Tagged with gh1 - Personal View Talks

Videography Demo Reel containing mostly GH2 footage with some GH1 and GoPro

sam_rides_a_mtb — Tue, 12 Jun 2012 14:52:42 +0000

Just put together an updated demo reel, as it had been about 5 years since I made my last one. Have been sending clients links to complete videos, though wanted to have just one that contained a glimpse of the various projects I have worked on recently. Most shots are from an unhacked GH2, a couple from a hacked GH1, and a few GoPro HD shots are mixed in.

Found some info online about recommendations for reels, though doesn't seem like there is any one rule of thumb. Let me know what you think, and could use some feedback, as I may make changes to it, if necessary.

Fidelity to GH 1 (Gh1 Stills)

simurg — Wed, 06 Jun 2012 15:55:29 +0000

Can we follow GH1 orginal photos in this area? First gift from me: (Panasonic Lens 14-42 - F:5.6 - SS:1/1000 - Iso 100)

LPowell Max Latitude hack for GH1, but 30p?

Maximalist — Mon, 28 May 2012 23:33:24 +0000

I love my GH1, I love LPowell's Max Latitude hack. I need to shoot something for a client, and it needs to cut together with other 30p footage - is there a problem with changing the frame rate in AVCHD to 30 frames? Will the chip handle that? Or should I switch to his maximum reliability hack? Either way, it has to be 30p (I'll switch back to my beloved 24p max latitude hack afterwards).

Also, do I have to switch back to the factory settings before installing a new hack, or can I just bump up the new hack to a higher version number? Thanks in advance for all your help!

Can you use GH1 Hack/Settings with GH2 Camera ?

Shishboombah — Sun, 06 May 2012 18:27:56 +0000

Can you use GH1 Hack/Settings with GH2 Camera ?

GH1 weird "interlacing artifacts" on non-interlaced footage

docz — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 14:07:37 +0000

Hello, I'm using my GH1 with hacked firmware. And I am getting some weird interlacing artifacts on the AVCHD modes. I've tried numerous different settings, including: Blackout Powell, 100mbit Max lattitude, Fast Action 3 Gop, 75mbit Peak reliability, and Reliable in-camera playback patch. I've tried all of those with both the "Wrapper" patch switched on, and off. And still I get the same result.

Is there any way to get the interlacing to stop?

Look at my attached photo to see the problem, you can clearly see it over and under the actors glasses. The weird part is that my GF1 does not cause these artifacts. In fact my GF1 produces higher quality and is more reliable footage than my GH1! (Both AVCHD and MJPEG!) How can that be? Shouldn't the GH1 have far better results than it's little brother? Clearly something is either wrong with my camera or the way I am patching it is wrong.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Official GH1 "Lenin" Hack Project Discussion

Vitaliy_Kiselev — Tue, 19 Apr 2011 01:37:46 +0000

Current Status:

1. We are collecting money to get two unhackable bodies.
2. As soon as cameras will be available we'll dump firmware image.

Expected results:

1. Ability to flash new firmware with hacks.

GH17 Motion issues? Strobbing?

radicalkat — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 06:37:52 +0000

Hello,

I've got a question about the following footage. It was shot with the 100mbps max lat hack. f1.8, Shutter 1/50th. Nikon 50mm lens. The motion looks jumpy to me, especially at about 11 sec in when she starts rocking back and forth. Is this normal? Is this, in fact, strobing? Is there a fix? Is it just me?

-Thanks

Bayonet Mount to Micro 4/3

djhessler — Fri, 13 Apr 2012 21:13:32 +0000

Does anyone know if there is a mount from Bayonet Mount to Micro 4/3, if there is one, where can I find one?

GH1 (Hack or not) Chroma space when shooting black & white

LucasAdamson — Sun, 16 Oct 2011 08:12:33 +0000

Question:

Upcoming film using 2x GH1s, hacked using "LPowell's Peak Reliability Patch," shooting for Black & White destination (probably).

I was intending to shoot colour for monochrome conversion, as there are advantages regarding filtering colour contrast levels in post.

However, my question is this: Being 8-bit acquisition, is there any advantage in terms of chroma levels in shooting chromatic in the first place? In other words, if 8 bit acquisition creates 256 levels, if not shooting colour, does this merely reduce bitrate, or is there a way it can also increase chroma space for a better image?

