Very lightly used with zero cosmetic blemishes. Use the rail mount to attach a Follow Focus, attach a handle or rails for shoulder handheld work.

$120 + shipping

Located in South Korea

I recently purchased the following lens from B&H:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1143786-REG/canon_0570c002_ef_50mm_f_1_8_stm.html

and the following adapter from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003150B6O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00#Ask

Thing is, I can't get the lens to focus. Does it need to be activated by a Canon camera and then set to MF? Do I need an active adapter to use this lens? Did I totally screw up this purchase bundle?

Still pretty much a noobie on understanding lenses. Any and all help or explanations would be much appreciated!!

P.S. I sent Apefos a message but am still waiting to hear from him, just thought I'd try all possible avenues to figure this out.

In my most recent shoot I was using a 95mb/s Extreme Sandisk and 24H mode.

I played the video on my computer when I got home to find it looks grainy. I used 400 ISO throughout the entire shoot and according to my meter I was properly exposed.

Attached is a photo. I've seen shots from other people's moon t7 footage that are far more crisp. Any ideas?

I hacked my GH2 a few months ago and things have been pretty lovely so far. A couple weeks ago, however, as I was importing some AVCHD files from my SD card (64GB SanDisk Extreme) into Final Cut Pro X and some of them gave me this error upon import:

"Import Failed: The following clip encountered an error during import and is still referencing media on the camera: Clip Name: 2012-12-01 19:21:00 Event: X Original Name: Clip #X Volume: NO NAME"

After looking around, I noticed that the files that presented this issue had a strange timecode. Instead of displaying a normal start time of "00:00:00:00" they started with "23:27:41:06". Only some files are like this, and as far as I can tell it only happens to clips that used lenses that have been adapted to the camera (non-4/3 Panasonic lenses).. Other than that I don't know what's going on.

Has anyone else had this issue? Is there anything I can do to fix it?

Cheers

SYNOPSIS:
"Stevie, a previously successful marketing executive, is now locked away in a mental institution and must tell his story to prove that he isn't crazy."

GH2 when properly exposed handles like a champ.

2 GH2 cameras

Rokinon cine lenses:

• 14mm T3.1,
• 25mm T1.5,
• 35mm T1.5,
• 85mm T1.5

Shutter speed 40 "magic trick on cadence"

Profile: smooth -2,-2,-0,-2

The trick here is to underexpose the camera and use proper ND filters. New patches allow to handle good recovery on gamma curves. I think the cadence also improves when shutter is at 40.

Im no pro color corrector, so some shots are not well balanced.

I did the Direction and cinematography

I've been following various posts for some days regarding research for a new camera for my video works after having used the canon sx200 for several years to shoot video. For my last work (degree show video at art school) I borrowed a gh1 and I quite liked it, but only due to the existence of this enormous lively community which enriches video life to such a high degree! thanks for that girls and guys!! For the work with the hacked (using mostly 100Mbps Max Latitude Settings V2) gh1 I bought myself two voigtlander noctron prime lenses, one 42.5mm (equiv. 85mm) and one 17.5mm (equiv. 35mm) which I quite enjoyed. I also used a photo tripod, one LED extra light and the great sound device t702 with a great 20 yrs old neumann mic from my school. I search for a camera that works well with these two micro4/3 prime lenses.

I now think about getting either the nx500, gh2/3/4(?), nx1, maximum 1000 EUR. But then I still want to have a lot of extra equipment like for sound, tripod, monitoring and so on. By the way is it possible to use a Mac-Book Air as a live monitor with any of these? I have absolutely no experience and I feel a little bit overwhelmed with all that extra research/equipment, trying to figure out everything here at the forum. Getting a lot of extra gear slowly is wanted, I want to grow up using more and more specific equipment for monitoring, recording sound, follow focus...

For my approach to video/cinema I never worked for money (except for one apprenticeship) so far, my personal projects are non-funded projects and I do operate everything myself (sound, video, editing, even standing in front of the camera) so far. I’d like to shoot either still or handheld mostly, considering the possibility to buy a rig or something similar one day. I’m not so much the studio and big team guy until now...

Since I'm so unsure about what I need maybe I should for the start just go for the gh1 body only costing me 240EUR?

The fact that panasonic goes to three years of guarantee (gh3/4) sounds tempting to me as well. I guess I'm too unsure/experimental and too easy to manipulate.

