Zeiss Super Speeds MKII

Zeiss CP.2 Super Speeds

Canon K35's, Canon CN-E

Canon EF

Leica Summilux-C

Optica Elites

Luma Tech Illuminas

i think leica is alien tech, lol, too perfect man

original site: http://matthayslett.com/salt-iii-high-speed-lens-shootout-wfo/

• I'm trying to get a more 'organic' and less harsh image out of the gh2 while retaining most of its fantastic resolution (and without having an 80's glow inherent to some diffusion filters)
• edge sharpening is allegedly responsible for the 'stutter problem' (as discussed in this thread: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/526/gh2-stutterjudderstrobe-issues-discussion/p1)

I've read many forum threads discussing such filters from these following two brands:

• Tiffen diffusion filters: http://www.tiffen.com/filters.htm
• Schneider diffusion filters: https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=427 (Schneider DSLR brochure pdf at the end of this post)

and I've come down to these four filters which seem to be the most interesting in order to achieve the 'look' I'm after:

• Schneider Black Frost https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=1414
• Schneider Hollywood Black Magic https://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=344
• Tiffen Black Diffusion http://www.tiffen.com/black__diffusion.htm
• Tiffen Black Pro-Mist http://www.tiffen.com/promist.htm

Now, the thing is that each one of these filters comes in difference strengths (usually from 1/8 to 2) and I couldn't find any good video example showing the comparison between those filters. I just found some still examples here http://www.thelondonfiltercompany.com/camera_filters.php

I know that the best thing would be to rent these filters for a day or two and see for myself but, unfortunately, there's no rental houses near from where I live…

So, does anyone here have hands-on experience with these filters? Or even better, does anyone have in his possession one or more of these filters and would be willing to do some kind of comparison test?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks^^

Ps: I forgot to mention that I'm talking about using a diffusion filter with a fast prime (like the nokton 25mm 0.95 or nokton 50mm 1.1) and not a Panasonic lens with electrical connectivity with the camera body

It should give a really nice circular bokeh with the number of aperture blades on it. Might be a great cinematic upgrade for lenses with less than desired bokeh. Has 58mm thread, with a max aperture diameter of 37mm. Clickless lever for smooth change.

Question is, would it work if screwed into the front of your lens and how well? Has anybody tried something like this?

I picked up a Soligor 80-200mm lens for my gh2. Anyone know which adapter i need to fit gh2? thanks in advance, -Kris

If you need any more details read on.

When I attached Tokina 11-16 to it, first thing I noticed is very tight fit, no wobble at all, between lens and adapter, and between adapter and GH2 as well. That is the only good thing about it.

Lens does not focus to infinity, actually it does not focus at all, somewhere in the middle the focus scale it does, but it is useless. Than I measured it and it is 0.8mm smaller than the Voigtlander Nikon F - m43/ that I have.

Then I tried to hack/fix the adapter. I have made some kind of nano washers, drilled tiny holes in pieces of metal around 0.5mm thick and inserted them on small screws in between lens mount ring and adapter body. That way I've increased flange distance to the point where lens could focus to infinity (and beyond :)).

But the small screw in the adapter that pushes the aperture lever of the lens now got 0.5mm above the lever, so I had to push something on that too to make it working.

After that I proudly attached the lens and gotten outside only to find out that I have enormous light leaks inside the adapter. The pin that holds Nikon lens has a HOLE to clear it's lever when pushing it. When the pin gets in the lens, hole gapes open. Great thing for lens whacking light leaks experiments.

Then I wrapped some velcro cable ties around, to prevent light from entering the adapter.

Aperture control ring on the adapter is off by few degrees, so it does not reach it's lock position at 'open' side. So i had to unscrew the lens from the adapter for few degrees to allow that ring to open the aperture all the way. So the lens does not click to the adapter, but that tight fit and cable ties hold it quite well.

Now it works.

What a waste of money and time.

When using a camera stabiliser (steadicam, glidecam etc) it's very unlikely that you are going to put the whole rig on with rod holder, rods, FF, MB etc --that's just too heavy, unless, of course, you have a steadicam vest - and most people here don't. Plus, there is the practical irrelevance of using a FF while the camera is on a stedicam (unless of course, you have a separate focus puller person who is using a remotely operated FF - most people here don't).

So the solution is often to take your naked GH2 and place it on the steadicam just as it is. The problem then are the flares. So I thought of getting one of those rubber lens shades that can be easily stuck to the lens, but the problem with those is that they are not always catered for wide angle lenses.

My question: have you ever seen a rubber lens shade that could be attached directly to the lens, but at the same time have collapsible increments like this?

The Leica lenses now fit well and I'm able to remove the camera side to change lenses which is convenient because it's the same for changing Pana, Leica or Nikon lenses. At $10-$15 each these do the job and are left on the lens so should be fine for years with amateur use. Actual machining and finish is surprisingly good though I'd rather see the GH2 side left as bare metal rather than painted even if the paint does look better. Obviously some tolerance issues but for the price this is not unreasonable and when all said and done, it's just a spacer. Average cost of each adaptor $12 including postage - being able to use these treasured lenses again – priceless!

I'm looking for a good MB that is compatible with 4mm thick filters, and this might be just what's needed. Nice updates compared to the older mattebox, dual 360 degree rotation and filter holders that are both 4x4 and 4x5.65. Lanparte's possibly only weak point was their mattebox, they might have just changed that.

It's probably worth asking Lanparte a few questions but could be a mighty fine option on the face of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110994578929

thanks in advance!

Via: http://cinescopophilia.com/fujinon-nd-p01-optical-variable-nd-filter/

Text is quite bumpy, but main idea is that bu turning two gradient wheels in opposite direction you can get even ND from 90% transparancy up to 1/64 original light only.

