How to expose for the best DR in an outdoor scene (beach on a sunny day). Will I get the most DR by trying to preserve as much highlights as possible or the opposite or something else? Or it doesn't matter where I expose and DR will always be the same number of stops and anything above or below the DR range will never be recovered?

In an indoor scene with some harsh/hot lights and shadows will I get the most DR by clipping the shadows or the highlights or it doesn't matter (DR will always be whatever the number of stops regardless of exposure)?

Whenever I shoot I see the highlights blown out quicker than the shadows but that's just from what I see. No real scientific evidence.

Thanks!

I do mostly stills, time-lapse, and occasionally some amateur videography at the moment. The second body should therefore be something good wrt stills (they probably all are), and something I could fool around with while the GH3 is primary on time-lapse-assignment, maybe even do a secondary time-lapse sequence (so internal intervalometer would be nice). Video quality should be ok but does not need to be on par with the GH3. The body should also be smaller (and a lot cheaper) than the GH3, since it will be a B-body I want to bring "just in case" in the bag when the GH3 returns, but which will probably often not be used at all. Compatibility with my Metz mecablitz 58 AF-2 for Olympus / Panasonic / Leica is also something I want.

Anyone in a similar situation? Or just with a good suggestion? I am currently leaning towards something Olympus just to get some experience with in-body image stabilisation compared to Panasonic OIS (and to get stabilisation with the manual / adaptor-mounted lenses).

Would this work? Is there a better way? Cheers

Now, two weeks later, exactly the same problem has happened again. I was walking along taking pictures, I went to turn it on again and.. nothing. It didn't get wet or dropped. I've tried a different battery etc.

Any idea what would cause this twice so quickly? I'm travelling with a number of spare batteries and I'm wondering if it's possible that a discharge from the bad battery could blow the power circuity in the camera? Or is it more likely a bad repair job?

http://www.ebay.in/itm/Fotodiox-Lens-Mount-Adapter-Pentax-K-PK-to-Micro-4-3-Olympus-PEN-and-Pana-BQG-/290866762370?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item43b9029282&_uhb=1#ht_2562wt_1139

If they do which one would be a better buy out of the two for the lens? Will i be able to change the aperture on the lens if i were to use either of these adapters on my GH2? Also, if anyone has a zenith helios or knows anything more about it, please do share with me in terms of video quality.

I know it says M 4/3 but i have had issues with another vintage i had bought with a M42 adapter so i thought its best i cross check with the knowledgeable enthusiasts out here. :) Cheers!

This year I specifically bought the GH3 and 35-100mm F2.8 to shoot the National Championships. I have to remain very mobile at the comp going from climb to climb so a tripod or even a monopod is not really practical. There are usually 5 or 6 rows of people in front of you so it is hard to shoot over them. I usually lift the camera over my head and use the flip-out screen to frame the shot.

I shot the video below entirely hand held with the GH3 and 35-100mm F2.8. About half of the shots were at 100mm and I never had to use the ETC mode. I have a GoPro 3 Black that I leave running for wide angle shots at 4k and 15 FPS or 720p @ 120 FPS. However, the GoPro really isn’t in the Video Quality league that the GH3 is even at Ultra-HD resolutions.

I wasn’t entirely satisfied with the results from a stabilization stand point this year. I had to stabilize a few of the 100mm shots in software but it is clearly better than last year’s results without the in-lens stabilization.

There is also the fact that I had a stake in the game for some of the shots. My son and his teammates made it much further in the competition this year. Therefore, I was shaking like a leaf in those shots.

My son’s final climb starts at 4:11 into the video. Even with the software stabilization it was obvious that I was shaking uncontrollably. Just check the two clips after that on the same climb. They are almost rock solid without any software IS at all. Those clips were taken almost an hour later after my heart rate had a chance to come back down out of the stratosphere.

In the end my son jumped from last place to 3rd in the final round and made the US National Team for the first time. His teammate also won his 4th consecutive National title and will compete at Worlds next month.

Let me know what you think about this video. I didn’t do any color grading at all. This is simply the Scenery color profile essentially straight out of the camera. I used AFF the entire time and I use the touch screen hand held for all of the focus pulls.

I can’t believe how well some of the iPad focus pulls turned out.

Anyone who says that m4/3s focus isn’t fast enough or accurate enough is simply just doing it wrong or they are basing that opinion off of the older cameras. It is the easiest thing to just drag the focus from object to object on the LCD screen. I never use the EVF either. I think the LCD screen is much easier to use.

I also save stills from these videos directly in the cameras playback mode to upload them to facebook for instant sharing. Most people are shocked at how good the quality of the movie stills is. They are also surprised when I have uploaded pictures of their climber before the climber is even done climbing their route.