For sale - GH1 starter kit

mrbill — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:32:48 +0000

For sale, late model GH1 (GH17 - currently with Lpowell 75Mb/s hack), boxed with all accessories, 2 x panny batteries, battery grip (holds 2 batteries), Canon fd 50mm f1.4 in excellent condition, fd to m4/3 adapter, transcend class 10 16gb sd card, lightcraft vari ND filter to fit canon lens. All the above in excellent condition, lightly used. Uk based. Please pm me with any sensible offers if you're interested.

French documentary shoot entirely in GH1

gabilourson — Tue, 06 Mar 2012 08:35:22 +0000

hello all, here is a French television documentary shot entirely in GH1 by a director that I know. Of course, it is not subtitled, but still I wanted to show here what the GH1 gives a broadcast use. The link will work again some day. Gabi

GH1 dust protection

elc — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 12:20:51 +0000

Hi All — I'm off to shoot a short film in Togo in a couple of months with my GH1, and am concerned about protecting the camera and lenses from dust and humidity. So far I'm planning on storing all of my sensitive gear in waterproof bags with fistfulls of silica gel packets for the humidity, but from what I've heard the conditions are generally very dusty, which can take a serious toll. While out shooting, some people have suggested covering the camera in plastic wrap, and I was thinking about slicing up clear plastic bags to make a hood that would leave better access, but I'm concerned that either method might cause the camera to overheat (looking at ~30°C daytime temps).

Any techniques that have worked for you in the past? General tips?

Many thanks!

The origin of banding?

simurg — Sun, 04 Mar 2012 18:41:56 +0000

Says everyone: (Banding = Structure of sensor + defective product) Well, why clean photos? I suspect that the GH1 orginal software! What do you think this suspect?

GH2 and Red Pro Zoom- Wich hack

cinfx — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 00:27:43 +0000

Just bought a Red Pro Prime 17-50mm ( t2.9 ) and would love to know wich is the best hack to make 1080 24P at a great quality. I have a GH2, currently on the Quantum 5 Beta patch. I love it. Is there a patch that reunite 1080 24P, 720 60P and 2K at bitrates around 100Mbps and stable as hell ? . My card in the Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB at 95MB/s. I really want to exchange footage with with users on this great forum full of ressources.

Thanks in advance and excuse my english, i am a french speaking person. Hello to Philip Bloom that spokes to me in french last year at NAB, what a great guy !

"bad file name, camera won't be able to read such a file"

yarlanz — Wed, 29 Feb 2012 18:15:22 +0000

Some people, like me, have experienced a problem: Being unable to save the hacked firmware for their GH1 (or GH2, I assume) with Ptool, because it just keeps insisting that "bad file name, camera won't be able to read such a file". This, even if the naming follows the rules exactly (in the vein of GH1__133.bin), and nothing seems to help.

I do not know if anybody has reported the solution before, at least I could not find one here or the rest of the internet, but I faced this problem today and eventually found a fix.

The solution is that the SOURCE firmware, the one you load at the beginning, needs to be correctly named as well. When the problem happened to me, I had made a copy/paste duplicate of the very original Panasonic firmware that I had downloaded from the internet. This had resulted to a source filename "GH1__132 - Copy.bin"

One would imagine that it makes no difference, as PTool requests the user to give a name when saving and that is the only thing that has to pass the validity check. However, for some reason the original filename, probably "-" or " " character, echoes the saving procedure and the validity test is failed. For instance, when I finally tested renaming the source firmware first back to "GH1__132.bin and then saving it with the name"GH1__133.bin", it was suddenly again very acceptable name and finally got my hacked firmware saved.

For Sale: GH1 body with all original accessories, manuals and packaging

tcarretti — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 14:21:16 +0000

I'm selling the following:

GH1 Camera body serial #WE1BA001368 along with all the accessories shown in the images complete with all manuals, CD and original packaging.

Battery, Battery charger AC power supply AV cabling

The camera is currently patched with LPowell's 75mbs Peak Realiability Patch and it is working flawlessly. I'm willing to sell it for $490. That includes shipping to anywhere in the continental United States via UPS Ground. I will only accept verified Paypal payments. For more information, message me and we can communicate either by phone or email.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carretti/6911266365/in/set-72157629405483103

Stunning Video of Live Event - Lpowell Settings

Rambo — Tue, 14 Feb 2012 14:20:38 +0000

This was shot handheld with GH1 hacked with Lpowells 75Mb Peak reliable Settings. 720p 50fps, shutter 1/50, Panasonic 14 -140mm with ND8. The color and clarity blew me away, the broadcaster doing the "live to air show" could not believe the quality from this little camera.