Thanks in advance! kolinko

• 1x Panasonic DMC-GH2 incl. original accessories (1x DMC-BL12 battery, charger, all cables and manuals, in original box)
• 1x Panasonic H-FS014045 14-45 mm f3.5-5.6, incl. lens hood, lens caps and pouch
• 2x Panasonic DMC-BL12 batteries (in addition to the one in the camera, ie. a total of 3 genuine Panasonic batteries)
• 1x Panasonic DMW-AC8 power adapter (to operate camera off wall outlet in studio or for long-time recording), in original box
• 1x Sandisk Extreme HD Video 32 GB SDHC
• 1x Pixel TW-282 RS1 wired/wireless remote control (e.g. for timelapse recording) with all accessoires, in original box

All of the above has had relatively little use and has been cared for very well. It is therefore in excellent condition.
The camera came originally with the 14-42 mm kit lens, but is on offer here with the sharper and optically better 14-45 mm lens.

Price €480 plus shipping (from EU).

Additional photos available on personal request.

I shoot with a hacked Panasonic GH2, mostly Flowmotion V2. My upload codecs are usually h264 .mp4 varying from 24fps to 50fps. Nothing too extreme. When rendered and exported everything is pretty much synced. But on Youtube they are off.

I work on a Macbook Pro Retina (late 2014) 2.2 Ghz Intel Core i7, 16GB RAM

Does anyone know why or how to fix this? Or is it just me and am I going crazy.

So I ask accurate information so as to take away any doubts.

There is a hack to shoot video in RAW or GH2 GH3? If you his name and where you can download?

I have seen on various web video of those who say they could do tests.

Also if you can be the best hacks for GH3. And the best hack with video quality and extremely stable for the GH2.

Thank you very much who will give me a hand.

John

produced with Panasonic Lumix GH2/GH3 & GoPro Avid Media composer, Adobe Premiere, Adobe After Effects & Maxon Cinema 4D Blackmagic Production 4k, Telestream Wirecast & Vmix

Good visualization,

Phab Pixel enchanting since 1965

Thank you

Thanks, Matt

My plan was to keep is as compact but practical as possible.

Does the Speedbooster feature activate on the GH2 only with a external third-party 5 Volt MicroUSB power supply?

If yes, could anyone who has experience in it share a tried and tested third party 5 volt MicroUSB brand i would need to buy for the same?

Please feel free to share any other views on MB SB+ GH2 setup.

This is weird. I fired up my GH2 today after not using it for a few months. Freshly charged battery.

I don't remember having changed any settings, and I'm using my same C2 custom preset as always. For whatever reason, I cannot get the camera to let me refocus with the half-press shutter technique when I'm filming. It just doesn't work. If I hunt around with my finger I eventually end up pressing too hard and the camera stops filming.

It's set to AF-s, with Shutter AF ON, and Half-press release OFF. (Maybe these are wrong?) I tried on both the 20mm pancake and the 14-42 kit lens.

Anybody else run into this? Any idea what it might be?

UPDATE! OK, I just messed around some more and found something even weirder! If I slightly move the camera body while half-pressing, then the autofocus works on half press. But if I hold the camera still (like on my monopod) it just won't refocus. I don't recall ever having this problem before. Sometimes the AF would hunt a bit when I would half-press refocus during filming, but it was at least responsive even when I held the camera still.

Thanks in advance!

Lori

The hacks developed here have piqued my interest. I'm a filmmaker -- still in school, and looking for an affordable way to shoot beautiful footage.

Hopefully you can help me out. Otherwise I'll keep shooting on my panasonic hdc-sd60 (cheap consumer camcorder).

I was approached by Panasonic several months ago to speak at the Canadian G7 release in Toronto on my experience with Panasonic cameras and my move to 4K video.

Since that time, more opportunities have come to light and I couldn't be more excited to share this with everyone!

Panasonic Canada has created a new website called http://www.lumixstories.ca which highlights several videographers and photographers and I was lucky enough to be featured on the site for my work with the gh1 through gh4. Have a look through the site and check out some of my work as well as some of the other talented shooters!

On top of that, I will be in Halifax, Nova Scotia this long weekend to do an in-store hands-on test day at Henry's with the G7 and new GX8 as well as teaching a 1 hour workshop on my 4K video workflow in Adobe Premiere!

If anyone is from the east coast of Canada and is interested in participating in the workshop, or would like to show me around the beautiful city of Halifax, please message me on here! The link to the workshop is here:

https://www.facebook.com/events/1608468506085767/

There is a lot more in the works and I can't wait to share it with everyone!

