• GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 G1 Gaming GV-N1080G1 GAMING-8GD Video Card
• AMD Ryzen 7 1700 Processor with Wraith Spire LED Cooler 
• H.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM 2133 (PC4 17000) - Z170/X99 Desktop Memory F4-2133C15D-32GVR
• MSI Gaming AMD Ryzen X370 DDR4 VR Ready HDMI USB 3 SLI CFX ATX Motherboard (X370 GAMING PRO CARBON)
• Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 140mm Dual Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4
• EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B1, 80+ BRONZE 750W, Semi-Modular, 5 Year Warranty, Includes FREE Power On Self Tester, Power Supply 110-B1-0750-VR
• Crucial MX300 525GB 3D NAND SATA M.2 (2280) Internal SSD
• Crucial 1TB MX500 2.5" Internal SSD 
• Fractal Design Define R5 Titanium Gaming Case 
• TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 PCIe Wireless WiFi network Adapter Card for PC, with -Heatsink Technology

$1700

Also selling :

• LG Electronics 42.5" Screen LED-lit Monitor 
• Logitech Illuminated Ultrathin Keyboard K740 with Laser-etched Backlit Keyboard and Soft-touch Palm Rest
• 2x JBL 305P MkII - Powered 5" Two-Way Studio Monitor
• BEKANT Corner desk right sit/stand, white

I have a $1000 cap. I'm outside U.S. so, Dell would be better because of support here. Also need to buy on Amazon. So, find those two computers:

Dell G3 - 8th gen i7 six-cores, GTX 1050ti 4GB, two fan slim chassis; or Dell 7000 - 7th gen i7 quad-core, GTX 1060 6GB, better cooling and chassis.

Both have thunderbolt and have same price. Other things are identical or not relevant.

Application will be primary Adobe CC and Davinci, but plans use it to learn Nuke, Flame, Vegas and game development things (Godox, Unity, Unreal, Maya).

What do you think?

After some painstaking Google Translate and tons of research, I managed to find some fantastic reviews of the monitor. They were all in a foreign language (which to me is pretty much anything that isn't English), but after translating the pages made me believe that this may actually be a fantastic purchase. Yes you can find 2k ips monitors for cheaper than this, but not sleeker. This is actually a giant chunk of metal. I've had the monitor for about 3 weeks now and my un-technical review is the following: I definitely plan on picking up a spydercolor elite or something to calibrate the monitor. That being said, according to the specs page and many reviews (which I'll post below this blurb), this is a 10bit monitor with 99% Adobe RGB. From what I've seen, the display is amazing and the color is fantastic, but at the same time since I haven't calibrated my monitors, I'm not sure which colors are off. Once I do that, I'll have a better review. In terms of bezel, this thing actually has picture-accurate thin bezel. I thought the bezel on the Viewsonic VX2370SMH was very good, but this is much thinner. As I mentioned before, this is one seamless piece of metal, so it is not a light monitor in any fashion. It also tends to run hotter than monitors in plastic housings, but I haven't run into any overheating issues yet and I don't think it's an issue. The menu does come in Chinese, I believe. No disrespect, I just don't know the differences between those languages and I don't mean to insult anyone with my ignorance on the topic. You can change the language to English. If I missed anything, please feel free to comment and I'll try to respond in a reasonable time. In the meantime, enjoy these reviews and images. Most of these contain detailed color analysis of the monitors. Again, none of these reviews are in English, so translate if necessary.

review1 review2 review3 review4 review5 review6 review7 review8 review9

Event link - http://www.apple.com/apple-events/october-2016/

Thought I'd get your advice and opinions on setting up a new mac for feature film editing. I've been on a Windows machine for some time now, and went through the process of determining the best settings for performance, and the best settings for export. My goal is optimal quality, particularly with export quality. So do you guys have preferred settings you use on your macs for the best editing and exporting results? Will be using FCP 7, FCP X, After Effects, Audition. Also any thoughts on antivirus - needed or not, conflicts with FCP or not?

