Personal View site logo
Make sure to join PV on Telegram or Facebook! Perfect to keep up with community on your smartphone.
RJ Lens Turbo m43 adapters
  • image

    image

    Above is Nikon F/G - m43 0.71x.

    image

    • m42 to m43
    • Nikon F /G to m43 (new, with tripod mount ring, check photo above)
    • Canon EOS (passive) to m43 (new, with tripod mount ring, check photo above)
    • Canon FD to m43
    • Monolta MD to m43
    • Pentax K to m43
    • Pentax PKA to m43 (for lenses without aperture rings)

    Improved optics making is sharper than Mitakon offerings.

    Price: adapters without tripod mount - $122 $90, with tripod mount - $129 $99
    Shipping: Price already includes shipping for all countries.

    I want to buy this adapter.

    kipon2.jpg
    578 x 510 - 43K
    kipon3.jpg
    545 x 503 - 41K
    gh4_2new14.jpg
    643 x 500 - 38K
    v24.jpg
    708 x 502 - 48K
    v25.jpg
    660 x 555 - 49K
    v97.jpg
    800 x 633 - 41K
    v98.jpg
    776 x 654 - 39K
  • 782 Replies sorted by
  • I wonder if RJ has any interest in making this for Sony FZ mount? (Either from F or EF mount)

  • @eyeBOX

    Need to make some photos or video. If nothing mechanically broken beyond repair - must be easy to fix.

  • In-built "iris" control broken. Ring nearly closed.. Is the unit serviceable?

  • It's difficult to explain with words what your problem is and your video is way too short and only shows the symptom of the problem without showing the rest. In general, once the breach lock for an FD mount lens is locked in place, it shouldn't be able to pop out of an adapter. The aperture lever is usually the trickiest part of mounting one.

    Have you watched any of the youtube videos on how to use your FD mount adapter? https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fd+mount+lens+adapter

  • Hi dear forum,

    I just received my Lens Turbo II and tried to mount my FD 50mm 1.4 but I cant make the aperture work. I bring the red dot of the lens to the yellow dot of the adapter and twist it towards the red dot (so red dot of adapter and lens match up). While I do that i can feel that the metal screw of the adapter is moving the aperture hock (dont know how that is called), but when the red dots are lined up so the entire lens should fit into the adapter to move again in the other direction its not possible because where the screw is placed the lens pops out a bit and is not fitting into the adapter. if I lift the lens a bit and put it back it fits but the metal aperture hock is not in place anymore and when i screw the lens on the aperture ring is not functioning. i have looked for solutions online, found one guy that said for him it worked to make the screw of the adapter bigger with some rubber because in his case the screw was not lined up with the aperture hook of the lens (thats not the same in my case). tired this as well, funnily one time i somehow manage to get the lens on the adapter with the aperture working but after that always the same (it pops out a bit so i cant mount the lens on the adapter). I made a video, hope you can see the problem there

    please help!

  • Yes unfortunately the comment back was to move both elements in order to stop the rattling.

    I have done an image search, but no luck. Most images are taken at an angle where you can't see how far the element is from the adapter.

  • @Fifty_81

    Are you sure that you need to move elements separately? Normally only all assembly is moved for adjustment of infinity focus.

    You best bet is image search.

  • Hello, I have an RJ adapter and am facing 2 issues. If you shake the adapter you can hear a rattling and there is a slight focus issue (images always slightly blurry). I got instructions from RJ a while back on how to fix this, but unfortunately it involves loosening both elements and moving them and testing until I get a sharp image.

    To speed the process up, I am wondering if anyone knows how far out the front and back elements should be from the adapter? Or anyone who has an adapter that produces clear images, can you take photos of the front and rear elements and where they sit in regards to the adapter?

  • This adapter is not bad. If you understand limitations it very good entry point. Works fine with all of my old FD lenses.

  • Mitakon is much better and it is cheap on deals here.

  • Thanks Vitaliy

  • @brake

    As far as I know no changes are present, it is just old text.

