I have a GH2 with the following lenses:

Sigma 30mm F1.4 Sigma 18-50 F2.8 Panasonic 14mm and 20mm

I also have a Shneider 18-90 F2 lens which I am having made into a Four Thirds lens

I am looking for a cheap second body that will give me footage that will compliment the hacked GH2

I am unsure of which Panasonic Body with hack will best compliment the GH2

Also is the new G5 and G6 planned for hacks? If so they would be perfect choices?

I am also considering the Eos M with its f2 lens although I am concerned that the h.264 format is being replaced next year and if this will make this camera obsolete or if they will offer the new improved codec/format a firmware upgrade?

If anybody has any thoughts on this I would be grateful to know your opinions

GH3 is still too expensive

Thanks

So my question is: How do I copy the personal information and all settings? I want to transfer identical settings to another camera. Is that possible at all? Can't find anything in the manual or online...

LCD display of my 2 year old GH2 is now dead. LVF works fine.

Camera works otherwise perfectly and even touch-function on LCD works!, but no image on LCD screen.

Does any know about what might be causing this problem?

Nothing obvious has happened to the camera. Last time used it 2 weeks ago in a wedding.

I didn't find any similar situations on the internet yet.

And now I need a new camera as my job depends on it, but a lot of doubts come to me: - buy another GH3 as there's nothing still on hacking it? - a hacked GH2 as I wait for the new upcoming GH5? Have someone any truthful news on thew GH5 or a soon hack for the GH3?

:(

I took a screen grab from premiere so you can see how the waveform flatlines. https://www.dropbox.com/s/6f3ehk1dk3v986c/Audio%20Chopped%20off.jpg

This is a quirk that I may be able to work around by recording a second longer than usual but where it causes trouble is when you span a clip. The video is seamless but I do lose about a second of audio in between each clip which can ruin an interview if for some reason I don't have a second recorder set up.

This is at least on my camera.

Is anyone else having this problem?

Thanks for answers!

So I bring out the GH2 and pop the card back in and I notice there is no longer an indication of how much recording time is left on the card.

In the past, I have recovered photos from a corrupt card. Can I do the same with video footage? Any advice/instructions on how to extract the files would be greatly appreciated.

1- Two Lumix G6 cameras Now.

2- GH3 now

3- Lumix G6 + Better glass

Things to Ponder:

• Numerous shorts, First Feature. Easier is better for me at this point.
• Two G6 cameras will let me shoot scenes a heck of a lot faster.
• I do most of the visual editing, color correction, color grading (I am okay, but far from great.)
• I will be lighting for the look I want
• I will be putting this in a few theaters myself and maybe a couple small festivals.
• I have a pretty good sound guy, so that side is covered.

I am working on bettering my skills between now and October. Every day I am working with footage and studying. Still, I know this will be a challenge. What do you guys think will work best for my needs?

Any suggestions on what to do?

if shooting footage for slow motion do i set this in camera (gh3)

or do i do this in post processing with adobe premiere , time stretch ,frame blending etc

also is better to choose a high frame rate to be able to slow motion down smoother?

if so which one

i dont really get the gh3 slow motion feature ,do i choose 300% faster or 40% slower

for what kind of scenario would either be usefull ,

anytips info would be gratefull and appreciated

Basically, I'm shooting straight 24p with a hack. My footage has come out incredibly well thanks to that. However, can someone please explain to me what the core differences are between settings, and what are the pros/cons with each one?

• 24H / 24L

• FSH / FH

• SH / H

Also, I hear shooting slow motion on a GH2 is best achieved with AVCHD 720, 60i. Again, what are the core differences between those settings? I am so incredibly confused, so you I sincerely thank-you for your patience.

During operation, I am having a lot of trouble focusing, especially during recording. I normally have the camera set on AFC, and Continuous AF turned OFF in the camcorder menu. When there is no HDMI cable connected to the camera, I can push the shutter half way, get a green dot when it is focused and a confirmation beep. The beep and the green dot do not seem to operate when connected to the HDMI cable and the monitor. Aside from the Red recording dot and other info that comes up when you press the shutter half way, there is nothing to confirm a focus lock on. This has resulted in my pushing the shutter button down too far and turning off the recording accidentally. The only way that I can confirm a focus lock on is by touching the screen and tapping the little yellow box that appears, then I touch the word SET at the bottom of the screen. While doing this, the RED recording button disappears, which is disconcerting, but apparently the camera is still recording because the RED dot appears again after the focus reset.