I shoot the videos in stills mode. Most people assume that you have to use full manual controls or at least shutter priority mode for video to control the shutter speed. However, I use the flicker control setting to fix the shutter speed to 1/120 of a second for the 1080p @ 60 FPS video I shoot. This is also a good way to get around the fact that the GH3 only does 1/125 of a second shutter speed for stills. The flicker control is a true 1/120 of a second shutter duration.

Overall I couldn’t be happier than I am with both the GH3 and the 35-100mm F2.8 lens. I use it in full auto mode for video so I can even hand the camera off to someone else if I need them to shoot some video.

I never intend to sell my videos so I am not a Professional photographer. However, I do want the best quality. With the GH3 + 35-100mm I can get that. However, lately I have been recommending the FZ200 and LX7 to the other climbing parents and they are able to get very similar results for much less money.

The days of needing $10,000 worth of gear to shoot high quality footage are over. The GH3 is better than anything else I have ever shot with for video and it holds its own for stills against the APS-C cameras.

It appears that low light AF is improved. and several new settings are added. I don't fully understand when AF is improved though. Is it when the scene is underexposed or just when you are using a high ISO? I have tried some tests with my v1.1 firmware GH3 but it seems to do an excellent job already without the update.

Has anyone applied the update already. Will applying this update prevent you from using a Hack/Patch that is based off of the v1.1 firmware? If so then I imagine a lot of people won't update right away. I don't intend to hack my GH3 so I will give v1.2 a shot.

http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/dsc/download/fts/index2.html

There is a good explanation of the low light focusing by Andy Westlake at the link below.

http://www.dpreview.com/news/2013/07/09/panasonic-releases-firmware-updates-for-lumix-dmc-gh3-and-g5-mirrorless-cameras

Here are the changes

Ver.1.2

"Low Light AF" is added that makes it possible to set focus on the subject in low-lit situations (-3EV).

"Silent Mode" is added which suppresses electronic shutter, shutter sound, operation sound and flash emission with a single setting.

"Exposure Comp. Reset" is added which resets the setting of exposure compensation to ±0 whenever the camera is turned off or the shooting mode is changed.

Performance of AF is enhanced in use with H-PS14042 and H-PS45175.

Connection problem with Apple Mac computers via Wi-Fi is fixed.

Then I noticed that I'd made a mistake: I'd set my shutter speed to 25, i.e., 1/25th of a second. I was concerned that the stuff we'd shot would be unusable, with strange blurs or occasional frame skipping or pull-down, but it looked just fine. (I've shot at 2 frames per second, and that tends to duplicate a lot of frames.)

As I said, there's no problems I need to fix here, but if someone could explain to me why this setting didn't screw up my video, I'd appreciate it.

ISSUE DESCRIPTION: When switching on the GF2, within <1sec an error message appears "Schalten Sie die Kamera aus und und wieder ein" = "Switch camera off and on again".

WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have switched the camera off/on multiple times. I have removed the (still fully loaded) battery. I have removed battery + SD card. I have removed the lens. I have tried with another lens. I have tried with another SD card. I have tried with another battery (fully loaded). Not successful. Still the very same error message comes up.

WHAT DOES WORK: The connection to the PC/Mac via USB still works, I can access the SD card.

SIDE NOTE: I wanted to change the firmware to the original GF2_V11.bin or any other; but the camera does not access at all the SD card allowing me to change the firmware. The error message comes up within <1sec.

QUESTIONS: => Is there any knowledge how to overcome this error message? => Is there any hidden trick like pressing a button when being switched on to factory reset the GF2?

Many thanks, Torsten

EXAMPLE

Camera: GH2

Mode: 24p (Cinema)

Shutter Speed: 40

Hack: Flowmotion 2.02

Reasoning: I chose Cinema 24p to shoot at the rate most associated with cinematic productions. I chose my shutter speed to add filmic blur and create the illusion of judder free video. I chose flowmotion 2.02 to aid in both fronts (motion stability while keeping with the film look).

And one more: does g6 have live hdmi out?

