i am shooting a friends band tonight, it will be rather dark with rockstar lighting my only aid. i am using my gh2 and zoom h1. i was testing the 2 lenses i think i will use and i found that my canon fd 28mm 2.0 shooting at 1/25 24frames per second takes a brighter shot than my canon fd 50mm 1.8 shot at same settings. total newbie here, so is there something wrong with my 50mm or are these results normal?

This made me wonder what other type of taking-lens would be an option for my anamorphic adapter. As I read in Andrew Reid's anamorphic guide, my Kowa should cover a 35mm lens on a GH2, So my eyes fell on the inexpensive Slrmagic 35mm F 1.7

Has anyone had any experience with adapting an anamorphic onto the Slrmagic lens? Or in general using a 35mm lens for a Kowa-type adapter?

Thanks!

It's sharp, has great colour, almost no veil flare and will do a good auto focus pull if you setup the camera right and practice. I hope this post encourages more people to give this lens a go.

This following video is ALL 14-140 shot on a GH1 in 720 50p with a 1/50 shutter to give just that little extra motion blur effect.

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-400mm-Super-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B00009USW3/

and was wondering if I could adapt it for use on my GH2. I have a Vivitar 400mm FD lens that I use. I also have the Lumix 100-300 lens. I'm thinking maybe this Canon lens would be really sharp for my nature photography/video as the Vivitar isn't that great and the 100-300 is a bit dull after 200mm. I think that Canon 400 I have listed is manual, but I could be wrong.

Harold House

No matter is it vintage or new lens design, is it more or less famous manufacturer or lens type - just every lens model has its "caviar" but also "lemon" copies. Also many lenses get worse after unprofessional interventions and service.

Please describe here your worst lens experience and the kind of problem with that lens. If you tried good copy of somebody else's nightmare lens please inform about that. Whoever can, please upload crops of the images made by your bad lens. Also links to the videos are welcome.

Seeing some of the deals whit it, making a bundel cost 500$ and the lens on its own is costing 370$ so its 130$ for the cam?? ex the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX1X or the GF5.

it the a deal or are the lenses just exp now and will become the new standart really quick and as cheap as the normal 14-42? i was thinking of buying a deal, and sell the cam to keep the lens as its allmost free, i mean you couls sell some of the cams for 400$ new and you got the lens for 100 0r sell the lens for 300 and get a cam for 200$.

this is just me thinking , what do you guys think.

I did three comparisons each with the lenses at f/2.8 and f/5.6. The uncropped shots are resized, but I only wanted to demonstrate the barrel distortion and vignetting with those. There are also 100% crops of each. All shots were done with the wide converter on the 14mm (sorry, forgot label it properly), and with the Tokina at it's widest setting. I used RAW on the GH2 for all shots.

As expected, the Panny combo had worse vignetting and barrel distortion than the Tokina. The GH2 corrects the distortion for the 14mm, but it can't do anything about the wide converter. At F/2.8, the Panny combo was clearly sharper than the Tokina which had some noticeable coma. At F/5.6, the sharpness is about even in the center, but the Tokina slightly beats out the Panny combo at the edges. You can also notice the purple fringing is pretty bad on the Tokina at the edge of that white book.

I'm searching for a relatively fast zoom lens to shoot some pics / video from distance, especially in concerts, which have some dim lights. In my tests an aperture around 3.5 is good, then I'm searching for some old zooms with 2.8 aperture or around it.

I have already managed to grab an Vivitar Series 1 VMC 35-85mm f/2.8 (constant), but some reviews says that this lens is very soft wide open. Then after looking some threads about the subject here in Personal View I've found two other options:

• Tamron SP 35-80mm f/2.8-3.8 (01A model) - @Tesselator praised it in this post (http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/comment/3457#Comment_3457), although the samples that he supplied are from the 27A model;
• Tokina AT-X 35-80mm f/2.8 - the old model, without autofocus.

Do you know if they are much better than the Vivitar? I've saw stunning samples, especially from the Tokina, but mixed reviews from the Tamron. I wonder if you have some previous experience with these lenses, both for video and (if posssible) for photo.

Thanks in advance.

I found some VERY good offers for super8 film cameras like these:

http://www.super8data.com/database/cameras_list/cameras_revue/cameras_revue.htm

http://www.super8camera.com/netsearch.php?sq=canon+518&page=2

http://www.super8data.com/database/cameras_list/cameras_nizo/nizo_156xl.htm

http://super8arena.com/braun-nizo-4080-p-188.html

Unfortunately, I heard from the sellers that they have unchangeable lenses.

As I understood the zoom distance of this lenses can be changed from a button on the camera body, so probably it would be difficult to take off the lens from the cam... One of the sellers told me the lens has electric control of the zoom and the aperture is changed also from the camera.

I don't know anything about this, but these zoom lenses are pretty fast and VERY cheap (Revue Reflex Zoom f: 1.7 \ F: 8-40 mm and Canon 9.5 - 47.5mm f/1.8 and especially Schneider Macro-Variogon 1,4 / 7 - 80 mm from the Brown cameras) .

I think they could be useful for GH2/3 with a ETC mode, so I wondered if someone already achieved some adaptation of this lens type to micro 4/3?

Thank you in advance.

Currently looking at a LOMO 16mm and am pretty set on it but I'd like to pick your brain for anything else.

Aaaaaand, GO!

thanks, Clyde

What's the best lens with Autofocus for me?

Thank you for reading. :)

or maybe this for FCX users? http://colorbyjorg.wordpress.com/plugins/

IF the official GH3 released has moire/aliasing, would the filters be a possible solution?

i have a 50mm f1.8 and a 135mm 3.5

i am looking to buy a wider angle lens but i am caught between canon lenses and vivitar lenses for the fd mount. i am looking to get a fast (f2.0 or lower) 24 or 28mm lens, and the vivitar ones are much much much more affordable than their canon counterpart.

my question is this. how much of a difference is there between the canon fd and vivitar fd lenses? is the difference in price worth it to go for the canon? how does the vivitar lens hold up on its own?

Looks like they offer conversion on most of the popular sets here from Tokina 11-16 to Contax To Zeiss Canon etc

http://www.glcinemod.com/english.html

But now we tried the equally fantastic Pana 12-35 and same DP found the same Issue with this lens as well. Is this something well known? I have not heard it from other sources.

Is there any workaround that someone knows about or other zoom that can be used.

Now with an even better Gh3 Coming up and our AF101 still performing well it is à shame not to be able to find good tools. Prime - wise the situation is fantastic ... But Video zoom?

Now THE slow 14-140 does not behöver in this way. But focus by wire is not really good.

THE new Pana zooma just must work... But How can one prevent the aperture to change while zooming?

Leif

Edit: I'll be using a dslr rig also.

OK there is the tele mode but some report that as noisy etc.

A 1.4x TC would be nice, but none exist,

So what about removing the optics from a TC and rehousing them in a GH2 Macro extension tube? The tubes fetch <$10 on ebay and an old Hoya 1.4x TC is reported as good and cheap

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