Canon cameras have the HIGHLIGHT TONE PRIORITY function, it works by setting a different iso for highlights. what we need manufacturers implement is this same function but with an option to chose 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 fstops diference.

http://provideocoalition.com/index.php/atepper/story/gh2_adds_missing_avchd_29.97psf_but_worsens_its_already_non-standard_hdmi_o/

Is there any technical reason all these new cameras don't or can't offer this frame rate?

Any techniques that have worked for you in the past? General tips?

Many thanks!

Results are great. I knew the gh2 is going to have blacks baked in, oversharp issues and lower latitude straight from the camera, but I am really impressed by what I got out - 5DtoRGB makes it pretty much comparable to C300- I think the image resolution wise is quite near to the c300 image and could be further tweaked to produce great results, that will go side by side with the best cameras out there.

Got to buy some extra fast cards though, as my allegedly 32gb class 10 Transcend card froze on me a couple of times.. Tell me what u think..

.Patch: quantum 100

.iso 640 (down from 800)

.kelvin 6300

.24h

.standard -2,-2,0,-2

.shutter 40

.lens 14-140.

.AFS - continuous AF off

.OIS on (1)

.Tripod: Camera locked

late afternoon indirect natural light, indoors. grain and noise was constant and pleasing. Color was great and faithful...

But: In the middle of the shoot (two and a half mins in) after a pink shirt appeared on 1/5th of the frame, the image turned greenish, specially on the skin tones Mids.

this samples are two frames apart. direct screenshots from quicktime with avc plugin for playback of mts file.

I've also noticed this almost a year ago in a shoot, using original firmware. In a scene where yellow was background and blue and pink elements appeared in the foreground while panning. kind of like the pink shirt that comes in and out of the frame.

In this case it never goes back to normal up to the end of the clip, up to 5 minutes, the shirt keeps coming on and off frame every 10 seconds.

Anyone noticed this? It looks like although everything is locked the codec is performing some kind of auto white balance adjustment?!

I'm aware of the possible color shift in the first few seconds after you start recording, but this is different.

I've posted this on another thread but it was out of place.

I appreciate your input.

thanks

I'm using Balazer's Cake patch v.1.1 with Ptool 1.63. Thanks in advance for any help.

p.s. yes that ballantine's glass is empty but I'm not seeing things. Yet :)

The footage was as noisy as one would expect. But when I imported it into Adobe Premiere Pro, something interesting happened. When I played the footage back in the preview window, and had the display set to 1/4 resolution, a series of random streaks appeared falling from the upper left to the lower right. It that resembled a heavy rain, or having a lot of thin leaves falling in a strong wind.

The artifacts did not appear when watching the footage at full resolution. As far as I can tell, it doesn't have any negative impact on the video.

As I said, this may not have any real significance. But I was wondering if anyone else has noticed this.

• Should I shoot with the camera in Movie mode on the dial, or should I leave it in M?
• If I leave it in Movie mode do I use HBR mode?
• What should my shutter speed be at? I tried 50 and 100 and it's quite blurry, 500 seems better and 1,000 causes it to crash.
• I'm getting really bad banding especially with lower (50,100) shutter speeds, is this to do with frame rate?
• How is frame rate related to shutter speed, 60i? 24p? I'm not sure I understand it.

Thanks in advance for you help, even a link to learn more would be much appreciated!

Edit: I have an Extreme Pro 64GB SDXC Memory Card.

Another thing i wanted to ask: Is there a hack that gives a good balance of recording time and quality? The hacks out there give superb quality but on the 16gb sd the recording time drops from 2 hours to 20 minutes. Some sort of hybrid would be great - like 720p with long recording time and then the "ultra" settings for "magic" moments.

Hope that fits here, sorry for all the newbie questions - just got a little lost with all the new options.

How feasible is it to have a bargraph or bitrate display added to the GH2 which shows us what bitrate is being recorded? I'm guessing not, but it's something nice to watch when you're tired of looking at beautiful images.

Even if not possible, I hope this is useful to anyone doing any testing who hasn't already noticed the time remaining thing.

here's the link to some promising posts;

http://forums.creativecow.net/thread/124/876733

Any thoughts? What is the situation on clean HDMi 10 bit 422 front?

BR,

Jure

The last picture capturated can be seen after restart, so after each picture i must restar the camera :D

Other peoples have the same problems but no one give some answer.

So anyone have any ideea at what can i do next, i'm still waiting.

I tried several times with different exposures and lenses, same result. So then I did a clean reinstall of firmware 1.0, same problem, likewise with firmware 1.11 and finally back to 3.64 with one check box marked against AVCHD for increase bit rate to 44. I went carefully through the entire process twice with all the firmwares, uninstalling and reinstalling so cannot figure out what happened.

I note that both 24H and 24L in cinema mode came out the same - 10-11 mbps. (Should be respectively 24 and 17 according to the manual.) On the last try after the second reinstall I got 15 mbps on cinema 24H and 12 mbps on HBR mode. The camera is a week old, working fine, the footage looks OK, so is there something I am missing with the camera settings or interpretation of the data?

I noted in another post somewhere here (cannot find it now) that someone else had a similar problem but managed to retrieve the bitrate after reverting to firmware 1.0. I am not sure if they did that working with V1.0 and 3.64 or just reverted to the factory settings of V1.0.

What should I do? Thanks in advance.

1. What it is that I need to tick in the selection boxes of the latest hack to get the mjpeg activated. (I could not find this as shown in the GH1 version.)
2. How to download and install Timelapser.
3. Exactly how to set up optimal settings in the GH2 to utilise Timelapser.

Thanks in advance for your attention and excuse my ignorance of this subject!

Cheers,

Johannes