FS: Pentax Cosmicar 12.5mm f1.4 C-mount with M4/3 adapter

punkman — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 11:23:55 +0000

I have a couple Pentax Cosmicar 12.5mm f1.4 C-mount lenses. They have been modified to fit on a C-mount to M4/3 adapter (the barrel needs some filing to fit the adapter, done on a lathe). They have been shimmed for proper infinity focus and adjusted so the aperture/focus markings are upright.

There is vignetting. I will upload some test shots soon.

You get:

Pentax Cosmicar 12.5mm f1.4
C mount to M4/3 adapter (black anodized aluminum)
Front and rear caps

Optional features:

M4/3 AF-confirm chip, mounted on adapter
Click-less aperture
C-mount to Nikon J1/V1 adapter (instead of M4/3)

Asking price: $150

I will ship worldwide, contact me for a shipping cost quote. Let me know if you have any questions.

GH1 Firmware Hack FAQ

zcream — Fri, 20 May 2011 09:42:26 +0000

The Panasonic GH1/GF1 debuted in 2009 with a sensor in between 16mm and 35mm Academy size. It is approx a 2x crop sensor related to SLR terminology. The short focal distance allows the usage of any lens built for cameras – except the CS-mount lenses. Russian hacker tester13 figured out a way to modify the firmware to give custom recording rates – among other goodies. At this point in time, the GH1 has the best recorded image out of ANY camera less than 10K. Here is my article about installing the firmware for noobs.

The article also appears here.
http://www.mishra.tv/wordpress/?p=95

This is a very simple tutorial that will attempt to organize everything for first time users.

Video is essentially a sequence of still images taken 24,25,30,50 or 60 times a second. Also, during a video recording there is a spatial relationship between successive stills. The camera records in 2x formats – AVCHD and MJPEG.

MJPEG records video as a sequence of JPEG stills (also called an intraframe codec). Hence, it can be easily edited on any computer. On the flipside, it is less efficient than AVCHD for storage. Both the GH1/GF1 only record 30p videos in MJPEG.

AVCHD uses the spatial relationship to record each frame as a DIFFERENCE of stills (called an interframe codec). This encoding is called a Group of Pictures (GOP) encoding. So, the sensor takes its snapshots which it passes to the encoder. The encoder takes the first snapshot, saves it as a still, and calls it an I-frame. The next few frames are encoded as a difference frame, encoding only the regions that have changed. These are called P-frames. There are also D and B frames, that are variations on this theme. If there is lots of movement (i.e. foliage on a windy day, or ocean current), the encoder gets stressed trying to calculate P-frames. This causes errors while using your camera.

Finally, we need to understand colorspace. If you have ever painted, you know that all colors are composed of the primary RGB (Red-Blue-Green) spectrum. So, a basic representation of a color image involves at least 3 values for R, G and B. Depending on the color depth (8,16 or 32-bit), this can mean 24, 48 or 96-bits per pixel. That is a LOT of information. Hence, another colorspace is used for encoding stills and video – called YCrCb. The intensity of light on a pixel is called luma, and the color value (a composite of Red, Green, Blue) is called chroma. In practice we only need 3 values, Y (luma) Cr (Y – Red) and Cb (Y-Blue). The value of green can be derived from these 3 values. Now, the human eye is more sensitive to luma than chroma. So, a common scheme is to reduce the sampling for Cr and Cb. This is called 4:2:2 colorspace, where luma is sampled at twice the rate of chroma. A more efficient alternative is to sample Y at twice the rate of Cr and Cr at twice the rate of Cb. This is called 4:2:0 sampling. Obviously 4:2:2 sampling will stress the sensor circuitry and cause more errors.

MJPEG can offer 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 sampling, while AVCHD can only offer 4:2:0 sampling.

Finally we need to understand interlaced vs progressive footage. Consider standard NTSC rates of 60i or 30p. In progressive mode, a sequence of 30 still images are written to disk in 30p mode. In interlaced mode, the encoder reads the odd or even lines on each image. Thus even though the sensor is sending out 30 images each second, the encoder takes each image and encodes the odd lines on odd frames, and even lines on even frames. In interlaced mode, there are 60 calls to the encoder to write 1920×540 resolution images per second. In progressive mode, there are 30 calls to the encoder to write 1920×1080 resolution images per second. Obviously a progressive encoding for the progressive image generated by the sensor is more efficient but also more stressful for the encoder.

