-not showing basic exposure information (aperture, shutter and iso).

-no auto iso in M with EV comp although it has a dedicated EV comp button. In fact I can not find any other reasonable use for that button than EV comp with auto iso in M.

-no iso limit like in photo modes.

-AE lock button works crippled.

-full auto uses very high shutter speeds.

-no shutter speed limit.

-all special features like long shutter speeds or slow motion works only after everything (AE+AF) is in manual.

-all Panasonic objectives has stepping aperture.

It cant be a lack of knowledge. Panasonic has limited exposure options in purpose. But why?

Thanks

• Low level audio noise due to screen and electronic interference, become worse with mikes powered by plug-in power.
• Issue with 24Hz modes with some monitors, more details at http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/10334/gh4-issues-with-monitors#Item_15

I just bought a GH4 and I am trying to get it to work with my FCP 7, but is does not really work well yet. I prefer to film in FHD 100Mbps 25P, and I need to film longer than 30 min..The camera is bought in US and does film continuously more than 30, but it chops up the files in small pieces of 4.27GB (6.40 min). There are 2 problems in this: 1) When importing in FCP7 it imports well, but when put on the timeline, "General Error" appears and it will not play it. I have tried to convert to ProRess HQ, and this plays well, but a second problem appears: 2)every 6:40 min I lack 2 frames both audio and video, and this is really not what I need, I need a continuos file for more than 6.40 min...

What can I do?

Does anybody have any problem with connecting Windows 10 laptop to GH4 or GH3 directly with WiFi? I tried setup cameras as access point and connect to them as usual access point but Windows is in connecting state infinitely. I tried to Add Device and connect from cameras via WiFi direct but after I select laptop in camera nothing happens

I have no any problem connecting camera in both ways using Android device.

And if you know how connect camera via WiFi direct in UWP C# it would be a miracle.

Is it worth the upgrade?

Thanks!

I will be receiving a pre-production unit to test next week and want to put it through its paces. I will have access to the body, xlr adapter, battery grip, and the new 12-60 Leica kit lens.

Please comment below with your test requests and any specifics and I will do my best to accommodate! Let me know the features that you're really excited to see, and features you've seen examples of but have questions about. I will have it for approximately 2-3 weeks and will be doing a daily vlog showcasing as much as possible.

As stated in the other thread, I have many scheduled shoots already as I am a full time videographer/photographer and will be using this as a chance to really see how it performs in a real-world setting!

Once the requests come in and videos come out, I would like to assemble them in a stickied post at the top of this thread if possible with the type of test, and the link beside it (eg. GH5 low light comparision to GH4 and G85)

I have a large collection of vintage lenses I will be testing, as well as comparing lumix lenses across my other Lumix cameras such as GH4, G85 (G80) and GX85 (GX80)

Looking forward to hearing your requests!

I'm looking to buy a GH4 and was just wondering if it's still possible to download V-Log for free via that download link that went around?

And I'm also considering getting a Windows two-in-one-- that is, if the Panasonic app works under the Android emulators available for Windows. The benefits there are having two OSes, more options for things like hard drives, and maybe even getting a machine capable of running Premiere Pro for some editing in the field.

So, I'm looking for advice. Does the Panasonic app work under an Android emulator well enough for field use? Has anyone else used equipment in this manner? (And is Panasonic considering creating a version of its app to run under Windows?)

I love to see a better video auto focus system. DFD has already removed the first wrong direction start of the focus pull, but I like to address the second wrong direction autofocus pull, the "focus confirmation" rack at the end of the auto focus pull.

I'm not an engineer but I like to understand what is happening what, how, where, when and why.

At this moment the Auto Focus system for video looks the same as for stills. And for stills it works fast and well, accept in continuous high when it has a hard time keeping up with fast action. For video (akin to a very high number of stills) the AF is way to slow, and the focus confirmation pull is very distracting and jarring.

If DFD is able to measure the blur amount, and therefore can measure how far the subject is, the I think a reprogramming of the focus system can help to get rid of that jarring focus confirmation refocus.

I can think of this focusing system:

Focus pull situation:

1) DFD measures the amount of blurr, 2) compares it to the current focus distance, 3) estimates subject distance, 4) smoothly starts racking focus, 5) measures amount of blur half way racking focus, 6) checks the blur shift amount of the first and second measurement, outputs second focus target distance, 7) at the last part of the focus rack the focus speed eases off to arrive at the second estimated focus distance.

Continuous AF situations:

1) DFD measures the amount of blurr, 2) compares it to the current focus distance, 3) estimates subject distance, 4) smoothly starts racking focus, 5) measures amount of blur half way racking focus, 6) checks the blur shift amount and compares it to the first measurement, calculates subject movement, 7) rack focus to second focus target distance, 8) checks the blur shift amount and compares it to the previous measurement, calculates subject movement, 9) repeat 7 and 8 until no blur.

10) If subject leaves the frame maintain the current focus distance for x time before starting with 1 on the new subject in the assigned focus area.

