

My footage, recorded as H264 MOV files in either of these high bit rates, is listed in FCP as between 5.8mbps and 8.5mbps. Analysing the footage with cinema tools reveals the same data rate - not the 50 / 72 it should be.

If I convert the files to ProRes I get the higher data rates - around 30 - 60mbps. Although this is closer, and sometimes in excess of the data rate I want, am I not merely up-resing the footage? The new date rate might be higher, but if it is not what the camera recorded, the information isn't t there.

I am also confused about the colour management. My h264 footage has a colour profile of 1-1-1. Is that the best I can get? I read somewhere that the GH3 will record 2-4-1. How do I set that?

Again up-resing to prores 422 or 444 will not introduce colours that are not recorded in the first place!

I look forward to hearing people's thoughts.

Jules

As you may or may not know, Panasonic makes some nice lenses for the Micro Four Thirds system. If you are using a M43 camera like the GH3 and you have use for fancy features like small form factors, good optical image stabilization, and excellent clarity there's a good chance you would want to make use of one or more of the these Panasonic branded Leica infused pieces of glass. One issue with them though: are you a videographer or AC doing precise focus? You are S-O-L. No follow focus for you. No repeatable focus. These lenses use the velocity of your barrel movements in it's algorithm for changing the focus in camera so no two moves are the same. The one and only workaround I have found on the net involves using the distance meter from the camera video output as the basis for tape/stickers: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/3344/repeatable-focus-moves-with-focus-by-wire-lenses/p1

With the GH2/GH3 being such useful video cameras, and the GH4 looking like it will be a video freaking monster wouldn't it be GREAT if you could get repeatable focus from the focus-by-wire lenses which make up so much of the M43 system?

I understand that the lens focus is controlled electronically but why couldn't there be a 'repeatable focus' mode where the hardware, to a reasonable range of precision, supported the use of a follow focus and focus marks with consistent moves.

If I were a wealthy individual I'd love to put a software engineer or two on the case and see what could be done. What I have seen done that seems interesting is kickstarter projects crowdsourcing a particular software feature or program. Is it possible there are enough people who want what I want and are willing to throw a few dollars at it? I'd gladly throw some cash into making the lenses I already own more versatile.

Is anyone out there a software engineer with some experience with these systems who would, if the budget was there, be willing to look into solving this issue with focus-by-wire lenses? Are there any other Panasonic camera/lens folk out there who would be willing to throw some money at the promise of repeatable focus for that sweet 12-35mm or even the upcoming Nocticron 42.5mm?

Pick up 25th, shoot 26th, return morning the 27th.

Really interested in dynamic range between the two. I would assume the FS100 would still have the edge in lowlight performance (i.e. grain/noise) but what about other aspects like actual resolution tests/comparisons (lines resolved), Dynamic Range, Rolling Shutter, Moire, Slow-Mo, Codec, Grading Capability.

I would assume the GH3's 50Mbps would be far superior in color grading latitude and for Green screen compositing than the 24Mbps AVCHD of the Sony? Just be interesting to see if anyone knows of any video comparisons between the two. I've got a GH3 (and a GH2) just curious if the Sony's worth the extra few $K if you don't need XLR and Super 35mm DOF and extreme low light performance. I'd apreciate anyone who could share some insight on their observed differences between these two! Thanks!

This is my first real shoot on my new GH3. Report of a very cool snowboard contest in french Alps (Semnoz). Handheld with two prime lenses : Oly 45mm f1.8 and Oly 12mm f2. Edit in Premiere Pro only.

Your comments are welcome! I'm a newbie, so I need advices.

Thx

Gh3 Rokinon cine 16mm, 24mm, and 35mm Olympus 50-200m Zeiss Contax 85mm Pana 12-35

Hello! I posted this film 2 months ago. But after a few hours I had to make te film private (for soms festival). This time it stays online.

So I filmed this shortmovie with a GH3, lumix 12-35mm f2.8 and nokton 25mm f0.95 lenses. All settings -2

Can you guys please tell me what you think?

Thank you