Having read this, lets start with the hack.

1. Use a Windows PC for this. Things can work with Parallels or other emulators on a mac. Winebottler can cause a problem where the bottom part of the hack utility (with options for various hack settings) is not seen.

2. Download the LATEST version of ptool from here. https://www.personal-view.com/faqs/gh2-hack/ptool-software Unzip it into a GH1 hack directory

3. In the past, we had to modify each individual setting. It was a tedious task to setup a GH1 or GF1. Now we can have multiple settings files that can be used, as long as they are in the same directory as the ptool. Check out the Ptool FAQ and the various settings available.

4. Now I will offer what I do for my shoots. I use AVCHD as its the only choice for 24p/25p footage. 30p is pointless unless all you need is to post videos on Vimeo. There are 3 hacks, available for the GH1 which offer Reliable, Turbo and Extreme modes of the hack (my terms). I use 3 cheap SD cards, some 16MB cards I have lying around. Format them in the camera and load 1 setting per card as shown in the FAQ above. Use a sharpie to write down Reliable, Turbo and Extreme. The 3 settings are provided the lpowell.

They are :
Reliable 2 - 40Mbps Reliable In-Camera Playback Patch - highest reliability for all camera models and all SD card types
Direct Reliable patch download.

Blackout-Powell Native 24p Patch v2

Extreme - 100Mbps Max Latitude Native 24/25p Patch v2- GH1 only, Class 10 SD cards, Native 24p FHD, 30p SH mode

All three patches are switchable between NTSC and PAL modes, and support multiple language selection, unrestricted recording time, and third-party batteries.

The robustness is obviously less for Extreme and Turbo than Reliable. At night, or for places indoors use the Extreme patch. If it does not work, use the Turbo patch. For dense foliage, or clip with running water use the Reliable patch. lpowell has stated that the Extreme patch is at least as robust if not more than the Turbo patch. Since the patch is new, I may update this information after it has been widely tested.

5. After recording, you may decide to view the video files for errors or out of curiosity. Please download cbrandin’s StreamParser - for more fun.

Lumix GH2 DSLR Cage

djhessler — Sun, 30 Oct 2011 00:28:01 +0000

Honestly I have been buying a lot of gear lately, I find it best to simply buy quality gear first instead of spending twice in cheap stuff then buying the real deal, but when it came down to buy a Cage for my GH2 I could simply not find one except for the Rewo Cage which is beautiful but way to expensive for my pocket, so I decided to do something simple and inexpensive to solve mounting options and access points for my GH2 and this is what I came up with.

Hessler
www.beyondcinema.net

Anyone know what happened to Rejouer?

Mr_Moore — Sat, 21 Jan 2012 02:53:17 +0000

Rejouer was touted as being the first full-length feature film shot entirely on a GH1. I think the production took place in 2009 and the movie was supposed to be released in 2011.

The promo trailer and some behind the scenes footage looked promising.

Anyone know what happened to it?

Here’s the film’s website: http://www.finndependent.com/movie.html

Modified, fast C-mount lenses for GH1/GH2 etc.

ed_lee83 — Sun, 12 Jun 2011 07:50:27 +0000

ALL SOLD... thanks

"Burn" sensor! Is it rumor or real ?

simurg — Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:34:54 +0000

Vitaliy and friends, what do you think about it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=GXBOEazeIn0#!

is it real solution for vertical color line (banding) problem?

Color Grading & Visual Effects Before & After - Hacked GH1 (GH13,GH17)

pixelphile — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 17:06:25 +0000

Hey guys,

Here is a little before and after comparison video to show how far you can push hacked footage during a color grade.

Hope ya like it,

Michael "Pixelphile"

Hacked GH1 with 14-42mm OIS Lens, 2 xtra batts, 2 Fotodiox, and More For Sale

jefforig — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 10:15:45 +0000

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hacked-Panasonic-Lumix-GH1-w-14-42mm-OIS-Lens-2-xtra-batts-2-Fotodiox-more-/190623247630?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item2c6207ed0e#ht_21151wt_1342

I just listed the above. There are ton of goodies and this has barely been used.
It is already hacked and working with Powell Native 24p.
There is NO RESERVE and FREE Shipping to the 50 United States via USPS Priority Mail.

This was a 4th body and I am looking to upgrade, so it wasn't used that much.

