Official name for this product will be: FLEXIOM

Flexible Input Output Manager (or Module) ...

The official website will be http://flexiom.com (under construction).

Support: feha[@]flexiom.com

P-V members will get rebate.

I have decided to make DIY product for Universal DC converter. This unit will allow use of any power source 3-30v as input and max output current will be 2A. The unit consists of voltage converter that gives you adjustable output for example GH2, GH3 8.4 V or any other equipment that is sensitive and requires exact voltage.

Consider this unit as a protection "Layer" between your DSLR and any power unit.

I know there are many ready power solutions already out on the market, but many still struggle and burn/brick their expensive equipment trying different alternative powering sources.

I decided to take my time and make this DIY product as a test but if there is an interest might get as batch production.

The unit will cost a $75 USD + postage (P-V members price). More than 65% of the price to buying needed components the rest a small compensation for research, drill and soldering :-)

For EACH UNIQUE SALE (per member) I will contribute a $10 USD to support P-V !

Product components :

• ABS plastic project box

• Electronics component (The converter)

• DC IN/OUT 5.5x2.5 mm jacks

• Digital Voltmeter (RED) with external switch to check IN voltage, OUT voltage and OFF

Let me know your interest ?

I looked through the current threads and did not see much info about this. If I missed it, can someone please point me in that direction and then Vitaliy can close this thread.

Edit: Also, do you need to have matching capacity batteries on these 312 LED lights? And do the two batteries run in a series or in parallel - essentially do they increase the voltage by having two, or simply extend the run time?

Thanks!

The added advantage is that it will balance the rig and place the weight all on my shoulder, and off my hands and arms.

So, here's my calculations, which are a little alarming:

GH2 is 3.4W (nominal) power consumption Neway 7" monitor is 8W power consumption

8W + 3.4W = 11.4W

160Ah battery is the Gold mount battery I am considering, from Globalmediapro.com - about £170

A x V = W

160Ah x 14.4v = 2304Wh

2304Wh / 11.4w = 202 Hours!!!

Could it even approach 202 Hours?

To check I looked at the same calculations with a 7000mAh (7Ah) large camcorder battery, which came to 4.4 Hours, which is believable.

So, 202 Hours!!!????!!!! Really? Did I go wrong somewhere here?

Don't know if this has been posted before, but it looks like an interesting alternative..

Has any one had a good experience with a specific brand and can any one recommend one or two names to me?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Electronics shop open today but not tomorrow, closes at 5pm today (1:36pm as of writing), I'll get there about 45 min before it closes (currently at work).

Not a huge lot of options. But I'm going to see if I can rig up a simple voltage regulator based on zener diodes and a resistor with 10x AA Eneloop XX's (just under 14.3v total at full charge voltage iirc). They dont have a large variety, the best looks like a 9.1v 1watt zeneor diode, producing a maximum current of 110ma by the looks of it, so I'll stick a bunch in parallel to raise the maximum current output.

The question is, how much max current do I need for powering the GH2? Just need an emergency option without over-volting the camera (what is the highest safe voltage btw? Eneloop XX's provide very stable voltage for what they are).

Otherwise one option is to power regular with regular Eneloops, from testing, high current draw, the voltage sag is minimal, and stable over it's capacity.

In Melbourne CBD, Australia if someone has an alternative thats open till 5pm today

edit: Just read you can't easily put zener diodes in parallel.. well this is annoying

I used an LM3485 3Amp switching regulator evaluation board because 1) I had one lying around, and 2) they are nearly 100% efficient, and don't get warm. The battery holder is a tray from a BLC12 charger I bought off Ebay, and the LED voltage display is also off Ebay (it draws a negligible 10ma and allows you to guesstimate how much battery charge is left). Photos of the rig below.

It would be much easier to just have bought an external USB battery pack, but they are heavy and bulky. This way I get double use out of the batteries I already carry around with my rig.

Price: $23.35 with free shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMW-AC8-DMW-DCC8-DC-Coupler-AC-Power-Adapter-for-Panasonic-Lumix-DMC-GH2-GH2H-/220950905405

http://www.everydaysource.com/product/blc12-battery-charger-for-panasonic-dmc-gh2-lumix-dc/BPANBLC12CS1?esprcshopdtf130318=sc+shop+BPANBLC12CS1

Currently I have these generic 500 Led lights

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bi-Color-2pcs-500-LED-Video-Light-Camera-Sutdio-Film-Panel-Continuous-Lighting-/121057387126?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2f952276

and use these generic batteries

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-12V-DC-4800mAh-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-CCTV-B4-2-3-lens-AF100-GH2-/170969861114?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item27ce990bfa

I bought some 4 pin XLR tips off Amazon and sottered up DC to XLR converters, which work great to power my LED lights. I use velcro to stick the batteries to the back of my lights when in use. I can only get the dimmer up to around 75% before it cuts out. Each battery will last for about 2 hours on maximum, with no dimming- it just cuts out when dead. All in all, it's a decent solution, however, I really dislike how the batteries have no capacity indicator, and they take overnight to fully charge.