I have tried using focus peaking on the monitor but it is so dim in daylight that it is useless. The monitor seems unappropriate for steadicam work. Anyone know what the new Pilots use for a monitor? I am thinking that the whole setup would work better with the Marshal 5.6" monitor but it is $800.00

Today I was testing with Tiffen Standard Hot Mirror. I will try to post some results in the coming days but two things jumped out at me. Black fabrics were contaminated with or without the hot mirror and as usual were also a bit noisy which is something this camera suffers from. The noise I can deal with in post, especially when I capture a nice accurate profile of it on set. Makes the job in post that much easier.

But I'm curious what people have experienced with IR solutions. In my arsenal, I currently have a Tiffen hot mirror, Tiffen IRND 1.5, 1.8, 2.1 as well as Pancro IRND 1.2 and 1.5. I have only tested with the Tiffen filters. Haven't tried my Pancros yet.

I also need to test more materials under various lighting.

I'd love to hear from people who have done this testing already so I can compare notes.

I've tried with a reformated SD card. fresh Panny Battery, but now when I go into my menu to set RAW + JPG, Only the top three JPG options are available. The RAW option a grayed out.

What can I do?

Maxi

I've been looking all over the web for forums on how to use my cam (which happens to be a GH3, so ... what mostly) AND to do something with it ... and either there are esoteric and pointedly detailed discussions on the technical bits of shooting OR a highly detailed esoteric discussions of say, specific tasks in DV Resolve ... I'm sure at some point I might find interest in this, but it's not helpful now. It's handy to see that say, several here feel the .MOV on the GH3 is great at lower ISO, but the AVCHD better at higher ISO. Practical and handy.

That said, when I get into Premiere Pro and Speedgrade, where I've been totally lost at the settings to actually make the end result meet what my monitor shows ... I'm not finding a lot of help. I've tried (in SG) various settings from "no calibration" to about everything on that long list ... most things chosen in rendering make for an output that is harshly contrasty/saturated and a lot darker ... except for a couple of the gamma/MOV ones that result in a "thin", bright and washed-out final. No one on the SG forum even responds to requests on things like that, and I can't find any info that isn't contradicted by every other article out there.

I'd just love a practical discussion of what settings, practices, and patterns seem to work smoothly and consistently. Not just shooting or just post, but ... when combined ... make for a smooth workflow from planning through delivery. What kind of rendering settings work best for the files created by this camera? What LUT's or protocols or whatever to look for, what to avoid ... clearly, there are some good folks here at doing this stuff.

ANY comments would be so appreciated!

R. Neil Haugen

How to expose for the best DR in an outdoor scene (beach on a sunny day). Will I get the most DR by trying to preserve as much highlights as possible or the opposite or something else? Or it doesn't matter where I expose and DR will always be the same number of stops and anything above or below the DR range will never be recovered?

In an indoor scene with some harsh/hot lights and shadows will I get the most DR by clipping the shadows or the highlights or it doesn't matter (DR will always be whatever the number of stops regardless of exposure)?

Whenever I shoot I see the highlights blown out quicker than the shadows but that's just from what I see. No real scientific evidence.

Thanks!

I do mostly stills, time-lapse, and occasionally some amateur videography at the moment. The second body should therefore be something good wrt stills (they probably all are), and something I could fool around with while the GH3 is primary on time-lapse-assignment, maybe even do a secondary time-lapse sequence (so internal intervalometer would be nice). Video quality should be ok but does not need to be on par with the GH3. The body should also be smaller (and a lot cheaper) than the GH3, since it will be a B-body I want to bring "just in case" in the bag when the GH3 returns, but which will probably often not be used at all. Compatibility with my Metz mecablitz 58 AF-2 for Olympus / Panasonic / Leica is also something I want.

Anyone in a similar situation? Or just with a good suggestion? I am currently leaning towards something Olympus just to get some experience with in-body image stabilisation compared to Panasonic OIS (and to get stabilisation with the manual / adaptor-mounted lenses).

Would this work? Is there a better way? Cheers

Now, two weeks later, exactly the same problem has happened again. I was walking along taking pictures, I went to turn it on again and.. nothing. It didn't get wet or dropped. I've tried a different battery etc.

Any idea what would cause this twice so quickly? I'm travelling with a number of spare batteries and I'm wondering if it's possible that a discharge from the bad battery could blow the power circuity in the camera? Or is it more likely a bad repair job?