  • HI guys, has the RJ lens turbo had a new version come out or an update to the optics or something? On their website it says "new version" and/or "new optics design"

    http://www.rjcamera.com/ocart/index.php?route=product/category&path=20_65_69

  • I need a couple more adapters--is the RJ the one to get or is there something better now?

  • Well Vitaliy let me clarify with more info my statements... I could buy the RJ turbo from ebay but decided to buy it from Personal View in order to support the site for all the great job with the forums, hacks etc....Since I bought it, i got the horrible blue cast but didn't want to make a big deal about it, I thought I can live with the issues, why bother you with that Vitaliy? I belive you are very busy running the whole site, checking every single post in this site, and you don't make the rj turbo, the manufacturer should be behind his product....well then suddenly I needed to use the rj for making a video for my daughter at her school....the resulting video was so bad with the blue cast that I thought was a time to see why I was getting it...It is not my camera I am using a gh4, I did videos with and without the rj turbo for test and that is how I found that blue cast came from the rj...looking for answer online found that I have to use lens hoods , bought rubber ones, different sizes...same issue. Then looking online in one forum found the website for RJ, I sent emails to them, around 3 no answer at all, until the 4th time the owner Ron Jin sent me an email, saying that I have to do the same things I did already, like using the hoods, stop down the lens etc when I said no support from them I mean no technical support, but customer support, stay behind your product...I told Ron that the RJ turbo is a no go for me, maybe I got a lemon? who knows ,but asked him if it will be possible to send the rj turbo to him and get some kind of store credit and I will pay the difference for an RJ turbo v2 that I thought might have corrected the issue.....but like beforne I got no answer anymore from him...sent emails a couple of times...no answer at all. that is why I decided to share my experience at this thread.

  • I contacted RJ and they were with excuses all the time,no real solutions, NO SUPPORT FROM THEM AT ALL AVOID RJ...GO FOR MITAKON !!

    What kind of support is required, RJ has very good one as I know from year of deals here? I also do not see any of your messages since 2015 (year you got it) about it.

    You can see camera without any adapters having same issue

    http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/221123#Comment_221123

    And article has correct explanation, even showing individual sensor sites visible in reflection.

  • I bought RJ lens turbo canon eos to m43 here...and I can tell you for personal experience STAY AWAY FROM IT...buy MITAKON, Vitaliy has it now on deals....the RJ has the blue cast, which is horrible, I contacted RJ and they were with excuses all the time,no real solutions, NO SUPPORT FROM THEM AT ALL AVOID RJ...GO FOR MITAKON !!

  • I bought the RJ lens turbo (Canon EF to m43) from PV deals in January. I got it for the Samyang 10mm f2.8 lens to create a very wide and bright lens for m43 mount.

    The combination works well when apertures from wide open to 4.0 are used. Sharpness is ok, but focusing has to be precisely correct. The blue dot (or rather a bluish area in the middle with this lens combination) only appears from about f5.6 and smaller apertures. This is unfortunate, as sharpness gets better when the lens is stopped down.

    Because of the blue dot issue I only use lens turbo in dark situations where full aperture is used. It works great for star and aurora borealis photography. For daytime landscape photography sharpness at large apertures is not good enough, and stopping down shows the blue spot. For GH2 video sharpness is good enough at all apertures.

    The is some play between the adapter and camera. Tripod mount is very useful and sturdy.

    The sample photo was taken at full aperture with Olympus E-PM2 (5 s exposure at ISO 800). There is some softness in some parts of the image. Lens hood makes upper and lower parts of the image dark. I haven’t cut it, because it is easy to crop the image a bit.

    rj_turbo_samyang_10mm_f2_8.jpg
    4608 x 3456 - 2M
  • Big prices drop

    Adapters without tripod mount - $122 $90, with tripod mount - $129 $99

    Perfectly fine, especially not for top lenses and indoors.

    For more modern and better quality and more expensive adapters see

    http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/6753/mitakon-lens-turbo-speed-booster-analog-available

  • Ok, but which ones comes from Japan, then ?

    None are assembled outside China. But glass or just glass coating can be Japanese on Metabones.