OLYMPUS OM 75 - 150mm 1:4 ZUIKO ZOOM TELE + 2x Olympus M. Zuiko Digital ED 9-18mm 1:4-5.6 Panasonic LUMIX G VARIO 45-200mm/F4.0-5.6

Ex. Tele and Digital Zoom x2 used in some footage

Personal-view.com special offers

• Both kits and body, worldwide shipping - http://www.personal-view.com/faqs/gh3-notes/gh3-discount

Amazon US

• GH3 Body - http://www.amazon.com/DMC-GH3KBODY-16-05-Camera-3-Inch-OLED-Body/dp/B009B0WREM

Adorama US

• GH3 Body - http://www.adorama.com/IPCDMCGH3.html

Panasonic Direct US

• GH3 Body - http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/DMC-GH3KBODY

Germany

• http://www.fotobantle.de/Spiegellose-Systeme/Panasonic-MFT-G-Kameras/Panasonic-GH3H-Kit-inkl--14-140mm-Objektiv.html
• http://www.technikdirekt.de/main/en/642460/-/article-panasonic-lumix-dmc-gh3-body.html

UK

• GH3 kit with 12-35mm - http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-panasonic-lumix-dmc-gh3-black-digital-camera-with-12-35mm-lens/p1532811
• GH3 kit with 14-140mm - http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-panasonic-lumix-dmc-gh3-black-digital-camera-with-14-140mm-lens/p1532812
• GH3 body - http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-panasonic-lumix-dmc-gh3-black-digital-camera-body/p1532809

France

• http://digit-photo.com/Appareils_photo_hybrides_numeriques-aFA0090/PANASONIC_Lumix_DMC_GH3_Noir_Boitier_Nu-rPANASONICDMCGH3EGK.html

Australia

• http://www.digidirect.com.au/slr_cameras/panasonic/panasonic_lumix_dmc-gh3_body_-_black

Mission: Learn how to create and avoid GH2 visual hangups.

Setup: Flowmotion 2.02 24H Sony Vegas 12 (Basic Editing) External Recording setup utilizing Booming and Wireless

Concerns (How to cause it) (How to Avoid)

Vignetting:

Banding:

Judder:

ISO Bug (I am well versed on that one)

Not too concerned with shooting flat. Going to be lighting things pretty close to how I want them. No really dark scenes.

Action:

Hand to hand combat, A foot chase, Driving, but will use green screen and Go Pro for that.

I want to power also the zoom to get this ENG-stile of shooting. If possible I want to start and stop recording via the trigger at the zoom handle, but I might skip that, because I might loose the ability to use the mic-port for an external mic. I doubt that both is possible at once... Anyone experiences using a Y-splitter?

As a premixer I thinking of a Rolls MX 54s Audio, or a juicedLink CX231 Audio Mixer. I planing to use a Varavon Screen Loupe EX GH1/GH2... The only thing I can tell at the moment - the hack worked great. I´m using a SanDisk extreme pro 64 GB and started with the "no adverse settings". But with 42 mb/s no constant recording ( at least one hour in AVC 1080/50i) was possible. So I altered the settings. I will use for narrative film making a FSH preset with 42 mb/s and for events a FH preset with 32 mb/s. This works so far... Quality wise I tested my gh2 vs. my old JVC GY HD 200B (1440x1080 50i). I recorded the same motive at the same time and I have to admit the JVC can´t compete against the gh2´s resolution… and that´s the reason I´m doing all that here.

I've been tinkering with my camera set up. I wanted to monitor what I was shooting on a bigger screen, and wanted to use my macbook pro retina as the monitor. I bought a blackmagic intensity shuttle, connected it via HDMI to the shuttle and the shuttle to my mac via thunderbolt.

At first I had no picture - the camera was set to 24p cinema mode at FH.... but, in order to get the camera working through Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 capture function (and the blackmagic media express software) I had to change the settings on the software to 1080i 50 - so it looks like both pieces of software think the camera is spitting out 1080i 50 rather than 1080p 24.

As a result, I have 2 questions:

1 - does using an HDMI monitor change the footage captured on the SD card in the camera from 24p 1080p to 50 1080i? If not, then that's fine, I only want to monitor the footage and can cope with a visual change showing on my Mac. If so, then.... we have an issue.... 2 - is there a hack or option in ptools that will keep it at 24 1080p if it does affect the SD card recorded footage? I'm using Flowmotion v2 at the moment.

@Vitaliy_Kiselev - can you, or any of the geniuses on here help?

Many thanks,

Rob

Bought the GH2 last week and after an weekend filming and shooting photos, i noticed today strange Banding on the LCD and on the viewfinder. Most visible with very fast shutterspeed.

Is this a damaged LCD or damaged sensor? Anyone with the same problem?

Problem is visible with stock 1.1 firmware and also when i hack.

Thanks in advance.

Thank you

Panasonic Lumix GH3 + 45 - 200mm Frame 300% Fast (Speed increased by Sony Vages) and 40% Slow

Shoot at Scenic Hill and Airport Maintenance Area and Sky Deck, Hong Kong

Thanks