Does anyone else have any other solutions they've worked with? I'd be interesting in wiring up a battery that would have some kind of capacity indicator.

Geared mostly for Canon and Nikon cameras. But with voltage converter can be used for Panasonic also. They are working on improved version.

For use with V mount batteries.

Will be available from time to time at http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/1029/catchit-deals-varavon-day

• do people use a separate case for all chargers, possibly with built in power boards?
• best labelling method for batteries (e.g. just "dyno" style sticky labeller?)
• good simple ways to tag a battery as charged/flat? (e.g. reversible green/red sticky/velcro patches?)
• best methods for labelling and wrangling cables (e.g. particular velcro tab products)

I am finding that it is really helpful to have a checklist at the charging station that includes ... the charge/discharge times for all batteries ... a "key" for what the lights mean on different chargers ... numbering of all batteries for the same device (der!). This sort of micro detail management can make or break a shoot when you have late night turn-arounds and a sleepy camera assistant. Just puttin it out there to maybe save some headaches ...

Here are the links to a sample battery and my receiver :

The battery : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-New-Black-5V-9V-12V-3-in-1-portable-DC-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-Emergency-/321000318189?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item4abd1c24ed

My receiver : http://www.shure.com/americas/products/wireless-systems/performance-gear-systems/pg88-dual-channel-diversity-receiver

The power adapter that came with the system is indicating :

INPUT : 120/127V~ , 60Hz 150mA Max. OUTPUT : 12 --- 400mA

Just wondering whether anyone has had any experience with using official GH2 batteries from different regions from where they bought their GH2 from.

I.e. Using a Japanese GH2 battery in an Australian GH2.

I only ask as there's two different GH2 battery models: DMW-BLC12 (America / Japan) DMW-BLC12E (European / Australian)

The power output is the same on both models. (7.2V 1200mAh 8.7Wh)

Thanks.

i plug the wall adapter in to the 12v hole and nothing happens. no red light appears on the wall charger or the battery while plugged in. when i plug the battery in and i turn the battery on, there is a green light on the battery and the wall charger. is that how i am supposed to charge it? with the battery in the on position?

if i do indeed need to see a red/orange light on the charger, does the battery need to be used beyond a certain threshold? like, since i have only used it to film for an hour, it hasn't used up enough energy for the circuitry to allow the battery to be charged?

any help will be greatly appreciated.

• Input voltage: 4~40V;
• Output voltage: 1.5~35V (adjustable);
• Max output current: 3A
• Voltage step down converter

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/mini-dc-4-40v-to-dc-1-5-35v-voltage-step-down-transformer-module-142488

I've already got the dcc8, and removed the original adapter to solder on a more standard sized connector (radio shack, size M DC plug) so that I could plug in the plethora of 9v 2A wall warts I already had. But I need to be able to shoot for hours at this event without being near a wall plug. What do you guys think are my best options (without breaking the bank)?

Someone mentioned the Tekkeon Mp3450i: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/618847-REG/Tekkeon_MP3450I_myPower_ALL_Plus_MP3450i.html/ but at $140, it seems kind of pricey to me. I feel like once I've gone so DIY this far, I should be able to do this for less than $80, right? I've seen those cctv batteries from china, but ordering from China takes too long to ship (shoot is in 2 weeks, shipping from china generally takes 3-4 where I live).

Some options I've been considering: http://www.amazon.com/15000mAh-External-Motorola-Portable-eletronics/dp/B0067XMPNY/ref=pd_ybh_14 This one looks interesting- has an LCD display. Not sure if that doubles as a battery life indicator, but the price is nice.

http://www.amazon.com/EZOPower-High-capacity-Rechargable-10000mAh-Blackberry/dp/B005XQSN9G/ref=pd_ybh_11 I like this one simply because it is Amazon Prime compatible and has some reviews. Its less capacity than the previous option, which had 50% more than this.

Then there's the whole RC battery thing... I have no idea where to even start with those! I've seen some folks post about how great they work, 8+ hours, etc- And videos like this one:

But then I hear rumors about how when these unregulated RC batteries are are first charged, they peak at more capacity than they are rated for (some close to 10+ Volts, even approaching 11 according to someone's volt meter), and how folks have fried their GH2's power chip using them. This makes me nervous. But some folks have claimed great results with this, so...

I'm looking for any kind of advice/guidance at this point. Thanks!

Thanks