Here is the full package:

Panasonic GH1 Body -barely used
Panasonic 14-42mm OIS lens (optical image stabilization - steady shot (works in video mode too)) -barely used -$139.61 on Amazon
Panasonic 14-42mm Aspherical OIS Interchangeable -Super Low usage
Hacked with Lenin and working like a charm (currently using Powell Native 24p)
Original box
Original Strap
Original Cables
Original Battery
Original Charger
Original AC adapter
Two (2) GT Max brand third party batteries
One (1) GT Max brand third party charger
One (1) Fotodiox Canon EOS EF mount to Micro 4/3 adaptor ($39.95) -Put Canon EOS EF lenses on the GH1 body
One (1) Fotodiox Pentax K mount to Micro 4/3 adaptor ($39.95) -Put Pentax K mount lenses on the GH1 body

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hacked-Panasonic-Lumix-GH1-w-14-42mm-OIS-Lens-2-xtra-batts-2-Fotodiox-more-/190623247630?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item2c6207ed0e#ht_21151wt_1342

Thanks for looking and good luck!

Take care,

-Jeff

Micro 4/3 lens doubler

Brian202020 — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 17:07:54 +0000

I have a project coming up where I'll be buying a doubler for my lenses. I want to try to avoid buying a Nikon doubler, and Olympus OM doubler, etc. I want to buy a Micro 4/3 doubler, if they exist, so it covers all my lenses. Do they make such a thing?

newb ptool no letter is turning green!

jaj — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:06:40 +0000

Working on a PC because it has a card reader...

Ptool3d, gh1_132 from panasonic, and setb from blackout all in one folder on my desktop.
I open ptool, load the 132 firmware and not one letter towards the bottom of ptool becomes green.

very frustrated, at a stand still, ready to donate when I get the hack working.

i have faith p-v.com will come through in the end here...

Hacked GH1 - AVCHD transcoding...wont go above 15mbps

Ecoleica — Thu, 06 Oct 2011 20:54:59 +0000

Hey all, finally managed to get some tests done with my hacked gh1. I have played around with the 75mbps Peak Reliability patch ahd the 100mbps max lat patch. I have shot a range of subjects from grassing fields/trees/test patterns, and at a range of isos, apatures and shutterspeeds. However once I bring them into FCP 6 and transcode them...i end up with clips that will not go over 15mbps. Am I trancoding wrongly? or has the patch not worked properly? (I have yet to have my camera freeze up on me).

New Commercial Shot on Two Hacked GH1's (GH13, GH17).

pixelphile — Fri, 25 Nov 2011 18:14:42 +0000

Hey guys,

Check out my latest commercial shot on two hacked GH1's (GH13, GH17). The camera did freeze on the really wide shot, but after I opened up a bit, the write errors went away.

http://www.crashthesuperbowl.com/#/gallery?video=16876

I was using my "Pixelphile Indy Filmmaker Settings" that I did step by step tutorials for a couple of months ago.

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/11028#Comment_11028

Shot on a two hacked Panasonic GH1's at ISO 100, 23.976 fps, with a Vivitar 17mm f3.5, Canon FD 20mm f2.8, Canon FL 35mm f2.5, Canon FL 55mm f1.2, Rainbow Imaging FL/FD Adapter and LightCraft Workshop Fader ND.

Hope you like it.

Michael "Pixelphile"

37mm Century Optics Anamorphic Adapter w/ Diopter

CRFilms — Mon, 13 Jun 2011 14:23:07 +0000

Bought one of the last 37mm Adapters on Amazon cause I wanted a new one not just a ebay hand me down. It works on 28mm up to 135mm manual lenses with no vignetting. The problem was close focus, within 3-5 feet.

Without a diopter you can't focus that close. The Eyepatch Productions guy has done various vlogs on using anamorphic adapters specializing on the La7000, but thats out of my price range. He did use a cheap diopter, instead of the $100+ the guy from EOSHD recommends and he got good close focus. I asked if any cheap diopter would do and he said yes. I ordered a set of 62mm diopters from adorama, these: http://www.adorama.com/MC62CUS.html Their name brand set and it cost under $25 shipped.

They allowed me to close focus. Not sure the order they'll attach, but these are with an old Nikon E 50mm 1.8 around 4 feet away. Image10 is without diopter. Image9 is with 1+ diopter. And image11 is bare lens no adapter. Shot with poor fluorescent overhead lights and iso 640. Image6 is iso100 with diopter. Lens wide open in each shot.