Thanks, Matt

• I need it to have 7+ USB ports, a strong power supply (must be able to drive 2 HHDs and keyboard/mouse), be reliable, compatible with USB 2.0 (also on the computer side) and all USB devices.

• It would be nice if it can be wall mounted (I want to put it on the lower side of my desktop), the power supply is internal (or at least small), the USB ports are not all on one side, an on/off switch and a status LED (not 20 flashing LEDs, just one;-).

Especially for Mac users it looks like a hub with the VIA VL812-B2 is needed to be 100% compatible (the older VL812 might be ok too). It also seems that most of the USB hubs are just rebranded cheap generic boxes as you can find so many (visually) identical hubs with different brand names on it.

Some examples:

A bit too expensive and old chipset, but nice housing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-USB-Industrial-Port-Metal/dp/B00DE5YARW/

Also too expensive and does not work with HDDs when using a Mac(!): https://www.amazon.de/EXSYS-EX-1188HMS-Netzwerk-Hub-7-Port-USB/dp/B00B01AMPQ/

Plastic, no mount, but cheap, new chipset and 2 ports on top with extra power: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ClimaxDigital-CHUB307-Charging-Adapter-Warranty/dp/B00EWO1KE0/ (This one looks quite good, but I haven't found it anywhere in Germany with the correct power plug.)

It seems quite hard to finde a good USB 3.0 hub, so any input/help/experience is highly appreciated.

Most retail PC configurations sucks.

I am serious. Look only on top of the range, as below you can find such strange things like top CPU, little memory, horrible or even lack of GPU all of this paired with small slow HDD, all in blinking red-blue case. Such monsters come to life due to simple fact - it is also business. Every company is interested to throw maximum of junk and sell it for highest price possible.

Common things that sucks the most in every retail PC

General parts:

• Keyboard. Keyboards on all retail PCs are just horrible, usually it is $5-10 crap with modern design. 98% of them use cheap membrane approach, 2% left use scissors like on good notes. Both you do not want. Check part about input devices to get an idea that is made for real work.
• Mouse. Same shit. Not so bad as with keyboard, but it is usually cheap small wired or wireless mouse. Mouse is one of three main things (other being keyboard and monitor), so do not save on it. Good mouse for you must be good for your palm size, must be made by reputable firm, and must be produced for quote long time to see the issues. Usually none of this is true for cheap mice.
• Case. Exceptions happen here, but they are all in red book. Companies throw plastics rich "games" cases or ultra thin, bad steel cases. You do not need it, it is DOA products. They look cool and works only for people with severe brain damage and heavy drug use. Bad case won't allow you to install top GPU, will be noisy and will eat dust by kilos. It also usually hard to add things and have limits on HDDs you can install (preferably with good cooling).
• Fans. Usually it is two extremes - one fan in more entry models, and up to 8 in the "gamers" editions. All of them are pure junk usually, even one that with work more or less tolerable noise will start to die in a year or two.
• CPU Cooler. Around 90-95% of retail PCs use bad coolers (or stock ones), they are fine if PC is under no or light load, but as soon as you start heavy editing, grading, encoding, it'll be real mess. Some top configurations can use good ones, but it is rare thing and you usually pay big premium for this.

Power stuff:

• Power supply. Most retail PCs come with default supply that came with case they use. Usually it is real shit. Inefficient, with inflated power ratings. Few manufacturers make quote good cheap PSUs, but it usually do not come together with low noise and efficiency. To be short - you'll get underspecced, noisy and inefficient PSU.

Storage

• SSD. While they dropped significantly, that are still too costly for mainstream retail PCs. And you really need at least one SSD as disk for your OS.
• HDD. Most common size in retail PC is 500GB, all else usually go with 1TB. It is just waste of your money. As you need lot of space. For backup and general storage it is good idea to use slightly below the top sizes (now it is 2-3-4TB) as they are economically more interesting. We'll go in details in corresponding part.