Maybe DFD blur measurements are hard & slow, so having measurements while the camera is auto racking focus is harder to do, but I prefer a slower focus much over racking past the focus and racking back in video.

As a compromise DFD could be used to make a 1 time focus distance estimate, the focus racks smoothly (s curve) to the estimated distance, and stops (without racking past the estimate focus distance AND racking back). This would be good enough for a G85, and the more processing heavy higher DFD sample rate for the high end GH5. I must admit this all hinges on DFD accuracy in measuring the blur and estimating the subject distance.

What do you people think? Love to learn how the current contrast and DFD actually works. Love to hear your suggestions of how to improve AF.

In every last two B frames in the each GOP the image breaks into some mud when there are details.

It seems Panasonic is using GOP 12: " IBB PBB PBB PBB " and in the last two "BB" frames the codec does not handle the image.

This issue keeps repeating two times each second and makes the image jumps two times each second, very annoying.

See the frame grabs from G7 4k footage (a crop from 4k frames), the P frame is ok, the I frame is ok, but the B frames are bad:

App Method: Use the Lumix Link app to set the timecode for each GH4 to the time on the mobile device and then use Time of Day timecode mode.

YAGH Method: Use a YAGH to jam true timecode to the GH4 from a master clock.

The App Method seems easiest and cheapest if it is accurate enough. Has anyone tried it yet with multiple GH4s?

If the App Method doesn't sync cameras with sufficient accuracy, do you need a YAGH for each camera, or can you attach the YAGH to a GH4 to jam timecode and, once that camera's clock is set, move the YAGH to the other cameras in turn to jam sync timecode. In other words, once the GH4's timecode is set via the YAGH, does the camera retain it when the YAGH is removed? This would let one YAGH serve multiple cameras for timecode jamming purposes.

Thanks!

I've been having these glitches(see pictures below). They started a few months ago, (I checked my older footage). But it's not just mine, three rental models had the exact same issue! Is this a known issue with this model? It ruined a quite some of my shoots.

Also, I send for repair and they put in a new 'mainboard'. But that hasn't solved the problem. I returned it again but I don't have a good feeling about it.

Any suggestions?

I was satisfied with the IBIS, especially when paired with a Panasonic lens.

Just looking at the video on its own, it's somewhat hard to tell. But if you're scrubbing through different shots, you can definitely see it. I made a gif comparing two identical shots, and you can clears see large dark yellow lines in the video: http://gifmaker.cc/PlayGIFAnimation.php?folder=20170119148rfTBjPEQ0fZEqE0dSjwXB&file=output_ZpFhpX.gif

Any ideas what could be causing this? I've seen this while shooting on 24p cinema as well as 720p@60fps at several different ISO and shutter speed values.

Not sure if anyone else has encountered this, I've done a quick search and come up with nothin...

I've been using the atomos assassin with my GH4, and noticed that the footage from the assassin is slightly more contrasty/darker than footage recorded internally. I assume it's something the GH4 is doing, because it only seems to happen with V-LOG, not with standard. (I couldn't really be bothered checking with all the other colour modes...)

Here's a clip of me A/B-ing it on a premiere timeline with the scopes up. V-LOG, then standard. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hiugamp6hfbved4/gh4-assassin-contrast-level.mp4?dl=0

(obviously I don't own a colour chart, a set of pencils was the bet I could manage...)

This was recorded 8-bit, as it was the only way I could record both at the same time, but it happens with 10-bit too. At 4K as well as HD. Both the assassin and GH4 are running the most up-to-date firmware, as of Jan 2017.

Did I mess with some settings somewhere? Is my camera haunted? Is this something other people have noticed?

It doesn't actually bother me that much, I guess this is just a "what's up with that?" kinda question. So yeah. What's up with that?

As he has one of the few GH5 existing you can ask very specific things.

Originally, my plan was to get a used GH4 (now that the GH5 is announced), but I'm reading up on the G85 and thinking it might be better in some regards. Let's say for simplicity that I can get a used GH4 for $800, or I can get a new G85 for $800 - so cost would be the same. Also, let's also assume that I likely wouldn't get the VLog upgrade or buy an external recorder if I went the GH4 route. If I had the extra funds for those (which I don't), I would probably just try and stretch a little further and get a GH5 sometime over the summer.

Knowing that I want to be doing wedding work, I've been considering getting a Metabones SpeedBooster Ultra 0.71x (Canon EF) and Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 (Canon EF) lens. I know M43's cameras are not great in low light, and not great at getting that shallow depth of field (both of which will be important for wedding videography), but my understanding is that that adapter+lens combo can help bring back at least some of that capability into any M43's camera I go with. (As an aside, I'm wanting to go with the Canon EF system because I have friends with Canon EF lenses that I can borrow, and I'm going with the Ultra because I want it to be the preferred adapter if/when I'm able to hopefully get a used GH5 in 1.5-2 years).

