I just got my GH3 back from service where they swapped the main board. The problem is that it now has NTSC framerates instead of the PAL framerates that I need. It also has some kind of service menu now called ROM BACKUP as you can see in the attached picture.

It was returned with firmware 1.0 and I have upgraded to 1.1 without that making any difference.

Is there any way to get it back to PAL framerates, or do I have to return it once more?

Thanks!!

Has there been a hack to get the high speed burst mode (40fps) of the GH2 at a lower res to get faster fps? Is there no way this can be done? Is it hardwired or something?

I am hoping that I just missed a setting somewhere and that it's possible to set it up so that the red video button handles the stop/start, and the main shutter button does focus only. It wouldn't be the first time I've been confounded and confused by the settings!

Cheers and thanks in advance, Lori

Do you thing my 14-42 power zoom lens can be saved?

I have tried a blower to remove the dust and also swabbed the sensor with a cleaning kit which removed all the dust etc. but this mark remains!!!

So what does it look like to you and has anyone encountered something similar?

Thanks in advance all!

It would be nice if they would enable this in the GH3 on the next firmware update.

Any tips on how to not do this again in the future would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

thanks

I typically shoot with 'Smooth' all at -2, but that's so I get a very flat, gradable image. I will probably transcode the AVCHD files straight to an internet ready H.264 file, but I have no plans of grading any of it.

I notice my gh2 is shaky when I record. I see stablizers out there, but I have a MANUAL forcus lens on my GH2, a canon FD 50mm.

This wont work as I have to focus manually.

Whats the best low light wide lens I could use for the gh2?

is there a way to set the wheel on camera so that it defaults to aperture setting?

right now, it defaults to shutter speed...and then i have to push wheel to switch to aperture.

seems like there should be a way to set it so it starts on aperture and not shutter speed...

thanks for any advice. goro

Do you all have an opinion on a nice SMALL M43 camera supported by the hack? This would likely be a B camera on future shoots, and would be a great travel/family camera. The GX1 looks nice. If the hack allows me to get great footage and manual app controls over filming, then I would be THRILLED!

Any feedback is GREATLY appreciated. I love my hacked GH2s... Vitality has done amazing work.

following these steps for DIY IR filter, the main board removal looks doable: http://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/panasonic-lumix-gh2-ir

thanks in advance for any info!

Any suggestions?

My charger died after around two charges and from new my camera has had an odd feel when the shutter release button is pressed at even the slightest angle. I was starting to wonder why I randomly couldn't review my photos or access the quick menu, it seems the button is sticking at the half press position.

As the button has been popping up at an angle it has rubbed on the paint which is now starting to flake off causing more sticking problems. To date I have probably used the camera five times but I am worried Panasonic will deem it as being user error as even to me it would look that way.

Has anyone else had a similar problem with a GH2?

Apologies for the poor pic- http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/fairy1_02/P1110639_zps34aba5ec.jpg

I am in the UK where these cameras can sell very cheaply on ebay

Thanks

CmountMan

I'm really sorry if this has been asked before but I have had a good look around the forum and others but is there any way to reduce the resolution of raw images taken in any of the modes on the GH2. My situation is that I would like to do some short time lapses by taking images rather than video. By holding down the shutter button the buffer empties in such a way that it can take 1 15MP RAW image every 2 seconds. If I could reduce the MP of the image I believe that I could reduce this time. I realise that using a faster SD card would also reduce this time, more over around 6MP would do the job just fine, please let me know if this is possible or any alternatives.

Thanks, Max.

I am not sure how to get the 24p playback smoothly. Video is not smooth even when recording and playing back. Since the 24p is higher bit rate, I wish the video plays back as smooth as the manual movie. Grateful for advise from your experience as I am not well into it yet.

Thanks in advance

P.S. Now w/o facebook advertising :) Hope I won't be banned for posting this topic second time.

I was reading the other day about de-clicking old Nikon lenses, and people's comments about how they'd like to slightly tweak the iris "on the fly" to adjust for minor light changes. Since I have a photographer background, the first thing that came to my mind is "Why would you want to do that? Doing so will change the depth of field!". Ok. Tweaking can be interpreted as "less than a click", that is, less than 1 stop (or 1/2 in some brands). But still, my question to you guys is "Why?" Is it because it is the only basic parameter (Aperture/SSpeed/ISO) that you can change on the fly, and not via camera menus? (You wouldn't want to change the SSpeed anyway.... And for the sake of this discussion, let's pretend we are on the less noisy side of the ISO values). What are the benefits of changing Iris? If you could decide to change Iris vs ISO (which takes me back to "Panasonic: Auto-ISO in Manual Movie Mode, por favor...!!!"), which one would you choose?

Let the fun begin...