Now we go to the PC components itself:

• Motherboard. Many retail companies not only install cheapest MBs that manufacturers have in their line, they can even order special custom versions with reduced price (and some removed ports, PCI or PCI-E slots). Only in top gamers PCs you can usually see more or less good motherboards. Manufacturer can also use MB without slot for second or third video cards (yes, they are useful for grading).
  Remember - with motherboard now also comes sound part and network chip. Cheap MBs like to cut on this.
• Memory. Memory are usually not extra important if you are not doing heavy rendering or encoding all day. But companies try to save here also. You can find cheapest DIMMS, with worst parameters, with no memory heatsinks.
• Graphics card - GPU. It is not so bad now, as middle to top class GPUs can be seen in retail PCs (most are still sold with entry GPUs somehow claiming that it is "for games"). But no one will select for you card with best cooling system and with better clocks. If you are not gaming usually you do not need top GPU, just middle NVidia one (AMD support is growing also) with lot of memory (DaVinci likes GPU memory and more GPUs).
• CPU. Just ignore anything except top of the i5 and i7 lines for mainstream (now it is 1150 socket) and enthusiasts (2011 socket), including all AMD chips (they are cheaper, but you later pay it out in electricity bills :-) ). Usually it is models with K in the end (overclocking ready). Retail companies like to use one year old CPUs, and all the range, starting from Celerons (so consultants can push something with people with any amount of money).

Next part will be about places for getting stuff.

Provide you input, if you agree/ do not agree with something.

They look.... intriguing.

http://www.apple.com/mac-pro/

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/tango-super-pc-worlds-most-powerful-pocketable-gameable-officeable-pc

thanks seth

http://www.zdnet.com/parallella-the-99-linux-supercomputer-7000014036/

Semiconductor start-up Adapteva has launched a Kickstarter project with the aim of creating a 'supercomputer for everyone,' in the form of the Raspberry Pi-inspired Parallella board.

Like the Raspberry Pi, which has been staggeringly successful since it launched despite a few hiccoughs along the way, the Parallella board packs an ARM processor onto a credit-card sized form-factor with a wodge of memory, general-purpose input-output capabilities, and various ports. Where the Parallella differs, however, is in its performance potential, with Adapteva claiming to achieve around 50GHz of CPU-equivalent general-purpose computing performance from its Epiphany co-processor.

...costing $99 for the 16-core version and a projected $199 for the 64-core version,...

from http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2012/09/28/adapteva-parallella/1

http://www.adapteva.com/

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6444/intels-next-unit-of-computing-hands-on

Top model has Thunderbolt (but very strange idea to include only USB 2.0 ports).

Expected price of barebone - $300-320

http://www.gizmosphere.org/

Price: Mac2sell suggests the after market price for this unit is $1,640. That's a little steep, but I'm looking to get between $1,400 and $1,500 OBO + shipping (usually under $50 within North America. Overseas things get pricey real quick).

Specs: -OSX Lion 10.7.4 -2.8ghz i5 Quadcore Processor -16GB of RAM -1TB Hard Drive -ATI Radeon HD 5750 graphics card w/1GB RAM -Bluetooth, 802.11g/n WiFi, FaceTime Camera -Wireless Keyboard, and Magic Mouse -Original Box and Packaging included

Please feel free to message with any questions and for more pictures.

Preferably pay through Paypal of course.

QUESTION===> If your video / film content is not aimed at TV distribution but only for the web and also film-festivals, how crucial is it to have a broadcast monitor for color correction? Are there good, affordable (less than $1,500 or abouts) alternatives to a professional broadcast monitor that give nearly as good results in color critical work? Is there a good source of info on this?

What about a monitor like this: http://www.necdisplay.com/p/desktop-monitors/pa271w-bk

(Although even that is a bit pricey...)