And no cross and color shift issues associated with reverse poliriser filters. :-)

http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-Adjustable-Filter-Neutral-Density/dp/B004XOP342/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1356451961&sr=8-1&keywords=fotasy+46mm

In the end I decided to go with the Heliopan... (a decision I think I'm now regretting especially considering the price!)

Upon receiving it I discovered the Heliopan has no front filter thread. (The LCW Fader ND does) What annoys me is one of the reviews of the Heliopan Vario on the B&H website refers to the Heliopan having front threads... THEY DON'T!!

Short of a new matte box does anyone have any solution for fitting a hood to a Heliopan Vario or am I just dreaming? If I can't find a solution I will contact B&H and point out the misleading review concerning front threads and send it back to them.

I'm a newbie (those dreaded words!)

I've recently got a GH2 and mainly use it for filming. I'm now looking to get some filters for it (polarising and variable ND) purely for video.

Initially I thought I'd just buy screw in filters, namely the digital ones from Hoya but it quickly dawned on me that that would be an expensive option as it would mean individual filters for each lens due to the different thread sizes on each of them, also I have one which doesn't take filters ( the Panasonic 7-14mm wide zoom).

I then thought that a good option would be slot in filters such as the Cookin variety, as a cheaper option to the screw in type. Also with the slot in filters I would be able to filter the Panasonic 7-14mm? However these filters I understand are made of resin (plastic) so would I be right in thinking that they would not be ideal for filming, not as good as glass screw in filters?

I'm confused to say the least!

I'm contemplating just buying uv filters for all lenses (for protection) and getting a polariser and variable nd one screw in just for my main lens ( the panasonic 14-140mm).

I'm just imagining myself on a sunny day and wanting to reach for 7-14mm panasonic but then thinking "Gee wizz Batman, I can't polarise or use an nd on this" colours could turn out washed out due to reflections, I guess the nd issue could be resolved by stopping down the aperture as I wouldn't get a shallow depth of field on this lens anyhow :-P

I understand a lens as wide as this just isnt possible to have a thread (vignetting issues, protruding lens,) so do I guess the best thing i can do is just stop down on sunny days but no solution for the polarisation?

Thanks

Rafael

His price on ebay was $450, but with the "make a proposal" option, and the adapter had a support bracket.

I understand the Lomo prices madness (I just bought a set of lens for ridicolous price here in Italy, that was luck), but i would like yours opinion about spending $450 for an adapter. And this seller is the factory, no middle men in the business.

I bought from him an oct-18 mount when he haven't the "make an offer" yet, that makes, in my opinion, a factory less serious. The fact is, i saw another seller from same country, and maybe i'll go for a less expensive one.

The bottom line is: people here works for free to do the best things for MFT, and other people are making money on this.

I hope that some factory in China will join the adapter business, i bought from pchood here (Cinematics) and you see you're dealing with serious people. Please share your thougths.

@Vitaliy_Kiselev Do you think we will have MFT adapters from China? It could be lovely :-)

I've been looking at medium format lenses for sometime now, and have half a mind to slap them onto my GH2. I have seen footage produced by such lenses on an unhacked GH2, and even then, the images are quite out of this world.

I managed to track down an adaptor in the market that interfaces 645 mount to m4/3, but it's exorbitant. A cheaper alternative would be to use a 645 to EOS or Nikon adaptor, and then adapt a second time from EOS or Nikon to m4/3.

Does anyone know if this workaround will cause me to lose focus to infinity? In the first place, will the flange distance be right?

Cheers

So her father gave her an entire kit of lenses (from wide to telephoto & some macros) that he used with is old Pentax film camera. But I don't know the exact adapter to mount these on m43. She gave me some pics (like I know what to do with thoses)

Any ideas of a good cheapo hk adapter that fit this (??) mount ?

Here she is with her gh2 : cute isn't she ? Help her/me! =)

I have confirmed with the supplier (as have others) that the filter holders take filters with a maximum thickness of 3mm. While I don't have any 4x4 or 4x5.6 filters .. looking through catalogs .. most/all of the filters (tiffen) I might like to get are 4mm thick.

Has anybody experience/advice with this possible issue and cheaper matteboxes

However, I feel that the issue that I had with my previous ND warranted a separate thread, to discuss an interesting phenomenon: bokeh striation.

I'm not exactly sure what causes it, but this is what it looks like:

Note the "scratchiness" inside the bokeh blobs, particularly in the brightest OOF areas.

I have only ever had this problem while using my L.C.W Mark II variable ND filter, and I haven't seen it in many other videos, so I don't think it's an issue common to all variable ND filters.

It doesn't always happen while using this filter, either. It seems to happen most in high-contrast situations with bright points of light in the OOF area.

Has anyone else run into this problem, if so, can you say anything about what lens and filter you were using at the time?

Thanks!

I bought two lenses Mamiya-Sekor EF 50mm f1.4 and Mamiya-Sekor F.C. 48mm f2.8 hoping to be able to adapt to my gf2 but so far I am unable to find an adaptor.

Would anyone know which adaptor to use with these lenses.

Many thanks, Nitton

Before I go down this road, I'd like to ask you all for some help and input.

1. How much would you be willing to spend? This will determine if there is a market and if it's feasible.
2. Should I go for a slide in and out type filter system (cheaper, and can be available quicker), or a filter wheel type of system (more expensive, and will take longer to become available)?

If there seems to be a lot of interest, I might try to start a Kickstarter campaign.

He says you loose an F stop, but he's only experimented with cheap filters so far and it's possible lighter filters could still work as good and only loose half and F stop.

I can barely make heads or tails of lots of what he talks about....your thoughts?