My main recording formats when filming would be 4K 24fps, or a high fps 1080p recording when I need slowed down footage. I plan to have the majority of my released films (both weddings and shorts) be in 1080p24fps, but I will be filming in 4K when I can so that I can scale down the footage to 1080p for the best results. I also expect there to be a some need for slowing down footage (especially when it comes to the wedding films), so I plan to occasionally use the 1080p high frame rate options with whichever camera I go with.

In terms of recording formats between the two, the GH4 obviously beats the G85, but I'm wondering if the G85 might still be good enough. It still has 1080p60fps (although at what looks to be a god-awful 28Mbps bit rate), and it has UHD 4K at 24fps at 100Mbps. The GH4 can do 1080p60fps at 100Mbps (can also do 200Mbps with All-I). Or the GH4 can push to 96fps at 100Mbps. And the GH4 has Cinema 4k at 24fps at 100Mbps.

Additionally, the GH4 has ports for both mic and headphone, whereas the G85 only has a mic jack. However, there seems to be a $50 workaround to get a headphone to work with the G85's HDMI-out. The GH4 is all metal, whereas the G85 still uses some plastic (although both are weatherproofed).

However, the IBIS and better low light on the G85 are very welcome benefits over the GH4. I've heard the EVF might be slightly better on the G85. And both have no recording limits (I'd be buying the US NTSC version). I believe both can display zebras and histograms, as well.

Are there any other major downsides with video on the G85 when compared with the GH4 that I'm not considering for my use case? I'm used to the GH2, so I'm sure there will be some "pro video" features that I might miss that I'm currently not thinking about. Any other reasons why I shouldn't go with the G85 that I'm not capturing above?

Thoughts?

However, when I got it back after repair (in 2014?) the LCD did not turn on when it was extended away from the camera body. I shipped it in for repair again and as far as I recall the complete hinge assembly with cable was replaced. Now the LCD worked correctly again.

Summer of 2016 the LCD went dead again. However some light tapping/knock shock to the side of the body/hinge makes the LCD turn on again in some positions, but the colors are sometimes posterized or the image is darker than normal. There is no wobbly hinge, but it seems that the flex cable in the hinge has issues yet again.

Looking for parts on ebay I find both the flex cabel as a separate part and the flex cable allready attached to the hinge assembly.

Do anyone have experience replacing the complete hinge with flex cable?

Also, I'm kind of disappointed about the flex cable malfunctions. Is this a typical problem of cameras with rotating LCDs? Looking at the GH3 flex cable parts on ebay they seem to sell a lot...

I owned a GF2 since 2012 and bought a used GX1 recently for video shooting.

I hacked my GF2 with settings with over 100 Mbps in MP4 and the gear worked well with my Sandisk 45m/s card (U-1) Then I hacked the GX1 with the same setting (for example, driftwood's MOON T9) and used the same Sandisk 45 m/s card. Surprisingly GX1 always showed writing error due to card speed, which never happened with my GF2! I tried several lower mbps settings at around 60-70 mbps with my GX1, no writing error came up, but the video became very unsmooth when played in my computer. The unsmooth playback is obviously caused by the insufficient writing speed during recording.

Quite confused that GX1, a camera supporting SDXC U1 card, could have insufficient wrting speed problem which never happens with GF2, an older model without SDXC card support.

I know GX1 is not a gear metioned often here, but I still would like to know any GX1 owner or any expert ( like @Vitality_Kiselev or @Driftwood :)) could help with it.

BTW, this is my first post and I would like to take the chance to thank every setting provider like @Vitality_Kiselev , @Driftwood for bringing my GF2 to a new level of videography. I have so much fun with it!!!

Thank you!

• Auto iso in M
• Auto iso upper limit (no more camera running easily to iso 6400)
• Shows all exposure values in all modes
• Changing PASM modes for video just turning mode dial
• Different aspect ratios 1:1 4:3 3:2
• Toggling video/photo camera just pressing FN-button (4kphoto on/off)
• I can have more presets for video (PASM + C memories)
• When playing video I can zoom in with any frame
• Showing frame exif when extracting image from video

I must test if the 4k photo has any drawbacks. Playing videos with camera is not so easy than with normal videos. The 4k video file is the same as normal mp4 100Mbs 30P video with levels 0-255. Cine profiles are not included but I use Natural anyway.

any help are welcome

fred ++

Just got a used GH2 and I wonder which GH2 hack gives me just longer recording and my second wish: clean HDMI out (preferable without recording on SD card). Any recommendations? Which is nowadays the "best" hack I could use?

Kind regards

sws

So that's where this comes in, the SD card door on my GH1 recently broke, not sure how but it has, it don't latch properly at the front of the camera making it protrude, I saw a post about this on personal-view where someone fixed it by gluing a needle to it, but with quite vague directions, the only other solution I can think of is either buying a used G1/GH1 just for a door, or to somehow figure out how to fix my door

Does anyone have an idea of how it can be fixed? pictures would really help here as I have no idea what a non broken door looks like, its not one of them things I really paid attention to before it broke