After receiving over a thousand replies in the last 8 weeks in the previous thread we continue the series here from the following link:-

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/5806/cluster-x-series-1

Whats it all about? Achieving the best looking overall pictures around - throughtout the popular GOPs. The great thing about Cluster X developments is you can mix and match some of the settings to combine into your favourite setting (e.g. GOP1 for 24p and 25p/FSH, GOP 6 For 1080i60/30p and 12/15 for 720p etc...). Slipstream settings do this for you (mixed and matched and with spanning capabilities where we can plus 80% modes on H & iA mode support).

This has been a tough (and still ongoing) challenge, each setting (and ptools patch change) takes an age to check & measure. Its exhausting work - even with 4 cameras on the go. The measuring to check Quantisation, frame sizes and stability adapting one change at a time is pretty debilitating on mental energy. I hope people appreciate waiting for each setting to appear.

All the new Cluster X series settings for each GOP attached below have been tested on the notorious 14-140 Pany sharp lens. Give me feedback.

Its as simple as A, B, C, D, E, F ! Each .ini setting in ptools for Cluster X Series will equate to setA ('DREWnet' 12/15 GOP), setB ('Nebula' 6 GOP), setC ('Spizz' 3 GOP), setD ('Moon' 1 GOP/3 GOP), setE (Slipstream 1) & setF (Slipstream 2) setG (Slipstream 3) and finally setH (Redshift). Any updates will stay on these sets.

"Bitrate is King. Who needs hi powered scaling matrices when enough Bitrate (if you have it) can drive the quantisation..." Quote from my conversation with Dark Shikari - X264 dev 2012

If you enjoy these settings please don't forget to donate to personal-view by clicking on the link above. Gratitude and thanks to Vitaliy Kiselev.

.

Setup - In order to achieve the higher bitrates I had to use M from the dial atop the GH2. The camera icon with the M would not allow this. The tradeoff was Auto ISO with M, and adjustable ISO with the camera icon with the M. I use mostly Canon FD lenses.

1a) Bitrates - I have tried a few hacks with varying success. The best I have got is about 100MB with Flow Motion v2.02, however, most of the shots I got with this hack seem to be from 70MB-90MB. I tried Flow Motion, Driftwood's Moon T7, and two Driftwood hacks (176MB & 220MB) from a pack made by the user Sohus on this forum.

Is it common to be well below the stated bitrate amounts?

1b) AVCHD vs MJPEG - I never seemed to get very high bitrates when using 1080i, despite the hacks stating to be much higher. They would range from 15MB-40MB. To achieve higher bitrates with Flow Motion, I used MJPEG which boosted them much higher.

Shouldn't I be achieving high bitrates with AVCHD?

2) Auto ISO - Whenever I use M (from PASM) the ISO would always be set to Auto ISO. I could adjust the ISO when using the camera icon mode (with the M), but then the bitrates would suffer. I tried changing the ISO before shooting, but Auto ISO would kick in no matter what.

How do I change the ISO while in M mode?

3) EV - I know that EV depends upon shutter, aperture, and ISO, but I can see the EV when I push the Display button so I was hoping there was still a way to change it.

Am I correct to assume that because I am using Canon FD lenses I cannot use EV? Even if using a Panasonic lens, how do I change the EV (I tried, but failed).

4) Modes - I have only been able to use the hacked bitrates - and only to a certain degree - by using M with MJPEG.

What modes should I be using to use the hacked patches? The camera icon with M? High Bitrate? 24P? 1080i?

Sorry for all the questions. I am not unhappy with the camera, but I really want to know why the bitrates are not working? And moreso, why the Auto ISO can't be changed (as I don't like the amount of noise it can introduce)? Thank you!

Happily, thanks to Vitaly's hack, I can use my GH2 to shoot PAL natively. And since I'm thinking of buying a GH4, I rented one for the weekend, and will bring it along as a backup/second unit camera. Thing is, the GH4 can only shoot NTSC.

So I figure, I'll convert my GH2 footage to Quicktime fairly easily, but I'd like to know what the best Quicktime export settings would be for Premier Pro CC. That's question #1.

The GH4 footage will be converted to PAL 25fps Quicktime, so I'd like to know what framerate would offer me any advantages in the conversion. Would it be better to shoot 24fps, or would shooting at 60fps enable a cleaner conversion to 25fps?

(I won't be shooting 4K, though. I want to experiment with that, maybe tomorrow.)